Golden Route + Three Views of Japan + Tohoku Sakura [13/4 to 27/4]


*This trip is basically me bringing 2 first-timer friends to Japan. As it is their first time, I’ve decided the typical golden route is the best way to go. However, they mentioned they are less interested in urban tourism, so I’ve decided to do the Three Views of Japan, and planned for a sakura viewing session in Tohoku as we were reaching Japan way past Kansai and Tokyo’s peak. I’ve also introduced them to Goshuin, so quite a portion of our time is spent visiting temples and shrines for the stamps.*

*I wouldn’t go too much into details on the exact places we traveled to everyday as the Golden Route is pretty extensively covered by many people here. However, I will put emphasis on certain things I feel is worth covering, particularly on notable restaurants and our accommodation.*

**Leg 1 – Kansai & Hiroshima region \[13/4 to 18/4\]**

* Base: Kyoto, [Hotel Vischio Kyoto](https://www.hotelvischio-kyoto.jp/)
* My personal preference is to stay near the Kyoto station, since I like the convenience it brings. The hotel is very accessible from the main station and the bus station, which was great whenever we returned to Kyoto at night via buses.
* The hotel had the best service of all the hotels (excluding ryokans) we’ve stayed at during the trip, but the rooms are kind of small. Luggage forwarding was a breeze as they did all the paperwork and hotels confirmation.
* One huge plus point is that it has a sentou, making it a great place to unwind after 20k to 30k steps sessions in the day.
* 13/4 (arrival, Kyoto Train Museum)
* Had unagi course meal dinner at [Jisai Kyouman](https://kiwa-group.co.jp/kyouman_gion/), which was pretty amazing. The unagi claypot rice was the main dish and it was a visual and taste spectacle. The unagi was all grilled to perfection with a delectable crisp at the skin. It was a back-up option for my failed booking at Unagi Hirokawa, but I dare say the overall taste of the food is better than Hirokawa’s. Need reservation, can be done via Tabelog.
* 14/4 (Kiyomizudera, Nishiki Market, Ginkakuji)
* Nothing eventful.
* 15/4 (Kinkakuji region)
* Had breakfast at [Honke Daiichi-Asahi](https://www.honke-daiichiasahi.com/), which was a stone throw from Kyoto Station. A queue was already forming even though it was early in the morning. The bowl of shoyu ramen was hearty, but I’m not sure if it was worth the queue. Tip: the 特製ラーメン version is just ramen with bigger portions of meat and noodles (there’s no special ingredients), so don’t go for that if you’re not a big eater.
* 16/4 (Fushimi Inari Taisha, Uji, Nara)
* Went to [Nakatanidou](http://www.nakatanidou.jp/) in Nara. The live-pounding was a cluster fuck of tourists gathered at the window. If you’re not interested in that, you can just buy the mochi from the window at the side. The seaweed senbei at the right was pretty great as well.
* Kofukuji Nan-endo has a pretty great paper cut-out goshuin with the deer motif, making it a great goshuin to remember the region by.
* 17/4 (Arashiyama region)
* Daikakuji has great paper cut-out goshuin. Flashy goshuin is kind of rare for the temple variants, so Daikakuji is a good place to visit. Their goshuincho is nice as well, and I regretted not getting one there.
* Lunch at [Shigetsu](https://www.tenryuji.com/en/shigetsu/) in Tenryuji. We are not into vegetarian cuisine, but was thoroughly impressed by their course meal. Every dish was packed with flavours. It’s easy to make reservations, and I strongly suggest you to as there is limited sitting. We’ve seen many getting walk-ins getting rejected as the restaurant was booked out for the rest of the day.
* Dinner at [Kuishinbo Yamanaka](https://maps.app.goo.gl/4QJHfkU54Z43b3WN9). This would be the most expensive meal for the whole trip. The #1 steak place on Tabelog is no slouch. We made reservations for the course meal, and the meat dishes were all impressive. At the end of the day, wagyu’s a Japanese breed, and it’s best eaten when cooked in Japanese western style. The owners well versed in his meat, and you’d get to see and take photos of the raw cuts of meat before he cooked it. The beef consomme is a pleasant surprise and the clear soup was delicate and meaty in taste. Choose it over the other options of soups when they asked you for your choice. I’ve booked via My Concierge Japan, their default option for English reservations. However, I think it’ll be cheaper to reserve via Tabelog instead.
* 18/4 (Himeji Castle + Miyajima)
* The free English guide for Himeji castle is strongly recommended if you’re visiting the place. I’ve learned so much as compared to when I visited the castle without any guides. However, do only engage their services if you’re interested in the history of the castle. We had a sweet lady as our guide, and she mentioned it was disheartening to introduce the castle to disinterested participants.
* Dinner at [Tatsu](https://maps.app.goo.gl/KgnCmLgGVwYfEDXx7), a restaurant specializing in Hiroshima-styled okonomiyaki. One of the higher rated okonomiyaki restaurants in the region. Small place, no English menu. Food takes time to cook as the chef put in his all into cooking the okonomiyaki, but the effort shows in the taste of the food. The tontoro and pig stomach side dish is delicious and highly recommended.

