Trip Report – 6 Days on the Kumano Kodo

Here’s my little contribution back to the community whose shared knowledge I have made use of for some time.

I took a 2.5 week trip to Japan at the end of May this year with the goal of completing the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. There were two distinct halves to this trip. The Nakahechi week long thru hike of the Kumano Kodo followed by a chill out week in Tokyo. I'll share my Tokyo report if there's interest.

For context, this is my 6th trip to Japan and 2nd solo one. I am a middle aged man from the United Kingdom with what I cosider average fitness.

Pre-trip notes

• Bookings were all made in January to get the best prices. For the Kumano Kodo, that’s the minimum lead time I would suggest because accommodation options are very limited in these remote villages. I met hikers that booked in April who had to shuttle back and forth between the larger towns to each day’s hiking start points on public buses because there was no accommodation left.

• I used the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau to book the entire itinerary of the hike and simply purchased train tickets direct from JR and pre/post hotels on Booking.com. I opted for accommodations that also provided all meals on the hike where possible (with lunch being a bento that you eat on your hike). Unlike in the big cities, combinis aren’t always round the corner in rural Japan and even when they are, aren’t always open when you want them to be! I also opted to have a daily luggage shuttle service so that I only had to carry the essentials each day.

• I prepared in the preceding months at home with hikes and walks (16km+ each time) with a laden pack. Having read about the different styles of climbs in Japan versus everywhere else, I also took to long sessions on stair climber machines at the local gym for 45 – 60 min stints (getting stared at for hogging them as a result).

• I took the cheapest open jaw option from London to Osaka flying Air China transiting via Shanghai outbound and Tokyo-Beijing inbound. This was ~£250 cheaper than a direct flight but added a lot more stress and discomfort. Online check-in was not available (perhaps because my ticket was not purchased directly from Air China) plus their website is horrendously broken at the best of times. Inflight entertainment was limited and transiting in Chinese airports was more laborious than any of my previous transit experiences in the US or Europe. Picky eaters beware as meal options always had meat in them so prebook yours. That said, the ground and onboard service staff were excellent at all times.

• I would never have considered this option if European airlines were permitted to fly over Russia (and thus have a shorter flight time and cost). I woudl not take this option again unless the savings are even greater.

• With the savings, I added in a 2 day buffer in Osaka to get over jetlag and any other unexpected delays, and that turned out to be the right decision as we shall see.

Day 1 – Osaka

Upon arriving at KIX, I was notified by the ground staff that my checked bag with all my hiking equipment did not make it to Japan as it was flagged as a “problem” in Shanghai. This despite signing a waiver in Shanghai that my bags can be inspected without my presence and it had a TSA approved combo lock. I had to have a PIR form completed and provide the combination lock number and hope it arrived in time for the start of my hike.

Kansai Airport has a reputation of having never lost a passenger’s bag in it’s entire history and they weren’t about to break that record on my account so I did eventually get it back on the eve of my hike 2 days later. But by that time, I have already wasted half a day scouting for replacement clothes and gear instead of sightseeing!

Forms filled, I set up base in Namba at WBF Motomachi. Fantastic price with free breakfast and great location. Just a street away from the now social media famous Yasaka Jinja and 5-10 mins walk from the transport and shopping hub of Namba. The free breakfast wasn’t great but I’d happily stay there again for that price point.

Had japanese “italian” at Spaghetti no Pancho and loved it. Then turned down the wrong street lined on both sides by maid cafe girls soliciting customers (just me at that time) in the dark. Creeped me out!

Day 2 – Osaka

Went to the nearest koban and filed a police report as required by my insurer. Staffed by two officers, one older and one younger officer. The older man spoke no english at all but the younger gentleman could to a certain extent. Ultimately, google translate was the life saver here.

I had to provide an itemised list of items in my lost suitcase, where and when it was lost and where I was staying at and they typed up a report all in Japanese, had me sign it and then issued a receipt with a case number and said they’ll be in touch with the hotel if there’s any news. All in, it took me about 40 minutes. An interesting experience and an official case receipt as a souvenir.

Bought a 1-day metro pass and visited the Museum of Oriental Ceramics (beautiful!), lunched at Onigiri Gorichan (seasonal items were great), Osaka Museum of Housing and Living + special exhibition gallery. I think kids would really enjoy this small little hands-on museum. I certainly did. Then to Shinseikai (very touristy) and then a Mega Donki (very touristy and somewhat dodgy feeling neighbourhood with lots of pachinko parlours)

Bumped into a reality TV or youtuber crew filming some sort of Amazing Race like show on the metro. Raised a few eyebrows when they held up the train for all their team members to get on board and then proceeded to speak loudly and film in the carriage. Overtourism comes in many forms!

