Hi, I’m starting to plan a trip to Japan for mid 2022 for 15 Days
It will be 5 people: me, my wife, my 2 y.o at that time, and 1 couple friends.
d1 Arrive tokyo – chill and stroll around shinjuku
d2 Tokyo – free day (asakusa)
d3 Nagoya
d4 Nagoya
d5 Kyoto – downtown + fushimi inari
d6 Kyoto – arashiyama
d7 Kyoto – kiyomizudera
d8 Osaka – namba
d9 Osaka – universal
d10 Osaka – day trip to Kobe
d11 Hakone
d12 Hakone
d13 Tokyo – free day (harajuku, shibuya)
d14 Tokyo – free day (akihabara, ginza)
d15 Tokyo – free day (or yokohama day trip)
d16 Fly Out
Extra Info: I’ve been to Japan 5 times before. I listed my previous trip below. The challenges are:
\- to find itinerary that is possible for 2 years old to handle.
\- my wife hasn’t been to Kyoto Osaka before, so I need to repeat some of old itinerary
\- incorporate new destinations, so I can also explore new things
Initially day 3 and day 4 were also Tokyo with a daytrip to Yokohama and Nikko. But I’m in the middle of deciding whether going to Nagoya is possible and not too rush.
d10, previously day trip from osaka is to Nara. It will be a great fun for my kid, but I’ve been there before. So decided to try Kobe instead. Otherwise if possible start with Nara, and go to Kobe after lunch
\— my previous trip —
2006: Tokyo – Hakone – Kyoto – Osaka
May 2015 (17D): Tokyo – Fujikyu – Kyoto – Osaka – Kinosaki Onsen – Himeji – Hiroshima – Miyajima – Takayama – Shikarawago – Kanazawa – Tokyo
Oct 2015 (14D): Tokyo – Kyoto – Osaka – Nara – Kinosaki Onsen – Tokyo
Nov 2016 (10D): Sapporo – Otaru – Noboribetsu – Lake Toya – Hakodate – Tokyo
Jan 2018 (8D): Kanazawa – Shirakawago – Takayama – Shin Hotaka Ropeway – Hirayu Onsen – Matsumoto – Kawaguchiko – Tokyo
17 comments
I’d say it’s hard for anybody else to give advice. It would depend entirely on the temperament of your kid.
You’re moving around a lot. I’d guess by Shinkansen/train? If so, does the kid enjoy that? If not, I’d stay in one place for longer.
I’ve gotten the feeling that in Japan kids are not out in the public much until they “behave”, ie can be reasonable quiet when needed. So in general is optimize strictly for whatever’s needed to keep your kid happy.
We found it extremely difficult with a 1.5 year old in tow a few years ago and I definately would not recommend. The main problems were trying to find food (Baby food doesn’t seem to be a thing as common as it is in the west) many of the trains and metro stations had accessibility issues for a pushchair and that’s the case for a lot of general Tokyo with how tightly packed buildings and some stores are.
Definitely go to Nagoya. So many tourists skip it, which is a shame. Nagoya Castle was very important in Japanese history, and there’s also a very important shinto shrine, Atsuta Jingu. Perhaps the best thing about Nagoya, other than the people, is the regional cuisine. There is so much, and it’s all good. They use a darker miso in Nagoya than other parts of Japan, and they also sometimes use a different breed of chicken for their chicken dishes. Anyway, tons of good Nagoya food like: tebasaki, tenmusu, kisshimen, misonikomi udon, misokatsu, … Nagoya is also famous for its “morning” service. If you go for a morning coffee somewhere, they almost always give you something extra for free, like eggs and toast or a pastry.
Nagoya’s a big city, so there are all of the typical big city things there too.
There’s a Toyota museum in the area (Toyota is based in Toyota City, a little southeast of Nagoya).
There’s also the Tokugawa Museum, various art museums, etc.
Seto is nearby. “Setomono” is one of the words for “pottery” in Japanese, so literally “Goods from Seto”. If you like pottery, china, and anything ceramic, Seto is the place to go. There are a few museums and dozens of stores.
