Just came back yesterday from my 12 days solo trip in Kyushu. The plan was listed [here](https://old.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/1bgbpej/itinerary_check_12_days_solo_in_kyushu/).
Most of the things listed in the itinerary were accomplished except for the time in Beppu. I didn’t go to Beppu, the plan was originally to visit Beppu on the day after the earthquake happened on the Bungo channel, but I decided to skip Beppu in fear that a similar followup earthquake might happen and decided to go to Fukuoka one day earlier.
**General thoughts:**
– Kyushu is so much better with IC cards than [Hokkaido](https://old.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/177vzxy/trip_report_solo_trip_to_hokkaido_trip_from_oct/). I kept using it for various things, especially traveling on buses/trams/subways (except Kagoshima).
– Also got the JR Kyushu 7 days pass. With the amount of Shinkansen I took it’s a pretty good deal, even though I didn’t use the full 7 days. Seat reservations from the machines work as intended. But the only ticket I couldn’t reserve was from Kumamoto to Aso. That one probably needed to get booked early.
– The earthquake happened while I was in Kumamoto. I felt my bed shake and it was squeaking while the tremor happened, but nothing major happened when it’s through. The phone’s system (I use Android) sent out an alert a few seconds before the quake actually happened, then the NHK world app went off. It recorded in Kumamoto as a 3. I just continued to lay in bed while it happened (though I was awake and watching my phone). There’s supposedly a smaller quake after the big one but I didn’t feel anything.
– There’s just a lot of stairs all over Japan, especially train and subway stations. I’m not exactly young anymore so sometimes I just opted for buses instead, if the destination was accessible. Also carrying luggage while walking up/down stairs is not fun.
– Google map is once again my friend. Though one thing I should’ve done was to also check the restaurant’s opening days on top of hours when I was planning as I missed 2 restaurants as a result.
– I know Japan is pretty big on conservation and the environment but I really wish their toilet papers are made of sterner stuff.
– There’s still some sakura flowers in bloom, even though I am supposedly arriving a bit late than sakura season. Also, it was after the Easter holiday, so technically it’s a slightly lull time period for traveling.
– I felt this is more of a ‘best of Kyushu’ trip that tried to hit all the big spots in the region, but I had fun, so it was worth it.
**Day 1**
– Shin Shin was okay. I kinda expected more, probably a stronger taste of tonkotsu ramen. Most ramen places I usually just order the regular one and eat it as-is to get the “original flavor”. I kinda wish it’s stronger.
– The hotel I stayed in was Hotel Oriental Express Fukuoka Tenjin. Location wise it’s a little to the north of the whole Tenjin region but still very close to the Tenjin subway station. The room was good, though it doesn’t have its own restaurant, and breakfast is done at a restaurant nearby, though the [reviews seem good](https://maps.app.goo.gl/nJjKLyi332MDC5d19) (didn’t eat there).
**Day 2**
– I ate breakfast at [Bills Fukuoka](https://maps.app.goo.gl/xRNQ6Fc6U6a3AzcM8). Made a reservation on Google but it’s not required as there were still empty seats at 9am. The famous pancake does need around 15 minutes though.
– Walked to Kushida shrine from Bills. It was worth visiting, especially for the festival Yamakasa being quite impressive (be sure to check out both sides of this thing).
– Canal City was also nearby but I’m not as impressed, except for the fountain water show at the hour. For the anime fans there’s a Jump store at the ground floor. It’s still morning so maybe there’s not many people there, but it’s quite empty.
– For lunch I instead ate at [Hakata Mizutaki Hamadaya Kouten](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Dvfv4DgeorPizff67), recommended by YouTuber Solo Travel Japan (either him or Solo Solo, I forgot), turns out this is the only store in the group that opens for lunch. Loved the chicken pot there, though I made a wrong turn and went to the Kitte mall first, and Kitte is not connected to the Amu plaza. So that was a bit of an adventure.
