Hi guys!
I've been a longtime user of this subreddit and it helped me a lot! So hopefully I can help some of you guys answering some uncertanties and maybe give you some ideas! If you got a specific question feel free to hit me up in the private messages.
About us: Couple (2M), in the end of their twenties, from Switzerland, big part of our life revolves around Japan. We're nerds about anime/manga, japanese food, the language and nature. Probably just nerds about japan as a whole. We're more on the fast paced side of travelling. When I'm in Japan I kinda forget what it means to be tired. In the end of the day we try to find a good mix of fast paced days with a sprinkle of some more relaxed days to get best out of the trip.
The trip was our fourth one. First time up the north and first time winter!
Short summary of our trip stops:
Tokyo 2d (part 1)
Tohoku region Sendai 2d – Ginzan Onsen 1d – Yamadera 1d – Aomori 2d
Hokkaido Hakodate 2d – Niseko 1d – Lake Toya 1d – 1d Noboribetsu – Sapporo 4d
Tokyo 4d (part 2)
Tokyo (2d, Akihabara, JR EAST Hotel Mets Akihabara)
- 24th December (Akihabara, Pokémon Café)
(Highlights of the day: Back in Tokyo generally, First Ramen)
The Hotel: Perfect Hotel if you're staying in Akihabara. The rooms are typicially small, but it's really one fall from the main station. The breakfast option was awesome: You get vouchers you can use at the Starbucks just in the next building or the restaurant which is connected to the Hotel. Both very good! (Japanese Starbucks is just so superioooooor)
So we arrived on the 24th on the morning and then directly went to Akihabara. It was the first time we took the Skyliner and needed to change at Nippori for Akihabara. The ride was very smooth, the train not to crowded and the price was fine. After leaving our stuff in the Hotel (that was possible in literally every hotel) we stayed around Akihabara and went for lunch in Kyushu Jangara. Walking around Tokyo (especially Akihabara) after five years felt crazy familiar. It was almost like we never left it. Tokyo really fells like home for us.
In the evening we had a reservation for the Pokémon Cafe. I was able to get a seat by myself. I read a lot about how to reserve it, and it actually went pretty smoothely. My tip is: Wait a bit longer after the first few minutes and after 45min there were actually quite a bit spots open again.
Our experience at the Pokemon Cafe: We both grew up with Pokémon and I myself still play it and get most of the new games (to be disappointed again lol). I read really mixed things about the Cafe beforehand and for us it was mainly a disappointment. The food was really bad and the staff was typicially japanese extremly friendly, but the interactions we had with them were very awkward. They play a game and some food they help with the preparation (I had the milk berry drink). When we visited the Gengar came which was quite cute – it was really at the final minutes before the time slot ended, we would have left earlier if it wasn't for the Genger. I really wanted to try the Pokémon Cafe also to get it off our list – if you're a really really big Pokémon and especially with kids I can imagine it's very fun. For us, it was an okay-ish experience I would not do again.
- 25th December (Shibakoen, Shibuya Sky, Shibuya Blue Cave)
(Highlights of the day: Shibuya Sky, Tonkatsu @ Hagino)
So that day we started with heading around the Shibakoen area to visit the temples/park around there. The weather was just perfect and the Zōjō-ji temple was impressive and beautiful. I especially loved the little stone figurines around the who were decorated in many different styles and outfits!
We then headed to the Tokyo Tower around lunch to grab something but were not satisfied with the options there. So we found a little Tonkatsu restaurant in the area (Hagino), very much recommended! We decided then to visit the new Azubudai Hills, cause they were nearby. The area, especially the courtyard, was impressive. It was the last day they had a Christmas Market, which was very cute. There were a lot of shops still closed or to be opened soon, most of them should be open by now though! It's definitely more of a luxury area of Tokyo shopping wise!
