###Part 2
This is the second week of my Japan trip in Okinawa and Kansai. For week 1 spent in Tokyo please go [HERE](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/1bhyiio/two_weeks_march_trip_report_week_1_tokyo/)
As A reminder, I’m a solo traveler in my forties with a wonky right leg so stairs and inclines are a challenge for me.
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###Day 8
In summery the hotel I was supposed to be staying at had closed its reception after 10 pm so I stayed at the Naha Tokyu REI instead. 10,200 yen for the night. I think the room was meant for two since it was a double but that’s all they had at the time.
Early morning, at around 7 am. I checked out and asked management to contact my hotel. The guy got very defensive on the phone saying they never got a late check-in request let alone responded to it, Also **NO** I can’t check-in right now, hours are 15:00 to 22:00, I can only check in then. Since I was scheduled for a day tour I left my backpack and coat in REI and decided to deal with the hotel afterwards.
I just want to note that leaving my coat behind was such a mistake. Temps averaged 17c but a VERY windy one, north wind at that so… yeah I was practically freezing. Too late to go back though as the tour started at 8 am.
I had booked the **hip hop bus tour course A** for $50. We started with an hour at the [**Nago Pineapple Park**](https://i.imgur.com/POj1DfD.jpg) A bit cheesy but it was just one hour. Also the smell there is amazing, sweet pineapple plus fresh woodland. I admit though, that stupid pineapple song got stuck in my head and haunted my nightmares for a few days.
This was followed by a quick stop at **Kouri Island** where we could actually see the special sand on the beach. The sand in this island is star shaped, not containing starfish, the sand itself is shaped like stars. Something to do with the currents but I didn’t catch it. Just enjoyed the beach and salty sea air.
**Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium** was the main stop. We arrived just in time for the dolphin show which was awesome. When I went to see the sea turtles they were feeding them earlier than scheduled so I got to see them race to grab the dead sardines. Didn’t know they were omnivores but it was so cool seeing them swim at top speed like that. Tried the pineapple soft serve here and it was just so good.
After that we stopped at **Okashigoten** Onna Branch which is supposedly a famous souvenir shop. I think they’re the ones producing those taro tarts that is a famous Okinawan souvenir because one window overlooked a factory line for them. Unfortunately it was a busy day and the queue was too long so we were behind schedule and it took time away from the next stop.
**Cape Manzamo** [totally looks like an elephant’s trunk](https://i.imgur.com/HTXUdOg.mp4). This turned out to be the highlight of the tour. The cape at sunset was just beautiful and [the sounds of the waves crashing relaxing](https://i.imgur.com/3p384Tn.mp4)
The tour ended at around 7pm and we waved goodbye to our lovely and very diligent tour guide. Heading back to the **Hotel Kohala** where I was SUPPOSED TO BE STAYING I psyched myself up to Karen! Totally going to Karen on them!
… Yeah, they won. The English speaker was an elderly lady who was so apologetic about the whole thing and genuinely surprised about the late check-in request that I dropped it. There was some communication problem and my request clearly fell through the gaps. I expected to have to pay for both nights but they only charged me for one at the early booking rates (6000 yen) so I really can’t be too mad. Plus the Room was REALLY nice and even had a washing machine.
Before ending the day I stopped by **El Patio** which is the restaurant next door. Mostly because they advertised pizza but that turned out to be a mistake as the “small” arrived in a tea saucer… tiny and practically dough it was so soft. However I noticed the other dishes that passed me by looked good so I took a chance and order a salad as well. This made up for the pizza it was so good. I learned later that pasta and Spanish omelet was their specialty but I was too full for more and left energized.
Took a stroll down **Kokusai-Dori** but it felt too touristy. Also most of the items were the same I saw in the souvenir shops during the tour so just enjoyed the vibe before turning in for the night.
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###Day 9 (Saturday)
Woke up early so checked out and was off to see **Shuri Castle**
Two things. One, [castles](https://i.imgur.com/xA3JIFs.jpg) are usually built on higher grounds for defense purposes. The whole thing was uphill and stairs, stairs, STAIRS!!! Not the place for someone with a wonky right hip and busted knee.
