Travel the history of Japan on the Nakasendō and in Tajimi City

This is some tips for those of you who like to walk – physically or mentally – and also enjoy history. After 30 years in Japan and 6 in Tajimi, a country side town in Gifu prefecture, I am eager to share a route that will both take you along a famous and popular trail – the old Nakasendō Highway – and off the beaten path. This trip takes you from Nagoya to the Nakasendō trail, then back via a stop in Tajimi to Nagoya.

# The Big Picture

By the 7th century, Japan had developed a nationwide network of roads and highways to carry things on foot, horseback, and wheeled traffic; it was also used for transporting goods between towns and villages. In these ancient times, Japan did not yet exist as a nation state. The five main roads covered only the central part of the main island. Walking these roads is an excellent way of time travel, and one of the most popular routes is the [Nakasendō](https://https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nakasend%C5%8D). It was established in the 8th century and reached its zenith in the Edo period (1603 – 1868).

The 69 Stations of the Nakasendō (中山道六十九次, Nakasendō Rokujūkyū-tsugi) are the rest areas along the Nakasendō, which ran from Nihonbashi in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to Sanjō Ōhashi in Kyoto. Like in many other places in Japan, even Kyoto, most of the classic cityscapes, hamlets, and landmarks are gone here, but there is a 9 kilometer long trail that follows the old Nakasendō.

## Going there

You can get up-to-date train information in English from your mobile phone with the Jorudan Train Route Finder http://mb.jorudan.co.jp/jen/cgi/venr.cgi

Take the JR Chuo Line from Nagoya Station. There are 3 services that go directly to Nagiso; other services require a transfer at JR Nakatsugawa.

The trail starts at Nagiso Station　南木曽　(JR Chuo Line) and passes several small villages, waterfalls, and historical structures.

For detailed information on walking the Nakasendō, take a look at [the Nagoya International Center Walking Guides](https://www.nic-nagoya.or.jp/en/living-in-nagoya/nic-walking-guides/nic_walking_guides/2015/09151200.html).

## The Hiroshige/Eisen woodblock prints

One excellent way to start – especially when travel is restricted due to the pandemic – is a mental travel. Take a look at [Utagawa Hiroshige’s and Keisai Eisen’s woodblock prints](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/69_Stations_of_the_Nakasend%C5%8D) to get a good idea of what roads and travellers looked like in the Edo era. The list include the stations divided by their present-day prefecture and include the name of their present-day city/town/village/district.

This is truly a fascinating way to mentally experience the trip from Kyoto to Edo. The travellers created an important economy along the route, and inns along the highway thrived. People stopped to rest, eat and drink, and gambling was a popular pasttime. You can imagine how things got lively by looking at [this print by Eisen, depicting a brawl](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/69_Stations_of_the_Nakasend%C5%8D#/media/File:Kisokaido22_Iwamurada.jpg) at the Iwadamurada-juku inn.

# Mino Province

Walking the Nakasendō trail – the part that remains of it – will take you two to three hours. You may then return back to Nagoya, but here I want to advice you to step off the beaten path and make another stop on your way home. Many of the stations along the old highway are located in what was historically called the [Mino Province](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mino_Province). It served an important military and political role as the path to Kyoto as well as to Tokaidō. Here are the battlegrounds of the [battle of Sekigahara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Sekigahara), which changed the course of Japan’s history as it resulted in the country’s unification.

If you are a lover of pottery, like many of the warlords during Japan’s century long civil war, [Mino ware](https://www.discovertajimi.com/story-of-minoware-index.html) will find a special place in your heart. You will be surprised to find how it played an important part in the political and economic life of Japan’s elite in those days. The network of highways and sideroads in the area served to transport the ceramics throughout the country, and one of those roads was the Imawatari road down south. I would like to recommend that you get off the train back to Nagoya and spend some time in [my hometown Tajimi](https://www.discovertajimi.com/tokyo-to-tajimi-story-01.html). You can [continue walking there](https://www.discovertajimi.com/northhistory.html) and discover more of the history of the old network of roads on a micro cosmos level.

## Going there

Bus from Magome 馬籠to JR Nakatsugawa Station中津川.
Buses depart at 12:30, 13:15, 14:05, 14:45, 16:00, 16:40, 17:30, & 18:30 (last; 18:40 on weekends); costs 540 Yen, takes 28 minutes.

