Hi everyone, as we’re nearing the end of 2023 (still 2023 where I’m at), I would like to share a longish report of my Japan trip. It was my first time in Asia and taking a trip this long. I was scared and inundated with information (I’ve been exposedto Japanese culture for years through anime/manga/LN and pure intrerest for the country), so I opted for a group tour from an agency in my country. The group consisted of 25 people of different ages and I was by myself (does it count as a solo trip? 😅). While it was a tour, there were plenty of times where I ventured out solo and I enjoyed that flexibility.
**Day 1 – Landing in NRT -> shinkansen to Osaka.**
Arrival at NRT at 9:30am after a 15h flight with transit in Istanbul. Went through immigration and customs very efficiently and then claimed our JR Pass, which was purchased before the price increase. Because at NRT they only had 1 working machine to print out the passes, our guide handled them while the rest of us took time to relax and get essentials sorted out – currency exchange, SIM card, snacks etc.
From there, we took the Narita express to Shinagawa station. Here is where we got our first taste of Japanese punctuality; half of the group did not get out of the train in time, so we backtracked from Shinjuku station to Shinagawa to meet up with the rest to take the shinkansen. After a roughly 2h journey via shinkansen we arrived in Osaka. Got at the hotel, checked in, took a 1h break to shower and went out to explore Dotonbori.
The whole area was bustling and extremely busy. Dinner was mainly sampling food from the stalls, such as takoyaki, okonomiyaki, tempura and melon pan.
After dinner, wandered around the area and we passed by what probably was a redlight district of sorts. Ended the day early at 10PM, but not without me finally finding a metro station to buy an ICOCA card on the way back to the hotel (did not find it at Shin-Osaka station, just topup machines).
**Day 2 – Exploring Osaka**
In hindsight this day was packed, so I am surprised we managed to do it with such a big group.
Left hotel at 9.30am after breakfast (nothing special, so in the following days I frequented conbinis) bound for Osaka castle. Castle grounds are huge and the surrounding park was very nice, with people holding picnics. We entered the interior of the castle which was a museum. Most people say to skip it, but I think it was rather fine considering the price. And the view from the top floor was pretty good. Still, the castle from the outside is the highlight.
Took a short coffee break at the nearby The Landmark Square before hopping on the metro to Museum of Housing and Living. Museum itself was nothing mesmerizing and can definitely be skipped, although the scavenger hunt to find animals hidden in the museum was a fun way to explore.
Afterwards, we hit the nearby Tenjinbashi to sample some more food, such as sushi, ichigo daifuku, onigiri and more.
Next stop was Shitteno-ji. We arrived a just a few minutes after it was closed, but the grounds are expansive and free, so it did not feel like we missed out not going inside, as you can make out the pagoda and main hall from outside.
Getting our fill of Japanese architecture for the day, we went to Umeda Sky Building which was a short metro ride. Tickets were bought at the reception with virtually no waiting time. The view from 140m up was incredible. Tip: DO NOT wear white if you wanna take pictures, as the neon lights reflect off of them thus turning you into a flashlight.
Not having enough of city views from above, we then took a taxi (4 people per taxi) to Tempozan Ferris Wheel. It was nice and all, but underwhelming once you experience Umeda.
By that time we needed to have dinner so we went to Shinsekai. The Tsutenkaku tower was being renovated so the lights were out and most of the shops were closed, but we did find a restaurant which accomodated the group in what was a traditional tatami room with tables meant for grilling. The staff messed up the order though everything was ordered via tablets. In the end, some tables were overcharged and when confronted, the staff did not accept the mistake and told them off. It did leave a bad aftertaste, but the group decided to not give it too much thought. A few peope and I decided to walk back to the hotel (40 minutes) wanting to burn some of the calories.
**Day 3 – Hiroshima & Miyajima daytrip**
First rainy day and one of the few throughout the trip. Took the shinkansen and after arriving in Hiroshima got taxi rides to the Peace Museum. The whole experience was harrowing and I could not help but tear up at reading the stories of the victims. Would recommend, but definitely not for the light hearted. After going through the museum, we visited the peace park and the Atomic Dome and then were bound for Miyajima. For lunch I ate my ekiben which I did not consume during the shinkansen ride.
