Hey folks,
I’ll be studying abroad in Kyoto for 6 weeks in Spring of 22’ (COVID-permitting, of course), and am hoping to do part of either the Kumano Kodo or Nakasendo trail after I finish in mid-May. Problem is, I can’t decide between the two!
I love backpacking so the Nakahechi route is appealing to me; the grand shrines look absolutely stunning and I like a route that weaves through the mountains. Kiso road, however, also looks spectacular; I LOVE the idea of seeing some smaller villages and more traditional towns. The Nakasendo trail seems like it could be a little more dynamic/engaging, whereas the Kumano could just be schlepping through the same forest scenery most of the time (though for good reason and with excellent payoffs)?
For those who have done one or both: what would you recommend? What did you like better? I’m open to any and all suggestions!
Also: I’m aware it will be hot and humid as heck (though maybe less so in mid-May than a July/August?) I’m hoping that my experience backpacking through humid, buggy Midwestern forests in 35 C heat will prep me. Thanks so much!
7 comments
I’ve walked both Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo for a total of maybe 20 days.
Kumano Kodo and specifically the Nakahechi Trail is what I recommend first. It’s not the most photogenic place. Most of the trail is through dark pine woods. But the historical artifacts along the way are rewarding, and the you will feel a sense of accomplishment if you make it to Hongu or Nachi. Both locations are magnificent.
Nakasendo Kisoji Trail may look better on instagram. But you will have to actually walk on normal roads alongside big trucks. And some of the famous villages along the way will feel less authentic like a theme park. Not because the buildings are fake or anything, but because the tourist crowd takes the serenity away.
I’ve done the short section between Magome and Tsumago of the Kiso Kaido/Nakasendo and do highly recommend it but have done no other Nakasendo sections as the mountain passes were rained out. You could easily do that part in an overnight trip from Kyoto.
I have done the Nakahechi route from Takahara to Hongu Taisha in 3 days and loved it. It’s a lot of forests but very pretty and the onsen areas around Hongu are gorgeous. I’ve come back to complete the Nakahechi route from Hongu Taisha onwards. Wakayama is fantastic.
Personally I would say it depend for how many days you want to do it. The problem with Nakasendo, there is not a long part that people usually hike. So yes I would do it for a day to see Magome and Tsumago, but I do not think I would try to do much more than that Personally, I would plan other things around the area other than just the Nakasendo hike, like do a proper mountain hike, or try to check some of the ravine/gorge along the river. Could also want to check for a onsen, the obvious one in the area is Gero onsen and there is even a bus from Magome/Tsumago to Gero onsen.
On the other hand, Kumano Kodo can easily be several days oh hiking. Yes, it will be a lot of forest, but you can also check several famous shrines. Along the way you will have options to stop at some onsen and depending on how far you go, you can end up at Nachi falls.
Mid may should not be too hot, you mostly want to be done before rainy season start, so usually early June.
I’d say Kumano! Nakasendo is less of a real pilgrimage but also worth checking out if you have a couple days.
The latter half of the Nakahechi (ogumotori-goe) is the best section, Hongu Taisha isn’t nearly as awe-inspiring as Nachi and the waterfall. It’s definitely a more challenging hike than Nakasendo, but Yunomine Onsen is a treasure. Just coming up on the onsen town while hiking is great, and the onsen water feels great on exhausted muscles.
Either way you can’t go wrong! Mid-May is more ideal for sure, July/August is smack dab in the rainy season, you especially don’t want to be rained out on the Kumano trail, the rocks can get really slippery in parts.
Personally I would vote Kumano Kodo, though Nakasendo could be nice for you depending on your situation. I walked the short trek from Tsumago to Magome and loved it no doubt. If you want to just spend a day or two, that would be the way to go. There are a number of ryokan that are really great experiences for the price. I forget the name of the one I stayed at, but absolutely loved it. I went with my brother who was visiting Japan at the time. Some things can be a little touristy, sure, but over all the well preserved main street of Tsumago is really worth seeing.
On the other hand, if you have more time, say a week or so, I would highly recommend Kumano Kodo. Some people say there isn’t much to see, but I disagree! The forests of Japan are peaceful and quiet, and the villages you will pass through too, are beautiful. If you are more into hiking and spending time in nature, the Kohechi would be a wonderful option as well. Then you can also see Koyasan. If you really want to go for it, you could start at Koyasan , join the nakahechi at Hongu grand shrine, and end at Nachi falls! Maybe thats getting a bit carried away… 😅
Do Tsumago/Magome as a weekend getaway during school season, and save the actual Hike for Wakayama.
Check out ‘Walking the Kiso Road: A Modern-day Exploration of Old Japan’ by William Scott Wilson, a pretty good journal of a week or two on the Nakasendo. I read it because I visited Magome and Tsumago (mentioned in this thread and really worth visiting), and was hoping to do a few days on the trail next visit to Japan, staying at ryokan/onsen along the way.