**- Tl;dr if you’re a returning visitor to Japan, I highly recommend that you consider the outskirts such as Shikoku (in my earlier post here) or Tottori/Shimane – I personally find the more ‘outside’ routes more rewarding, and considerably less crowded as well.**
\- This is a continuation post from Part 1 [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/1aomr9m/trip_report_36_days_across_western_japan_part_1/) (Day 0\~9).
\- Refer to link here for a map covering Day 10\~12 [here](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/edit?mid=1TmEKqR38KdO9ZANdy4FjKQNBD2sX0pI&usp=sharing)(labelled Part 1), Day 13\~23 [here](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/edit?mid=1hRB0x5K59WhDpBU2dybU0T9cJUo0Gok&usp=sharing)(labelled Part 2).
\- This post covers between Hiroshima (Day 10) to Kinosaki Onsen (Day 18).
\- This trip occurred during Mid-November to Mid-December (autumn season).
**Day 10 – Kintaikyo Bridge (Yamaguchi), Simose Art Museum and Miyajima (Hiroshima)**
Started off the day with a breakfast at the hotel, before taking the Shinkansen over to JR Shin-Iwakuni station for just 15 minutes \[NOTE: only the Kodama type stops here\], and transferring to a local bus (not covered by JR pass) to see the bridge. There is an admission fee of 310 yen to [cross the bridge](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwomxbk348liI-Uc8ecexn6VYik9_oLbeK3SQiJ6h4L7rpdmmvgjwVBIs581Fd5b_1PfJKaYFnVVkBVQKOal8e711iKUSusz5_siRl4y0sqGcivVm6yClO4-jqxe_BRQVtruVrAaE5l4mA12BXrOc7fabUQK3Aa_Cnvb75jN5zVchjeWUkFt2La7fu44/s4032/IMG_6362.JPG) and back. Spent just about 1.5 hours strolling and relaxing around the area.
After that, before noon I headed over to the [Simose Art Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-gG969NvP7z81MddLYGXzEQYKsUKWGUbqFt1mOi0s6s8gkZhEX4TAVqk8fGYUTueWe824orzc14w91i0pReA5XwVMUzQy-6uo78Syzgwvh1JsiYw9W5B6PRANcRl9XGR-atfp0AvFZlbxtK3_uQC-vq84ak-z274gQllpkj8FODy6wHIYywIUZuJLMY/s4032/IMG_6415.JPG), a new art museum that popped up between Iwakuni and Hiroshima back in April 2023 (yes, its THAT new). Accessibility to the museum via public transport is limited – you will either need to time your bus connection well, or face walking \~2.5km from the nearest station (JR Kuba/Otake) over. Shuttle buses to/from the museum direct are only available on the weekends (I visited on a Tuesday); consequently I had to walk (or eat a 1h penalty/wait for the next public bus). The museum feels [modern](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1kOwdRCtpR7OzHcWBAdiSVi9fP70cwmCa0mtCm6l3P6D3nh0GrOWcUdQhTHTYwQXjPm2nbMcnYBC6rJ5CusSXQM0_1PXoc7rOdAjpwkZ5EPpupJnxRndBHRCkGlSPwSLkXWUxDcZYvZYKWQp3mxX-_Fj1Tfq1hui1zqnqkBx3dwF9v_SWDvv1zoY0ds/s4032/IMG_6418.JPG) with its mirror-like exterior, but exudes a traditional, wooden vibe on the interior. I suppose its main call to fame is its “[8-colored boxes](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8S1ZEapg-ERWOc0eZZm2D5TRqdNPbgiyrGN8-EWQaBp71y6Lfo9v-WjHkpxlNpQluOGV_m0vZbIBfSu3AKjNFnEInqSO_armjSEYExwa2fCzQrkrSZgP6W0YjCsrmMxnz8IBmUcGBYx3Mmn4hSsv0y0IfkDKd0imULET21ymH02ozMcDHZg4sIVDkDx8/s4032/IMG_6576.JPG)” exhibition hall situated above a shallow pool, facing the Seto Inland Sea, which is most certainly memorable (or Instagram-worthy). There is both English translation and audio guides if you are unable to read Japanese. The museum was enjoyable though I wished they would consider improving public transport accessibility to said museum if they want to draw more tourists in. Admission tickets are (relatively) steep at \~1.8k yen. I would suggest rationing 1.5\~2 hours here in order to enjoy your time here.
After that, I decided to walk back to JR Kuba to hop over to Miyajima. When I took the ropeway up to [Mount Misen](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBs9Gzc5gFDKmOzm9JTlbG0aeoTl7oO4sfket7ytlrgw7BmGqklG3V7FlMGexuTdhdHpd5MPUXyq86Pamj0HoheWCR8STZOSyDmDVt3CPvWJTgzHrYnV7MN99aCuj6uWRorWNBQv-QwGDdf6tNW1KDBivTqvuSFuzBG6OJw8Q9PztvmoxkzK45k5NqEg/s4032/IMG_6659.JPG), it was just past 1530. Getting up to Mount Misen this late was a major mistake in hindsight for two reasons – first, the ropeway service back to ground level ends at 1630, meaning that there’s not enough time for me to head all the way up to the top. Secondly, there was a really LONG queue for people to get off Mount Misen. It took nearly 45 minutes of queuing time to get on a return ropeway down to base. In short, if you want to get up to Mount Misen, do it early and cater more time for it (probably 2-3 hours). That aside, I was able to watch the sunset at [Itsukushima Shrine](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMuBr4xE75iej3Cp163wVtrUna62N-oFz6br4jeJTVBQGglDZoYwaQqnd646hRSjmtuaNmd0EbASS1vQlhAXV1ktn2dE964gSXZk4gHvtzO8_3dn7UmpQQab5ZDNASl9qN_52AGjTh6WkaUGVOBuWKsCXtVr4fQH3LRGBUS0dAbhfBhOz3qzmh4KOeDZI/s4032/IMG_6692.JPG) (night version here).