Day 3 – Osaka / Kii-Tanabe

Checked out and made a final phone call to KIX to check on the status of my lost bag and they confirmed that they have it and it will meet me when I arrive at my next accommodation in Tanabe. Relieved, I did not follow through with the more expensive purchases and kept what I’ve purchased unopened with a plan of returning them when I returned to Osaka (spoiler alert: they did not accept my returns).

Had a late breakfast in a kissaten, walked around Abeno Harukas and Tennoji park, then found a cheapo bento in the basement supermarket of Tennoji station, hopped onto the Kuroshio to Kii Tanabe. Got a green car upgrade for not very much extra and thought it was worth it. The views got progressively more picturesque as we left Osaka for the coastline of Wakayama (sit on the right side outbound, left side inbound for the best views). Arrived at Kii-Tanabe, the starting point for most hikers, in 2.5 hours

Checked into my guest house and walked around the main street and browsed the information centre before experiencing the golden hour at Tokei Jinja with no one else in sight. A stark contrast to Osaka!

Stumbled upon a cosy tempura restaurant 天ちら咲場 in the Ajikoji entertainment district of town. Sitting at the bar and ordering tempura a la carte was a very fun experience. Everything was fresh and delicious and I stuffed myself silly thanks to the lovely couple running the place.

Day 4 – Kumano Kodo Hike – Tanabe to Chikatsuyu

Started bright and early with a wonderful Japanese breakfast of fish, rice and assorted side dishes and handed my lunch bento as we finished eating (the same pattern would repeat itself for the next 5 days). Took the next available bus to Takajiri Oji, the official start of the Nakahechi route with many fellow hikers. I noted that the Takajiri Oji information centre stocked a small selection of key hiking gear such as hats, poles, and rain jackets for the unprepared or perhaps the spontaneous? Got myself a japanese stamp booklet (100 yen) to complement the dual pilgrimage stamp booklet (free from Tanabe’s information centre but not available here).

Offered a brief prayer at the shrine, collected my first stamp and started climbing. I’ve not been on a hike that had such a demotivating start. It’s a straight up 45 minute winding climb up stone steps surrounded by dense growth without much to see. Gradually, the climbing eased up and I began to understand why this was worthy of world heritage status. I started to see (ahem) the forest for the trees. I could smell it too. And hear it! It was a multi-sensory wonder that I thoroughly enjoyed till the end in Nachsan 5 days later.

Had lunch at the viewpoint and community rest stop in the idyllic village of Takahara. This was one of the few spots where day trippers in vehicles and hikers crossed paths on the Kumano Kodo. There was even a lady selling gourmet coffee out of her van that day.

After lunch, I descended through a lovely stretch of the trail dotted with old tea house ruins, lush fern covered valleys and streams and bamboo groves. I arrived in Chikatsuyu 18km and 7 hours later. Checked in to Guesthouse Housen and was stunned by the luxurious hotpot dinner laid out for me by my hosts.

Watched local news with them over dinner and was duly informed that Ewiniar, the first typhoon of the year, would be skirting Japan over the next few days and bring heavy rains and some winds to Wakayama.

I decided to cut out the first 14km of the planned hike and instead start from Hosshinmon Oji and add on the short Dainichi-goe to get to my accommodation for the night. It was disappointing news as it threw my pilgrimage stamp collection plans into disarray.

Day 5 – Kumano Kodo Hike – Chikatsuyu to Hongu

Got a lift to the town’s bus stop and soon found out that many other hikers had also changed their minds and the bus was standing room only by the time it got to Hongu / Hosshinmon Oji. The hike took on a different but nonetheless beautiful aspect in the pouring rain. This section, being marked as the easiest and most accessible, was also more crowded with day walkers. Nevertheless, even the easy paths turned into streams in this weather and I got progressively wetter with each passing kilometre and ended up at the Hongu Taisha main shrine completely soaked.

Hongu Taisha was cool and regal in black. Despite being the main shrine of the Kumano sect, it’s not as big or ornate as many of the other big names in Tokyo or Kyoto. In fact, none of the three main shrines of Hongu, Nachi, and Hayatama were! All were understated and blended in with the natural beauty around them.

Got the obligatory stamp, bought a special dual pilgrim amulet and then headed over to the info centre across the road to dry off and have lunch. With the rain easing off, I walked through the painfully beautiful rice fields leading to the world’s largest torii gate and on to Dainichi-goe mountain pass to the Yunomine Onsen area and then onwards to Wataze and Kawayu Onsen where my ryokan was. I had totally underestimated how difficult this 2km stretch of the hike was from the map and elevation guide. There is no respite on this section and no rewarding view to speak of at the top. It was step after wet step after wet step in the gloom and if you dared stop, you’ll be set upon by mosquitoes and other biting insects.