Then we headed to Shibuya to get to Shibuya Sky. I'm a big fan of Sunrises/Sunsets, high buildings and city skylines. Shibuya Sky definitely nails it to perfection. The last time we were in Tokyo (Summer 2019) it wasn't finished yet and so far it has been my favorite observation deck I visited. We got tickets one hour before the sunset and it worked perfectly fine. The height you look at the city was gorgeous and you have 360 degree view. It was quite windy up there but worked well. We spent almost three hours gazing at the city and taking way too many pictures (10/10, would do it again). We even got a glimpse of Mount Fuji (the first time after four visits!!).
After that we took a stroll around the Shibuya Blue Cave Illumination, that was also very nice!
Sendai (2d, Sotetsu Fresa Inn)
- 26th December (Loople Bus)
(Highlights of the day: Yakiniku)
We arrived in Sendai around 9am, headed to the Hotel left our luggage there and then took the Loople Bus, which is a tourist bus that takes you around the most important sights around the city. There is one every 20min and you can get on and off at the sights how you like.
We stopped at
- Zuihoden Mausoleum (8/10)
- Site of Sendai Castle (7/10) – city views though!
- Osaki Hachimangu Shrine (8/10)
- Jozenji-dori (6/10) – it's a shopping street, but as a touristic bus stop, I don't really know.
We probably could have fit one more thing in if we wanted to, but also tbh the other stuff didn't catch our interest really. It's a good option to get the sights of the city and it's surroundings.
In the evening we went for Yakinuku (Gyutan; beef tongue, is Sendais speciality, which we had here). The location was called Yakinuku Kagura, we did pay a lot for it (probably our most expensive meal on the trip, around 24'000 Yen/160 USD), but also ate a lot and had sooooo much meat, also we were very hungry. We'd say it was worth it!
- 27th December (Matsushima)
(Highlights of the day: Matsushima, Zuiganji, Entsuin)
Once again the weather was perfect. We took the train in the morning to Hon-Shiogama and then took the one-way cruise to Matsushima. There were a total of three groups (including us) on the boat. It was windy and cold but we spent most of our time on the outside deck getting a glimpse of all those little islands. The boat trip was around an hour and it was a perfect start to get to know the surroundings.
When we arrived in Matsushima we headed to to the Zuganji temple (9/10), which has a beautiful alley of cedar trees (the Matsushima area in general though!), we had a walk around the building and we very much liked it's vibe and quiteness.
Then we needed to have lunch and found this nice little restaurant called Hasekura (8/10) managed by one man only with two tables. We waited like 20min before we were able to get in and the menu is very simple, you can have different kind of bowls with seafood. We tried the Unagi and the Ikura one – Unagi for the first and last time, had a really hard time to eat it. Still – the bowl was very good and a really good price for what you get!
After our lunch we walked to one of the islands connected to the mainline through a red bridge – Fuukurajima. You pay 200 Yen for entry and then can walk around freely on the island. It was a good stroll that took us about 1 1/2h in total before we headed back to grab a coffee at BLUE BAY COFFEE, a very small and lovely to-go coffee shop, we had a great chat with the owner.
After that coffee we walked around for a bit more, heading to Oshima Island to see the sunset. We headed back from the Matsushimakaigan to Sendai. We craved western food this evening, and found Felice (8/10), a cute italian restaurant!
- 28th December, Ginzan Onsen
Hotel: Kansyokan Onsen
Hotel: It was a really traditional and old Ryokan. Our original plan was to stay in Ginzan Onsen itself, but everything was booked out – you can book starting half a year before). We wanted to stick to our plan to head to Ginzan Onsen, that's why we still went with this nearby Ryokan (45min drive). It was okay, the food was good, really typicial Ryokan food, it had an Onsen (I couldn't go, cause I'm tatted – my boyfriend really liked it though). Breakfast was really good (7/10).