**Day 11 – Peace Memorial Park, Yamato Museum, JSDF Maritime Museum (Hiroshima)**
After finishing some paperwork to forward my luggage to my next destination, I went to the [Peace Memorial Park](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcDCcstWQB6e7rSBZMA1f-oCqHxASoUteNRq7_zeBTArd7OY9vbqgPOyMPlMD-6yGbCsxBgIkRF03ZbVX2g9PPbdJwh2-UuJ6ZDqUyHisY1BclKlXx3w2XD2_-Xpb8aCBpeky3kzDOpWS0uI808cw1guMIq9ekZrEG0gi4uXetUjnFU-2ulyvrDBmKGCU/s4032/IMG_6835.JPG) which was a 10 minutes walk away from the hotel. I think it drives home the point for nuclear abolition rather well overall. The main museum, A-bomb dome and the memorial cenotaph was crowded as expected, though other parts of the park were just as well presented (but with significantly lesser tourist footfall) such as the Peace Memorial Hall and the Children’s Peace Monument. My thoughts is that you’ll probably have to dedicate about 2-3 hours if you want to properly comb through the entire park at a moderate pace. I spent the morning here for reference.
For the afternoon, I took a highway bus from downtown Hiroshima to Kure (you could do it via JR but the highway bus was more accessible for me) to visit the [Yamato Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNy2AhntOaDDKMdTK94W_SpZLQrVDR8WTbgwPgDfttcuWDQWcqU56JJVlDPCnXOVBfXct5VoDQUFPAKxe8chdqoybsI4eFxU7jSt0ISz9IHD6AV5s8yoDxEGG1xbUYd26ci9rbnNThI2sHZHX2TnfhsfvuIwSuGT4d8aR35Ds1rKswOsqcEbf5eB969ak/s4032/IMG_7001.JPG) and [JSMDF Kure Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0hYS10rZhOf781SDmrWh0scCoaCwuKL0lPun1pdly0HhHI50YVQ4SSvEr2o4dBuimqwuFN9CmGnzYwckqVo-hsAHU6YE4LlQDpi-GrOjW_KQ-jSf5dlN1yGVjGO0xineVC34K5O1q0MleW_D_mya_qm-cae4POjte6J1SX0s1-9XhEoBuPEmxjTPHns/s4032/IMG_7077.JPG). If you’re into military or naval history, this should be right up your alley. The Yamato Museum details Japan’s naval history in Kure, and has that mega-scale [Yamato battleship](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3V881ohSbCkt91CDTv6fNwYOIcOxdxNRNg3QZoJGRJaWEpL3A2n736Dz24qERWs2zib3uuVVlgYvwzepjj6scEXs_317wtBEg0cSMTShU20EhTtEzVvRXMGCfKiUt1DvXzk9mBZ477fXyE3GyuU0iMijnOUJy1CRHmoob236nErFk7mQ8hvehN2gJmE/s4032/IMG_7013.JPG) which is pretty impressive. Whereas for the JMSDF museum, it details JMSDF’s contribution such as anti-mining efforts and and various joint exercises around the world. The highlight though was being able to enter the life-sized submarine replica and see how [cramped](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNAIdfLaTqelXmqLzR6HJF_5wdOK73yQwYTc_pHZ_mTGWQuTI4TFIlQTa1kV0HHVBzPUXMOUT7DOM5KgoiqqDl44lo5tyHtr4Wt1xPTFZnr5wpNMTq2N1XWcu57U7ru6h3N_By0cbNx5cVE0KDdaqQQIR4jsPc0Hmp3zmPtIFBulPHa_RazB_14GeP-_I/s4032/IMG_7189.JPG) submarines can be first-hand. No visit to Kure is complete without trying the [JMSDF curry](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGax1itkas3s66wnrsoKEV8rZH8uX7TYlovgqlT4hBNu53CpSTQb5Fr02RjLc7XgQFGy7MPpF-JX_swvnapw3zNhfuqwsyXyGt7YGZ4CA4eOwr2uqVYOUSme0KmizXFcA59yWzCtVEPtNY8dOQyzox9AzHSAzWaQKS68cJbHM-JXSNefgeufK1kLugwQ/s4032/IMG_6976.JPG); I thought it was … alright, not exceptional, but not terrible either – good for a taster at least. Kure is about half an hour away from Hiroshima, and can be done as a (half)-day trip.
In essence, Hiroshima isn’t limited to just Miyajima and the Peace Memorial Museum – I feel that devoting an extra one or two days to explore the peripheral areas (Kure, Onomichi etc) would enhance your experience more in that area!
**Day 12 – Kurashiki (Okayama), Yuushien (由志園) (Shimane)**
This day is meant to be a ‘repositioning day’ from Hiroshima to Matsue (since I’ll need to travel 2.5 hours across the San’in mountains). Hopping on the Shinkansen over to Shin-Kurashiki and local rail to JR Kurashiki, I decided to spend the morning [strolling along the historical quarters](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVnpZwJx0LDRb2rsoa8n4y60Z-FyG8Fd6bJappUHJCOCR9auvSI05hyphenhyphenj54lNYpEDQPQXZV_KiME6PjaFMetSH1iQ-tzCypHNOOrn-9iM4tCjP9egOIEw9Uj2DhCejDuaMPfIKrSD-DpCroeF-gDUfleK3FRZYjA_zcVdlBAV7yoGu3Lrp0bzbJi5lKRVA/s4032/IMG_7310.JPG) and visit the Ohara Museum of Art which was not bad. As always, coming early here means you get to beat the crowd and get an unobstructed view of the canals. There’s also a mini-denim street.
Taking the *Yakumo* train, by the time I reached Matsue and deposited my luggage at the hotel, it was already 1500. Nevertheless, I managed to squeeze in a visit to Yuushien (由志園) which had just started its autumn illumination at night (day version here). Taking a bus over, I spent the evening walking in the garden and [watch the illumination](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDF0V3m3YWVwdM4ZI8VPPrvuPRNnJTU1RPj2FGBcwSQO_4ILHgQItZ-3w2JJtE3B0qm5aw0Ytk4Ku-Qf714EVH2W3mp_GL6zNU414xHly8hq7tt6w9xppWGNKjcDWfqRu8TMYBpBs1VzxdaTnqgifLx4eT6LDDnl1mrQ6aOBCQ9AzZ26rnaBkLp728JQ/s4032/IMG_7517.JPG); it was pretty, and also relatively chill \[crowd levels are definitely much manageable over here\].