From JR Nakatsugawa Station to JR Nagoya Station
Nakatsugawa is a main line station on the Chuo Line. There are regular local (takes 40 minutes, cost 770 yen) and Shinano express trains (takes 27 minutes) to Tajimi. [Here is the route](https://www.google.co.jp/maps/dir/Nakatsugawa+Station,+2-ch%C5%8Dme-1+%C5%8Ctamachi,+Nakatsugawa,+Gifu+508-0033/Tajimi+Station,+2+Chome+Otowacho,+Tajimi,+Gifu/@35.4169664,137.2368431,12z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x601cb449345fa075:0x55b6389b9e6a3907!2m2!1d137.5032204!2d35.5004821!1m5!1m1!1s0x60036a66aefcc1e9:0xbcf87941dacaf335!2m2!1d137.1210416!2d35.3349794) on Google Maps.

# Tajimi Gems – off the beaten path

Tajimi’s historic development is intrinsically connected to pottery. Mino ware is the name of the pottery that developed in the valley where Tajimi is located, historically known as the Mino Province. To transport the wares produced from the precious clay deposits in the surrounding mountains, roads played a vital part. Other gems you can find here is the super dry sake Michizakari and some of the best eel you can eat in Japan. Kiln workers liked to eat eel to regain their strength after long hours of hard labour in intense heat. I have put together a route for you to walk through the local history of this pottery town, which will take no more than an our or two, dinner time included.

## Walk the Nagase Street and the old Shita-kaido road

Here is a [detailed description of the route](https://www.discovertajimi.com/northhistory.html) from a historic perspective. Shita-kaido means “Lower Highway” and refers to the fact that it ran south of the main Nakasendō Highway. It was a popular and convenient route – in fact, a problem for inn owners along the Nakasendō since they lost business to competition in the south. Officials were forbidden to take the path, but they seem to often have done so anyway, because the Nakasendō inn owners filed many complaints to have the traffic stopped.

### Here are a few gems for you along the route:

Directions included

– [Daidoko Yaburegasa](https://goo.gl/maps/fWFpEk1AWw21tRvRA): Immensely popular rustic pub. Many guests are young these days and travel here from Nagoya.

– [Tamaki Liquour Store](https://goo.gl/maps/kFwux2carH9jzPBEA): Small liquor store in Showa-era style where you can buy the local super dry [Michizakari sake](https://www.discovertajimi.com/sake-michisakari.html). I once saw an old man come in here with a Mamushi poisonous snake he wanted to put in a bottle of alcohol(!).

– [Uoseki](https://www.discovertajimi.com/eel-tajimienne.html): One of many popular eel restaurants, this one is conveniently located along your route.

You may also want to try the local snack [Goheimochi](https://www.discovertajimi.com/goheihistory.html). There is a centrally located shop near the station.

There is a fantastic Zen temple in Tajimi, the [Eiho-ji](https://bit.ly/3ieUUyO). Unlike Kyoto temples it offers splendid views without the crowds. You can take part in Zen meditations and a tea ceremony in early mornings (ask for information). Here is a view of the temple park: https://kuula.co/post/7TPjn Here an article about Eiho-ji as a part of the ancient nationwide network of temples and its connection to pottery. https://www.kusanokashiragama.com/ancient_web.html

If you are interested in ceramics, you may be surprised to learn that this area produce a major part of ceramic products in Japan. Here is [a list of places to visit](https://www.discovertajimi.com/treats.html) to explore pottery in Tajimi.

## Returning to Nagoya

Tajimi is half-way back to Nagoya. Take the [JR Chuo Line from Tajimi Station](https://www.google.co.jp/maps/dir/Tajimi+Station,+2-ch%C5%8Dme+Otowach%C5%8D,+Tajimi,+Gifu+507-0037/Nagoya+Station,+1+Chome-1+Meieki,+Nakamura+Ward,+Nagoya,+Aichi/@35.2391366,136.9192787,12z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x60036a66aefcc1e9:0xbcf87941dacaf335!2m2!1d137.1210416!2d35.3349794!1m5!1m1!1s0x600376e794d78b89:0x81f7204bf8261663!2m2!1d136.8815369!2d35.170915).
The trip takes 42 minutes by local train (680 yen), and 27 minutes by the express Shinano Line.