# About Me
I’m a 25 y/o female traveller from Korea/Canada. I visit Japan 3-5x each year and wanted to share my itinerary/tips/recommendations. My most recent trip spanned a week in Barcelona (I’ll be writing a trip review for this soon!), then four weeks in Japan (Dec. 23 – Jan. 19). I will be returning to Japan again this week.
**Why Japan so often?** My best friend moved to Kyoto in 2018 and her brother is a Japanese citizen, which allows for me to get free accommodations. More importantly, I used to compete in a Japanese martial art and return every few months for events related to this.
I also majored in Japanese history with a specific interest in Japanese architecture. I haven’t seen as many pieces as I’d like, but I’m *really* into historical shrines/temples and pieces created by my favourite architects, so I don’t think I have great itinerary suggestions for those with kids or travellers who aren’t too big on shrines and temples.
I also unfortunately have very little food recommendations as my friend cooks at home and I am usually too busy seeing things to eat 🙁 I’m also gonna get slapped for this, but I’m not huge on Japanese food, either.
**Disclaimer:** I DO NOT suggest travelling like me. I had a dumb and crazy itinerary because it was (1) very last minute, (2) I had to be back before a Tokyo trip on Jan. 9, (3) I come back to Japan frequently enough to sacrifice bad days and do stupid planning here and there.
Overall, I took about 20-30k steps per day, every day, which was *extremely* hard on my body. It’s a terrible idea, don’t travel like me, but I’m writing this in case people wanted to know how a psychopath travels. And in case it wasn’t obvious, I don’t drive. I also do not take the Shinkansen because I am broke doing dumb things like this.
This post is also obviously very long and has a LOT of information. Please read whatever section is most relevant for you 🙂
**My current goal is to visit all 47 prefectures. 8 down, 39 to go!**
**Edit:** after further consideration, I’ve taken out my Tokyo/Kyoto/Osaka itinerary as I don’t have any unique recommendations. However, they will definitely come back when I write my **shrine megareview.** I actually finished this trip in Osaka after my friend accidentally locked me out but I didn’t do anything new or interesting there except for one temple.
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# Preface: MIE (October 2023) – Ise
I visited Japan in late October to catch a tournament, but decided to do an impromptu trip to Ise because it’s a really important place for me personally!
* **Ise Jingu**
* Ise is an iconic city in Mie for one of Shinto’s most important shrines—Ise Jingu. One of its most characteristic features is how the main shrine gets rebuilt every 20 years or so, an amazing way to preserve tradition in the essence of modernity. When I went, there were barely any foreign tourists but a *ton* of locals and still quite busy. Keep in mind that **the main sanctuary cannot be seen** due to its sacredness. You can catch a glimpse of the rooftop, but it is up to you to decide if that is worth it or not. The loop is pretty nice and there are other shrines that are visible, but the main structure is hidden.
* **Futamiokitama Jinja + Meoto Iwa (Wedded Rocks)**
* I was in Ise on Oct. 31 but the weather was extremely warm (I was in a t-shirt and sweating). However, the clear blue skies, the view of the blue sea, blue skies, the rocks, and the frog statues of Futamiokitama Jinja were stunning. The shores are really clean and neat and it makes for a serene, picturesque walk. You can take a bus that goes directly from Ise Jingu to the rocks.
* Ise was ultimately a day trip for me (from Kyoto) and I climbed Fushimi Inari afterwards in the evening. I don’t recommend doing both on the same day (clocked around 32k+ steps), but Ise can be a decent day trip if you wish. I’d like to spend more time here and do more things next time, so recommendations are always appreciated 😀
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# NATIONAL TRIP 2024
I know I’ve always wanted to visit all 47 prefectures, but I didn’t think I was going to start my ‘zenkoku tour’ (national tour) on such short notice. After spending New Years with my friend and her family, I made the impulsive decision to visit Izumo (my favourite city) and Hiroshima—and at that point I figured I could visit all the other prefectures as I headed up.
The biggest problem was that we had booked buses for a Tokyo trip on Jan. 9, which left me Jan. 2 – Jan. 8 to travel. Naturally, this meant I wasn’t going to be able to enjoy all prefectures extremely thoroughly, but I was intrigued by the idea and thought ‘fuck it, let’s roll.’