**Intermission 1 – Amanohashidate + Kinosaki Onsen \[19/4\]**

* Motoise Kono Jinja is surprisingly packed with Japanese visitors as compared to my last visit a few years ago. You can feel the importance of the jinja considering the number of visitors vs how out of place it is. Collecting goshuin here takes a long time, and we nearly missed our connection transport to Kinosaki Onsen due to it.
* Onsen Ryokan: [Onishiya Suishoen](https://www.suisyou.com/)
* Onishiya Suishoen is a relatively new onsen ryokan located a short distance away from the main street. The amenities and rooms are really fresh and new, so if that is what you’re after, this ryokan is probably the place to go. Personally, my preference is on a more dated and traditional experience, so (spoiler) I prefer the other onsen ryokan over this. Their service is great though, providing you with a shuttle van service that brings you from the ryokan to the main street, invalidating one of the major cons it has (which is it being away from the main street). Just arrange for them to bring you to the main street, do your onsen hopping and give them a call (can be done via Line or Whatsapp, no need for local numbers) and they’ll fetch you back to the ryokan.
* The dinner and breakfast is decent, but nothing noteworthy otherwise
* Rooms are spacious and more than suitable for 3 person
* It has a small outdoor bath for the males bath (not sure about female), so that is one plus. Had a great chat with an ojisan there. The baths are not that busy, but that is kind of expected since many tourists will be onsen hopping.
* For what its worth, you’d be having dinner and breakfast at a separate room instead of the one you’re sleeping at.

**Leg 2 – Tohoku \[20/4 – 22/4\]**

* Base: [Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai-nishiguchi](https://www.daiwaroynet.jp/sendai-nishiguchi/)
* The biggest 3-pax room we ever stayed in for a hotel during the trip. There’s actually enough place to open up our luggage in the room
* Great distance from Sendai station
* 7-11 and Starbucks is right below the hotel, if that is ever your thing
* 20/4 (Arrival)
* Traveled from Kinosaki Onsen to Itami Airport, then took a flight to Sendai
* Introduced my friends to Zunda, which they loved. Zunda shakes are awesome and very unique to Sendai, so try it.
* We wanted to have dinner at Gyutan Kaku – Vlandome, but the wait was too long, so we skipped it and tried another gyutan restaurant instead. Will probably need to go outside of lunch/dinner hours if you want to skip the queue.
* We went to [Aji Tasuke Honten](https://maps.app.goo.gl/DXrF1mwbZGQVGGeT8) instead. The taste is great especially if its freshly grilled, but they served up long slices of the gyutan instead of thick horizontal cuts. The two surfaces of the gyutan are scored in opposing diagonal cuts on each side. If you’re biting at the wrong places, the gyutan can come off as chewy. I don’t think it’s a great introduction into gyutan for first-timers, but “veterans” will probably enjoy the way it’s cooked. Price is cheap compared to franchises like Rikyu, but I’d recommend Rikyu for first-timers.
* 21/4 (Shiogama + Matsushima)
* Shiogama Jinja is surprisingly packed. Obtaining goshuin here will take time, but the jinja is worth the visit. Just be prepared for the long climb up the stairs
* Lunch at [Kameki Sushi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/vFCSQJrebcuFQYSQ8). Not gonna lie, it’s my third time to the Matsushima region, and my main reason for going here again is for the sushi. I’ve tried Kameki Sushi once, and decided to bring my friends here to try it. It’s a banger the first time, and it didn’t disappoint the second. Shiogama’s known for its sushi, so do try it out of you’re visiting Matsushima. I’d recommend the course meals if you can afford to, as the taste punches way above its price point.
* If you like oysters, the oyster curry bread is quite good at [Pensee Matsushima](https://maps.app.goo.gl/dgX2mmk8ZNymS2dz8).
* 22/4 (Hirosaki Castle)
* Contrary to Kansai and Tokyo, spring came much earlier in the Tohoku region. Even though it was listed to be in full bloom at around 21st Apr, the leaves have already started appearing on the sakura trees, though it’s thankfully little compared to post bloom leaves. I wasn’t expecting to visit Hirosaki Castle in full bloom when I was planning the trip, so it’s a pleasant surprise and an item crossed off my Japan’s to-do-list. Mt Iwaki decided to grace us its presence on that day with a clear sky, granting us unimpeded view of Hirosaki castle and Mt Iwaki together in its full glory.

