Short Version:
Me and my partner always rate our stays abroad. I think our final ratings say it all.
Japan
1. 8.5. (Food&Drink)
2. 9. (Views/Surroundings)
3. 9.5. (People)
4. 8.75. (Attractions)
5. 8.75. (Wow factor)
6. 9. (my enjoyment)
7. 9. (partners enjoyment)
total: 62.5/70
Our previous high scorer was Italy, with a 60/70. So Japan leads our league table of 22 nations.
Long Version:
First of all, Japan is amazing. My 22nd and by far my favourite country. Also, first time out of Europe (with the possible exemption of Turkey) so this may help less experienced/UK travellers particularly.
Day 1: Flew from Heathrow with Etihad, with a 2 hour stopover in Abu Dhabi. Flights were about £900pp once we selected seats together. Etihad planes and food were nice by my inexperienced standards (only flown ryanair before) but the staff were strangely passive aggressive at all times.
Anyway, after 20+ hours of travel and finally landing in Osaka my partner had been physically sick (who knows why) and my eyes got super sore and irritated from the aircon which wasn’t great.
We landed in Osaka around midday and collected our JR passes (Hiroshima wide pass, seemed best value for money, planned to activate later in the trip), added money to our suica cards (travel cards you can just use on iphone dead easily on the wallet) and took the train to our hotel.
After essentially collapsing at the hotel we woke up at night and walked 15 minutes to see Osaka castle all lit up. It was pretty awesome even in the dark and rain. Also got some eye drops from a chemist which was great. Don’t speak any Japanese but google translate made it easy enough.
Day 2: This time we went to Osaka castle in the day. At this point we were pretty amazed by everything, even a signpost in Japanese or a small bridge, so Osaka castle in daylight, full of in bloom cherry trees was amazing.
That evening we visited Dontobori, which is really how I imagined modern Japan. Drank several beers (Sapporo, Asahi, Suntory, Yebisu, Kirin, in order of my favourite lagers) and ate the octopus balls they have. Wasn’t for me but I like trying different things. Class evening.
Day 3: Universal studios. Mainly went for my partner, albeit I was interested in mario world. Have to say, it wasn’t great. Crazy busy, with more gift shops than rides (several closed that day). Mario lands aesthetic was great but it was small and lacking substance. Toadstool cafe had good food tho.
Day 4: We left Osaka heading to Hiroshima via Himeji. We sent our luggage ahead of us through our hotel which was great, made exploring so much easier and wasn’t too expensive (2ish thousand yen?). Arrived via bullet train at Himeji around ten. Himeji castle is f****g fantastic. And it wasn’t even busy. Insanely beautiful, fully in bloom blossom trees, I loved walking through the castle and gardens, even the tickets and brochures were awesome. 10/10 experience. We then went to Engyoji Temple on the bus from the castle. Here’s a tip. Board the bus in the middle, pay using Suica as you exit at the FRONT. Took the ropeway up to the temples and took a 15 min small hike to the temple complex. First temples in Japan and I was mesmerised. Seeing the temples used in the Last Samurai was awesome. Arrived in Hiroshima late and chilled.
Day 5: Immediate day trip to Miyajima. Got there really early using the JR Ferry (our 5 day JR pass now activated). Loved the deers everywhere and the shopping arcade is great. Hiked up the Daisho-In trail. The temples and little stops are great. Took an hour. Only blip was persuading my partner to keep going having seen the multiple signs warning about snakes. Busy at the top near the observatory but our route was so quiet. Took the rope way back down. 10/10 day trip.
Day 6: Visited Shukkei en Garden in the morning. Was great. So peaceful and we ate lunch at the cafe. Was giggled at for my terrible control of chopsticks but that’s fair enough. Then visited peace memorial museums and parks. Park was cool but museum was far, far too overcrowded and people (other tourists) were too loud. Didn’t really match the tone for me.
Day 7: Left Hiroshima via bullet train for Kyoto. JR pass only covered to Shin-Osaka from there I used SmartEX to stay on the same train straight to Kyoto station. Stayed near Nijo castle. Went straight out to Nishiki Market and explored the downtown. Could’ve been bad timing but it was so busy and hot (for us used to rain and cold) that we didn’t really enjoy it. Had a great meal at a place where we cooked our own stuff on an open flame that evening tho.