**Day 13 – Adachi Museum of Art, Izumo Taisha, Ancient Izumo History Museum , Inase Beach (Shimane)**
***NOTE: Days 13 \~ 16 is covered by the Sanin-Okayama Pass for JR-related trains***
The plan for the day was to start off at the Adachi Museum of Art in the morning, before breaking wesstwards towards Izumo Taisha and exploring the area before circling back to Matsue for the night.The Adachi Museum of Art is renowned for its well-curated [garden](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFlVdCZh-gsHCr6Y0qx2sx30MQlZKExEg9yQ1sYfbWHgxh30Ejoeph_SyMLBQ1DMvrh3n5MuGQy08ZgUK52MNLfatqenwXLFABdVxY1aSrIAS9VWL_C6Jj337wKO-4PdXepXFYks8u8VxrkcXxHWTkLxJH0eYLF1coZM-HfDJWkZpRQ0ke3vCmlNAbv70/s4032/IMG_7602.JPG), and in my opinion it certainly lives up to its title. Besides that, there is also an extensive art gallery which I would say is on par with some of the better ones in my opinion (think Benesse Art Museum). Access to the museum via public transport is doable via JR Yasugi and hopping on the shuttle bus which departs at fixed timings, however, do note that the bus has a maximum seating capacity of 28; if it fills ahead of time you’ll be forced to wait for the next bus (hourly departure). For the return trip to JR Yasugi, you will need to grab a ticket near the counter to book a slot for the shuttle bus (free).
I then took the Yakumo limited express train over to JR Izumo, and swapped to a bus towards Izumo Taisha. There were a lot of rabbit statuettes littered around the temple, a nod to the folktale *The White Hare of Inaba*. Considering that it was a public holiday in Japan (Labor Thanksgiving Day) and its innate popularity, it was rather crowded; I decided to queue for one of the smaller shrines and got a goshuin for my effort. I do want to mention that those binded rice straws (Shimenawa) at the [front of the temple](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVpvh8PBtyYT0u2zZKDanJGN8jOLiwuZp842TOFI3TVCu3-K1NXfr-cfdEUQt-BLeuVi0KNevSYI3peIA8VP46AuwRMcWzL2D6b8-E4CAXaykChnGgod6bMCl9KiEe84UIyYbDuoe5QgZixBYH91HJh8e5T8D3zyp1ATsm60YHtePSzSiOek6zWwxcD8/s4032/IMG_7665.JPG) are extraordinarily thick– seeing is believing. There was still some time before sunset so I decided to walk over next door to the [Shimane Museum of Natural History](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkuBHP1b_0fBzpLMdKnaJQO5Bkm8QgD2YsStRMwi43t1UlC4nsI5ic67FhMQZJnMfLqJ07ZiJnpqLvf-TZOR-NV35-_ZGtWWp68BQMri75o568r8FzxQgfrpxbCZoo2f6bbwUVMflhh75W6ZUAqaVrDFwD4ZviV74jf9T_exgCIV1sLrQ-34ykaXlRMM/s4032/IMG_7687.JPG) which provided a run-down on the history of Izumo. If I recall correctly, admission is half-priced for foreign visitors so it might be worth a visit even on a budget. The main thing that stuck with me for this museum was the [very long temple replica](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7e_AriRaOppLnyqz99C-ctd7o4tEtH5PFi2hluffP_ZSLBmYhY8HKFdYClSmKeud3zHK-eChfvg_jBsQYjEugupzfwjW8dfMEPG4kEsfQpkoof1m6zl4ju-lan7VgOTqcMF48KzA0mCWppYUGHgkpfLoA7WVmhvEwOE0XCO4L06HvMA9pi664s0wrXis/s4032/IMG_7701.JPG), as well as a full-blown jade/bronze [armoury](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lcHFcO6k4dE3nsxHcAsvYccccKR130NLDuxlR3r-8dpdWaCfxbhBM5LZ7m3jPoWUextHy3P_4cdnLhrC70uxjQ0ZI5SLdmRKsyTeVdP9qTud8SY2G6TdF654LmK3xDBQ7yc94YnSlLF6mdBCqCeWKo4LIZh17Aif4tyatNhzUOkTmMJ4UeZsET_ERhE/s4032/IMG_7718.JPG). Lastly, I took a walk over to [Inase Beach](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrL1NfcbmtIsLToW2y6wpjaPbtYrbCTqbJ0cKThXzof-S6VGDOhC0xOoYlX93WyfXQIA-dQLXAPDS8Et227vmD4h0Hf1-JlIfILwLYQpuJbVzLsxXdK6y3tk5IOQpg_ptrbFpySyVaiL_tjTcEXmmMJU6bijUxmFnFNKBAQXiYBC0RWPUUxAiEQ7Ms8U/s4032/IMG_7733.JPG) to visit the sunset; there was a tori gate perched on an outcrop with a donation box stuck near it. Although the sea breeze was chilly, [watching the sunset](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW8IilUHug288cHhleIZgphg4OSntoJdHbTM0fz3wFAXEUrV6dX8LnkVFNhBjfaYBajY21Ljxh-lLdeqI3c3LaoVTyzvFbo16rWDXDAugiaFE2_vHj2SVdr-_OnwWDhaXVjN2EVUgQIjff5KgmAbNEma7YXV3ThnY85qvcBw8nsHtbFJd0AR0PRkIN_2w/s4032/IMG_7739.JPG) was something worth visiting; its one of those visuals that would stick with me long after this trip fades away from memory.I took the local Ichibata tram that courses along the northern stretch of Lake Shinji back to Matsue to retire for the night.
For dinner, I chanced upon a local cafeteria called *Bamboo* where I ordered their daily special – [kimchi beef nabe](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMypy882O4jkmZp0VpLuHJ6CRk3qUQ0awbnXNwsmEShMGTYM8MERg2vXImmLp-oZCyBj1OZuhlhBl5ZKstywZjdbIuqiGZ9Od2DRHz6qckUlaAsuHHl0B8h3mC5B6JVmPgQhf16XmESWHoj5dRg4VdyEavvHvUhVA-wbKiSnLm3TJjxsE5YkfJpC7Qc7Y/s4032/IMG_7773.JPG), and some karaage. The husband and wife owner duo offered to provide me a free serving of zosui \[porridge\] using the leftover soup base from the nabe at no extra charge which I gratefully accepted. With my basic command of Japanese, I was able to have a meaningful conversation about some of the tourist hotspots, as well as some of the town happenings – they mentioned that one of the temple nearby was celebrating 神在祭 (lit. gods are present festival) tomorrow and I noted that down. I just find the hospitality rather heartwarming and just want to give them a shoutout here.