**Intermission 2 – Aizu-wakamatsu + Higashiyama Onsen \[23/4\]**

* Having been to Aizu-wakamatsu once during its full bloom, the plan was to revisit again during the sakura season while visiting the onsen in the area. Unfortunately, its way past its peak and most sakura trees at Tsuruga-jo has shed its petals. I’ve came to know of the existence of Gojyoin (御城印) here, which is a less formal and fun activity of collecting castle stamps. RIP wallets.
* Lunch at [Unagi Ebiya](https://maps.app.goo.gl/CeEyLZPK2qNheTQf6), which its English name got wrong and should technically be 6th instead of 5th (it’s under its 6th generation owner). Excellent unajyu, the meal fully explains how the restaurant is able to survive for so many generations. Order the grilled eel liver if you can, that thing is delicious. You can only do so if the meal you order is of medium-sized portions or above.
* Onsen Ryokan: [Mukaitaki](https://www.mukaitaki.jp/)
* Where do I even start? Out of the handful of onsen ryokans I have visited so far, Mukaitaki is easily the best onsen ryokan I’ve ever stayed at. Higashiyama Onsen easily loses out to more famous onsen towns like Kinosaki, Ginzan and Kusatsu, but Mukaitaki hard-carries it with its rustic charm and excellent service. Its designated as one of the cultural properties in Japan, and it’s not hard to see why, considering that it has been around since the Edo ages and has served royalties of the past and politicians in the present. The building is especially stunning at night.
* Booked the room with the garden view, and the lone sakura tree in the garden is still hanging on with its blossoms, although it is past peak. Still a great view to relax when sitting at the balcony. The room I reserved is spacious for 3.
* Service is excellent, no complains. Meals are served in rooms, so that’s another great experience for me as that is my preference.
* The meals are prepared using local seasonal ingredients. One of them is a local fish dish using traditional cooking methods. The portion is huge, so prepare yourself accordingly. No complains about the meal however, everything is scrumptious.
* It’s just a fking 5/5. I’ve never revisited any onsen ryokan so far, and Mukaitaki may be the first one to make me break my rule.

**Leg 3 – Tokyo \[24/4 – 27/4\]**

* Base: [Sotetsu Grand Fresa Takadanobaba](https://sotetsu-hotels.com/en/grand-fresa/takadanobaba/)
* No complains about the hotel itself. The room is the smallest out of the 3 hotels we stayed at, but that is to be expected for Tokyo. Have to do some decent planning to use your luggage in the room. It’s right next to the Takadanobaba station, but I kind of disliked its heavy dependence on the Yamanote like to travel to different destinations
* Applying for its membership (free) and using it during your stay will net you some refunds when you check out, making your stay slightly cheaper.
* 24/4 (Aizu-wakamatsu to Kitakata to Tokyo)
* Made a detour to Kitakata to try its famous ramen, upon the enthusiastic recommendation from the ojisan at Kinosaki Onsen. Checked out [Shokudo Namae](https://maps.app.goo.gl/u4dRUcneP1BiD2XC9) and I gotta admit, it’s fucking good. Simple noodles and broth, but the taste is much deeper than it looks. Do go early as they may close way earlier than indicated on google. We were the 2nd last customer there and it’s only around 2pm.
* 25/4
* Typical Tokyo stuff
* [キッチン谷沢](https://www.google.com/maps?cid=7072118269251546215) caters to the locals and dishes up some pretty mean Japanese-western fare. No English menu here, so you’d have to wing it with translation programs if you can’t read Japanese. Great food at a great price.
* 26/4
* Decided to leave my friends to do their shopping while I collect more goshuin. Went to Kamakura and Enoshima and visited the usual suspects.
* Goryo Jinja in Kamakura is pretty interesting with its goshuin, as it has a shrine cat which is featured in all 3 styles of its goshuin (normal handwritten, handwritten with drawing of the jinja, the passing Enoden train and the cat, and paper cut-out version of jinja, Enoden and cat). Do visit it if you’re a cat lover collecting goshuin.
* Enoshima Jinja’s double-paged paper cut-out goshuin with miko is my most fav goshuin so far for the trip.
* Negishi Hachiman Jinja, located at Yokohama, has different goshuin designs every month, and is worth collecting if you’re passing by.

*All in all, a great trip, if not slightly crazy in the 2nd/3rd leg. For first timers who are doing visiting Japan without any old-timers, I’d not recommend to do it this way as it may be a bit overwhelming. For travelers making repeated trips, I’d recommend exploring Tohoku as I feel is really underrated.*

by Tenmashiki

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