My friend was unfortunately working, so I was alone for this leg of my trip (Mie, too).
# SHIMANE – Izumo
* The night bus from Kyoto to Izumo takes around 8 hours, but if you are in Hiroshima, the bus is **only three hours** long. I can’t suggest people to go out of their way to visit Izumo from Kyoto or Tokyo, but if you’re in Hiroshima and are running out of things to do, **IT IS WORTH CONSIDERING.**
* Funnily enough, I have never been to Nara, but I’ve been to Izumo twice. You might see me commenting on this subreddit because I am basically free advertisement for the city of Izumo and always encourage people to go *especially* if they’re in Hiroshima or Okayama. I just really love everything here.
* Shimane is the second least populated prefecture in Japan, but it is home to one of the most iconic and important shrines for Shinto—**Izumo Taisha** (more officially known as Izumo Oyashiro). The giant *shimenawa* is beautiful, iconic, and is a personal favourite sight in Japan for me.
* Izumo is also, in my opinion, the *best* city to do a day trip. There are five main points of attractions you can do in a loop: Izumo Taisha, Inasa Beach, Hinomisaki Jinja, Hinomisaki Lighthouse, and eating 3-tiered soba (famous in Izumo).
* I have done a **(1) Hinomisaki Lighthouse → Hinomisaki Jinja → Inasa Beach → soba → Izumo Taisha** loop and I have also done a **(2) Izumo Taisha → Inasa Beach → soba (or soba then Inasa Beach) → Hinomisaki Lighthouse → Hinomisaki Jinja** loop.
* They both have their advantages and disadvantages. The biggest issues are that most soba places close at 2 PM(!) and buses in the countryside are *much* less frequent, so planning is essential. Most hotels are around the Izumoshi Station area, which is far from Izumo Taisha/Inasa Beach, which is very far from Hinomisaki, so bus times must be considered in advance if you want to make it to and back for any of the three locations.
* If you pick (1), you’ll have an excess amount of time at Hinomisaki assuming you take the first 7 am bus, but not a lot of time at Inasa Beach (most soba places close at 2 and are closer to the entrance of Izumo Taisha, around a 15 min walk, unless you want to go back and forth). I only pick (1) because I want to spend the most amount of time at Izumo Taisha (at the end of the day), without having to worry about bus times to Hinomisaki.
* If you pick (2), it is possible you won’t have time to climb the lighthouse depending on when the last bus is and might have to rush the lighthouse + Hinomisaki Jinja loop. YOU DO NOT WANT TO MISS THE LAST BUS AT HINOMISAKI as you will be stranded, but I ultimately recommend this route, depending on how much time you take to eat soba and see Inasa beach.
* **HINOMISAKI LIGHTHOUSE**
* On a bright blue day, it is beautiful in photos as the white contrasts harshly against the blue. You can also climb the inside of the lighthouse (not recommended for those with mobility issues, as the steps are narrow and deep, and the last part is essentially a ladder).
* Unfortunately when I went for the second time, it was grey and cloudy and the white did not contrast the sky effectively. On this note, **I do not recommend Izumo when it rains.** It is such a picturesque place, and the grey skies (while dramatic and moody!) isn’t how I’d recommend visiting for the first time. It didn’t dampen my love for it, but I think it might for other tourists.
* **HINOMISAKI JINJA**
* The path from Hinomisaki Lighthouse to Hinomisaki Jinja is beautiful and an awesome walk away from the chaos of Tokyo/Kyoto/Osaka. There’s also an island with a singular torii gate (Fumishima) that I believe is home to a protected(?) bird species. Overall, I’m a fan of the sea, the lighthouse, the pine trees, and the jagged rocks. Even on matsuri days, I find Izumo to be a really quiet, serene place away from the chaos of the trifecta cities and the lighthouse/jinja path is very peaceful.