**Day 14 – Sada Jinja, , Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum, Matsue Castle (Shimane), Misasa Onsen (Tottori)**
Started off with a visit to [Sada Jinja](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOaGuehqlmDV40ubLyJkeJdHt1JooeAcWlanABsaZmMEDIbMGFYGHpkudu7b9VkqOGv7QUCN70nZtugqK3O-Kiz4VOjaqsa2ZY5k4NNtOZoNCs5y-xw9Kr_F7zbihT343KDYecpWT6MMSPciQB5Ba1PI35hYulWwAuFSoMfliw9jKZ3rVL2z9KthTTn-k/s4032/IMG_7828.JPG), a relatively remote shrine in the outskirts of Matsue. Unfortunately, the main event that the cafeteria owner mentioned would only take place at night, but nevertheless, there were those bazaar stores open for me to explore and buy some finger foods etc. Grabbed a goshuin for my effort, and a corn cob.Taking a return bus to central Matsue, I stopped by the [Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicv7p1SIMrb0Dao-AC96dBYioFdSBYFIHsbLvd7dgyhY7U-wQBTT-icmU74ZE0rJQSRYlyUgc_DsPug0NGIgtpjT_fu6WW3EHQ8hNuzCkhuJ48v8vuazwhyphenhyphenbUJIZvUWlmpmRN-Dacy6t2-lJX3-ONoos5kwAqKi7CvM-SVH0BGiAhCnpQiOwSayRVQz10/s4032/IMG_7880.JPG) where they detailed this one foreigner that made significant effort integrating into 1900s Japan society and contributed enough to be worthy of memorializing. There was a rather popular soba restaurant nearby (*Kamiyo Soba*) serving [nameko \[mushroom\] soba](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0azZs47_HfkE1dnSwmrAA-YLLMd2HZSXqXIvkII3YLp1WuD4mk6n1G55Cxh5MvYF3d_y2DRP_997I5zgXFuGPFGm3Ua4NZodj-GEM-q3fibPjayDwXMaLEPo58_Zhcwurl4dajDhALpLJB-CF-ZT8ApCtBmDWjzGpCUTQnoJlda2JsjvvMi-3o7ad6c/s4032/IMG_7888.JPG) which I thought was pretty delicious. After lunch, I walked over to explore [Matsue Castle](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgduz4Pc1TSMh0kF0jWQLoKUw2MOvpLV1YduRaQyYYfB_8gh-p1bBrV-ssJlzSKl6TFXzSBB3otLvksklvXNwW8Y9UH3bQ_BnWliE5mKJBz7D9QawQwVQ-PNTbKDehprU3HE_NL3naEXYXWgu8-zjvyR1Ltfh8odjIjRCzEPocw_jy4DMBhjHxZtpeqcsU/s4032/IMG_7907.JPG), one of the few remaining original castles left standing in Japan. The size of it is pretty impressive when you look at it in person.
Finally, I headed over to JR Matsue to board the *Ametuchi* [sightseeing train](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihaXitKRP8gUPfETtwogCkECjQzA_oxQgtN-cu5z9tgpl2x2QgDhQVFvSAccX2UeKAcVnGPH-9VN_CpLY3RYUSIgWoe30sN8ZSczGTeAvXRlqzTflANfwAulJKbaiD1LGYwBiMyeM_if4A_ucRXxU24USmDjOruBbwxqfbzgqZU_9Lpp3YoFDs_PL7HeI/s4032/IMG_8032.JPG). As with other sightseeing trains, there was a [bar](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzvVY57FBztVacyQqqiuINXtpMw3GGKm3X_N22JQRPCecmeRGZzu9jJohsan8J1TIvq-VmtaC3xuSJ3xKQxqMfZMaqkJAiWr01t87SnJZb4wsP9HYcmEw1Ge9XU9N9AO_BkK-y8PCW-50tudhYQWueL8KYNaEWSszM_ZzZn5IdX5z6mESg7Tj6cMZYtE/s4032/IMG_7984.JPG) where you could buy some snacks and drinks to consume. Two particular aspects that stood out to me was the comfy, [wooden design feel](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidkKEUCBf-5JtsLovrWWmDClM25m18DvB6I2uLkt8lMe0bHlB46Bf75gevRd7r18wm3l7rOANYZbXeEomoEpD73KqUErevBIDfKimK2JE5xiU8opGD9_GlXstH_2u0gi1eN9cHg7bmOg8qk5EFyI0MD2ZAyKW5vnvF_Nq5g_s6jiyVYbjHbdPaYDem4eA/s4032/IMG_7982.JPG) that was present throughout the train, and was how well they integrated various local crafts into the train, such as the tiles that are on the tables. The sightseeing train coasted along the Sanin line facing the Sea of Japan which made for an enjoyable sightseeing ride. As with previous sightseeing trains, you could book this sightseeing train easily via the JR West website. JR pass (or the Sanin-Okayama Area Pass) covers the base fare.
The train runs from JR Izumo all the way to JR Tottori, though I stopped at Kurayoshi to head to my final destination for the next two nights – Misasa Onsen. The main reason for choosing this particular onsen town was that I wanted to climb up Nageire-dou the next day, which was a 20 minutes bus ride away. However, I made a major blunder by not engaging a local guide to climb with me ahead of time (since the regulations are that hikers need to go in pairs in interest of safety). I casually remarked this to the chauffer that picked me up to the ryokan, and he went above and beyond to call various people to make it happen. Although it was ultimately unsuccessful \[since it was so last minute – entirely my own fault\], I was really moved by his efforts – it really speaks to the otomenashi experience that ryokans provide, a unique aspect to Japan.