(Highlights of the day: Kaki trees in the snow, seeing a wild Macaque, Lunch in Ginzan)
We rented a car for this trip @ Nissan Rent A Car, it went very smoothly BUT we only realised after our arrival that we needed a translation of our internation driver's licence (regarding: Switzerland, Germany, France, Beligum, Monaco, Taiwan). That was a bit of a stress beforehand but we managed to settle it on the day before. We started in Sendai and left at 10am to arrive about two hours later in Ginzan. On the way there it went from no snow to a really nice layer of white. The drive up the mountain area was so nice – we passed a wild Macaque on the way up which was a really uniqe and cool moment and I fell in love with the bright orange kaki fruits in the white winter landscape.
Ginzan Onsen itself is a (really) small ghibli-esque town. The snow conditions weren't too good to get the best winter vibes, but it still was a cute day trip. I would only do it again when you're in this area and going with the car was convenient. For a late lunch we had the Eggplant dish from Izu no Hana, which was one of the best foods on our trip (10/10).
The evening we enjoyed in the Ryokan.
- 29th December, Yamadera
Highlights of the day: Yamadera Temple, Lunch in Yamadera
On our trip back to Sendai we visited Yamadera temple. That was awesome – a temple complex in the mountains with a short hike up to it. We loved to explore the surroundings and grabbed food at Taimenseki (9/10). After that we headed back to Sendai, returned the rental car and headed to Aomori
Hotel: Hotel MYSTAYS Aomori Station
Standart japanese hotel, we had breakfast included which was good (8/10).
- 30th December (Aomori)
(Highlights of the day: Nebuta Wa Rasse Museum, Lunch)
This day was dedicated to visit the Nebuta Wa Rasse Museum (10/10, one of the highlights), we want to visit the actual festival so bad! Definitely on our list for a future trip. The A-FACTORY is a shop around the most popular fruit in Aomori, APPLES! We bought a few things, a lot of local stuff and postcards with apples and cats! Fun!
We went for lunch to the Ajino Sapporo Oonishi, ate the local speciality, the Miso Milk Curry Ramen that one was a good one (8.5/10)! It's very touristy, there was a big line, we waited for about 40min, but I'd say it's worth it. In the evening we walked around the city and just chilled a bit more.
- 31th December (Mount Hakkoda/Evening: Hakodate)
We really wanted to see the snow monsters! So we went up to Mount Hakkoda. The trip was very simple, you can take a bus from the main station, it took about 1h and then you can take the ropeway up. The weather conditions were bad, on top of the mountain you had almost no sight, but the monsters were there! So we still enjoyed it very much and made a longer stoll. Also the way back was simple: Only thing – there are only three buses a day (both ways), so make sure to check the schedules.
Hotel: JR Inn Hakodate
The best "convenience" hotel we had! The room was spacious, modern and definitely worth it's value (10/10).
In the evening we went to the Hakodate Hachimangu to celebrate the new year! That was an awesome experience, it was a bit snowy, white and just a beautiful start in the new year. It was quite crowded, such a nice experience (10/10 ).
- 1st January (Hakodate)
Pretty much many things closed on this day. We went to the Goryokaku to see the city view, followed by going to the other side of the city to go up Mount Hakodate. One hour after arriving upthere the earthquake around the Noto Peninsula happened, although we were pretty far away the warning went all over the city, the shops closed up there, they let no new people up – so we had the whole upper observation desk almost to our selves by the end.
Our dinner was at Hakodate Sushi (9/10), first a bit weird cause it was a bit hidden. But we had very fresh sushi from such a cool sushi master!
- 2nd January (Niseko)
Here's the start of our little Hokkaido road trip. We rented the car at Times Car, went smoothely.
Accomodation: Niseko Hirafu Tsukishi, it was cozy and the owners are very sweet. We didn't get too much out of it but I'm sure it's a great location if you plan to Ski around Niseko.