Inuyama is also nearby, to the north, which is a castle town. They have a nice little castle on top of a hill. There’s also a monkey park in Inuyama.
Nagoya is unique because it’s not Kansai nor Kanto. A lot of people see central Japan in terms of either of those two regions, but Nagoya’s in the middle, so has a bit of each. Plus, Nagoya has its own dialect.
Nagoya is probably the most underrated major city in Japan. It rules.
I’m not a parent but personally I would leave the kid at home or wait until they’re older to take them. Speaking as a former child (lol) I don’t remember very much if anything from trips I took until at least age 10. And like another user said, it will present a lot of challenges navigating with a stroller. Doubly-so if you go in the summer when the heat will drain your energy rapidly.
Travelling when they’re this age is great because you don’t have to add in all the stuff they want to do in a few years time! I don’t quite see how many hotels you’re stopping in but I would limit it to two or three. Avoid Ryokan as it’s not fair if your kid cries at night and wakes the place up. Travel with kids is great but tiring and if your kids is like mine, would need a few long walks in a pushchair to get them to sleep for a bit. As I’m sure you know, Japan is great for that and the Japanese are really friendly towards children. But onsen is out at that age, in my opinion, and quiet temples might be tricky. Navigating around that though, and bring a sling maybe for the underground, and you’re laughing. I’ve taken my now 10yo to over 20 countries but that’s mainly because she’s the kind of kid who enjoys it. Maybe the key is to get them travelling early?!!!
If your friends are prepared to spend a lot of time alone or with just one of you, this might work for a trip with a 2 year old. You are really packing the agenda at an age where naps and quiet time are important and a child’s stamina for exploring via stroller will be scale by their (dis)comfort.
Agreed with others, skip the Ryokan. It would be very discourteous to subject other guests to your 2 year old when they are paying for rest and relaxation.
I went in early 2020 with a then 2.5 year old so I can offer a few tips on travelling with a toddler. A few people have said it will be challenging, but it’s definitely doable. It wasn’t my first trip so we did tailor our trip to having a child with us. Some general tips on getting around and things like that:
* Try and book larger rooms / airbnb’s as you definitely need the space at the end of a long day
* Bring both a compact pram/stroller and carrier. It might sound like overkill but there are definitely places you can’t bring a pram, e.g Fushimi Inari or anywhere with pebble or dirt footpaths.
* Make sure the pram is one that you can quickly fold into something compact. Stairs are your biggest challenge when moving around, especially in older areas and at train stations.
* Walking around with a pram was fine. We found that the footpaths were wide enough especially in Tokyo. Outside of Tokyo the footpaths were a bit narrower but we found that with the reduced crowds it was pretty easy to get around. We didn’t go to central Kyoto so I don’t know how you will find that. Smaller cities like Kanazawa were great as it’s not too busy and you can just walk around and don’t need to rely on public transport
* Catching trains around Tokyo was fine, just stay away from peak hours. Otherwise we didn’t have any issues pushing the pram onto trains. Our daughter actually loved the trains so we always tried to go to the front of the train as she loved watching the train driver and looking out the front window. The biggest pain is just carrying the pram up and down stairs.
* Catching longer trains were also fine, as our daughter tended to just have a nap, but all kids will vary. But I think they will love catching the trains there as there is always a lot going on at the station and out the windows for them to look at.
* Department malls tend to have play and rest areas, so maybe try and find a few online before you depart so you can have a play break – otherwise there are a few playgrounds around.
* Food we found to be pretty easy. For breakfast we just bought some bread or yoghurt the night before and ate inside – which is why having a larger space is handy. For lunch and dinner we found most places were accommodating and our daughter would share our meal or we will find her something small. They don’t really have kids menus so keep that in mind. Most places had high chairs which made it easy. There is also food everywhere so easy to find something for them if they didn’t enjoy the lunch/dinner.
Re things to see and do for a kid:
* In Tokyo consider going to the Teamlabs exhibitions (assuming its open). The sensory there is great for kids.
* Disneyland and DisneySea were also great so consider that! Even if they don’t go on the rides there are a lot of shows.