Onto to the actual ryokan – Mansuiro (万翆楼). The [room](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3nChDS-OVolVbTLEdwQXQNnDaukMOuCWQO924Y55HS3Fa6jwwjMjrOixB68booy3KK49wZKRLt2_YiCOrZqNVKOMkyki_N-kJyIvQUpTfT1GcsxWtdnZiWpPUOhSxnAd2ZWJcjgw50TO_5YYdvFs9LzNRCHHauEL_I-vtI8GXgX4IlblL03leBbby1F4/s4032/IMG_8042.JPG) was pretty traditional with tatami mats and futons, but it was comfortable overall. I would like to give special mention to their [dinner](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLl21T4qTWBHufL_Mi3eDAqwcN-VdfGrgRfxZNDZIoaTdX5elNxc3XGJR9a0LesNtGmKp9UGCjyAuXvWNizxacB_KoW0IG14pFlSDxrkhF9BQEjIcbiqfPxhZl4-3zaHb7Qs9JsyBXkuqd4SjCWbopYerQWOZvGCIbqG60lnry7LqzsGMINZE4g4GgtE/s4032/IMG_8063.JPG) [service](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnV2dth3T22Ib4vlwpwHDzX_ovXwOoXAC3mzZbFW9d0jWnNo970OnL4sXNSZSvb1EskJVCrmLrTlXTZ5iZQV5K8Hf9tWveOXrHovg_SBBbFvxZyV53gg3rxTqz47wQnmtqGP4iFJ9Un3FdvL2IL01sX9z2H9sYQ-z1xfIGgmy7ii94r9EPU30QMPWGwM/s4032/IMG_8073.JPG) which was delectable, showcasing their local cuisine such as crabs, beef sukiyaki and pear wine (!). Another nice subtle touch is how they labelled each dining room with the assigned guest name. I would highly recommend them if you do pass by this area. Also, I would also mention that this particular ryokan is ‘rare’ in the sense that it accepts solo pax bookings; most ryokans would only accept a minimum of 2 pax in order for them to accept your reservations.
**Day 15 – Misasa Onsen, Kurayoshi Figurine Museum, Nijisseiki Pear Museum (Tottori)**
Had a scrumptious [breakfast](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7c2IuRzzhnkTen2CZl18x0o4b_njxehjXfJJG3N7T4dNPel8qk-8tTtHAKFSJrydzWkIEf3Gjqb6VhEoxc_OdVx8PtJS5TfcXAphI1TzsnMuM1pVuW32Kg5I5-JuvP8SvAGSf5bChpzkOTZtnYzc7FGd9FLjlsthr2B9m1eWs2T788zruMNnqYfrC4I/s4032/IMG_8095.JPG) at the ryokan (look at the quantity of it – I struggled to finish them). Even though I knew that I wont be able to climb Nageire-dou, I decided to go over to view the temple from a distance \[and try my luck and see if any solo strangers were there too\]. Unfortunately, at \~9am, there were very few trekkers, and I didn’t feel right butting into those couples so I decided not to push my luck further and leave. I managed to get a shot of the [remote temple](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZrFbv-db-J4N6HpVmls0-qiQ-JNHZhtByzS8bumzVu1eGr5Ig3LU7wwD5swpQ4stAAmXJoZJD92Dw9XfcF5D7TpGXziLXHivdAaJBAaUd49G9HNs7-s48qm3RO-32dvxBSGB6EYyVXLRrIXJlSFIso7nB5FCsMv6huMx5Ds2ZMp2iCPl-aZk-YJNLlE/s4032/IMG_8138.JPG) from the observatory point.
With that minor setback, I decided to head over to the nearby town of Kurayoshi via bus to spend the day. Some notable attractions in brief as follow:
\- [Kurayoshi Figurine Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ9FQPG4P6gFljE0F63qDesGnKzZVkS5BWhmA9ru9tPnED3xnTQvsQrvQRk1nwCDKa-MU_TEt0ypm9Xcl6J2OuTVOZUn_-3z841zsfl5wpOg5iQqsnvG3lRY5EIBzQIotO30_JcjaFNhuptdwAhlu3n6Xp2demuqxIwzzAzjizUtu-IWvqC1dLulEwNKw/s4032/IMG_8157.JPG): As a repurposed school building, this is a good place to visit if you have interest in anime or figurine collecting. At the point of visiting, there were some [exhibits](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0nEgS2IpCj8gmqDntYvgY6xKE_ZF8Fgi0NKAJqM2QqM2_ztIBSH0XpL77ioSL5zyzcwXAQgqWfeJHSderrDyHVwWxiq7le3cjCWnLL1IMG0N8oJ39HXvmZxe6qwrGVHHNCXAwwfsWP4M_V6_zwlc9Garfh2eYr8QK_KD3VQiUs0mJhUlOd2oEX6ygqJE/s4032/IMG_8476.JPG) detailing how they made those nenedroids. Even if you aren’t into anime, there are also other figurines such as [military](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84PpfPUWaFcmqRpDMvpVNPgZLu6_xbAselLmdplylz-qBDnoa6j_QUxNCubC2GcsTvvdymmYouG66Mz1UT0UxaNcnfbZvA7mCJvxb_pXXgafX1MqCZRyoz6T03NVN2EaNbLocURqzRJHNrIjjt2eexy2LHtB8VF0DXo3814HvrDkiJIFnvGedSNP2PIU/s4032/IMG_8304.JPG)(tanks/jets), and [animals](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizzYqkMFZv1iEsud86dLQL-rAhW2XtciicGvn2jB4VnjU7JXXrtUSNb5SdRYCR8_oMBFZa6myDPOSsl5rLR3dIg8gbsVhvhCAbcPxD5Y_1BY6P0XEVK1QgQUeYRuCma4MrjmVuIZEIANHndP_j3tjnyR-bITaU7FHIZtzfdVoTeJfJSw3QEyT3WXTDALQ/s4032/IMG_8240.JPG) that you could view, which should be adequate to cater to a wide demographic. There were also some hands-on activities like creating your own nenedroid faces. I took about \~2 hours in this place.
\- [White Wall Warehouses](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivs0Wx1Hz610LnIbRZfXkc4acBpeXG65qC8sBimytcmkZsx99RaPAKEsDAIJolOU14S2PqO6Ebij9DEIQqV1iL2Cdi5Bfofxfd45G0ckulHqUJnRdw2unT-ghmTMtekRwJ9Emf0s4F4gU_Es6YDUH8UCN4X_Qo9ngRFW4p6o2rQSBAj-QDr2QUg0tcwkE/s4032/IMG_8530.JPG): as what the name implies, it’s a bunch of historic white-walled building. Its okay if you’re already in the vicinity, though I wouldn’t purposely make a dedicated stop for this. (\~10-20 minutes walking along the canals)
\- Kurayoshi Line Railway Memorial Hall: a small free museum showing the history of the now-defunct Kurayoshi railway line. I suppose the main draw is that you are able to [get up one of the old train replicas](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYPqsqzw4nKrrZvutUOhjJ9u4hkQVQQXU5CJuPX52ovXXmgbGyr-BzXOfsKl972XRbFyAxd9F-W88pJzXeSd2jaNa7MDgcCy4gwkwfXTisc8t5WMbH-L39OF7PLikQ79cqZ9GUXx2XhnNtcQMoo3ZX_mmf6fRFBL_F_TD-zcp6l8nocsMcfneEYfTv78/s4032/IMG_8588.JPG) similar to those at the Kyoto Railway museum. There’s also another SL replica outside of the memorial hall.
