This is my 20+ time in Japan, normally wife (44) and I (44) go every 2 years. This time around MIL tagged along and she never been/experience Japan. I’m writing this in ANA wifi.
Oct 30: flew out from IAD to HND on ANA biz class via award.
Oct 31: Arrived HND Terminal 3 at 1525, cleared immigration around 4:15 went and picked up my Pocket Wifi from Sakura Mobile. Then proceeded to Terminal 2 for ANA domestic flights to KIX. Flight wasn’t until 20:30. Terminal 2 always kinda suck, so just chilled at ANA domestic lounge and pound 2-3 self serve draft beer. Arrived KIX 21:50 have a car service drove us to our hotel (Holiday Inn Namba). I used all IHG points so my entire stay was free. Every 4 nights of points 5 night is free. Getting to Dotombori during Halloween was a nightmare lots of people on the streets. Checked in at hotel around 2330, went out got 2 Strong Zero took Zanaflex with it, slept like a baby.
Nov 1: Just to re-orient myself after 4 years, we just chilled in Namba area. Had gyudon breakfast at Sukiya, then went to Dogasuji Street to dropped off my carbon steel I bought from Sakai Ichimonji 9 years ago for them to re-sharpen. It takes about a week. I then got a 50,000 yen Deba from them w/ strong dollar its nothing plus tax free. The rest of the day was just my wife and her mom’s tax free cosmetic shopping around Shinsaibashisuji. Ate dinner at a Akiyoshi for kushiyaki and kushiage.
Nov 2: I was fortunate to get a tour reservations to the Asahi Brewery/Beer Museum. Travelling with old people easier to just taxi, its about 15 km cost about $40, cheap if you’re coming from DC. The tour was great its 1000 yen a person, you get the factory tour, at the end, you get 2 free beer tasting of what Asahi have to offer including Asahi Black (stout beer). Then they give a souvenir beer glass. Unfortunately, Suita is kinda rural, no taxi shows up on taxi app. Decided to walk to Suita station and train it back to Namba. Stopped by some wagyu ramen place on the way home. Then have reservation for Matsusaka M in Hozenji Yokocho for some Matsusaka Wagyu, can’t source in USA.
Nov 3: Took MIL to Kyoto to meet w/ wife’s younger sister and her bf. Took the Hankyu line to Kyoto from Nippombashi, sure trip was an hour at 650 yen, who cares. Then took taxi from Kawaramachi to whatever ryokan in Ninenzaka. Dumped MIL to sister, so they can do their touristy Kyoto shit, I’ve done plenty in my life. Went to Starbucks at Ninenzaka just to check out the new Strawberry Cream Latte. Hauled ass to Kiyomizu around 0930 and its already a zoo. Goal was just to buy Kyoto pickles and kitschy Japanese Tchotche as souvenir gifts to friends. Stopped had zaru soba in Ninenzaka watching crowds of people not knowing where TF they going. Tried going to Pokemon Center Kyoto, lines were so damn long, plus all the Kyoto items like Maiko Pikachu are sold out. Got back to Namba around 1400 and then waited for MIL and SIL for dinner at Kani Doraku in Namba at 1930.
Nov 4: Acted as a tour guide in Osaka on what SIL, her bf wanted to see. Had lunch at Hozenji Yokocho in since they never had takoyaki/okonomoyaki at Honke Ohtako. Then went to Den Den Town as SIL wasn’t able to check out Akihabara. I’m like you can get that same feeling in Den Den Town. Bought some new released Luffy Gear 5 figures and some 2nd hand 5-toubun Hanayome figures, LOL. Then for dinner took all 4 of them to Shinsekai/Tsutentaku, ate at Jumbo Tsuribune fishing restaurant. They fished, I didn’t bother, fishes hardly take bait and at most you saved 500 yen. How much is ones time worth?
Since we already in Shinsekai. I trolled and took them across the train tracks for them to experience the OG Osaka. I’m surprised hardly anyone put it on their itinerary. That’ll be Tobita Shinchi Yukaku (Adult Disneyland). We went throught the shitty ran down Janjan Yokocho Nanyodori Shotengai. The feel of the environment starts to change from loud/brightly lit Shinsekai to everything seems subdued, area is dimly lit, lots of Showa era kyabakura. Your start seeing homeless people sleeping on the street, no different from any big city. After traversing through it, everything is well lit again in Tobita Shinchi with mama-san plying il you to come in.
I was then explaining how the process work. How prostitution is illegal in Japan. But all those houses are ryoutei (small restaurants), you get serve senbei and tea. Then what happens behind close door, that’s between 2 consenting adults. Going rate right now is 13000 for 15 min, you get lollipop at the end.