* There are a ton of toy and character shops which they will love. My daughter also enjoyed helping to play the crane games. The staff at those places were pretty nice and helped us win a few things for her.
* You should go to Nara as my daughter loved seeing the deer there. You only need a couple of hours so before Kobe should work.
* Going to parks are also good as it gives you child a lot of space to run around for a bit which you enjoy the scenery.
* Indoor narrow areas were challenging and it’s a lot easier is less crowded or outdoor areas so factor that in.
* But when they are 2 they are kinda happy just looking around so you can definitely still see and do a lot of things that might not interest them, just have to factor in that it will be slower to move around so don’t put too much on each day.
Let me know if you have any questions!
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We did two weeks in Tokyo with a 2 year old at the beginning of 2020. It’s definitely doable but takes a bit more planning so that your accommodating your 2 year old as well as what you want to do.
We limited to 2/3 hotels that were larger than normal Japan room sizes to fit everything in and to not have to move so often, especially with a child, pram, luggage etc.
Definitely bring a pram, possibly also a carrier if they’re into that.
We also found that too much travel on one day didn’t work. 30 mins to a hour a time is all we could get before they needed to burn some energy.
Our strategy was to eat breakfast in our room, then find a park around where we were going that day in the morning before things open. After that it was normally time for them to sleep in the pram while we eat lunch and did things we wanted to do.
Look into where all the parks/play areas are for the places you are going so you’re not stressing on needing to find a place on short notice. There are a lot around but not easy to find all the time.
We had also been lots of times before, so it wasn’t so much about seeing things for us but to all be in a new place together. Even though they were only 2, they still talk about it now 2 years later.
You do need to go a lot slower though so keep that in mind.
If you need nappies/wipes/baby things etc, don’t bring too much, just go to Baby’s R Us on your first few days to stock up on everything. They also have great snacks to take in your bag for them eat.
Look into The Tokyo Chapter as well for information on where you’re going and advice on what to do with kids. Lots of really good information and day plans etc.
Is an open-jaws flight possible to arrange? You would save time and travel stress by flying into Tokyo and flying out of Osaka, or the reverse.
So we moved to Japan (hour south of Tokyo) about 8 months ago and have been traveling all over the country with a 2 year old and 6 year old. Having the right stroller is key, as well as understanding how to handle the food options.
We got a Joie Tourist for the stroller, and it has been perfect. Folds up with one hand and has a carrying strap which makes it easy for all the stairs and escalators around the trains and subways. Can’t recommend it enough.
We lucked out with food – our kids like most Japanese food. We haven’t been able to get onboard with typical Japanese breakfasts though, and especially the times most restaurants open. Occasionally we can find more western style breakfast places that open by 8 (we’re typically eating by 7-7:30), so we usually buy breakfast the night before at Seven Eleven or Family Mart. Makes getting rid of the trash in the hotel room a lot more convenient too. Their hot breakfast options in the morning are pretty reliable winners with the kids too.
As far as the itinerary goes, probably fine, although it is quite a bit of time in Kyoto. Personally it has been my favorite place in Japan and I could spend weeks there, however it is definitely the least kid friendly place we’ve visited. We’ve gone during cherry blossom and fall leaves, but it will probably be a while before I can get the fam to bite off on going again. I wouldn’t bother with Nara personally. Hit it out last time in Kyoto and everyone was underwhelmed.
Have you considered an open jaw ticket where your international flight arrives Tokyo and departs Osaka (KIX)? Or vice versa. Open jaw/multi-city flights can be the same cost or only slightly more expensive than a regular round trip and will save you a full travel day heading back to Tokyo on the Shin. I also prefer to shift hotels as little as possible as I like having a base that I really get to know the neighborhood around. With a toddler it might even be better as if you pick a neighborhood that has a park, grocery store nearby to where you stay it could be super convenient for when your little needs to run off some energy early in the morning or pick up snacks/breakfast items.
The Hiroo or Azabujuban neighborhood in Tokyo might be a good place to stay as they have lots of parks and is a popular area for expats so lots of English menus and a wide array of restaurants.