Got at Miyajima around 17:30, so Itsukushima shrine was closed, but I loved experiencing it all lit-up and with very few people around. Left of the shrine entrance were a flight of stairs which brought us to the Toyokuni Shrine Pagoda and the adjacent Hokokujinja Senjokaku Pavilion. Surprisingly I was not that hungry, so I got an oyster-filled fried dough (do not know the exact name) and washed it down with hot tea from a vending machine.
We took the ferry back at 19:30, but then there was a significant train delay, which resulted in us getting to Osaka at 23:30. Grabbed dinner at the McDonald’s right at our hotel before ending the night.
**Day 4 – Shinkansen to Kyoto. Higashiyama area.**
When they say do not bring big luggage to Japan, they mean it. It was an exercise in and of itself getting to Kyoto with our luggage and group size. One of us forgot their stuff at the platform, so they took a trip back to get them, and we waited in solidarity. Another fascinating part of Japan; left behind luggage was safely retrieved and we got to Kyoto around midday.
As check-in was not possible, we simply left our luggage at the hotel and went straight to Kiyomizu-dera. The temple is fascinating although extremely popular and filled to the brim with tourists. Afterwards, we explored Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka (jam-packed too) and got to Yasaka pagoda for the iconic Kyoto pic. Grabbed a something to eat and drink at the Ninenzaka Starbucks and went to the hotel to check in.
For dinner we ate at a local eatery near the hotel, and then went to explore Kyoto station. On the way there, we came across Higashi Honganji temple, or rather its gates, which were nothing short of spectacular. Kyoto station itself was awesome, with views of nearby Kyoto tower, as well as various light shows inside the station. Would have liked to sample some ramen from the station, but had no space left.
**Day 5 – Arashiyama area**
Early morning start in order to catch the bamboo forest without too many people around, which I can say we succeeded at. I have to say that it’s a bit underwhelming due to its small size. Waiting for the opening time of Tenryu-ji next door, I went up the Kameyama Park and was greeted with very nice foliage (it still was not at its peak however).
Entered Tenryu-ji at approximately 8:30 am. The temple is actually considered as the head of Kyoto’s 5 zen temples, and the garden is gorgeous. For it being held in such high regard, it was not that touristy.
Afterwards it was time to explore more of Arashiyama, so we hit up Kimono forest and then took a boat ride in Katsura river, where we sampled some fresh octopus at a boat-vendor which approached us.
Disembarking, we crossed Togetsukyo bridge to Arashiyama Monkey Park. IT WAS A HIKE, however the view of the city at the top was rewarding. Felt sorry for the monkeys as they often seemed distressed to me.
Settled to eat street food at some stalls at the exit of the monkey park and then took a bus ride to Kinkaku-ji.
The golden pavilion was even prettier in person, and the surrounding temple grounds were as peaceful as they could be with many tourists around.
Time had flown by and it was already afternoon, so we went back to the hotel. The days were actually warm with temps nearing 28°C, so I had a few clothes in need of washing and used the time until dinner to do laundry at a nearby laundromat.
For dinner, we went out in the hunt for some Kobe beef at Nishiki market, having no idea that most places either needed reservations or closed at 22:00, leaving us with probably less than 30 minutes time to eat. We decided against it, and then the group broke up with some finding a restaurant close by, and me going to Ichiran. I had made it a mission to grab ramen there, and the experience of ordering without knowing a lick of Japanese was appealing. Ramen was great, even though locals will advise against it.
**Day 6 – Central Kyoto and afternoon trip to Nara.**
Got up early and was on the hunt for a good currency exchange as my yen was running out. On the way to what google maps labeled as the nearest exchange, I came across 3 temples, Rokkakudo temple, Komyoji temple and its neighbor on the opposite side of the alley which I though were fancy houses 💀. Only got to glimpse through the gate and snag some pics, because I was trying to meet up with the rest of the group at Nijo castle after exchanging money.
Nijo cahstle grounds were expansive and the gardens lush. No photos allowed inside the castle building, which allowed me to enjoy it more. The nightingale sounds from the flooring were pleasant to hear.
Next stop was Kyoto Imperial Palace to which we walked. Right before the main entrance, there were a couple of small shrines that were worth a 5 minute detour. One cannot enter inside the imperial palace building, but one can go through the site. To me, it was even more impressive than Nijo castle.
Next stop was the long-awaited Fushimi Inari. Since it was already well past midday, I knew that the place would be packed. And it was. But as long as you hike up even a little through the torii gates, it starts to become empty and perfect for those gram photos.
