Hokkaido/ Tohoku Solo Travel Advice

Hi everyone!

I’m a solo traveler, planning a 19 day trip to northern Japan from the end of January to mid February. I’m looking for two things on this trip: a snowy, open air onsen experience (a là ryokan, if possible?) and visiting historic, rural towns/ villages (anything on the Hida, Takayama – Shirakawa-go scale. Preferably, a ryokan is involved lol).

The main issue I’m encountering is booking a ryokan as a single person (two person minimum). I’ve read that this is common, but am wondering if anyone has experienced otherwise? I also have tattoos, which I know limits things, bath-wise. Any suggestions are appreciated!

If a ryokan is out of the question, I’m still in the market for an outdoor, day-use hot spring. I don’t have much of an itinerary (aka anything higher priority than this), so I’m planning my trip around what my onsen options are. I decided against renting a car, given the time of year I’m going. I’ve read the heavy snow leads to a lot of road closures… So, I know this greatly limits countryside accessibility! That’s the challenge. I’m looking for places train/ bus accessible from Sendai and Sapporo.

My general location plan is:

Day 0-3: Tokyo
Day 4: Fly to Sendai
Day 10: Fly to Sapporo
Day 17: Fly to Tokyo
Day 19: Fly home

My Sendai/ Sapporo timeline isn’t set in stone yet; I plan to adjust it based on what I find in both areas. The only outdoor, day trip onsen I’ve found so far is Zao in Yamagata. It looks to be an easy day trip from Sendai and has great looking snowy baths! I’ve seen it recommended on this thread, too.

That being said, my questions are:

1. What are some good day trips from Sendai and Sapporo? Anything outdoor bath and rural, old building-centric.
2. Is Hokkaido worth spending so much time in without a car? Especially if I’m not too interested in the city? Would my time be better spent in just Tohoku? I’m torn!
3. How do I stay at a ryokan as a single person?!

Thanks for reading through and providing any suggestions! I’ve been to Japan a number of times before, but never as far north as Tohoku/ Hokkaido, or in the dead of winter. I’m super excited to be back. Thanks in advance everyone!

3 comments
  1. If you are going early Feb then try and go to Sapporo when the snow festival is on. If you do go to Sapporo then Otaru is a nice day trip.

    I like Sapporo in winter, mainly because its a snowy city with nice food. But if you aren’t interested in cities then maybe better to spend more time in Tohoku.

  2. Hokkaido is not very accessible without a car if you want to get out of the city. Ski resorts and the main tourist spots like noboribetsu are fine but the rest is gonna be a pain. And tohoku is not much better honestly. It’s off the beaten path for international tourists and Japanese will rent a car.
    If you go to Gifu/takayama instead public transportation is no problem. You can base yourself in takayama and do day trips with the bus. Hirayu onsen for example is tattoo friendly and beautiful in winter. Lots of different outdoor baths. They have some ryokan too, but probably not what you imagine. More like the real Japanese ryokan that are kinda retro and haven’t really been renovated since the 80s 😂
    The big one in hirayu also didn’t say anything about my tattoos.

    For the 2 person rule, just use some of the booking platforms like booking/rakuten. They will show you what’s available for just one person

  3. I don’t believe there are flights from Tokyo to Sendai? It’s like 1.5 hours by Shinkansen…

    Good day trips from Sendai, Yamadera, Matsushima, etc.

    Yes booking ryokans can be tricky as a solo traveler, I know that all too well myself! You’ll just have to try and find them, sadly. I’ve only been to Tohoku & Hokkaido in autumn so don’t have personal experience re onsen in the snow, but Jozenkei onsen near Sapporo is quite good, and are suitable for one person, at least back in the pre covid days!

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