Thing the second, the castle is under long term renovations. I legit climbed a hill just to see a large board with a digital painting of a castle… The gardens were beautiful and I ate some soft serve to soften the blow. Only later did I realize that was my breakfast lol. If you can climb to the top however the view is amazing. You can see all the way to the shore line from up there.
On the way to the station I found a retro vending machine that sold real Ramune. It tasted like medicine… from the 80s… that expired 40 years back! There weren’t any trashcans around so I kept drinking it too, ugh.
Next stop was **Makishi Public Market**. It was fun and had some unique stores, I was looking for a specific restaurant in the area though for lunch but never found it. Decided to just go into this little place run by an elderly couple (at least in their 80s) and have one of the [set meals](https://i.imgur.com/M9JRZjJ.jpg) for only 850 yen. My order number was 10 so I was memorizing it in Japanese “Juu, ten in Japanese is Juu. Wait for Juu to be called” when an elderly voice called “numb-ah Ten-eh. Ourda numbe-ah Ten-eh!”. I was so touched by the effort.
Belly full I had a look around the shops. Actually found a branch of 2FR in the area. I can totally see people wearing a shirt saying “no sexual service” in Shibuya but where else are you going to wear that? Visited a local mall then the Naha Museum before taking a stroll down the main shopping street in Naha, Kokusai Dori, to get to the hotel and collect my bags before heading to the airport.
**Jetstar from Naha to Kansai international in Osaka** $75. This time I was given a window seat and notice something odd as the plane got ready to take off. As I looked through the window all the railway staff stopped what they were doing and were bowing as the plane moved, they didn’t left their heads until takeoff!!! Flight itself was comfortable and uneventful.
Plane landed In terminal 2 and from there I boarded the [Haruka](https://i.imgur.com/4oUXKCo.jpg) aka the Hello Kitty themed train to Kyoto for an ultra-smooth and quiet ride. Temperature was 2c when I arrived.
**Tip** JR has a special offer for foreign visitors. If you purchase an open one way e-ticket on the Haruka it’ll cost 2200 yen for a reserved seat. Which is almost half price compared to buying it on site. E-tickets are valid for 3 months from purchase and you can redeem it any time in the JR counter. They also sell the ICOCA card at the same counter so got one since it’s valid for 10 years. Also it was a special event one with an astroboy + Sakura design on it so I just had to. Checked into my hotel just past 11:30 so called it a night.
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###Day 10 (Sunday)
**Hotel Onyado Nono Kyoto Shichijo Natural Hot Spring:** $100 per night. This was easily the best hotel. Lovely décor that’s modeled after a classic ryokan, you have to take your shoes off as you walk in because the floor is tatami, they are part of the Dormy Inn chain so a ton of amenities including three onsens per gender. The room itself was spacious with a unique décor including a wooden panel instead of curtains that looks like a rice paper Japanese door.
Because this kind of window lets in the light I was up around 6am so decided to try the buffet breakfast. Take about fancy! So many little dishes which again are supposed to be styled after a classic ryokan meal. Since it was still early I did the laundry and relaxed in the message chairs they provide in the relaxation lobby.
First stop of the day was Kameoka to board the [**Sagano Romantic Train**](https://i.imgur.com/zyWQnpn.jpg). I did the route in reverse starting at Torokko Kameoka Sta. and ending at the Torokko Arashiyama Sta. right next to the [**Bamboo groove**](https://i.imgur.com/OzcfixQ.mp4). Ride was great and we saw a few people taking the raft down the river as well. I think it would be nicer once the trees are in bloom but it was fun and the view amazing.
Aside from the grove I did visit quite a few shrines and temples in the area. A notable one was **Mikami Shrine** because it’s dedicated to hair. Just hair, if you want long shiny hair or you’re a hair dresser this is where you ask for it. They even sell charms in the shape of little combs with a spell written on it, super cute!