– Maizaru and Ohori parks were really nice places (especially the former for sakura viewing), though Ohori park is actually quite crowded even though it was a weekday. For the Fukuoka art museum, the fee was pretty cheap to get into the exhibits. There’s more on modern art versus classical art but some of the modern ones look pretty impressive, though some are just weird.
– At this point in time I realize that I’ve planned almost half a day in these parks and by the 3rd hour I’m pretty much walked through all of them. It was like 4pm and I had nothing to do – I kind of wanted to find a shopping mall nearby to hang out and there’s really none unless I take the subway to Tenjin (at least rest in my hotel) or the bus to Fukuoka Tower. I opted for the worst choice – dallying around the park area while waiting for the Yatai in Nagahama I planned to visit to open. Though I did check out this [supermarket nearby](https://maps.app.goo.gl/s5rvQfzpHrWgbPdu6) that also has a value store and bought something there.
– Dinner at [Yatai no Tamachan Bekkan](https://maps.app.goo.gl/NjRhwDjGgfdpnWe49). It was introduced by a Taiwanese YouTuber TommyTommy. Firstly, the food here was definitely good – recommend the fried ramen. But that day’s crowd for a Yatai was pretty damn quiet because nobody there was chatty enough except for a Japanese couple and everyone else is a tourist who don’t/can’t really talk to each other. So I kinda feel the owner in a way, and if nobody is talking in a Yatai then it kinda lost some of its charm. Also Nagahama is a little bit off from the main Yatai area (Tenjin/Nakasu), and unless you want to walk, there is a bus that can take you back to Tenjin/Hakata area (#68 I believe).
**Day 3**
– Took the Nishitetsu ticket package to Yanagawa and Daizaifu. The package also includes the punting tour in Yanagawa, where the punting tour company also has a shuttle bus to the dock. Just take this package (3340 yen) and no need to worry about anything else if you ask me. You just show the ticket to the staff at the gate, and when you leave they’ll tear off the part of the ticket you’re visiting. Though you can’t buy it one day in advance.
– Morning was in Yanagawa. As said, the ticket also includes the punting tour, so I just went directly for it. The tour takes about an hour-ish and the guide also can speak English decently while also singing local songs in Japanese and also other regions (ours sang one in Korean and Mandarin). It was fun. But do note the boat actually takes you to another corner of the town, and you need to take their shuttle to either go back to the station, or their dock.
– I got off at the dock first because I wanted to eat the boxed steam eel rice at [Ganso Motoyoshiya](https://maps.app.goo.gl/M5xYp4bttYesPuJM7). The restaurant is kinda hidden amongst streets of housing but just follow the map and you’re good. It’s a traditional Japanese setup and it was one of the better meals I’ve had in the trip. Besides the steamed eel rice is a specialty in the area anyway.
– Took the train to Daizaifu – you need to change trains once. The area outside the temple has lots of stores selling treats and souvenirs.
– I went to the Kyushu national museum first. It’s a gigantic building that has lots of open space indoors, and there’s only 1 main hall for me to visit then (also you need to take a long way up via escalators). But that main hall has an impressive number of artifacts that basically gives you a historical tour from Japan even from ancient area. And the special exhibit (a room inside the hall) was Japanese katana which was also impressive.
– Not so impressive is Daizaifu which was under renovation and instead we get a modern looking stage that acts as the shrine. It kinda takes away the charm unfortunately. I have no idea when they’re done renovating.
– Dinner is really late for this day so I checked out Amu Plaza and Kitte mall. For Kitte mall, it has a Uniqlo, HMV books and a Surugaya. Amu plaza was a bit bigger and a bit more high class (though not as high class as the Hankyu department store also at the station). Also got my JR Kyushu pass here, intending to use it later after buying it via Klook.
– Dinner was at [Offal Pot ROCCASHA](https://maps.app.goo.gl/aRknSAr9Y4AQMeSo9), 9PM (though I went at 8:30). It’s a Fukuoka specialty so I had to try it (also this was introduced by TommyTommyJapan). This I really want to recommend, probably had the best meal there but it’s definitely better for groups, I think. Still, if you want to eat there, you MUST book it. Very unlikely that you can get a seat in here without booking.
