Trip Report: Introverted solo female traveler in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Yokohama

Hello everyone! Loved reading your trip reports before my trip, so wanted to contribute back to this supportive community!

About me: 26F, I travelled solo between May 13th and May 27th. I hit Tokyo (5 nights), Kyoto (4 nights), Osaka (3 nights), and Yokohama (1 night). I don’t drink, so this report will have no mention of clubs, bars, dancing, etc. I tended to wake up early, walk over 20k steps, and wrap it up at 10PM. I’m from Toronto, and a visible minority.

Notably, I carried around a sketchbook, and drew in it around Japan! This was a great conversation starter and I had some pleasant interactions because people saw me drawing and were curious.

Plane ride + arrival

* Took AA to Chicago, JAL to Haneda.
* JAL was a comfortable economy flight. Unfortunately my screen froze 🙁 So had to entertain myself.
* You may have heard that JAL gives free ice cream and snacks and miso soup, etc. But if you get a special meal, they refuse you all of those. I managed to ask for some but they drew the line at ice cream…sad.
* I slept on the plane (thank you, melatonin from stranger) so did not feel jet lagged upon arrival, but ended up with no appetite for almost 4 days. Couldn’t eat at most of the places on my list as I felt sick thinking about eating them, all throughout my trip unfortunately.
* Getting a Welcome Suica from Haneda Terminal 3 was extremely easy. I took the Keikyuu line immediately after. Even with my luggage (normal sized carry on, backpack, cross body bag) and a train full of people, it was easy. (I’m used to subways in Toronto).

Tokyo

* Itinerary:
* 14th: Relax at hotel, walk around, eat.
* 15th: Shinjiku, Shibuya.
* 16th: Tsukiji fish market, Asakusa, Akihabara
* 17th: Kamakura day trip
* 19th: Ginza, Roppongi, leftover Tokyo Explore
* The subways feel exactly like the subways in Toronto, same noise level (light chatter)
* I generally followed the rule of walking on the left side, but still found it difficult to anticipate which way people would walk (and my goodness, the BIKES, they do whatever the heck they want!). After talking to two Japanese friends, they didn’t seem to be aware of any unspoken rule to walk on the left. Maybe Toronto is just more anal about walking on the right.
* Following Google maps to a T, especially entrances and exits, made navigating the subway a breeze. I personally found Shinjuku station easy to navigate, but got lost at Shinagawa twice (due to Shinkansen vs. normal lines)! Fortunately the two times I had an issue with my Suica, I asked an attendant for help, gave them my card, and they sorted it within minutes.
* I felt like people in Tokyo were very kind and responsive to me. Had some pleasant interactions with Japanese people here and there (ex. someone complimented my earrings!). Met another traveler and we went for dinner together.
* It’s difficult to describe why, and you may disagree, but: Tokyo felt surprisingly a lot like Toronto. I felt right at home in Tokyo.
* I’m very used to Japanese culture, language, food, etc. so didn’t experience heavy culture shocks. I learned a wee bit of Japanese before coming (can hold super, duper simple broken conversations) so most of my interactions with service workers were in Japanese. As a result, I can’t comment on how prevalent I found English. It’s not necessary to use Japanese; this is simply how I conducted my trip, for fun.
* I stayed in Asakusa right outside Kuramae station and would highly recommend it. Super convenient, Sensoji was a 15 minute walk away, there were 2 convenience stores outside my hotel, it was amazing.
* Sensoji was so amazing I went there thrice! (Once in the day, once at night, once during the Sanja Matsuri festival).
* The fish market was my least favourite part of my entire trip. Everywhere in Tokyo was kind but everyone at the fish market felt cold, and I could feel like they were very impatient with tourists. It wasn’t very lively when I went. To be honest, it brought down my mood heavily before Akihabara helped bring it back up. I bought bonito flakes here though.
* Ginza and Roppongi were kind of boring to me. Asakusa and Shibuya were tied for first place! Akihabara closely second. Shibuya had a very youthful vibe and a contagious energy.
* The Kamakura day trip was one of the highlights of my trip. I sat by the ocean for an hour. When I went to Hokokuji temple and went to the tea house (recommended), two Japanese coworkers saw me drawing and we talked in Japanese (I studied a wee bit before coming). They drove me to Hase Dera after and wished me well! Hase Dera was BEAUTIFUL, highly recommend.
* I did a taiyaki making experience at Gurako in Asakusa and highly recommend it. It was so fun and I learned how to make taiyaki. I bought a taiyaki fry pan and made some at home!
* Tokyo had way less DBZ merch than I’d hoped… 🙁
* Unpopular opinion: I preferred Kura to Sushiro.