While the grove was really crowded, it was the weekend after all, the garden area was huge and rather empty so I took a little walk there. [Found a few Plum trees still in bloom](https://i.imgur.com/15bP9av.jpg), the garden path lead to the river where you can rent a rowing boat. From there the path lead to the Togetsukyo Bridge. However that area was full of delicious smells carried by the wind from the path up ahead. I decided it was close enough to lunch time and followed it to the main street. Little shops and street food all around, it was super charming. I did cave and get a strawberry Daifuku (that practically bursts in your mouth it was so fresh) but otherwise resist temptations until I got to **Arashiyama Rilakkuma Tea House**
I did feel some dismay to discover the café was on the second floor… of a rather steep staircase… but I wanted to try it so badly that I decided to risk it. Once Up I made the reservations through the kiosk and took a chair to get my breath back. My hip was just not happy with today’s activities and launched a protest. When the waitress came I thought it was to shoo me away, after all my ticket said it’ll be at least an hour and a half before my turn so no need for me to clog their tiny entry way. I got up to go but it turned out there was a cancellation so since I was here would I be interested in jumping the line?
This café was beyond cute, I got the [curry with soda](https://i.imgur.com/5shQXdc.jpg) and they were nice enough to remove the ham garnish when I showed them my card. Ended the meal with [A seasonal strawberry Parfait and some coffee](https://i.imgur.com/GWQpdsD.jpg) Total bill for the meal was 4000 yen. When I left the line was so long that it stretched down the staircase to the shop on the first floor.
After roaming around the street some more I headed to the Randen station to try the tram. One transfer later I reached [the Golden Temple](https://i.imgur.com/Tf74tJT.jpg) aka **Kinkaku-ji**. The temple was impressive and very photogenic. The garden was lovely and set up in a random location was a statue with a stone bowl, apparently if you manage to throw a coin (5 yen) into the bowl your wish will come true, as you can imagine the group I was with took this as a challenge and the coins rained. Only two managed to get it into the bowl. Mine hit the statue right between the eyes so… um… yeah wasn’t me, it was some other guy. Totally not me.
Anyway while the temple had the usual charms and Omikuji I also found something rather unique. Prayer candles, with the actual prayer printed on them! I was surprised there was one for “cancer gets better” but because there was a young couple there watching I got embarrassed and picked the “wish fulfillment” candle instead.
**P.S.** the Kyoto bus system is rather confusing and they’re never on time. Just keep this in mind if you’re coming from another region, the bus system in Kyoto is VERY different.
Ended my day with my first Onsen experience. It was just so awkward at first but I quickly got comfortable, I think because the majority were older women that were just happy to chat and gossip put me at ease. Do yourself a favor and book a place with an onsen at the end of your trip, it’ll melt away all the day’s exhaustion.
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###Day 11
Decided to sleep in today, probably why the government decided to announce an emergency drill at 9:00am! You’d think World War III was starting!
Wide awake I decided to visit **Kiyomizu-dera**, it’s quite a walk from the bus station to the temple and the whole street is just full of shops and street food. I found a lovely little kimono & Obi for my 2 year old niece as well as a snoopy Chocolate store that sold fancy ones as a souvenir for my family. There was a Ghibli shop here as well however I noticed the prices were rather high compared to the ones in Tokyo.
After a while I finally got to the temple and it was such a sight, the plum trees at the entrance were still in bloom so they framed the gates. [It was beautiful](https://i.imgur.com/wHVwu07.jpg) and so many people renting kimonos took it as the perfect photo location. [Inside the temple](https://i.imgur.com/jLnGX4d.jpg) people were more spread out though and you have to take off your shoes for the inner parts. Found another prayer candle so lit one up and paid my respects.
One of the more famous parts of the temple is [the three water fountains](https://i.imgur.com/F8Mrkpr.jpg) Drinking from them grants you (from right to left) Success in studies, good luck in love, longevity. You should only drink from one though because drinking from all three is considered greedy. Also there is a rather long queue so you’ll mostly get the chance to drink from the first one available.
After the temple I walked down a random street to find [Hōkan-ji Temple](https://i.imgur.com/l59Rf82.jpg), My sister in law wanted a perfume from a shop near it called “my only fragrance” which is very popular on social it seems. Once I found it I liked quite a few of the perfumes so bought a bunch of different ones for my relatives, totally worth a visit.