**Day 4**
– I bought the [Fukuoka wide area pass](https://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/railpass/mobilepass.html) for this day from Klook. Now it’s an e-ticket instead of an actual ticket and it allows you to take all of the JR trains within the Fukuoka region, but this excludes the Shinkansen from Hakata to Kokura, because that is operated by JR West and not JR Kyushu. It is a two day pass, but I only needed it for today. Still for 3500 yen, I think it’s a good deal (at least we don’t need to go thru the ticket machines with this).
– Went to Mojiko first but actually the first thing was to take the ferry from Mojiko to Shimonoseki. But anyway, for the train part it was Hakata to Kokura via Sonic, then Kokura to Mojiko via local. I’ll talk about Mojiko later. For the ferry, it’s just a couple minutes from the train station.
– In Shimonoseki I checked out the Karato market first. It was definitely worth visiting, the shops putting out sushi and you just point to what you’d want, then you take the sushi outside the market and face the strait while enjoying the food. Also you might want to check out the puffer fish sashimi, though I personally feel that it’s more of an acquired taste.
– From the market you can walk to the Shimonoseki treaty museum. The city’s the place where the treaty was signed by China (then the Qing dynasty) and Japan. Pretty historic place, and it won’t take much time.
– Also checked out the aquarium across the market. The focus here is on the puffer fish and you get to see quite a few of them swimming around. Also has penguins, and I think a dolphin show though I didn’t see that.
– Also wanted to mention that the ferry across this strait also has a different ferry to Ganryujima, which was the island where Miyamoto Musashi fought Sasaki Kojiro. I didn’t take that because I didn’t realize that island was here.
– Back to Mojiko and ate baked curry there. It’s not bad, though as it’s pretty popular, expect to get in line for the most popular one. I ate at [Princess Phi Phi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/QDBPjP8xeDXQwsXD9), though [Curry Honpo Mojiko Retro](https://maps.app.goo.gl/zd8A8QmKHGmi48zZ6) was definitely more popular.
– Speaking of Mojiko Retro, it’s quite underwhelming. The most impressive was the pedestrian drawbridge, which opens a few times a day. But there’s like…3-4 buildings mostly built in red bricks, renewed or rebuilt that can really be defined as retro-looking not including the station. And they’re not all placed together, so it’s a bit of a mix of new and old in here. Maybe someone else would like this place more, but I wasn’t too impressed.
– Went back to Kokura for the Kokura castle. I liked it, though like most castles in Japan the outside is traditional but inside is basically a museum. Still, the first floor has some interactive stuff that one might enjoy but they’re all in Japanese, unfortunately. Most exhibits inside are also in Japanese and they rely on you to scan the QR code to get the non-Japanese descriptions.
– Went to Aruaru city for the Kitakyushu manga museum and some otaku stuff. It’s just a walk via a corridor from JR Kokura station, so quite accessible. The shopping center has lots of second hand anime stuff there.
– Dinner was just some western restaurant in JR Kokura’s shopping center. Nothing special.
**Day 5**
– Toughest leg of the trip, first day of the JR pass. Took a very early train to Sasebo. The goal is to take the 99 islands cruise, but there’s only an hourly bus that’s only a few minutes after getting off from the train. As I have luggage with me and I needed to use a coin locker in the station, I missed the bus because I didn’t find the coin lockers in time (they are to the left of where you exit from the ticket gate). Had to take a taxi to get to the cruise port area as a result. The taxi driver was friendly and also tried to engage in discussion but there was an unfortunate language barrier.
– Also this day was also a US Navy open day. A big line was formed outside that area, and I asked the taxi driver what it is.
– For the 99 island cruise, I liked it. Takes about 45-ish minutes, and there’s a recorded description in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean as the boat moves along. Get on the deck of the boat and there’s ample viewing angles, it even has a lookout that you can climb on. The dock also has some restaurants and an aquarium, but I was just there for the cruise, so I took the bus back to Sasebo after.