Kyoto

* Itinerary:
* May 19th: Shinkansen to Kyoto, explore
* May 20th: Arashiyama, Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street, Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, Otagi Nenbutsuji, Monkey Park
* May 21st: Fushimi inari, kimono rental, Gion, Kiyomizu-dera, Yasaka Pagoda
* May 22nd: Uji
* Incredibly easy to buy a reserved shinkansen ticket on the spot with my credit card. Just use the machines, they’re very clear.
* Somehow got on the wrong shinkansen despite being at the right platform and double checking with an attendant. I think the problem was my train was ex. at 11:15AM but the train on the platform was 11:10AM and going somewhere else, and I didn’t check the time. Easy solution: got off at the next stop and took the train behind it, which was the correct train! Double check the time!
* Kyoto people did not feel colder at first, but I felt the difference when I went to Osaka.
* I started my walk just outside the bridge near the monkey park, and walked all the way to Otagi Nenbutsuji through the preserved street. This whole walk only took like an hour, hour and a half one way. Completely doable in one day and I didn’t feel rushed at all. I highly recommend Otagi and Adashino, there was barely a crowd and I was alone many times!
* Monkey park is a hike in and of itself…a very long one…please buy water at the bottom!
* I thought I would absolutely love Kyoto but I found it a bit boring? I got templed out quickly (though I did do the goshuincho, got 5!). Walking around Arashiyama was nice and I actually managed to touch 2 mini bamboo groves before the “main” one? They were all pretty.
* I do not recommend the philosophers walk. It’s just like…a path, next to a river.
* Shockingly I preferred the Kamo River to the Katsura river. The Kamo river felt livelier, being surrounded by the shopping street and street performers.
* Uji was quieter and more boring than I hoped it would be. I did have amazing matcha there of course. But I walked all the spots that the tourist map recommended and it was just okay, just a nice and peaceful walk. Very pretty though. I waited until I got back to Kyoto to have dinner.
* I think I speed-ran Fushimi inari? I got to the “top” of the trail in less than an hour. I was on the main trail but when I got to the “top” there were no further paths. Two groups of tourists also seemed confused. I ended up going back down but the walk that I did do was very impressive and beautiful despite it being busy.
* HIGHLY RECOMMEND RENTING A KIMONO! I felt so beautiful and it was so comfy! I walked throughout Gion and Kiyomizu-dera and Yasaka Pagoda and it was all just so beautiful. This was the most packed part of the trip, people absolutely mashed together.

Osaka

* Itinerary:
* May 23rd: Local train to Osaka, dinner with friend
* May 24th: Meet with other friend
* May 25th: Nara day trip, mount Wakakusa
* I never expected this, but…Osaka was my favourite part of the four places I visited (it helped that I had two friends to visit here but I’m referring specifically to “vibes/feel” of the city). Dotonbori was pleasant to walk along, with the water. The streets were lively. People seemed happier and more fun. I enjoyed walking everywhere here, felt like I absorbed the upbeat energy of everyone around me.
* Nara was AMAZING! ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! I thought it would be just deer, too, but the walk around is beautiful! I highly, highly, highly recommend climbing Mount Wakakusa (I began at I believe the South Entrance?) The views from the top of that gentle mountain hike were unreal. There are 3 “legs” to the mountain, each higher than the previous, all with breath-taking views and with lazy deer relaxing after a day of eating tourist biscuits. Met and chatted with a family at the top of the mountain. Mount Wakakusa was one of the highlights of my entire Japan trip.

Yokohama

* Itinerary:
* May 26th: Shinkansen to Yokohama, meet friend
* May 27th: Flight back home (except not really because I was denied boarding due to an overbooked flight despite checking in 2 hours in advance and online the night before, so they put me in the fancy Haneda hotel with free dinner, breakfast, and onsen and spa access, and gave me a travel credit…I’m not complaining!)
* Yokohama was very beautiful! The sea air was incredibly fresh. I spent ages walking around, staring right into the strong wind, closing my eyes, smelling that intoxicating sea smell.
* Visited China town and it was nice. I wouldn’t go out of my way to see it but it was good, had good food.
* The amusement park is so cute. I went on the ferris wheel (“Cosmo Clock 21”) for 1000 yen, highly recommend! The day I went the roller coaster wasn’t running due to rain but it looked really fun!
* Walked into cup museum, decided against paying to enter. Looks fun for kids though.
* Met a mutual on Twitter who didn’t speak a lick of English, and I didn’t speak a lick of Japanese, but we talked for 8 hours via google translate…went for dinner, drew together, walked around and saw the Red Brick Warehouse, went for coffee, drew again, talked more…it was amazing.
* I would recommend Yokohama for sure, at least the night before a flight back to Haneda as it was easy to get there via bus.