* **IZUMO OYASHIRO**
* Personally, I think the *shimenawa* makes Izumo Taisha the most beautiful shrine I’ve ever seen, but I’m well aware I have weird tastes. There are two buildings, both with *shimenawa*. You’re not looking at the right one (especially if you enter through the ‘usual’ entrance/path) until it makes you say ‘what the fuck, that’s absolutely massive!’ It is usually a really quiet, almost deserted-feeling area, but during any matsuri time, it’s vibrant and busy and fun with your typical street vendors and people milling about.
Izumo as a whole I think will be a hit or miss for most people. If this is your first time in Japan, I’m not sure if I’d recommend it as it’s hard to access and *really* quiet. But if you’re a shrine freak or have the same, weird tastes as me, I highly recommend it. It’s my favourite city!
# HIROSHIMA – Hiroshima / Miyajima
* **ATOMIC BOMB MUSEUM/PARK/DOME**
* If you were confused like me, the museum/park/dome is in the same area (I thought you had to take the bus from the museum to the dome). The park is free, but the main museum has a small entrance fee.
* I’ve mentioned this on a different thread but **everyone should be deeply interested and deeply invested into what happened at Hiroshima,** especially with current world events. They have done a spectacular job in displaying the horrors of the bomb that was dropped on Hiroshima in 1945. Every time a world leader mentions the usage of nuclear arsenal, I am tempted to [stamp their shadows into the pavement of their favourite bank.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_Shadow_Etched_in_Stone) (The stairs have actually been cut out and can be seen as part of the exhibition at the museum.)
* But I digress. The park was also created by another one of my favourite architects of all time, Tange Kenzo. He and his team did a brilliant job making a park that is beautiful, solemn, but I think also hopeful—especially when I see kids run around and ring the bells that are erected throughout the park.
* **OKONOMIYAKI**
* If you can stomach everything you see in the museum (I’m as apathetic as can be and even I wanted to throw up), you might be in the mood for some delicious Hiroshima okonomiyaki! Funnily enough, the shops in the B1/B2 floors of Hiroshima Station actually have some great Hiroshima-styled okonomiyaki, which contain noodle bases instead of just standard batter.
* **MIYAJIMA**
* The newest contender for my favourite place after Izumo. Miyajima is a *gem* with all the deer (which I feel are less aggressive than Nara’s, at least on video) (you should still watch out for anything in your hands) and traditional things to do on the island.
* **ITSUKUSHIMA JINJA:** obviously the ‘big attraction’ in Hiroshima, with its iconic torii gate (no, not the one that stood after the bombing—that one is in Nagasaki). But for me, the most incredible part wasn’t the torii gate but Itsukushima Jinja in the dark, ‘floating’ on the water with the gentle glow of lanterns lighting up the complex. Out of the 65 shrines I have visited in Japan, Itsukushima Jinja in the dark has been my favourite.
* **DAISHOIN:** a really nice temple complex with a billion mini statues that were all wearing very cute hats when I visited in January. I really enjoyed it and the monks were really friendly. I have heard that there is a hiking trail here that goes to the summit of Mt. Misen but I did not go up (nor did I do the ropeway).
* **SENJOKAKU HALL:** a place that I don’t think is visited by tourists as often as Itsukushima Jinja. Right next to the pagoda, there’s a very old-looking hall. I personally love slightly dilapidated, ruin-feeling architectural pieces because of their history and general ambience, so Senjokaku Pavillion quickly became one of my favourite places of all time. The lack of doors and complete openness just looks and feels *amazing* and I think it looks gorgeous in photos. Plus, there are massive wooden rice scoopers everywhere which I thought were unique.
# OKAYAMA – Kurashiki / Okayama
I was greatly tempted to skip Okayama because I wasn’t really interested in anything while I was doing my research and I had very little time, but there’s a huge gap between Hiroshima and Hyogo and Okayama seemed like the most sensible place to go.
I was recommended Kurashiki by my friend’s brother, so that was my first pit stop.
* **KURASHIKI**
* Firstly, Google Maps suggests taking the Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Okayama (and then the local line down to Kurashiki). Maps often does not suggest non-Shinkansen routes for long distances. However, sites like [JapanTravel](https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/route/) (not affiliated with this subreddit… I think) have route options that avoid the Shinkansen. For a third of the price and double the time, you can take the local trains directly to Kurashiki.