I arrived at Sansuikan Midori-ya in such a state that I was embarrassed to check in at this prim and proper ryokan. I must have reeked! They don’t take in many hikers and my fellow guests appear to be on coach tours (domestic and international). This was the most expensive accommodation per/night I’ve booked on this entire trip and it was so worth it. The river view rooms are incredible, with a panoramic and unhindered view of the river and the forest across it. The hotel also has it’s own hot spring baths and its outdoor one is right on the riverbed itself.

Day 6 – Kumano Kodo Hike – Side-trip to Shingu

The typhoon stuck around the next day so I decided against more hiking and decided to bus it to Shingu to visit Hayatama Taisha instead. Shingu is a sleepy town by the coast and one popular activity was to take a traditional boat ride as part of the pilgrimage to get to Shingu. You will need to pre book your seat on the boat beforehand or they’ll not take you. And in this unpredictable weather, I saw a couple get on the bus all the way to the start point before being told that the trip was cancelled. And the next return bus was not for another hour….

The wind and rain get a bit too ridiculous for any form of sightseeing so I returned to the ryokan early and enjoyed the outdoor bath one more time just before the swollen river overwhelmed it. It remained inaccessible the following day when I checked out.

Day 7 – Kumano Kodo – Hongu to Koguchi

This remains my favourite leg of the hike. The typhoon had moved on, the waters had receded and temperatures were in the low 20s c and the air was clear and fresh. I made it to Koguchi village by lunch time and realised that there’s only one village shop and no restaurants or cafes at all. Scored some buns and fruit and sat outside for lunch. Run by a lovely lady who offered me fresh green tea as I ate. That’s omotenashi for you!

Checked into Shizen no Ie, the former school turned hostel and chilled out for the rest of the day in the peaceful surroundings.

Day 8 – Kumano Kodo – Koguchi to Nachisan

This last leg was advertised as the toughest leg of the entire route but I thought it was only moderately difficult terrain wise with a very long upward climb with an elevation gain of 1km over a single 4km stretch followed by a fairly gentle 10km descent into Nachi. There aren’t many stamps to collect on this leg but the views were just as beautiful as any of the previous days. I arrived in Nachisan after 6 hours and mingled with day trippers and tour groups around Nachi shine and falls. I did more souvenir shopping, before calling it a day at the only hotel in the area.

Day 9 – Kumano Kodo – Nachisan, Kii-Katsuura, Osaka

Wrapped up the hike with a stroll up and down Daimon-zaka to look at old growth (and giant) cedars. It’s probably the only part of the Kumano Kodo that most visitors will get to experience and I think that’s a real shame after what I’ve seen over the last few days. There's so much more to it than this!

I took in one last look around the base of Nachi Falls, checked out and bussed into Kii-Katsuura. This is a town with many seafood themed shops and restaurants centred around the port area. It even has a public foot bath by the port looking out to the sea.

Had 2nd breakfast in patisserie Fukusukedou Sweet but I wasn't impressed. Did get an excellent ramen lunch set at Rio Ramen before taking the train back to Osaka. Incidentally, I found out that the train from Katsuura stops briefly at the town of Taji where the infamous dolphin hunts still take place each year.

After 4.5 hours on the train, checked in at APA Hotel Tennoji Ekimae – the smallest business hotel I’ve been in so far. I finished the day with a celebratory dinner of fancy tonkatsu at KYK in Abeno Harukas and retired to plan for my following week in Tokyo.

Post hike notes

• Mont Bell is a great place to shop for outdoor gear. I’d say it’s a little more upmarket than Decathlon. I’d consider it the Japanese equivalent of REI or AS Adventure.

• Since my luggage did eventually show up, I left my emergency purchases untouched with the intention of returning them when I got back to Osaka. But it turns out that Japanese return policies are terrible, even more so when you pay by card. Different branches of the same company refused to accept my return and said I have to go to the exact store I bought the item from to get it returned. This was true for Mont Bell, Donki, Uniqlo.

• There are many youtube videos that feature some or all of the hiking experience of the Kumano Kodo. I would encourage you to NOT view them if you intend to take this trip yourself. You should experience it first hand.

• The Tanabe city’s tourism bureau is a great planning resource and their booking tool for all things Kumano Kodo is great value for money. I spoke to other hikers and those that used a tour company paid double what I did for the same self guided itinerary (rail, room and board).

• Much has been written about Ghibli movies taking their inspiration from England but after my time in Wakayama, I have come to understand that the true essence of their films is indelibly Japanese. I could see, hear and smell Nausicaa, Totoro, Mononoke and Ponyo on this journey! The mountains, hills and forests are unique to Japan in every sense. It teems with life and spirit. The ryokan even had a little warning in my room advising guests against leaving the windows open at night as “the place is overflowing with nature”!

I hope this report may be of some help to you if you’re looking to do something a little different from most visitors to Japan. Happy to answer questions about specific bits of the logistics and the hike in comments. Do let me know if I should bother writing up on my Tokyo leg of this trip.