– [Tokyo Chapter: Where I like to stay in Tokyo with small children ](https://www.thetokyochapter.com/where-to-stay-in-tokyo-with-small-children/)
– [Tokyo Chapter: Hiroo With Kids ](https://www.thetokyochapter.com/the-hiroo-azabu-juban-area-with-kids/)
– [Tokyo Family Stays ](https://www.tokyofamilystays.com)
– [Tokyo’s Best Hotel for Families ](https://trulytokyo.com/tokyos-best-hotels-for-families/)
A less common neighborhood but one I highly recommend is Akasaka as it’s near 3 subway stations, has a wide array of hotel price point options, and heaps of great restaurants right outside your hotel door. Since the couple you are staying with will likely end up going out on their own in the evening a fair bit (as you may need to get back to the hotel for earlier bedtime) being able to have restaurants and bars like the [Champagne and Gyoza Bar ](https://goo.gl/maps/r1wXZQ8ovmsAPNN68) right nearby might be nice. It’s chill during the day but fun at night without being too crazy/overwhelming like Shinjuku can be. There are also several parks and playgrounds for kids, such as [Hinokicho Park](https://goo.gl/maps/XpFkYpXVfbJKQv3U6) and [Hitotsugi Park ](https://goo.gl/maps/XoHWcFX63NE19KfU8)
– [Akasaka Area Guide ](https://goo.gl/maps/r1wXZQ8ovmsAPNN68)
– [Tokyo Chapter: Akasaka With Kids ](https://www.thetokyochapter.com/the-akasaka-area-with-kids/)
Also, try to take advantage of existing suggested kid-friendly itineraries and suggestions. Your pace with a toddler will be different than your past travel experiences in Japan which may be frustrating at times but also enable you to see/do new and different things too. In Osaka, one park I highly recommend is the [Expo 70 Commemorative Park](https://www.osaka.com/thingstodo/expo-70-commemorative-park/) as it’s huge and has lots of things to see/do. There’s also a [LaLaPort ExpoCity Shopping Mall ](https://goo.gl/maps/AB6Fk2HAaw6TKYMSA) right next to the park with lots of family friendly restaurants too. You could make a whole day just here or combine this with an early morning excursion to [Minoo Falls. ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/540)
– [Best Living: Baby/Toddler Fun ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/category/age/baby-toddler-fun/)
– [Tokyo Chapter: Suggested Itineraries for Families ](https://www.thetokyochapter.com/category/tokyo-with-kids/suggested-itineraries-for-families/)
– [Best Living: Nagoya ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/category/travel/nagoya/)
[Best Living: Osaka ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/category/travel/osaka/)
– [Inside Osaka: Osaka with Kids ](https://insideosaka.com/osaka-with-children/)
– [Best Living: Kyoto ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/category/travel/kyoto/)
– [Inside Kyoto: Itineraries for Families with Small Children ](https://www.insidekyoto.com/kyoto-itineraries-families-children)
One note, grocery stores in Japan (especially smaller ones in city centers) may not have diapers. Head to a nearby [drug store](https://jw-webmagazine.com/5-best-japanese-drugstores-cc1305f73a77/) or Don Quiojte. Grocery stores close early in Japan (often about 8 or 9 pm) but drug stores and Don Quiojte are open very late or 24 hours. One option is to bring a suitcase stocked with all your toddler needs (diapers/wipes/snacks) that you use up along the way and then fill that empty suitcase with souvenirs. Or, pack light and just buy what you need along the way. I know you have a toddler so some of the links below are more geared to babies but thought I’d drop them in for others who may be reading this post.
– [Guide to Baby Diapers in Japan ](https://jw-webmagazine.com/5-best-japanese-drugstores-cc1305f73a77/)
– [Guide to Baby Wipes in Japan ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/guide-baby-wipes-japan/)
– [Guide to Formula in Japan ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/guide-to-baby-formula-in-japan/)
– [Guide to Japanese Baby Food in Japan ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/guide-japanese-baby-food-brands-types-ingredients/)
– [Sunscreens for Babies and Kids ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/japanese-drugstore-sunscreen-for-kids/)
– [Japanese Medicine Cabinet Essentials for Babies and Kids ](https://bestlivingjapan.com/japanese-medicine-cabinet-essentials-baby-kids/)
Happy Planning!