After that **Ninenzaka**, Only realized I was there because a few older ladies dressed in Kimonos were filming themselves going down the stairs super slow with the one filming saying “come on, lucky, we are lucky!” By the way there is a belief that if you fall in Ninenzaka then you’ll die in three years so, don’t fall!
Grabbed a Pie from the apple pie lab there (amazing) and a sakura frapp from the special starbucks… stairs, super narrow and steep stairs… [view is nice](https://i.imgur.com/LKBBROL.jpg) and the seating area very photogenic, finding a seat might take a while though as it’s always crowded.
Refreshed and trying really hard NOT to fall in this location I had fun roaming around and came across some interesting shops and shrines. Most notable was [Yasaka Kōshin-dō Temple](https://i.imgur.com/g7c1oZJ.jpg), those colorful ball thingies are all prayers, just so cute.
I wanted to burn off those nibbles and snacks so decided to walk the 30 minutes to the hotel where I off loaded my stuff. Looking at the time I decided I could still get in one more location so headed to **Seimei Shrine**. This place really looks like [it honors a sorcerer!](https://i.imgur.com/katqeJw.jpg) Anyway went in, paid my respects and asked a dead wizard to use his magic to ward of death.
Sadly the bus was really late (no surprise in Kyoto) so I couldn’t visit Niji castle today. However I did find [The one Sakura tree blooming in Kyoto](https://i.imgur.com/iS4ymaB.jpg) and just in case someone asks if this is a plum tree behold [Proof](https://i.imgur.com/w0JPxlv.jpg) of its cherry blossemness!
Walking a bit further I came across CoCo Ichibanya and decided to give it a try. Honestly… I didn’t like it. Maybe I got spoiled since I was mostly eating in random local restaurants so far but the vegetarian curry was empty of… well everything and they just load you up on rice. I did order some sides but even that felt like fast food quality.
Anyway I’m glad I got to try it at least once. For those that read part one, you’ll remember I commented about seeing a bag but since it was a luxury brand wanted to think about it before committing… well, I thought about it. Spent the rest of the day visiting each and every single branch of Samantha Thevega in Kyoto. Sold out! Turns out I saw it on release day and since then they were selling like hotcakes.
A quick dip in the Onsen later decided to call it a night early in preparations for tomorrow.
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###Day 12
My day in Universal Studios Japan, USJ for short. I would like to note that I got the daypass that included a Nintendo world entry then decided to spurge on a 7 ride express pass for a grand total of $235.
Anyway so that’s the only day it [rained in Kansai](https://i.imgur.com/6vUpT7m.jpg). Actually no, it poured. The water was coming down in sheets! All the outdoor rides were closed causing people to clog up the indoor rides and restaurants.
I was taking shelter in a random location when I notice a queue forming in front and behind me. Well, whatever it is I guess I’m part of it now. Turned out to be the line for the Mario and Luigi hat café so I got [A strawberry cake & hot chocolate](https://i.imgur.com/X7U2jch.jpg). I want to note that the staff in universal are just so [upbeat and friendly](https://i.imgur.com/Z5gYaWf.mp4) I was taking photos of the cake assembly when the staff started posing and acting so cute.
With most of the rides closed I decided to head to the Harry potter section, at least it had an indoor ride. At this point the down pour was [at its worst](https://i.imgur.com/kKL94pL.mp4), just listen to the audio.
Here is where I think a mistake happened, because of the downpour I don’t think the staff heard me when I said I had an express pass and was herded along to the normal lane. By the time I realized it however I was already in the queue and no way to get out. I figured it would be ok, how long could it possib- 2 hours. Started at exactly 10am and was inside Hogwarts at 12. Two hours in the pouring rain in only a rain coat and no umbrella, my joints were so stiff I was about ready to give up on the park and just go home.
Thankfully indoors in japan they always blast the heat so I got on the forbidden journey ride twice and loitered in the gift shop until I was feeling human again. By the way the Forbidden Journey is easily the best ride I was on. 11/10!
