Transgender travel in Japan

Hello everybody, I’m a trans woman going to Japan in winter 2022 to Japan, and I was hoping to find some answers when it comes to things I chills prepare, what to expect for things like Onsen, bathrooms, and airport security. What should I prepare, and what should I expect?
Thank you!
( For the sake of the question, By the time we’re going, I’ll be a year on hormones, and hopefully have changed my passport gender to female )

7 comments
  1. A public onsen is no go, you’ll have to have a private one for yourself.
    You’ll be fine in any other situation though. Japan is a place of minding your own business.

  2. Hi trans woman who’s been to japan a few times here 🙂 There are private Onsens ( 貸切風呂 is what they are referred to as in Japanese knowing this word may make onsen visits easier 🙂 ) you can try this may an easier way to enjoy onsens. As far as airport security I haven’t heard of any bad scenarios for trans people at Japanese airports, espically if the passport is changed they most likely won’t argue it. Bathrooms are tricky whenever I go, unisex toilets are uncommon so if you feel comftable you can most likely go in women’s bathrooms without any issues, passport can help you if anything happens but I think you’ll be okay. I tend to just use my hotel bathroom and hold it for the day admittingly. I hope you have a great time 🙂 For transgender foreigners I think japan is very safe when visiting. Hope that helps

  3. 1, Immigration, airport security and contact with any law enforcement personnel: make sure that your travel document photo makes you identifiable without a second-line check. The same goes for any photo ID you might be using in Japan.

    2. Onsen / sento: generally, unless you are post-op or in a mixed onsen, either follow the biological sex (if you pass for that sex) or stick to private onsens. Be advised that in a mixed onsen (which are located mostly in rural, not very touristy areas) – you would be probably a local gossip for weeks.

    3. Bathrooms: generally, you can use the one for the gender you pass on (although using woman’s bathroom queues in Japan are usually even longer than in western world, as public toilets contain at least a single old type stall, which is avoided like a plague even by modern Japanese woman).

    > hopefully have changed my passport gender to female

    Travel document per ICAO rules contains legal ‘Sex’ of the holder.

  4. For restrooms, in smaller restaurants, izakayas, or cafes there is often only one small, single restroom for men and one for women. Sometimes they are unisex as there just isn’t space or plumbing to allow for multiple restrooms or toilets. So, no worries there as you can just go in one and lock the door behind. If you go in the ‘wrong’ one based on what others assume your gender to be they’ll just guess you are a tourist and didn’t understand which was which … sometimes the foreigner card can be a bit helpful. 🙂

    If you’re not sure about using a typical large, multi-stalled women’s room you can also look for the [multipurpose restroom ](https://accessible-japan.jp/accessibility.html) which is designed for use by people who have physical disabilities and their helpers as they are unisex and it is just one large single room with a locking door. I’ve used them in a pinch when I was overheated and needed to quickly cool off by dousing my head with water. You can find these in large public spaces like airports, some of the bigger subway stations, some museums or larger tourist spots, and large department stores. While these are intended for the handicapped, no one will say anything if you use one. They may just assume you’re a tourist who didn’t see the correct door to the regular restroom.

  5. Going to echo the others. Probably you’re not going to have problems on the daily just because you’re trans, just be sure that by the time you come, your passport gender matches your presentation, or you will have problems in immigration. But as for onsen, if you’re pre-op you will have to get the private onsen, called “kashi-kiri onsen”. If you come in summer though, it is blazing hot with over 90% humidity, so you’ll melt if you’re not used to tropical heat, so be warned! Have fun in Japan!

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