Nov 5: Took it slow, taxi’d to Umeda Daimaru to check out some items. Pokemon Center Osaka, Mugiwara Store, Capcom and Nintendo store are all there. Unfortunately, due to the weekends the lines to get in, pay were extremely long. I supposed some people suck it up as Osaka not their base. Had lunch at Ganko kaiten sushi, then stayed around until Pokemon Community Day. More Pokemon stops and spawn in Pokemon Center. Headed back to Namba, found a hole in a wall yakitori place called Yakitori Ainosuke that also serves torisashi, had both their raw chicken breast and raw chicken thigh. Dropped MIL back to hotel and hit up a Joysound karaoke w/ wife for couple hours. Only Joysound have all the Demonslayer songs, Mai Kuraki, BoA, and Exile.
stay tuned for part 2
by akitada-kure
4 comments
part 2
Nov 6: I went to pick up my newly sharpened knife and new Deba w/ name carved on the steel. Had lunch at Sakai Gin Shariya Gekotei in Daimaru Shinsaibashisuji. They are known for giving you 8 side dishes w/ your meal. This time around they have robots delivering food to your table. Then went to Pokemon Center DX one floor below also where Pokemon Cafe Osaka is located. Checked out their stuff, didn’t buy anything it was all underwhelming. Jump Store Osaka is also here, just bought some stickers for my suitcase. Shopping again for my wife and her mom, while I ran to my tattoo appointment at Three Tides Tattoo in Amerikamura, this is my 3rd time with Mutsuo. Went to Izakaya Yokozuna for dinner, food was only ok. Didn’t feel like thinking as the tattoo took 4 hours. Izakaya Yokozuna serves 1 Litre beer and Chuhai, why not.
Nov 7: Went to Shittenoji Temple, then showed MIL how they can pay for a Buddhist monk to do a memorial service for FIL who died last year. It’s about 3000 yen, writing his name in furigana. Monk chants then tell you to go to an area in the temple ground where they take the name and put it in the turtle pond. I suppose eventually the paper disintegrates vs burning it in a fire. Then went to Abeno Q Mall for lunch at ApparaTenpu for some tempura and cold sudachi udon. Mugiwara store is very empty here so I bought some stuff. They also have Ryugi Assaku for folks who wants to buy very loud Japanese style clothing with lots of sakura embroidery on jeans, etc.
At night, went to Michelin 3 Star, Taian about 33000/person. You have to prepay amount during the reservation I did a month ago. It was kappo style kaiseki, the food was awesome, very traditional. However, it’s very subdued vs engaging like other 3 stars I’ve been. The price was cheap in USD and you don’t have to tip, compared to dining in NYC/DC.
Nov 8: Went to Nara so MIL can see the deers and pray to Dainichi Nyorai Buddha. While they do their thing, I collected the rest of goshuin in the Todaiji temple ground. I didn’t know there were 9 satellite temples around Todaiji. Ate at Hiten, a Japanese Chinese restaurant, they make a really unbearable spicy mapo tofu, we cleared it anyway. Headed back to Namba, rest a bit. Then we ate at Zauo fishing restaurant for dinner, the last few days to enjoy aji, ama-ebi, shirako, hotaru ika (raw baby squids).
Nov 9: Packed to see how much stuff we bought. Learned we still got room, so essentially just more last minute shopping. Went to Osaka with 3 suitcases going home with 6, since I won’t be back for a while. Content mostly cosmetic skin care, anime figures, tenga eggs as stocking stuffers. Went to Isomaru Suisan for lunch for more raw and grilled seafood. Packed rest of the stuff. Then went to Matsusaka M again for dinner.
Nov 10: Flight KIX to HND was 0700. Airport transfer arrived at 0400 hauled ass to KIX, since we have ANA biz, suitcase are good upto 70 lbs each which I pretty much for 4 of them. Security was a breeze as premium class gets priority boarding Arrived at HND, hoping to buy a bottle of Hakushu or Yamazaki, they’re out except for Ao. Should’ve bought them in Osaka, oh well.
Nobody checked items purchased or collected tax free receipts. How can they, all my luggage were checked in from Osaka. I know they tell you not to open sealed tax free bags, I have always opened them to arrange them properly in my suitcase.
Lastly, checked out Bar Shiki, Bar Nayuta, Osaka Bible Club for those who love to drink and enjoy the old timey speakeasy feel. Those bar are hidden in non descript buildings all over Namba, they also don’t have menus. You just tell bartender how you’re feeling and what kind of liquor base you like.
Dude, you are a brave man to bring your wife and MIL to Tobita Shinchi Yukaku. Maybe it’s an Asian thing, but if my girlfriend learned what Tobita really is, they would forbid me from talking about it at all, let alone visiting with her.
Why wait 6+ hours for a flight from HND to KIX instead of taking shinkansen? Seeing the scenery from a train seems way more fun than an airport lounge for new visitors like MIL, right?
Were you waitlisted at first for the Biz tickets for RT IAD to HND? How early were you allowed to book the business class seats?