* I do not recommend this if you have a lot of luggage or children, as seats were frequently unavailable and I had to stand for the entire 2.5 hours.
* I still mostly travel like a student (e.g. I want the cheapest option) so this tip is mostly for those who want to save a bit on transportation costs.
* Kurashiki… is interesting. It’s best known for the **Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter** and—you guessed it—*denim*. Apparently it’s a famous place to get tailored jeans if you’re into that! The Quarter is unique for its historical vibes (there are no visible power lines to keep the traditional feel) and its canal, but it also has a heavy Western influence, with the denim and the Ohara Art Museum. (This isn’t an ordinary art museum—it houses a Monet Water Lily and other pieces by artists like Signac and Picasso and Renoir and Gaugnin 💀). The contrast was a bit jarring, but I still enjoyed it.
* **ACHI JINJA:** a shrine near Kurashiki with—as usual—a million stairs. I honestly thought it was quite beautiful and they sell *really* pretty omamori/shrine-related goods.
* **OKAYAMA**
* **OKAYAMA KORAKUEN:** The Okayama garden is one of Japan’s most famous and iconic gardens. I’m sure it’s beautiful (e.g. during cherry blossom season), but I went in January when everything was brown and dead. Still, I think it’s a testament to the beauty of the garden that I still quite enjoyed myself and felt serene during the walk.
* **OKAYAMAJO:** If you had to ask me what **I would never do again** and what my **least favourite** activity in all of Japan was, I’d say Okayama Castle, right next to the garden. Like Osakajo, the interior of the castle has been completely gutted out to be a museum (carpets, bright lights, elevators, etc.). It doesn’t have a nice view of the city like Himejijo, it felt more like a museum for kids, and the only interesting part about it was that it’s completely black on the outside (contrasting Himeji’s white).
* **KIBITSU JINJA:** home to a famous corridor (looks cool, has a bit of an incline) and is overall a nice shrine, but it’s a bit out of the way and not close to much else.
* **HORUMON UDON:** if you like horumon (pork offal) like me, Okayama is apparently famous for the horumon udon. I can’t remember which I restaurant I went to, but the horumon yakiudon was definitely the highlight of my Okayama trip—it was delicious!
* **OVERALL,** it’s pretty clear I didn’t enjoy Okayama *that* much. However, it’s famous for Momotaro and (unsurprisingly) its peaches. If I ever go back to Okayama, it would be during peach season.
# HYOGO – Himeji / Kobe
* **HIMEJI**
* **HIMEJIJO:** after the disappointment that was Okayamajo (especially since it was the first Japanese castle I’d ever gone inside of), I had low hopes for Himejijo. However, I enjoyed the barren interior much more than the bright lights and carpets of Okayamajo. I’m sure Himejijo’s interior has gone through multiple revamps as wood doesn’t last very long, but one of my Japanese friends kept calling Osakajo and Okayamajo ‘FAKE CASTLE, FAKE CASTLE!’ and I think I understand why now, lol.
* Warning: **not recommended for those with mobility issues**. I’m used to steep stairs in Japan (especially in homes) but the stairs here are are *steep* and there are several flights of them to the top. Parents and kids and I were holding onto the railings for dear life). The view at the top of the castle is also magnificent. Most of all, Himejijo’s white exterior contrasting against a blue sky looks lovely in photos.
* With this being said, **the castle is empty**. I much prefer this to the carpeted floors and colourful walls of Okayamajo, but don’t come here expecting Buckingham Palace!
* **KOKOEN (Himeji Garden):** is right next to Himejijo and I loved the compact, busy garden more than Okayama Korakuen, which is more of an open field. There is a really famous spot to take a photo of Himejijo upside down in the reflection of one of the pools. There are also a ton of koi there! Overall a really gorgeous garden and I would definitely return.
* **MT. SHOSHA / ENGYOJI:** a lovely temple complex at the top of a mountain (you can take a gondola up). I wouldn’t say it’s a requirement to go, but it’s peaceful and serene. I personally *really* loved Jikido for similar reasons to Senjokaku Pavillion—all the doors were open when I went and made the temple feel so freeing and wide. I believe I visited every structure in the vicinity and I overall really loved it. Just think of a forest with old temples here and there (though the main complex is really pretty architecturally).