– Sasebo burger was a specialty of the city, so I definitely had to check it out. The biggest name was probably Big Man, but there’s a line, and there’s not much seating plus I’ve read reviews that food takes a long time to come, so I checked out [Sasebo C & B Burgers](https://maps.app.goo.gl/FWfdusNNN5vondi48) instead. Simply put, best burger I’ve had in a long time.
– Wanted to check out the Matsura train line because it cuts across Sasebo to JR Sasebo station and it looks like it’s abandoned, but trains come about once in an hour or so, so I just checked out the station and left.
– Took the local train froM Sasebo to Nagasaki via JR and boy it’s way more packed than I expected. There’s some views of the sea en route to Nagasaki.
– For Nagasaki, the JR station looks very new, though the main street outside are getting renovated. The hotel I stayed in, Hotel Cuore was also getting renovated, unfortunately.
– Went to the Atomic Bomb museum, peace park and hypocenter. Definitely memorable places, especially the museum.
– Went from there to Mount Inasa. Took the tram and changed to bus #5 to get to the mountain, though I know there’s a ropeway that takes you to the observatory, this feels like a better method and more accessible. Since the bus stop is relatively close to the observatory.
– Mount Inasa is awesome, and there is a crowd, but not as packed as Mount Hakodate. This also means I had visited 3 of the top 3 night views in Japan. Inasa, Hakodate, and Moya.
– Stayed a bit too long for my champon dinner at [Daihachi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/MEArzJbD8rgAt7DHA) and ate Turkish rice at some restaurant inside JR Nagasaki station.
**Day 6**
– Gunkanjima tour. [I took this one](https://www.gunkan-jima.net/en/) and they had a Chinese guide (iirc Chinese on odd days and English on even days, refer to the site). Definitely worth a visit, and if you can, just follow the Chinese/English guide if you can get on the island. Their group work separately from the Japanese ones, so it’s not as packed. Also protip, sit on the right side of the boat.
– Lunch was at [Yossou](https://maps.app.goo.gl/2y2Zgn2y73kkBEGz8), most famous for their chawanmushi. It’s filled with all kinds of different things inside and the egg is really smooth. Recommended, though I didn’t need to wait as a solo traveler, I feel that you might need to line up a little if you come in groups.
– Megane bridge was like a 15 minute visit for me.
– Glover garden was a nice place to stroll around in. Via tram, I got off at the last station instead of the one they recommended. This one has elevators that take you to the rear entrance, which basically means you’re walking downhill instead of uphill, so better on my knees, at least. The views are not bad, though there’s a couple buildings in renovation.
– Had a bit of time left, so I went to Chinatown (very not impressed – just a block basically, most shops closed). Also went to Dejima, which is a recreation of a past area in the city. I liked that a little bit more.
– Went to Daihachi before realizing it’s freaking closed. Still determined that I need to eat my champon, I ate in [ちゃんぽん 蘇州林](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Vi3qUKo2NLhYVdvN9). It was okay.
– Went by train to Kumamoto from Nagasaki. Took the Shinkansen to Takeo, then express to Shin Tosu (a very empty station that’s basically built for the Shinkansen), then Shinkansen to Kumamoto.
– Stayed at Dormy Inn Kumamoto. Didn’t stay around the JR station because the bus terminal is next to the hotel. Also Dormy Inn slaps hard. Free onsen, popisicles, shoyu ramen for a late night snack, multiple laundry machines with a status indicator that you can view from your room’s TV? I’m going to seek out Dormy Inn the next time I visit Japan.
**Day 7**
– Now a slow day here to check out Kumamoto proper. Suizenji is a great place to visit. Love the little mount Fuji replica they made, as you walk around the park, the angles you see changes and the scene is a little different (obviously). I liked it.