Clock was hitting almost 16:00, so we hurried at took the train to Nara. Arriving rather late in the afternoon, we only managed to go to the park and feed the deer before returning to Kyoto. Would have loved to spend a whole day in Nara, but this was the most we could make out of it, since tomorrow we were Tokyo-bound.
**Day 7 – Shinkansen to Tokyo. Akihabara and Shinjuku.**
First half of the day was riding the shinkansen. We probably got at Kyoto station at around 10:00am and after getting some essentials (ekiben) we boarded the shinkansen. Arrived in Tokyo around 13:30 and went straight to the hotel, where we managed to checkin a bit earlier. Travel days are tough with large groups so after settling in, we went out to explore Akihabara at about 17:00.
Basically we roamed and hit up the famous shops such as Animate, Mandarake and Donki. For dinner I had soup followed by a big bowl of rice, cheese and beef. Afterwards, it was claw machine time, which I restrained myself after spending 1000 yen and not getting results.
The night was still young so we went to Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku, and ate some grilled meat and grabbed beer, even though our bellies were full at that point. Then we went to a very touristy bar (HUB) in Kabuki-cho where we ate and drank some more. Before taking a taxi back to the hotel, we went around Kabuki-cho to see Godzilla and finally called it a day.
**Day 8 – Tsukiji, Ginza, Hamarikyu Gardens, Harajuku and evening in Shibuya.**
Day began catching a ceremony at Tsukiji temple, whose exterior was very different from the temples I had seen so far. Then we went to the fish market and sampled fresh seafood. It was a bit tough navigating the market with an umbrella in the rain, but it was doable.
Next destination was Ginza, where we only browsed as the prices were crazy expensive. The area is very high-end and has a fancy feel to it. We also came across the kabuki theater which is located there.
Next destination was Hamarikyu Gardens, and by this point the group had divided in 2, the youngsters and the 50+ y/o. The guide accompanied the elders, while we went to the garden via the magic powers of google maps. The gardens were a marvel and there are some shrines and old teahouses inside, which added more to the serenity.
By this time, we were hungry and I went solo in search of lunch, while the rest of my group wanted to eat at Domino’s. After having some tasty gyudon, I hit up Harajuku and the Tokyu Plaza, with its iconic mirror entrance.
Afterwards, I thought to visit Meiji Jingu, but arrived there at 16:30 by which it was closed, even though google maps said it closed at 17:00. Then it was time to explore Shibuya. I had made it a point to visit Hachiko and cross the Shibuya scramble plenty of times, and I did. Then I visited Shibuya’s Donki (did not have enough at Akihabara) to do some souvenir shopping. I ended up spending around 35000 yen tax excluded. The rest of the group hit me up saying they were at HUB in Shibuya, so I joined them for a bit and we all went back to the hotel.
**Day 9 – Asakusa, Skytree and evening in Shibuya (again).**
The day began at Senso-ji. We did not arrive there super early, so Nakamise-dori was busy and full of people, as was the temple itself. Marvelous to gander, it was here that I tried omikuji for the first time and got very good fortune. Inside the temple grounds was a food stall and I opted for okonomiyaki which was delicious. After some more sightseeing of the grounds, we went to Tokyo Skytree. On the way, you could get great views of Skytree alongside Asahi beer HQ with its poo ‘statue’.
Skytree was impressive up close, but I did not pay to go up the observatory and instead explored the mall where Skytree is located. Once the rest of the group descended, we went bank to Asakusa where we hopped on a ferry ride along the Sumida river, going under multiple iconic bridges and taking in the sights.
Evening was spent bar-hopping in Shibuya and kaiten sushi. It’s all a blur.
**Day 10 – Day trip to Fujiyoshida, Oshino Hakkai and Gotemba Premium Outlet. Evening in Yokohama.**
This day mainly consisted of a booked tour to see mount Fuji. First stop was Fujiyoshida, specifically Arakuri Sengen Shrine and Chureito pagoda. During our 1h stay there, Fuji-san was shy, hiding behind clouds. The whole area had reached peak foliage, and we managed to get some great shots.
Next was Oshino Hakkai, where we got to see Fuji-san in all its glory. Here at the village we sampled corn dog and various sweet from the stalls and shops. The tour only showed us 3 of the ponds in the area, which is fine as you get the idea of what it’s about. Then lunch and afternoon was spend at Gotemba Premium Outlet, where we browsed and bought and ate and snapped some more pics of Fuji-san.