We left around 11am and arrived around 4pm at Niseko, checked in at our accomodation and then we went to grab dinner in Niseko. Niseko (Hirafu) was fascinating for us cause we never seen something so not-japanese in Japan! The people were mostly foreigners and the main spoken lanugage was english, the we went to the food stalls in the center of the village and bought some food there. Wouldn't recommend, way too overpriced and mediocore at best. It snowed heavy that night and we were torn between going Skiing the next day or not – also never saw so powdery snow in my life AS A SWISS PERSON. So fluffy! Only can imagine how good it is to ski. Anyways, we walked around the village to get a grip of it and then decided to go for dinner @ Yummy's Pizza (8/10), a tad bit overpriced but it was good.
Later that night we had a fantastic Karaoke experience at Kutchan at Karaoke Utaya, would recommend!
3rd January (Lake Toya)
Hotel: The Lake View Toya Nonokaze – damn, what a good hotel! The view to Lake Toya with Yotei-zan in the background is superior! We were big fans of the buffet style dinner and breakfast. We enjoyed our stay very much, definitely worth it's price. Would recommend!
We started our day early leaving Niseko behind and decided against skiing. We headed to Lake Toya crossing Rusutsu – the view there to see Yotei-zan was superior! With the main street in the middle and the mountain rising up there. After that we headed to Toyamachi, spend some time at Ukimido park eating our 7/11 snacks, taking some photos around the Ukimido-Pagoda. Then we headed to theLake Hill Farm, first the coffee shop for some pastery and then to the ice cream shop – very good ice cream!(8.5/10). After that visit we checked in around 3pm (earliest check in time) @ The Lake View (definitely worth spending some time there!). If you wanna use the private onsen be prepared to write them an E-Mail upfront, everything was booked out when I asked. Dinner, like I said – AMAZING! That was a good hotel stay.
4th January (Noboribetsu)
Hotel: Ryotei Hanayura – a really old, traditional Ryotei. Somehow we were over Ryoteis for this trip it LOL We liked the room and the experience, we had an private outdoor onsen in our room. That was awesome. The food was complicated and weird Kaiseki food, wasn't a big fan (but also: somehow too much of it for the last two weeks). The price definitely was too much, as it was our most expensive hotel sitting around 450 US Dollars for one night.
We woke up very early – our goal: To go up to the Onsen at the ROOF to see the sunrise with Mount Yotei-zan – WORTH IT (10/10). That was so beautiful, calm and peaceful. After the AMAZING breakfast we went on a boat tour to get closer to Nakajima (the islands on the middle of Lake Toya – only can exit on that island in the summer), but the boat takes you to an 1h road trip (6/10). It was nice but nothing special.
After that we left to head to Noboribetsu – we took a wrongturn and traveled through a mountain pass to reach Noboribetsu – that was fun!
We went for at Jigokudani (Hell's Valley) (5/10), unfortunately most of the routes were closed leaving us with only two to travel (the one that gets you close to it and one that goes upper above). We saw everything after an 1h. Disappointing for us – somehow I imagined that Hell's Valley differently, but also had different expectations how it looked. I wouldn't take the extra route there, but it could be worth it to be visited when being around that region.
We ate lunch at the Pizzeria Astra (10/10), good pizza and service (I didn't realise we ate that much of italian food on our trip hahah).
The rest of the evening we spent at our Ryokan, chilling and relaxin.
- 5th January (Noboribetsu – Sapporo)
We left Noboribetsu and on our way we stopped at the Noboribetsu Date Jidai Village – it was recommended by friends and I'd say it's worth it (8/10). It was a very rainy day and we still had lots of fun, we spent about 4h there and got to see everything. The shows with the actors and the haunted cat temple were my highlights! After that we left for Sapporo and returned our car, that worked all without any problems at all.
Hotel: Sotetsu Fresa Inn Sapporo (Susukino) – really cheap and central hotel! Small room but that was good enough for us, as it's not our focus. I'd book again.
The evening we walked around Susukino and ate Okonomiyaki at Mochi no Ie (9/10) – very much recommened, especially the Edamame were sooooo tasty!!