I would say it depends on your child, and you guys as parents. But in general, keep your expectations low; you may only be able to do half (or less) of what you would ordinarily do without a toddler.
I’ve brought my son travelling overseas when he was 9 months, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 years old. He’s actually a really good traveller… he would often sleep through plane and train trips, and easily adapt to the time zone change. Despite that, up until the 4 yo trip, we would have to pace ourselves really carefully so that he wouldn’t get over stimulated or over tired. That often meant not doing stuff the adults wanted to do. One (or both) of us would have to drop whatever we were doing to take him home (or to a quiet spot) for him to sleep.
Specifically regarding Japan, there are things that are great for toddlers and things that are not so good.
I find most larger stores and malls really good: the toilets often have little baby chair or cots to put your kid down while you do your business. There are soft play areas (not sure if covid has changed this though). Staff are pretty accommodating towards small children.
For the not so good things: it’s not pleasant bringing a pram on public transport, there are lots of stairs and the lifts are small (and often have a long line of elderly with their walking frames). There is very few public places to sit down to rest; I often buy a drink in a coffee shop so we could have a rest. And certain premises are just not suited for toddlers (most Akihabara stores fall into this category). Many restaurants still allow smoking (they might have a non-smoking areas, but the separation from the smoking section is laughable). You shouldn’t bring them to an onsen if not potty trained.
One recommendation for the Hakone leg; rent a car… I found it much easier because we could do stuff at our own pace, rather than work around the local transport time table. Certain areas are really hilly, and may not have proper sidewalks.
Traveling to Japan with a toddler sounds like hell on earth
See if 2 y/o can crawl through the hole in the column in the Todai-ji shrine in Nara. Supposed to bring good karma, but of course no adult can do it.
I don’t remember being 2 myself but he might like train museum in Kyoto.
Osaka aquarium.
Thank you so much guys for all the inputs. I will take all recommendations into my planning and update what’s going on one I have more solid plan.
I’m considering to fly in KIX and fly out from NRT to avoid going back and forth on shinkansen. I’ll play around with the itinerary this weekend. The big view probably Osaka (& day trips) – Nagoya (Nagashima Resort) – Hakone – Tokyo. I’m just not sure if there’a a straightforward travel route from Nagoya to Hakone, might need to adjust and choose on or the other.
In terms of kids:
+ my 1.5 yo kid doesn’t eat baby food anymore. and he loves udon and ramen 🙂
+ we have yoyo stroller which is very light for travel
So it sounds like you know Japan well enough. I’ve been to Japan a number of times with toddlers. I would suggest a few things
1) Look up kid playground indoors. Some of them are amazing and it might be a good thing to park your kid at for an afternoon with one of the adults while the others go do something more adult oriented. Outdoor playground works too if it’s convenient. Everyone, maybe aside from the one adult with the kid, will be happier.
2) Can you drive? Will you feel comfortable driving in Japan? With four adults and a kid it might be cheaper in many cases, and you gain a lot more mobility and flexibility which is nice to have. Your side trip to Hakone, for example, you can take the shinkansen to something like Odawara (take the Kodame train which will stop there) and drive the rest of the way up with a rental. Then you can drive around the lake and stop at whatever you’d like without worrying about the pram, the kid getting tired, etc. You become way more mobile and aren’t tied down to rural bus schedules etc. I highly recommend a car. In fact if you are comfortable enough to move away from the shinkansen route I would suggest taking the train somewhere and then just rent a car and go the rest of the way for a trip in the middle, bookended by a few days in Tokyo or Osaka
3) I think ryokan is fine provided one thing – you find a place that lets you dine in your room. If your kid can sit quietly and eat without a lot of fuss the ones that make you eat in a dining room is fine too. I’ve taken my kids to ryokans many times and they’ve enjoyed it without causing a ruckus