Day 8: Day trip for Nara to use our JR Pass as it was the last day it’d work. Went to Fushimi Inari at 7am en route. Even at this time it was busy and the constant photo taking I found jarring. Higher up was much better once the crowds thinned as was the differing descent route. Continued to Nara after on the same train line. Nara was amazing. Loved the temples (Kofuku-Ji, Todai-Ji, Kasuga Taisha). Feeding the deers was fantastic. Loads of great places to eat.
Day 9: Visited Arashiyama bamboo forest. It wasn’t that busy, but it simply isn’t a forest. It’s like the quarter of a football (soccer) pitch at best. Walked over to the monkey park and fed them which was good fun. Of note, Arashiyama really doesn’t open up till past 10am. If you’re there early you’ll be hungry. We did visit the Miffy bakery. Long queue but tasted good. Visited Golden Pavillion, cool temple, short to go around tho. Then the Kyoto imperial palace (cool and free) and finally Nijo castle as it was right next to our hotel. I did a short run around Nijo castle as the sun set. Loads of other runners. Great stuff.
Day 10: For this day I copied the temple walking route listed here: What To Do In Kyoto – A 3 Day Kyoto Itinerary – Nerd Nomads . Really enjoyed albeit feet were knackered and blisters were forming which would make me mildly uncomfortable for the remainder of the trip. 30k step counts everyday take their toll. Finished with a traditional tea ceremony at ‘Maikoya’. We both loved this. Getting in traditional dress was amazing even if the poses we were encouraged to do made it appear to my family as if we were having wedding photos.
Day 11: left Kyoto on the bullet train for Tokyo. Saw mount Fuji as we went past. When we arrived we took a chill before going around Shinjuku then visiting the golden Gai. Had some great but relatively expensive drinks.
Day 12: Woke up with loads of insect bites which sucked. I normally spray myself but forgot having been so drunk with my new Golden Gai friends. Don’t make this mistake!
Visited the national museum which was really cool and Ueno zoo. Pandas were great but some of the enclosures (size, standard) made me a little uncomfortable in comparison to the space given in UK wildlife parks/zoos. Not sure i’d go again for that reason. Passed through Akhibara later and it was sound.
Day 13: Had a lay in then visited Shibuya. Yep. This place sure is busy. Shibuya sky was cool. We were both kinda exhausted with busy big cities at this point tho as had little interest in shopping. Both realised at this point our preference for temple/older style Japan rather than the big city centres. That’s just a personal preference i’m sure there’s many who are the opposite. In the evening went to TeamLabs Planet. Now this really was fun. Water exhibits soothed my blisters and insect bites too lol.
Day 14: With a day spare we took the train to Kamakura. Saw the big buddha, explored other shrines and stops. An awesome day trip. A welcome change of tone. Also, a fairly large bird of prey swept down and stole a man’s sandwich causing him to fall in the sand at the beach. This was excellent theatre.
Day 15: unfortunately it was home time. Back on the bullet train to Osaka from Tokyo. Sad faces. We will be back Japan.
As a side note; with Etihad we had access to the Etihad ‘Visit Abu Dhabi Experience’ getting 2 free nights stay at the Traders Hotel. Pretty insane deal to get it for free as a stopover en route home. Abu Dhabi isn’t really my type of place but I know that now. Also, Etihad staff really stepped up their hostility and awkwardness here. Not sure id fly with them again personally.
End comments:
All in all, probably cost us about 2.5-3£k each. It ain’t cheap but it’s definitely worth it and is much cheaper than the UK once you’re there. Amazing country. Loved the people. Loved the culture of things, silence on public transport, always helpful, always respectful. Watch out for insect bites and blisters, they suck. The cherry blossoms really do add to things. Chopsticks are easily learnt. You can go with zero knowledge of Japanese. Translate, basic phrases and a smile go a long way. Public transport despite appearing overwhelming is actually easy. For UK folks, you can’t jaywalk here. Even if there’s no cars, no one does. Carry a bag for your rubbish too. Oh and public toilets and toilets in general are amazing.
by Lonely-Possession909