* **KOBE**
* Kobe was actually my final stop and a ‘celebration’ city for me, so all I really did was go to an onsen and eat kobe beef (I didn’t want to do sightseeing—just celebrate on ending a really fun, exhausting, and maddening trip). However, I did end up going to two shrines—Ikuta Jinja and Minatogawa Jinja, which I’ll write about on a separate post regarding shrines.
* **CHINATOWN:** one thing I *did* pass through though was Chinatown, and I absolutely adored the vibes there—busy, chaotic, but full of delicious Chinese food and bright streets.
* I didn’t get a chance to really look through Harbourland (it’s not an amusement park) but I personally find Kobe/Osaka a better combo than Kyoto/Osaka. Kyoto has way too much to do and I don’t think Osaka can hold a candle minus Doutonbori and Osakajo, but I think eating good food in Osaka and making it down to Kobe for its onsens, retro vibes, and shopping could be fun.
* Overall, a really fun city with awesome onsens, Kobe beef, and Chinese food!
# Final Thoughts
**Warning:** I can’t stress this enough, but please do not travel like me. If you want to take this *route* (which I highly recommend), I would double the time at *minimum*. I was often in two cities every day and clearly couldn’t take my time to rest and ‘soak things in’. Also, 30k+ steps every day, even as a solo traveller in her mid-twenties did a number on my body. Plan accordingly and you must bring good, broken-in shoes.
**Cost:** I don’t have a receipt but this route (especially without the Shinkansen and capsule hotels) was actually not very expensive at all, considering how most of the trip was filled with temples and had very little entrance fees. The only place I splurged was in Kobe, where I got myself a nice hotel, a nice onsen, and a nice Kobe beef dinner for surviving this insane trip. (10/10, *highly* recommend ending a crazy trip like this).
**Thank you!:** Not to get too personal here, but as someone who always doubts herself and has little confidence, travelling alone and purposely putting myself into (literally) unfamiliar territory, completing an insane itinerary, and spending time alone with my thoughts really taught me a lot about myself. My Japanese also improved a ton and I was so proud of myself for not only finishing the itinerary, but *enjoying* this whirlwind trip. I know people are going to read this and think I was crazy and, ‘why would you want to rush through Japan?’ and I totally agree—but it brought me so much joy and fond memories. I think I’m the type of person who finds a certain joy and romance in doing crazy things for the smallest reasons. (E.g. I will travel to Ise/Hiroshima again just to finish my goshuincho).
I know no one I met during my trip will be reading this but I am so grateful to all the people who I met and helped me along the way. The nice ladies at the onsen in Hiroshima who gave me recommendations and applauded me for travelling alone, the kind person at one of my favourite temples who gave me premium cookies and a kappa LOL, the girl who gave her own gachapon character because she knew I was rolling for it, and everyone else who was so nice to me—it really made this trip extra special.
**The prefectures and I:** every prefecture has its unique flare (which is what makes travelling across Japan so fun), but if I had to choose, I’d rank Shimane (Izumo) as #1 for its incredible day trip loop, #2 Hiroshoma though I felt 50/50 about the city, Itsukushima really *was* a gem, and #3 Hyogo for all the fun that Himeji and Kobe alone can bring. Ise is a really iconic place for me personally, but I’m not sure how first-time tourists would find it. Okayama/Tokyo/Kyoto/Osaka were meh but I know that’s a really unpopular opinion.
**TBA:** I’ll be returning this week (up next: Nagoya, and a revisit to Hiroshima/Hyogo/Tokyo/Osaka/Kyoto!), but the next part of this ‘national tour’ will begin in Kagoshima in December, and I’ll likely work my way around the Kyushu region. If you want to enjoy more shenanigans and insanity, I don’t really have social media but uh… stay tuned?
I’ll also be making **a guide on goshuin/goshuincho** and **all the shrines I’ve visited** in the near future 🙂
Thanks for reading, and I hope everyone enjoys their time in Japan!
by kmrbtravel