- 6th January (Sapporo)
My partner was feeling not that well – so I headed out a bit by myself and did some shopping and sightseeing. I walked mostly around the center and visited a amazing tea shop called Goykusuien (10/10). The owner speaks a good english and is very interested in explaining the different tea types. We bought a lot of stuff (especially Matcha and Hojicha powder) – soooooo recommended! And the prices are very reasonable, like in all of Japan!
7th January (Day trip to Otaru)
My partner was feeling better so we decided to visit Otaru. That is a small town right by the ocean. Throughout the day it started snowing more and more and in the afternoon there was a big snowstorm (we loved it tbh, it was so much fun walking around in the white and fluffy snow) – we were lucky to catch the last train back to Sapporo before they shut the services cause of the heavy snow.
Otaru itself is definitely recommenend. We visited the fish market close by the train station and then headed to the canal followed by the main shopping street. Otaru has lots of glass work and were amazed how beautiful crafted they were. We got a lot of sweets at the LeTao Flagship Store – and drank tea and ate cake there. It was good, but also we needed to wait like 30-40min.
In the evening – when we were back in Sappporo the whole city was covered in a white blanket. That was so beautiful and I will never ever forget the beautiful white covered Sapporo. The snow storm continued until the next morning…
- 8th January (Sapporo)
…and the weather was perfect! A clear blue sky and chilly cold temperatures – we headed to one of the biggest shrines in Hokkaido – the Hokkaido Jingu. That was such a beautiful experience – many people were there and there were a lot of food stalls. We stayed there for like 2-3h walking around, having some food, taking pictures and also getting lucky charms etc. at the shrine.
Later we headed back to the center and after a short break we went to the popular "Ramen Alley" – we arrived right at the opening time of the place we wanted to go which was Sapporo Ramen Haruka (9/10). I had a cheese Ramen which was very tasty! I'd recommend coming early cause the line can be long, we waited about 20min but the waiting time can be 1h+ on busy times.
- 9th January (Sapporo – Tokyo)
In the beginning of the afternoon we had our flight back to Tokyo to spend our last days in Japan there. It was a weird feeling going from all this snowy-cold area back into a much warmer region, but also cool!
We didn't do much when we arrived. Our Hotel was the Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku. It's right at the train station and a good spot if you wanna stay in Shinjuku. Next time we will probably stay in another region we don't know really yet.
- 10th – 14th January (Tokyo)
Those days are kinda blurry in my head, we were a bit tired and also still not feeling 100% well. We did lots of shopping we hold back so far: the Uniqlo Flagship store in Ginza 10/10, Itoya 10/10 (stationery stuff), Pokémon Centers and a lot of book and anime/manga shops (like Animate, Book Offs, Mandarake etc.).
We have a book with different walks around the whole of Tokyo and we decided, that each time we're in Tokyo we are doing one of that (it's a german book, but still here is the Link if interested). The walk we randomly decided for was in the Takanawa area and was built around the Sengakuji temple (Temple of the 47 Ronins). It's a region of Tokyo we never been and I'd definitely recommend it! The temple is beautiful and there were almost no people there. Another highlight of the walk was the Happo-en garden (10/10). It's a beautiful wedding location with a public garden in it. Expect the workers, cutting the trees for spring there was no one there. The pond is beautiul with lots of Koi – I bet it's an 11/10 in the spring and fall time with the flowers and trees!
THE END!
That took way much longer then expected and I started writing this back in March and then did nothing for weeks. I hope this insight helps some people to find some gems or give an idea/inspiration of things to do! I love Japan very much and it was once again a trip of the lifetime – get out of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka! Explore Japan in it's whole beauty, definitely worth it.
Please feel free to ask questions or hit me up anytime if you want to know more! I love talking bout Japan – and yaaaay, next trip in Spring 2025 – can't wait to see more of Japan!
by kayprel