\- [Nijisseiki Pear Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhltiKqQr1bhaa0-6QuikCBFNcCtu4ySJIkjnVkyjpXGpMouIfVEVEaPvH85y7ttxCIfjBcYjPhWb0cm2ylqWwAXQ_jUg55MeOlIHERdc11Rd35Ll2Lm9jCUsDg0tthzBSVq5QG81FXm1mR5JCFHpxVa_7loqkkQCz_fW268WjWbL8CR4cRlzPWwo-3ix0/s4032/IMG_8621.JPG): a pear museum showcasing the history of pear cultivation in Tottori, as well as the various pear types around the world. You get to sample free pears, though I wanst able to do so because it was Kansai Culture Appreciation Day and admission was free, thus said samples were already gone by the time I visited. (\~1-1.5 hours)
Overall, a pretty enjoyable time in Kurayoshi. The figurine museum and the pear museum are the main highlights for me.
Returned to Misasa Onsen late afternoon. I spent the remainder of the day exploring the onsen town before dinner, and one particular interesting location was the [Misasa Violin Museum](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcdXYG3ly5go_3fvAK3ZNe70Dx0wHc47sHiHFORQTFSo3SLOH3V8IE5Ys108wsXHGiFfOG335XScb2UL5YDuUmhyphenhyphen1yCAgftdhhOmnrsPWh9yQAUJ14ZGmiI9PyCWCtrUCPEEgKLQ-Bt84Fra8QXAJce1pJuLKom5wIJZe7Zx9f-p3nDDO4heGCyOsH4E/s4032/IMG_8689.JPG), showcasing how violins are made and some history on violin-making. You could even test-run their violins with purchase of a drink (at \~400yen) though I declined since I couldn’t play it. I enjoyed spending the evening walking along Mitoku River and soaking at an [ashiyu](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNVxHeKGqz7lDQ6_C8RRYL6yIFWFtlc2TlHA8iuLwjv_LeIxuyWR0eX5nCpEtsfoivrAxRAUEj04aF-UB8DKhVpsdj8YRakWQ8_fZGNHMhpvN2lHLTZqJZAUoXeLmErl8lAxJuvnb_xNchyjIh5KnW4VAi01xapOmsp6IVcVeIv1glvWpWJmlB94L4qw/s4032/IMG_8770.JPG). There is an [open-air river onsen](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXZNp3WuKqYsiGuUzyieajMHciINqpqbbkhaFAtPuwGYE_Fnq7CWaoJMrUag0miKPfwILzgbdRIMRNKTCsSFPiBvJUFLVdqYNfQw8H1r4l80VzoANZJ3e1zLNA_i0W2Ey9bKeYkWPGH5jHeDkXLAfWKjE_eMwj8GNMsHhK8e8WgbSoJ0FR0TbnRpHSpU/s4032/IMG_8795.JPG) that is free to all, though I was too shy to do so.
**Day 16 – Tottori Sand Dunes, Tottori (Tottori), JR Amarube (Hyogo)**
Another [great breakfast](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_LOMbzR1uOC1vtu88bdFFvDHomBv6SP_aMv7gw2iRvyHeV_p6e0wda1pty4TjOpXTZgQeTp9zROkVrUPOlHe2AwoX8XYsltpPOPYpd5359vKqMcnbZhL4V6E6UTB7bwM3CDi5DVphmBvQiAyG9Gj9pDWmzKafQZYEkHMxl04r0arZr_RT5ncFDxEgb4g/s4032/IMG_8831.JPG) at the ryokan before checking out. As with most ryokans, they offered to drop me off at JR Kurayoshi so that I could catch my next train to next-door Tottori. After dropping my luggage at the hotel, I went straight to the sand dunes for a [paragliding session](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihYwPv3T8G5n79Atz-bgX4z6uoffIYia9Z0ybhOHTXyQHHrWHTQ7hbQiI17xqPLqvMorBu5XYa2Nv_7jq7d4e9O8uBx5GwKbE_Yyo0ox58RN2DAgcTuh95kmlADiJCrGwuNdPQUTATy9ood6fNH1gASFLQTXEZAZ0H9KsIryqKoYWYp9eY3_2o7rsDis/s4032/IMG_8900.JPG). Usually most people would associate the sand dunes with the museum (and rightfully so), but I was feeling a bit daring and decided to try something out of character. For 10k yen, you are taught the basic commands (left/right) and postures, landing/emergency drills before you get to do your paragliding attempts (4 in total, three solo attempts and one tandem with the instructor). Although not explicitly mentioned in the website, there was actually an English-speaking instructor that was present at all times so I do not think you need to worry if you can’t speak a lick of Japanese. All in all, a great way to view the dunes from above.