The weather had improved by then and the outdoor ride started up again around 1pm so next was the flight of the hippogriff. This was the only ride wasn’t allowed on being plus size (dress size 18) but they were nice about the whole thing and gave me an express pass coupon for any of the other 7 rides on the pass. Decided to drink my sorrows away with a mug of [butter beer](https://i.imgur.com/TdJxxbT.jpg). This tasted different compared to the one in the Tokyo tour, for one thing it was so hot steam was rising from the mug!
At 1:30 it was almost time for my [Nintendo world entry](https://i.imgur.com/6AZUtgD.jpg). I have to say, the amount of detail here is mind blowing, and that’s before you take a closer look at the little ones hidden throughout the area. [It’s something you just have to see for yourself to appreciate](https://i.imgur.com/WrSw6OK.jpg), very crowded though. There were lines for every bracelet activities in the area, some longer than the ones for the rides and this is not an exaggeration.
Anyway first up was the Mario Kart ride, wait time was showing at 150 minutes so thank god for the express pass. I did feel like I missed out though because the queue is full of little displays and things to keep people occupied during the wait. The ride itself was really fun and interactive.
After that was the Yoshi ride, nice and relaxed but rather short. At this point the rain stopped and the park was fully operational.
I wanted to try the toad café but was told the wait time was 75 minutes so grabbed a bun & drink from the Yoshi shack instead. Once I had my fill of Nintendo world I left to see a MASSIVE line formed at the door, there was a queue now just to be checked for entry.
Roaming the park I got on a few different rides, most notable was the flying dinosaur because I forgot my phone in the locker and came looking for it about an hour later. Had to fill up, no joke, three forms to get it back.
The only ride where I was stopped to try the testing chair was Hollywood dream but I passed so woohoo, also Eek! Sadly the Hollywood drop with closed until the 19th and the demon slayer ride was 150 minute queue so those were a no go. Jaws was surprisingly fun and had no queue.
While the day started off really miserable it got turned around later. I’d like to also note that the staff in all the rides and shops were so upbeat and sweet it was infectious. Still I don’t recommend going when it rains, like REALLY don’t recommend it.
I rode a normal train to get to USJ the train back was a special themed one. Everything in there was retro Mario which was cute. I got myself a little reward on the way back, I was worried about being plus size since I heard they do stop you from getting on the thrill rides, as part of rehab for my leg I did go on a diet and lost 16kg before the trip, so glad I did because as painful as it is to get around I CAN actually get around and without a cane too. Got myself the first chocolate that seemed interesting (Melty kiss from Meiji) and some beauty strips from lion that promised to cure my aching feet. Did nothing but the chocolate was really good, over all a good day at USJ.
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###Day 13
Woke up early at 6 after a bizarre dream involving pineapples again. Decided to grab breakfast at the buffet, they had even more little dishes today so I indulged before dropping back to sleep.
Back up at 10 feeling rather refreshed I decided to visit **Uji**. One place I’ve heard so much about was **Nakamura Tokichi Honten** with their main branch serving a very special [Parfait](https://i.imgur.com/p2V1Z5a.jpg) and [Tea Jelly](https://i.imgur.com/l6C8i8V.jpg) that you can’t get in the other branches. Sadly the wait time in the queue was 2.5 hours long. Thankfully you don’t have to just loiter around, the queue ticket includes a QR code for an online digital queue so I had a look around Uji.
After some sightseeing I was getting hungry so got a queue ticket at **Itoh Kyuemon** which seemed promising, also it was only a 30 minute wait so I took a walk to see the [Uji bridge](https://i.imgur.com/t8yqvfn.jpg) on the way back noticed a few tourists so into their phones that they didn’t notice the cross sign was red and just followed google maps to a shop across the street!
With my turn finally here I got the [Curry](https://i.imgur.com/f0GR32o.jpg) which was great but the roasted tea (brown part) turned out to be keema meat so… the green tea part of it was good at least!
With that my turn to grab dessert was almost here so I rather over did it at Nakamura Tokichi Honten. It doesn’t really show in the photo but the portions are huge. The Parfait in particular is designed to showcase the Nakarmura’s specialties so a little bit of everything carefully layered. I mean, how often does your desert come with an explanation card?!