Flight back

* Got to try an onsen for the first time (unintended) as I got free spa access due to my delayed flight. Very relaxing, especially with the crisp night sea air above me and the steamy hot bath below me.
* Was not as awkward as I thought it would be. I adjusted very fast.
* Got some milk from the vending machine and felt so incredibly blessed!
* On the way back, I was not given JAL but was given American Airlines (AA). Somehow it was actually way better and more comfortable than my JAL flight, with better food, despite JAL being voted best economy (or so I’ve heard). So if you need to take an AA flight to Japan, no worries!
* The jet lag back is real…ugh.

Miscellaneous comments

* The only people I heard use “Domo Arigato” were very old white men, haha. If you want to learn only the bare minimum, use “arigatou gozaimasu” for “thank you”, “kore” for “this”, and “onegaishimasu” for “please”. You’ll be golden.
* I used quite a lot of cash. I would say 60% card, 40% cash.
* Welcome suica (physical card) was super convenient.
* I used Ubigi which activated as soon as I landed. Super smooth usage aside from a bit spotty in Osaka. I bought the 3 gb which I used quickly, then the 10 gb which I didn’t finish. Going back, I’d just get 10 gb.
* My luggage situation: one small rolling suitcase, one duffel bag (which I crammed in the rolling suitcase on the way there and filled with clothes and checked in on the way back), a backpack, and a small crossbody. I didn’t buy many souvenirs or merch so this was perfect for me.
* I only eat halal. I found it relatively easy to eat pescatarian (which I just assumed to be halal; I’m not super strict about things like mirin for example) there. There were some halal ramen places which were good, and I had a halal wagyu beef rice bowl. I don’t like beef in general so wagyu was okay…too fatty for me. But overall, no trouble finding food.
* 7-11 runs at the end of the day were some of the highlights of my days. (But the food is not as mind-blowing as everyone will have you believe, I mean it’s still convenience food!)
* Over-researching spoiled my trip somewhat. Ironically to those of you who already finished reading this…I recommend against over-researching.

If I remember anything else, I’ll add it.

Overall, a wonderful, fun, relaxing trip! Can’t wait to book a second!

EDIT: Extra things that came to mind:

* In Tokyo, I stayed in Asakusa (Toyoko Inn Asakusa Kuramae No. 2). In Kyoto, I stayed at a location a bit of a walk from the station but the bus stopped right in front (Hedistar Hotel). In Osaka, I stayed in Namba about a 10 minute walk away from Dotonburi (Hotel Asiato). In Yokohama, I stayed near Sakuragicho station (Sotetsu Fresa Sakuracigho). I did free breakfast for all except the last. The breakfast was heavily Japanese which I wasn’t used to but hey, free food!
* Beds were very firm in all these hotels but personally I love firm mattresses.
* A good place to get breakfast are the chain restaurants Komeda, Tullys, Dotour. They have “morning sets” of toast, egg, and coffee that are lovely. Komeda was my favourite.
* I used Booking.com for all 4 of my bookings. I actually rebooked the same dates and rooms for slightly cheaper later as Booking.com had seem my 4 bookings and gave me discounts when I canceled and rebooked them a few months later (?). Anyways, I downloaded the app and had all my bookings on there. Super easy to manage and an easy way to contact the hotels about things like early check-in where calling in Japanese would be difficult.
* All places let me store my luggage free of charge after check-out. Took advantage of this to check-out, have breakfast at my leisure, then calmly come and take my suitcases to head on the shinkansen. I ensured my itinerary was organized such that I never took my luggage to any tourist attractions or restaurants, only ever in transit or stored with the hotel. Less stress!
* Gacha is so expensive….400 or 500 yen a pop (about $4 or $5).
* Don quijote was a magical experience every time…I went there every time I needed to be loaded with dopamine and overstimulated
* Eating was my favoruite part of Japan. The food everywhere is delicious. Don’t be afraid to try other cuisines. I had Indonesian cuisine for the first time here and it was amazing! I made it a point to have ice cream almost every day. Hey, it’s a vacation!
* “Buy things as you see them, don’t wait to see them again” was a very useful rule, as maybe 7/10 times I never saw the thing again.
* Don’t worry about all the “unspoken rules” you see around the internet like “Never ever ever do this one thing in Japan!!” Japanese people themselves break them all the time, they’re just people, not a different species.
* I found the large amount of “NO PHOTOS!” laminated signs scattered everywhere very uncomfortable (peoples residential houses, shrines and statues, peoples shops, etc. had multiple ugly signs taped everywhere over their beautiful locations). Not in the sense that I wanted to take pictures and felt scolded, but almost like somewhere along the line Japan becane some giant amusement park and people were fighting back, wanting privacy. The thought of some poor grandma wanting privacy and looking outside to see hoards of tourists snapping photos of her windows only for her to get fed up and stick 5 “NO PHOTOS” signs all over her front entrance…makes me feel weird and sad.

by Secure_Drawer_4829

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