After that, I spent some time traversing along the [sand dunes](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTwZFBuCTUk1G4DMJe00CCDyiy7QZFrbs2oVzz33rWtOUGnkF18jqqUo8TzHOZJsqL2yLavwh2nz-8WQ59E5tSJ1KxHaeuN2eXaRLYI_dt7JtMH8tddeYiN6mVasbCm0TCylYXBCwZOv9sv_YuQHKOmy-FW-L4jRfosIV2_P7lTOQHj89x03dfWtZjWk0/s4032/IMG_8944.JPG) and visited the sand museum. It appears that the themes vary on a yearly basis and this year’s focus was on [Egypt](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghpQGI-W6EKabnpIKSZntDdfthYDgpGD10R6tNfKmDEPcaXi1Jwu13ZvDezXn8qaMq05mMMupYKMK6Qz3QLTJN2mMiL3EGmv9QYlbd7cv_pOXAcJw36ToDZqq0VSzlmxohFHKXVRGUgX1TeMIUYujxwUiHG_MvOK2kcONdgxhK_J00CNU-2f4aX1-JDzw/s4032/IMG_8994.JPG). I thought the level of detail on each of those sculptures was [pretty impressive](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitNuetYOFpxwLZE0_tSBt0YnR30cCG885tSsnIPmd2mg_nqFQbpugi5jWCkrtaS2OuEjtV6DYsltbo58TAbM8w9ZjOc_OlnqNCMjNGo_VaiftRq3KuTupOsyKztQ03N5XdiWtDjouL-4OhzXg6sLltrxFnRTf01wvGeiiu-z_HQl98fyU20pqiQ3ubBjw/s4032/IMG_9031.JPG). Lastly, I made a stop at [Amarube Station](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDS7PfIRTbd_-wxveqruPkgckmlVZ-1UDzSS0iy2-RX4Qnf4D3Cm5-2AJNkAX-2UjxQbTMRszg3e9PBwF9bnBUaIVMCDWYvSSmErvIIvfClZoju7kE39doI_K9gVsPgXiVxHdOZA7DkavIVf0bmnXYenWTvR0QEpiKitq4Q5OlqrlUOFrxYBZdj4I7fs4/s4032/IMG_9141.JPG) (or known as the ‘station in the sky’); while I cant say that I am a rail geek, I admire the [engineering design](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCps8m6bSDUs7keK3YCweIoWBkBm9K1corKwr8ZwY9O8MAkt5W6e4L3USwdbGrvUAC-WINk4QMd-0dJPqRni9Mb3bPprrwSHxCbL0nJrp6r8QIDlzM7wLqtWJwk_6npOePbA4aAf78jEJQYxdxBisqzrPCFSD3n8d9xtSy21KpTuJBS1vGPGp7nvvIsRU/s4032/IMG_9140.JPG) that has been in place since the 1910s. Getting to and from the station via JR was a pain though, with train frequency few and far in between, but I still felt it was worth spending an hour just exploring the area and taking some photos. Returned to Tottori for the night to retire at Green Hill Morris Tottori, which in my opinion is a great value-for-money business hotel at \~7.7k yen/night with decent rooms and good breakfast spread.
**Day 17 – Hakuto Shrine, Uradome Coast (Tottori), Kinosaki Onsen (Hyogo)**
**NOTE: Days 17 \~ 21 is covered by the Kansai Wide Area Pass for JR trains and Kyoto-Tango (for Amanohashidate).**
Started the morning with a subsidized sightseeing taxi at JR Tottori to bring me to some of the tourist hotspots such as [Hakuto Shrine](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSofHtcFI_PPkFJnIMgUaqFuTfWNxA8frcwi1hsJVk6y-N9KTLr0c9aoropFny9_r9-aMozkxAd0on8SwFIqbog0St12WNe8UEN0xBWTmRx9AWaVhxWYYTb1MB3P03p1E_a2DrMlfuIi4dfn5l1wTIHykR5Ne3oHkzri5gmUc_AujNtZFKrTeXdVahWk/s4032/IMG_9291.JPG) (with a heavy rabbit theming) and Uradome Coast(which was extremely windy/rainy on that day). For 3k yen, you get to have a taxi to bring you around based on the selected route of your choice, and the taxi driver would explain some background information of the place to you (mostly in Japanese, ymmv). These sightseeing taxis are a good way to get around places in Tottori especially if you rely on public transport. I do note that they operate on a first-come-first served basis (no reservations allowed), so it is a good idea to get there right after the tourism centre opens in the morning. The entire tour lasted for about 3 hours.
After that, I took the limited express Hamakaze over to [Kinosaki Onsen](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUKtevSrMwXL9Pn3CovkAN64snNB8pLJ03sNG751TVia4MRnXiyah87RqgF8-6eJ6iaACKSH1NAYJYCSgLFIl1XnB9cmT7vzG_tDxrcqs42XJGZBThZsa_i5rRKVwttQRVWmpdxr5vvWxoStSwfIbwA4NtgXwW3lIFmDINKzm6tWxmKC0UYbKroCu4rQ/s4032/IMG_9406.JPG). There are only two trains per day (one early in the morning, and another just after lunch) so its not a good idea to miss it. Although I arrived at the ryokan earlier than the check-in time, I was able to drop my luggage first to explore the town. After checking in, I was handed a onsen pass to try out the 7 public baths at no extra charge (its baked in as part of the accommodation cost). I managed to try out 4 of them, with the remaining 3 to be done the next day. I spent the [evening](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9HFB2T0DyfqhhnxT4uleoWAyKLRl3ylIAo1eQtT5Lxgli9UFORa4Zs_xmAteajJEgF7ft5hmnpqiQYs5_wb6tw8bo_ml15AuyhXZK7tPNNMcBHQWOGIwZm-AhDodmbObVcM7m94oD5TLJ4M7AfcHspgYYE4SiTamiLMkSBOIpzDlf-FE_6ATFLheJ8E/s4032/IMG_9476.JPG) and [night](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzHoBoqlWwD0XkExmdKQ_XbuhPZDTK1hDtHRA5w1t3SoU8krRm0IXzPx1OFTNrecggkfDCbECFjomTpu24RemE3dTZPHxWOto-uddnCf0ecldJB7zovpsMS9Hh7rIO5seAgSWxohrS0p2l7c1cJTxZNgDwt21f2xsyuU6MS5C-cRxCpSPdpqq7aJS5jc/s4032/IMG_9480.JPG) walking around town. My personal thoughts on Kinosaki Onsen as a whole is that while it is heavily geared to foreigners with English translations almost pervasive throughout the area, it manages to retain its own traditional identity rather well. Additionally, I feel that if one wishes to try out all 7 [public](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_IZvc-_E2iXuGi32oA3-LKcfR3XKJfzNiSd5m_MSkpGATGMDzkKFT5o1cEJ5HFUqYzJEA1Vj9qsdpFh1inHkX8U-6RgZJoi9Dw8N0DmaOmxEFWqw7hl7HutH-lTi_kNg-o9PzBZdz_Hg3q8mUr6gAtL67vLjRIdod4E1CTESDwTyt4TmybEWaR_IYBA/s4032/IMG_9509.JPG) baths in the area, spending at least 2 nights here is a good idea especially as 1 or 2 of them would be closed on a certain day during the week for maintenance.