– Also walked towards the Luffy statue once I’m done with the Suizenji. You can also buy a mini replica at the Lawson in the basement floor of the government building behind. The nice lady at the Lawson said that I can also get a card of Luffy somehow but the direction she pointed me at made me lost a bit so I dropped that idea.
– Wanted to eat ramen at [熊本拉麺 豚美](https://maps.app.goo.gl/FWk3bxruPM7M6xZV7) but turns out it’s not open that day, thankfully before I decided to walk all the way back there. Instead took the bus since I wanted to go to Kumamoto castle after, so I got off at the city hall, and ate at [Keika Ramen](https://maps.app.goo.gl/DERREQzBBkG8gTMj9). Best damn ramen I had in the trip, though Kumamoto ramen is very heavy in garlic.
– Also take the elevator to the city hall’s 14th floor for a view of Kumamoto castle.
– It was raining hard and I didn’t have an umbrella so I went back to the hotel to repack my stuff and bring out an umbrella at around 4pm. Took the tram, and then walked to the Sakura no baba Josaien first for the ticket. The ticket center’s closed. I panicked a little, but still moved on towards the castle. Turns out the castle closes at 5pm, but I can still purchase the ticket right outside. Also it’s just me, but the Josaien felt very tourist-trappy and I didn’t spend any time aside from wondering why I can’t purchase tickets.
– Kumamoto castle area is mostly rebuilt and you’re on a specially built walkway towards the castle instead of walking at ground level. Clearly the earthquake’s damage is not fully recovered with the walls, but the castle is now reinforced and renewed. Outside, it looked awesome in black. Inside it’s also a museum basically, and it also shows you the past history. But with limited time, I had to speedrun the castle.
– Dinner at [Katsuretsu Tei Shinshigai](https://maps.app.goo.gl/LXQovrFSb6EjEkBY8). I expected more people there, but I didn’t really needed to wait. The tonkatsu was great and the pork was flavorful.
**Day 8**
– Thanks to the location of the hotel I can just walk across the street to take the long distance bus to Takachiho. It takes around 3 hours (including a break midway). I booked for the bus via Willer Express.
– Had lunch in [Nagomi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/GbESD6BYpN83c7357), they cook the steak a bit and let you do the rest by cooking it on a piece of hot stone. The beef is delicious. If I could, I should’ve ordered for the A5 wagyu instead, but it was still great.
– Takachiho gorge is a little bit out there and takes about 30 minutes for you to walk from town. There’s a lot of downhill walking towards the gorge, and the walk back, and it is a little tiring. There is a bus but it doesn’t take you to the gorge, only about halfway. The gorge itself is…gorgeous (har har). There is supposed to be a boat ride but it was closed the day I got there. Still there’s a few viewing angles for the gorge, so do spend a bit of time there (because the uphill walk with those hairpin turns on the way back definitely did my knee).
– I still had a bit of time, so I checked on what to do before the return bus arrives. I saw the [Amaterasu Railway](https://maps.app.goo.gl/vgqD3MP2LnnyS1tp6) on Google map and the reviews say it’s a 30 minute ride, so I walked there (more uphill!). I also saw that they have a museum which I asked about but the lady there doesn’t seem to want me to get that ticket, so I only took the mini-train. The ride was 2000 yen and was definitely a bit more geared towards kids, and the conductor only explains things in Japanese, but it was a fun ride. I took the last train at 3pm.
– After taking the bus back to Kumamoto I ate at a sushi joint because Kumamoto’s horse meat sashimi is a thing. Its taste is a little strong, but at least I tried it, I suppose.
**Day 9**
– Day trip to Kagoshima. Wanted to get the one day pass, but the tourist center lady suggested that I get the “cute pass” which also includes the ferry and buses on Sakurajima, so I bought that for 1200 yen. Note that Kagoshima has its own IC card and doesn’t accept others, so you can’t use your Suica/Icoca/whatever there.
– Took the tourist bus to Sengan-an. Also ate lunch there. It has a full view of Sakurajima, and you can also buy a ticket to the main building inside the park (I bought it as a combo). Can probably spend around 2+ hours there.
