Hello! Want to get feedback and suggestions for our (mid 30s couple) two-night stay in Hakone this mid November. We'll be heading from and then back to Tokyo afterwards. We're currently booked the first night at Yama-no-Chaya and then Gora Kadan for the second night, and will be getting the three-day Hakone Free Pass.
The goal was to split up the different sections of the Hakone loop across the 2 days and try to also maximize our time to fully enjoy and experience both ryokans. We plan to pack somewhat light to Hakone and leave our larger luggage at the Tokyo hotel. Really want to take advantage of the season to see some fall foliage in the area.
Some specific feedback we'd appreciate are:
- Any major attractions we are missing that we should try squeeze in, especially if we want to see fall foliage at that time of the year.
- Is it worth also experiencing a public onsen if we are already staying at two ryokens with onsens?
- Is the itinerary too tight at any spots when accounting for the crowd/lines?
- Any good spots to get lunch for each of the days?
Itinerary
- Day 1 (get to Hakone, explore southern part of the Hakone loop + take boat tour, check in to Yama no Chaya)
- 7:30am – Checkout from Tokyo hotel and get to Shinjuku Station
- 8:00am – Take Romancecar to Hakone-Yumato Station
- 10:00am – Explore Yumato a bit, then drop off bags at Yama-no-Chaya
- Should we explore Odawara Castle instead? or have time to fit in both somehow?
- 11:00am – Bus to Amazake teahouse. Get snacks/tea.
- 12:00pm – Walk the Old Tokaido to Moto-Hakone, visit Hakone Shrine
- 1:00pm – Walk to Hakone-machi, visit surrounding areas, get lunch somewhere?
- 2:30pm – Take sightseeing boat tour round trip on Lake Ashi
- 4:30pm – Bus back to Yama-no-Chaya, check in, onsen, dinner, relax, sleep.
- Day 2 (explore northern part of the Hakone loop with ropeway, check in to Gora Kadan)
- 8:00am – breakfast at Yama-no-Chaya
- 9:00am – checkout, take Tozan Railway to Gora
- 10:00am – drop off bags at Gora Kadan
- 10:30am – Tozan Cablecar to Sounzan
- 11:00am – Hakone Ropeway to Togendai, get volcano eggs at Owakudani
- 1:00pm – Visit Botanical Garden and Glass Museum
- Is it better to bus Togendai to Sengoku or take the ropeway back up first?
- get lunch some where?
- 4:00pm – Bus back to Gora
- 4:30pm – Check in at Gora Kadan, dinner, onsen, relax, sleep.
- Day 3 (explore Gora area, head back to Tokyo)
- 9:00am – Breakfast at Gora Kadan
- 10:00am – checkout
- 10:30am – Hakone Open Air museum, Gora park, get lunch somewhere.
- early afternoon – Railway/Bus to Hakone Yumoto, then Romancecar back to Tokyo.
Thanks for any advice or suggestions!
by MostlyHarmlessChub
3 comments
I know that you probably want to do the “Japanese trad” thing but there are some really good independent restaurants around Hakone that serve excellent burgers, pizza and other non-trad fare. Sounds like fast food but it is really top-of-the-line food prepared by artisans.
There wasn’t much in Yumoto worth exploring specifically upon arriving there, it’s better as a place you explore on the way out, since so much of the area (at least around the station) is various souvenir shops. But I guess if your hotel is nearby it’s worth a look around.
My favourite spot for autumn foliage was [Chōanji](https://maps.app.goo.gl/5Y4revCTbx27W4TA6?g_st=ac) near the Lalique glass museum.
The buses in Hakone are a bit hard to predict and make sense of – keep google translate handy and allow for delays.
I would say you have plenty to do already, so don’t worry about Odawara Castle.
I think you have a pretty solid itinerary. You will love Amazake Tea House. It’s one of my favourite places in the area. A few thoughts:
Hakone Shrine – If you’re planning to go to the shrine for photos at the Tori gate, you will either need to arrive much earlier to avoid the lineup, or add more time to this. You can expect to wait 1-2 hours to get a photo there sometimes.
Odawara Castle – They have a museum inside, it’s pretty cool. If there is a festival going on during your visit, I would recommend it. The food at the festivals they have are pretty solid. Cherry blossom season is the best time to visit.
Sengokuhara Grass Fields – In the fall, the tall grass fields shimmer and is a great place to take some photos. In the morning when the fog rolls in the photos are incredible. There is a walking path beside the roads to keep you safe in this area.
Public Onsens – The public onsens will give you more of a traditional feel of how the locals use the onsens. There are some pretty solid public onsens in Yumoto and Gora.
Yumoto Sightseeing – Sounji Temple – Founded in 1521 by Hojo Ujitsuna. Burned down by Hideyoshi’s attack on Odawara. Rebuilt in the Edo period. There are some historic artifacts and paintings that are visible to the public. It’s a 20-minute walk from Yama No Chaya.
Food – Definitely check out these: Naraya Cafe (Cafe with onsen footbath – Miyanoshita), 808 Monsmare (Pizza – Yumoto), Hakone Dolce studio STELLA (Gelato – Yumoto), KINOSUKE (Japanese BBQ – Yumoto)