We arrived in Shinjuku at 17:30, and immediately took the train to Yokohama chinatown. One particular shop with spiritualism theme caught our attention so we spent more time browsing than we should have. Probably due to the hour, Chinatown was not as lively. We had dinner at a Chineae restaurant, where we had dumplings and sticky lemon chicken and washed it down with boba from a shop right outside.
We thought that Minato Mirai was gonna be close, but a quick check on google maps told us to get there by taking the metro, and so we did. Minato Mirai area was dazzling due to the lights and them reflecting off the harbour. I would’ve liked to view the Gundam, but it was a ways away and closed, so we skipped it. Train back to Tokyo and then hotel.
**Day 11 – Meiji Jingu, Shibuya Parco, Shibuya Sky, Teamlab Planets.**
For the last full day our guide had tickets reserved for Shibuya Sky and Teamlab, and the rest was free to wander. I got up at 8:00 and made my way to Meiji Jingu after a failed first attempt. My route directed me to the entrance from Yoyogi Pony park and I was amazed at how there was this huge park in the middle of the city. There were birds all around. The shrine itself was spectacular. Being there early in the morning meant few people and tranquility. I bought two protective charms as souvenirs and hanged an ema on its designated place under a big tree, before making my way to the exit.
Next destination was Pokemon Center inside Shibuya Parco, which opened at 11:00 sharp. The Pokemon center and Nintendo store were packed in a matter of minutes. Luckily I managed to get crowd-free photos of Mewtwo. Then I went to the open area at the top of the shopping center and made my way down following the wooden path and stairs in the exterior. On the basement there was a huge food court, but I was nor hungry so I decided to come back after Shibuya Sky.
At that point my phone was almost out of battery, so I bought a powerbank at Bic Camera and then joined the group at Shibuya Sky. It was sunny and the views from up top were amazing. Mount Fuji was also visible. Yoyogi park and Meiji Jingu garden were even more impressive from up top, contrasting the surrounding concrete. After taking pictures and whatnot, we had a break to refresh at the bar inside the building.
Afterwards, I went back to Akihabara to shop at Super Potato because a friend of mine wanted a retro console. When confronted with the steep prices, he decided not to.
Next stop was Teamlabs, but it was still a good 2h until then, so I went back to the hotel to make my luggage, since tomorrow we had an early flight. Late afternoon was spent at Teamlabs. The experience is really one of a kind, albeit short. One thing I noticed is that the moss garden ovoids exhibition was not available. We left the museum at almost closing time and decided to have one last drink near our hotel area.
**Day 12 – Train to Narita airport and departure.**
Our flight back was at 10:30, which meant an early morning wake up for us. We took the metro from our hotel to the airport and it cost us a little more than 1000 yen. I still had some credit left in my ICOCA, so I spent it at a conbini. Eager to get rid of coins and get some more souvenirs, I hit the duty-free shops and was right on time for departure. Sayonara Japan!
**General tips and/or insights:**
* Getting and IC card is essential. Due to our itinerary starting in Osaka I got ICOCA, but if you start in Tokyo and want to get a physical IC card, go to Tokyo Station and get a Toica (Suica and Passmo are not sold due to microchip shortage). All IC cards are equivalent and can be used in the whole country. For iPhone users there is option to add Suica/Passmo on their phone. I have purposely left out Welcome Suica and Passmo Passport as they expire within 28 days while the standard IC cards have a validity of 10 years, which you can use on any subsequent Japan trips.
* On travel days, try to get a head start if possible to make up for time spent in mode of transportation. Nonetheless, riding Japanese trains is an experience in and of itself.
* With the price increase for JR pass, it might make more sense for you to check out regional passes or go without passes.
* In Kyoto you tap out of the buses, while in Tokyo you tap in.
* People traffic is left-sided in all places we went expect Osaka; there it’s right-sided.
* If you are a stamp nerd, get yourself a notebook to get stamps at attractions, temples and shrines.
* Make peace with yourself that you will not get to see all attractions you have seen on Tiktok/Instagram. The only way to do so is if you move to Japan.
**What I would’ve liked to have done**
* More time in Nara, maybe a whole day.
* Skipped Gotomba Outlet for more time in Yokohama (being in a tour this was impossible but still :P)
Thank you for reading all the way to the end. This was my experience in Japan and I will most likely visit again in the future. Hope it helps you somehow in planning your itinerary.
Wishing you all a very happy new year!
by wishcrushingcinema