Afterwards I visited the **Byōdō-in Temple** which is the temple you see on [The ten yen coin](https://i.imgur.com/eaJLr4e.jpg) Also the golden rooster (turned out to be a Phoenix) [on the roof](https://i.imgur.com/1mOOduo.jpg) is the model used for the one on the 10,000 yen banknote. The museum here was really nice, a real hidden gem honestly. Also when I left it I discovered I needed to go down stairs, made of natural stone so uneven, with an odd railway made of bamboo and more decorative than functional… awesome…
I just want to point out that I gave everyone in Tokyo my best crab impression as I went up and down the metro stairs, thankfully people there were so polite that I never felt stared at. They mostly just passed me wordlessly. I think people in Uji are friendlier because as I started to give my crab impression again I noticed an older man slowly walking besides me. I worried we were blocking the path since others were behind us but he wouldn’t budge when I gestured for him to please pass me. Once I got to the bottom though everyone clapped. I’m serious, it turned out he was worried about me so slowed down AND held up everyone else until I made it down safely. So they all clapped for my “achievement”. It was embarrassing but at the same time they were being genuine, zero sarcasm involved. Some really nice people in Uji.
At around 5pm when the shrines and most business started to close decided to call it and headed back to Kyoto. Spent around an hour in the station itself as it’s massive and contains a mall (Also a Samanatha Thevega but not the bag I want). Spent the rest of the day in the Pokémon center and Hands for some last minute shopping before taking one last dip in the Onsen & calling it a day.
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###Day14
Last day. Checked out of the hotel after breakfast and left my bags in their storage.
Since I was up so early I decided to take a little walk down the [Philosopher’s Path](https://i.imgur.com/ygYUrot.jpg). I made a mistake and got off at the wrong station was doing the path in reverse. Worked out in my favor because once I reached the end (beginning) the shrines were starting to open so I visited **Kumano Nyakuōji-jinja Shrine** which has a cute omikuji inside a three legged crow. Their charms are also unique because theirs don’t fulfill wishes or invite good luck but rather are specifically “to illuminate your path in life” which I thought was really cool.
I don’t know why but that sorta gave me a little boost and I decided to try something. Got on the bus and from Kyoto to Osaka went to the main Samantha Thevega store (yes, again!). Osaka had 7 stores and I was going to try them all! Turns out I didn’t need to, after a few phone calls the manager came back to me with an official looking card. It was in Japanese so I don’t know what it said but later understood it to be a permission slip. And yes when I got to the branch that had a few pieces left the first thing they asked for was the card, then my passport to match it up with the email… I am buying a bag right? Not contraband of some sort, right?! Still [I found it!](https://i.imgur.com/bjbg7RW.jpg) it’s a HxH colab which is why it was so popular and hard to find, they had one for each character but I wanted [Killua](https://i.imgur.com/jNexuch.jpg) which was hard mode as it turned out. No regrets and with my Japan souvenir secured I looked around Osaka for a while before heading back to Kyoto.
I still had some time so decided to visit [**Niji Castle**](https://i.imgur.com/cmeUGHY.jpg). They maintained it in its original state including the nightingale floors that produce a sound like birds chirping when you step on them. The experience of going through the different rooms is like being teleported to a different time.
[The castle grounds](https://i.imgur.com/M12Jqse.jpg) were also lovely with a nice looking Chaya on site. It was almost closing time however so I rushed through it.
I wasn’t ready to leave Japan yet so visited the shopping district where I finally went into don quijote. What a random store, how can you finding anything in this mess? Anyway I noticed a Sushiru next door and it suddenly accord to me that I never, not once, tried sushi in japan let alone the conveyer belt restaurants. Honestly, quite good and fresh. Loved the melon soda.
I was in such a good mood I decided to walk to the hotel to collect my bags so that’s another 30 minutes. Gee, I wonder why my last day in Japan I clocked in 31k steps. It’s such a mystery.
At Kansai airport I dropped off the wifi with zero issues however I was delayed at the baggage drop and security check so make sure you arrive for your flight at least 3 hours ahead of time in KIX specifically. And with that my trip ended and I was on my way home and already planning my next visit.
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Thank you for reading and I hope you found something here that helps you when you’re on your own journey across Japan.
by Kidlike101
