Returned today from two weeks in Tokyo, Karuizawa and Kyoto. Note: I still love Japan after my third visit.
**Observations:**
Masks are pretty much everyone, everywhere, all the time, indoor and out.
Likewise sanitiser, temperature checks and requests to not engage in conversation. (Yep – on signs and over PA announcements.)
Buy some local lightweight masks at a Lawsons or pharmacy with non-elastic straps for the sake of your ears. They come in packs of 30 and it’ll be the best purchase you make all trip.
Tourist numbers are still very, very low compared to usual. We were regularly alone or nearly alone in cocktail bars etc which was a tad dull but of course often we enjoyed the lack of crowds.
Flights from Australia there and back were 40% and 60% full. Shinkasen and Narita Express were not busy at all (still have to reserve a seat though for NEX though regardless. No reservation – no access – no flight.)
As a result of zero tourists for two years the Narita Express and Limousine Bus are at much reduced service levels. Narita Express was one-per-hour yesterday afternoon and I’m sure that will catch some folk out. Don’t expect them to respond to quesries or have a good website.
Narita Airport was 75% closed in terms of shops and restaurants and some opened at 4pm to coincide with flights.
In general many restaurants, bars etc are out of business, closing early, opening late, reducing hours etc due to lack of staff and / or clients. Double check before you go anywhere. They are only just getting back into gear for international or local tourism.
Other things – hotel bars, laundries, lounges – are cancelled, closed or reduced as part of Covid precautions. They are REALLY Covid-wary which can really slow down service in cafes etc.
Two of our hotels insisted on plastic gloves at the breakfast buffet which did not create a great morning vibe. They also gave us a little special envelope in which to rest our masks as we ate. Eco madness.
Staff have been laid off and businesses are rehiring and as a result frontline staff were often less experienced than on our previous visits. The chap at the JR stand at Narita Airport had never been asked to issue a JR Pass before. It took a LONG time and a lot of help from his supervisor. I hope they speed up before the hoards descend.
Consider not getting your JR Pass upon arrival, though of course the Narita Express is included in your pass.
Enjoy Japan – we did. But it was different.
10 comments
Good info to get us prepared. Thank you! Our flight is in a week. 😀
Thanks very much for sharing this. We arrive in Tokyo in 42-days, and it’s nice to know what sort of vibe to expect!
Cheers thanks for the write up. We are going in 3 weeks time, will be my 4th visit to Japan.
Which masks are you speaking of, lightweight at Lawsons? How are they different to regular disposable masks?
That sounds really disappointing. I want to go, but I’m not going to put up with all that crap, so I guess it’s going to be even longer before I get to take my family and experience the country.
Edit: good grief, 10 down votes for not wanting to wear a mask outside? Update your “science” guys
This sounds kind of depressing. I hope things have eased up a bit by the time I go in March.
I just left a few days ago after like 18 days in Japan, and I was similarly surprised by just how dead NRT was. Most standalone stores closed, no one at security or immigration, and the open stores practically empty. The omiyage store that used to have lines out the door at all times even a decade ago had just me and one other group in it. The cosmetics store was empty, and the staff practically pounced on me. I’ve been through NRT many many times, and this felt very weird.
The JAL Sakura Lounge was pretty full, though, especially as it got further into the evening. By the time I left, most chairs were filled and the food area was packed. They used to do a self-serve buffet, but they now take your order and plate up your food for you.
I will say that the Keisei Skyliner does not have a reduced schedule, though—or, at least, not an obvious one. It still seems to be running roughly every 20 minutes like before. So it’s another option to try N’EX if you’re going close to the Ueno area.
My flights were similarly low on load. My flight to Japan was before the full re-opening, and I think it was maybe 35% full. My return flight earlier this week was more full, but still not 100%. Maybe 75%?
I just got to Tokyo a few days ago. Honestly, I’m seeing the same amount of tourists as pre-COVID, at least in Shibuya. There are temperature checks when walking into stores or restaurants, but it’s pretty simple, with you standing in front of a tablet to have your temperature checked or getting a reading from the palm of your hand. Takes like 2 seconds and it’s not mandatory in most places I’ve been to. Mask wearing is common and expected, but doesn’t seem to be enforced. Things feel pretty normal in my opinion.
This is strange. I thought Japan was packed with tourists based on the amount of people in this sub who have gone to Japan since it opened or have plans to go?
Wait, so you have to reserve Shinkansen seats even if you have the JR pass? Do you have to pay more for that service?
What was Kyoto like? Were there many tourists when you went? I have been planning to visit the Fushinmi Inari and have been concerned about the “tourist” overcrowding in Kyoto
Can you take your suitcases on the Shinkansen!
Have a trip planned in March and hoping they ease up on the face masks a bit. I don’t mind wearing them indoors like at the train stations etc… but outdoors in a park seems kind of excessive.