Hi all,
I’m planning to finally do the Kumano kodo this year and November seems like the right time to do so. I just have a couple of basic questions that surely you can help me with:
**1)** **Route**: I wanted to do the Nakahechi route to check the main spots, but I was also hoping to go to Koyasan since I’m already there. Is it logistically doable and sensible to do both things? Like finishing the Nakahechi and going there for an extra day (or the other way around)?
I know I could do the Kohechi route, but my priority would be to see the Nakahechi main places. Plus I read it’s tougher and I’m going with more people, so better to keep it nice and easy.
**2) Accommodation**: I understand I can (should) book where to sleep well in advance. Options are mostly the places on the official website, right? Which brings me to my last point:
**3) Gear**: I saw people packing a lot of stuff, but if I plan to stay indoors every night, at least I wouldn’t need to worry about tents, sleeping bags and such, right? Sounds better to travel as light as possible.
Thanks!
9 comments
Sounds lovely. Koyasan can get really really cold in November.
Sounds great! You will love it! I think it is totally possible to do both! You should be able to find a bus to Koyasan pretty easy. If you make it to Koyasan you should really count on at least a full day there. I was there a full day and remember thinking that I wish I had two days. I can’t recommend a place, but the temple stay experience can be really cool. They feed you super healthy food based on the monks diet and you can see and participate in the temple’s rituals. Maybe you could get there early see what you can, stay the night and see a few more things before heading home?
As for the Kohechi rt. I haven’t walked the full length yet, but have walked some parts. I live not to far away. The lodging on the main website will be your best bet, but there are some other places available if you search around. If you have lodging booked every night, there is no reason you will need a tent or sleeping bag. November is a beautiful time of year, as long as a typhoon doesn’t roll through. Bring rain gear just incase. I highly recomend staying in yunomine onsen when you reach The Hongu grand shrine. The Onsen there are fabulous and have a rich history. I agree with your plan on Nakahechi if you want to see the historical locations and have proper lodging. I have walked the majority of Kohechi and love it, but it is definitely a bit more challenging and more about the nature. You can come back and do it next time! How many people will you waln with and whats your time frame?
Koyasan is one of my favourite spots in Japan, definitely worth a visit!
You could spend a couple of days / evenings there, but my last visit I did the following;
Day One;
– arrive early morning, check into your accommodation
– explore during the day
– shojin ryori dinner at your temple lodgings
– walk the Okunoin cemetery at night
Day Two
– early start and attend temple prayer service
– walk the Okunoin first thing, during sunrise
– finish exploring the rest of the temples / sights
I’ve stayed there and done this same itinerary (more or less) three times, and always used this website / service to book my accommodation;
https://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/ryokan-search-results/Mt-Koya/
Enjoy!
Nakahechi is certainly doable in November, although you might want to check in late October for post-typhoon season damage report. And you will get to your chosen accommodation without much of a problem.
With Kohechi – you will probably need more serious hiking and cold weather gear as in late November night-time temperatures at higher elevations can be close to freezing and that following typhoon season damage parts of trail may need basic climbing gear. Also in event of accidents, the help may not arrive until the next day as there are few hikers outside spring season (and much of the trail is outside GSM coverage).
I’ve walked kohechi once and nakahechi twice. I’ve slept basically on the side of the road, but you don’t need to pack much if you staying in a minshuku.
Going from koyasan to the tanabe starting point takes like 5-6 hours by public transportation? I wouldn’t recommend that unless you just enjoy trains and buses. It’s better to either drop koyasan or do small bits of kohechi.
Kohechi is indeed very difficult. There is a bus route fortunately that touches parts of kohechi.
I did exactly this. Although if I’m remembering correctly I couldn’t go straight from Koyasan to the trailhead of the Nakahechi route, I took a train back to Osaka then departed for Nakahechi from there. Either way it’s very doable, enjoy!
Thanks all for your very helpful replies!
Then I think I will focus on the Nakahechi route and that area and maybe go to Koyasan later on. I don’t want to rush it, so maybe that deserves a separate trip (or taking more days off).
I actually did Nakahechi by walking and then took the bus to Koyasan to spend few days there. It was quite a long trip – maybe near 7 hours and I took the bus from Yunomine Onsen town. If you have days to spear – why not but be mindful of the transportation time. In terms of accommodation – I highly recommend that you check out Kiri no Sato lodge at Takahara – one of the small towns along Nakahechi Route. Fantastic views and good food.
You can definitely do both! Just be mindful of the distance for public transit.
I highly recommend the Nakahechi route over the Kohechi route too, you’re right in that it’s the better one, especially the route from Yunomine to Nachi Taisha. Finishing the back breaking hike on the Ogumotori-goe trail and emerging into Nachi is incredible. You can book all the minshuku you need along the way on the kumano travel site. I’ve done the hike a few times and always stay in Chikatsuyu, Yunomine, Koguchi and finally Kii Katsuura. If I were you, maybe do Koyasan first, then take a train or drive yourself to Kii Tanabe. Because of the distance, you’ll probably have to spend a night in Tanabe and set off for the hike early the next morning. You need time to get to a place like Chikatsuyu where you’ll spend the next night.
Hope that helps!