Onto the ryokan for the next two nights – [Morizuya](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWk4wIEp0iaYMS250y4ZQzA58N7uUmdyOyc4ZJLPYrXAd7n9yTr2p9oom8L0gtxbmLBxYz7wyJx5b1CTyG2kiamRqUiV4U1JA2F85NUizVFKIkcrVSLGB-sm4wAGfpglOZYQh6K8UK7RyVQ5DCQei3GcIYcLYJKSWMmo8BwH9CZ7msUvSb8rOiQRFHdg/s4032/IMG_9412.JPG). The innkeeper is a cool middle-aged man with a good command of English and here, the otomenashi experience was great – with the little things such as offering to help take photos for personal keepsake, showing the various facilities within the building and the room. My room was on the third floor, and at first glance it looks like the run-of-the-mill traditional [ryokan room](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FNtjpnNhGBP0cH-Ii1Ho-e4cLSU-9hh07Rxq0ZwhYyOmRTWlwYb4_OwuSEfNm1z6hV0W1nd8FYEJTZESEqlZ5M-gGOcG-YuRsh1YWVJ0futKXD1HvQ8btdO07vTLBDireNou1OAv_DIEFVHLXPZUxQN3UqBviJ-48iAsZ2uGnnDfWTnRK_EoZNGEtvo/s4032/IMG_9453.JPG) with tatami mats. However, the balcony view from the room is the [million](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwxLKMXMPGk21DBV0Jo5BP-SP9bRgiGQGG2avoXkoLQkqHYVuLVB9njzlHnOe2Edv2-YarW8MgFgOInfyocgipP1VQJjdh7JBZgyG8bXkNeEI1w8zDTRTcM0K3T2hJTauexG3fAW6MQeVmEM3GG9K8Qi0C8VDYhkYGJiqWHEs-Cv6vDEUhg9iCycY-cs/s4032/IMG_9489.JPG) dollar view facing the main road that I don’t think I’ll ever forget. Dinner was served with [Tajima beef and crab legs](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBTUyFgw92o3Hcy5RR8S6HgkRHqdKOnn2Ju1TaihQt_ahSEV2y95clqZHjgUgasx6ox6-qJOqntZV4lLaF3FI_ViHAs3GV3AkwcmxOrnbRU8WqhDQxo8CdxBnDoD-HC07aJ1l_M3srEBeR2juO3URsxmM3LSDO4aXtjYURc-fKGhTBGRWeH67AgK3FKak/s4032/IMG_9492.JPG). I should mention that Morizuya is again one of those few ryokans that accept solo travellers, so kudos to them.
**Day 18 – Kinosaki Onsen (Hyogo), Amanohashidate (Kyoto)**
Decided to day-trip over to Amanohashidate via Kinosaki. [Breakfast](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSzJv9YuGmI6cXhmWiqB16RzEW1M-d1L8AO_-PhFRV_ERkOkpyFvlzBiCeTXhq1Ybh_csqJGArt37FEUSI0G33EWyEsM89Ud-v4GiWz_Yt48uxyai-eK0BQ-ILpvFM3svqfzptqOiAKbIL9CSeQOHD-YMWnRrEeglv_-9QXAnemJSl8YDm0WbUW2o4O9I/s4032/IMG_9538.JPG) at Morizuya was splendid. Getting over to Amanohashidate is not as straightforward as I needed to make a transfer at JR Toyooka via the Kyoto-Tango railway (covered by Kansai Wide Area Pass).
My day trip was as follow:
Amanohashidate at 0930 –> Bus to Ine to catch the boatride –> Return bus to Motoise Jinja –> Kasamatsu Park –> Nariaiji Temple –> Rent a bike and cycle across the sandbar to the other end –> Amanohashidate Viewland –> return to JR Amanohashidate
\- The [boat ride](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcmo9O7CuZwkQkRcTE_3v3IiBOhrowpF0su9yrXVNzf51xnStMwuHdhCcnfnTfh3Pf07B5MWhxvXIB-YoaJWWPmKE9k_715Y24E1PsXSer68uw7_0MXj4Iyj2276Ne4m68l6liRBix1S-jdG5kDtgh5ChCZXHpeevLO45HISMQVxnaeX5FAeS0r6rPns/s4032/IMG_9610.JPG) at Ine was alright, though it was nothing special overall. Seagulls are pretty aggressive so I think it’s a good idea not to bring any food stuff with you.
\- Having experienced both ends of Amanohashidate, Kasamatsu Park was definitely less crowded (since it wasn’t that readily accessible via public transport), though the view of the sandbar was about the same ([Kasamatsu Park](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigP5bakdaBWcweym5OnUOQVXI115GfAwjQe-2bV0rMWUg6lnTobbGi-rQwhFQeF7m6DT88dhH6IoS-AuYHi3IVyM0k5b5cLsMHDW3ACvnpb1BmTfZlXTpphuT5LnfTWITP94G0UzVWo1jTX2OpAmn7F8GXbroGhYw-_yONHeqr36H2b6pRsqFtPERwreY/s4032/IMG_9714.JPG) vs [Viewland](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8aFjBliZjYQH6SIJJal5xEMWaFcUwU9ADWnrfRtfOYK-idHqKS6P-zHfARb4eWKhiGmi06xjF6fixKmqjPBC45PH5eS7C-y5aPM0MHVIO53PJwppIwgl6ZY9oS-ynXSkLjqOAXFgiWvNiYXoKk7dLGZrpWOo_GqDvCyjRPG7sC1r4oMhT_EddCX5V2oE/s4032/IMG_9799.JPG)). IF you have time for just one, settling for Amanohashidate Viewland is adequate. Nariaiji Temple was not bad though and is probably worth the visit over to Kasamatsu Park.
\- There is a bike rental store near the sandbar entrance, with rentals at \~400yen for about \~2 hours. If you are not feeling well on that day you could also opt for a boat ride to get to the other end of the sandbar(iirc 600+ yen). Cycling across the sandbar took me about 30 minutes (with some stops along the way to take photos etc).
\- If your time is really limited dropping Ine is a necessary evil (since it takes almost an hour on bus to get there from JR Amanohashidate, one-way).
Returned to the ryokan for dinner – [great](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnoclvvNwciXqpmHUYzR5Wa_pa2TLBB3UMjo2fbyANQ0LQTyz8lEebjUACBbaoPqrBcnYtRCNC6ihNMlMFi8wi1xszYWmg7ayxSSCnoOlAKuppoIm7-d_zsW6tYQIm-pZoj2wL7zjiJ8C-nF2HlDfzttX_0khlwrIHcA12rgdNtfgMk174D8YDopBe7DU/s4032/IMG_9819.JPG) as usual. Additionally, I managed to try out the remaining public onsens.
\—
If you’re still reading, thanks for powering through! Due to word limit I cant post the Kobe/Osaka leg here, but I’ll add them in a separate post in the coming weeks.
by wardXn