– Then went to Sakurajima after, also via the tourist bus. I mostly went to the Yunohira observation deck, which offers a view of the mountain and back to the city. Do check out the bus schedule, even though they stay there for an extended time, because there’s little to do on the observation deck.
– Dinner I ate at Kagoshima as well, as I craved for some tempura I went to [Nakamura](https://maps.app.goo.gl/2bdcaDkvfHSfUZ646) in Amu plaza Kagoshima.
– That night I experienced the earthquake after I went back to Kumamoto (see above).
**Day 10**
– This day is supposed to be leaving for Aso, then Beppu. In the end, I only visited Aso, and changed plans to head back to Fukuoka via Kumamoto after.
– For mount Aso, taking the bus up there is a must unless you have a car, but first do make a stop at Kusasenri regardless. The volcano museum while worth having a look (very educational however everything is in Japanese). It’ll tell you the volcano’s level on that day, though you obviously can check out the website. If it’s at level 2 or above, going further down the road or to the bus’ last station near the top doesn’t make a lot of sense because you won’t get to see the volcano unless you choose to wait for the helicopter.
– But Kusasenri itself is a nice place to check out. It offers a viewing of the volcano which is constantly spewing smoke. It’s also a big flat piece of grassland that you don’t get to see often, I suppose. There’s also a horse ride, but it’s a 5 minute ride and it’s guided. I don’t think it’s worth checking out.
– I had lunch there, but it’s not really anything special.
– After my trip at Aso I hastily booked a hotel in Fukuoka near Hakata station and worked my way back to Kumamoto via local train, then to Fukuoka via Shinkansen.
– Had dinner at Ichiran. It’s good, though at the same time…it is kinda the McDonald’s of ramen?
– Checked out the Yatai at Nakasu. Definitely THE Yatai area to go to, though I didn’t eat there, just walked alongside the Yatai stalls.
– The hastily booked hotel was [Nest Hotel Hakata Station](https://maps.app.goo.gl/UK4oKGaaoGXc4qmWA). It’s kinda no frills, but I liked it enough that I wouldn’t mind staying here again.
**Day 11**
– This day is supposed to be in Beppu, but now that I’m in Fukuoka, might as well check out some places and make use of my last day of JR pass.
– So I decided to head to Uminonakamichi. It’s a giant park, plus an aquarium. I checked out the aquarium first – it’s definitely one of the better ones (most impressive one was the one in Okinawa) I’ve been to. There’s so many interactive stuff that you can do in there. Also the restaurant also offers you a view of the dolphin tank. I enjoyed my time there.
– For Uminonakamichi proper it’s way too big to walk on foot. Maybe if I rented a bicycle (which I suck at), it’s easier to traverse. One thing I definitely do want to recommend is the flower field. It’s an impressive sight and is also where most people in the park go to.
– Had an early dinner at [Hakata Issou](https://maps.app.goo.gl/wRBGW81A3JEMix976). It’s between Shin Shin and Ichiran when it comes to how strong the taste is, though initially there is a slightly pungent smell in the ramen. It is delicious however. Maybe it’s because I ate it earlier than most people at 5pm-ish, but there were open seats.
– Bought souvenirs in Hankyu and Hakata station.
– Hotel was across the street basically from yesterday, in [Hakata Tokyu REI Hotel](https://maps.app.goo.gl/GDxj4gFUVmMNR4rZ6). If you ask me I prefer Nest Hotel (and Oriental Tenjin) over it.
**Day 12**
– Basically just heading straight for the airport after breakfast in hotel. If I didn’t mention before, the proximity of the airport to the city is very nice. Just two stations to/from Hakata, and 4 stations to/from Tenjin.
– One thing I didn’t like about the airport is the split of domestic and international, and it’s connected via a shuttle bus. I hope it gets better in the future.
And that’s all! Hope this helps anyone going to Kyushu in the future.
by penpen35
