This was my second trip to Japan, and due to limited time-off an inherently fast-paced itinerary. Generally, I allotted one day for each city, arriving around check-in and using the next morning if needed. I planned 1-2 major highlights and also included a short-list of other things I’d have loved to see during my research (much of it through here, thank you r/JapanTravel), with an emphasis on things of natural and historical significance. I woke up around 5-6AM most days, using my prolonged jet-lag to my advantage. It was my first time forwarding luggage and I packed a duffel to use as an overnight bag in between… would recommend this!
**Day 1: Tokyo Arrival**
* Pick-up 7 day Japan Rail (JR) Pass through [https://japanrailpass.net/en/purchase.html](https://japanrailpass.net/en/purchase.html)
* Downloaded Ubigi esim (this worked everywhere & was $17 for 10 GB)
* Narita Express to Tokyo (covered by JR Pass)
* Check into hotel in Ginza (personally love this area, quiet and near Tokyo station)
**Day 2: Day Trip to Nikko**
AM:
* Breakfast: Ekiben Matsuri (Tokyo Station) is popular and has bentos from all over the country- there are even self-heating ones!
* Travel 2 hours (Covered by JR)
* Toshogu Shrine (UNESCO Site) – very crowded, large temple grounds that took 2-3 hours to explore
* [Kanmangafuchi Abyss](http://www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/english/info.html) \- highlight of Nikko. Not well known, stunning walk through the gorge with rows of jizo statues (see link). It’s a 30 min walk from Toshogu Shrine.
PM:
* We took a detour to [Ashikaga Flower Park](https://www.ashikaga.co.jp/flowerfantasy_special2022/en/) on the way back to Tokyo for the winter illuminations- worth it. The souvenir shop was well-stocked and we got fresh strawberries here!
* Back to Tokyo (1.5 hours)
* Dinner at Ginza Kagari (Michelin star tori paitan ramen) – like liquified chicken broth, hearty but not as great as I remembered in 2017
*Places we couldn’t get to:*
* *Kegon Falls – This was cut, factoring the sun setting at 4:30PM and doing the hike along the gorge to see the jizo statues.*
**Day 3: Tokyo** → **Kanazawa**
* Breakfast: Shinpachi Shokudo Shinjuku – this was my favorite meal of the trip. Simple Japanese breakfast with grilled mackerel.
* Forwarded luggage to Takayama
* Travel time: 2.5 hours (Covered by JR)
* Omicho Market for Lunch (lots of fresh seafood, snow crab in season)
* Wandered Higashi Chaya district at night – shops closed, still beautiful
* Note that it takes twenty minutes to walk from place to place in Kanazawa, though there is a loop bus. It did remind me of a “Little Kyoto”.
**Day 4: Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, Takayama**
This was one of my favorite days of the trip. And in retrospect, ambitious! Shirakawa-go took less time than anticipated. Time stamps here to help with logistics.
* 0645 [Kenroku-en Garden](http://www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/english/info.html). One of Japan’s “Three Great Gardens”. Free admission in winter from 0600 – 0745 (before official opening at 0800). We arrived by sunrise to the garden. An hour was perfect to stroll around the grounds which we pretty much had to ourselves!
* 0840: [Reserve Bus](https://japanbusonline.com/en#) to Shirakawa-go. I read about how these buses could be booked up in the peak times of winter. It was half empty when we went in late Nov.
* 1005: Shirakawa-go (UNESCO Site). It was raining, which added to the idyllic charm. The walk to the observatory is a forgiving incline and we saw the tourist buses just arriving when we had finished taking pictures there. The village itself was beautiful to wander in. You can go into some of the gassho houses for a small fee.
* 1130 Lunch at Irori (hida beef skewers A+ here) – we anticipated a wait but there was none!
* 1235 Caught the unreserved bus to continue our journey to Takayama (50 mins). There’s another at 1315 we thought we’d be on initially.
* 1400 Check into our hotel. Our forwarded luggage was waiting in our room.
* 1500 Wander Takayama Old Town – incredible and atmospheric. We had some of the best street food here. Don’t miss out on hida beef sushi at Hida Kotte Ushi. Found Cremia soft-serve here as well!
* Forward luggage to Tokyo
*Places on the list but not done:*
* *D.T. Suzuki Museum (Kanazawa) – philosopher famous for bringing Zen teachings to the Western world*
* *Hida-Furukawa – A 15 min JR ride from Takayama famous for its koi-ridden canals and also for the train station scenes in the movie, Your Name.*
**Day 5: Takayama** → **Nagano**
This was a long travel day, as anticipated. It takes 3.5 hours from Takayama to Nagano. Other itineraries do the route starting with Nagano, and ending in Kanazawa, but we had some things booked before considering this.
* 0800 Travel to Nagano Station, with lunch break in Toyama
* 1230 Travel to Snow Monkey Park (Express bus), where our ryokan was based
* Drop off bags at ryokan
* 1430 Snow Monkey Park – I think we got lucky. We spoke to another visitor who mentioned that his guide said the monkeys didn’t come out in large numbers in the morning. By going near the end of the day, it got cold and windy and we had the fortune of seeing them in the onsen!
* R&R at our ryokan with dinner provided
*Short-list:*
* *Re-opening after our travel dates: Ryuoo Sora Terrace & Skyland Express Ropeway to view “sea of clouds”*
**Day 6: Back to Tokyo (Shinjuku Area)**
* 0730-0830 breakfast at ryokan
* Travel to Tokyo (1.5 hours)
* Lunch at Fuunji for tsukemen (15 min wait, moved quickly)
* Check into hotel in Shinjuku, retrieve forwarded luggage
* PM: Open evening. We grabbed yakitori, wandered around Shinjuku, and went up to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for a free 45th floor view of the city and turned in early.
**Day 7: Tokyo/Departure**
* Train to Tokyo Station, store luggage in coin lockers near Narita Express Arrival/Departure Area (plenty of large lockers open)
* 1100-1200 teamLab Planets – this is simply a must-do. There are maybe 4-5 exhibits in the first part and 2 exhibits in the second, so a much shorter experience than what we thought!
* 1215 pressed my luck and walked to nearby Toyosu Market (this is where part of Tsukiji fish market moved). Got in line for sushi daiwa and in by 1230. Had the 7 course omakase
* 1500 Arrive at the airport with the Narita Express, last minute souvenir shopping
* 1800 Flight back to the States
Happy to answer any questions!
2 comments
This is amazing and you covered a lot with that amount of time , thanks for sharing. We will be staying near Tokyo Station and really appreciate the ideas, restaurants you mentioned at Tokyo Station and for Toyosu. – is there a best time to go to the fish market and would you know what time the restaurants there usually open etc ? Many thanks!
I am essentially two days in takayama. What do you think I must do. Is Hida takayama worth the ride ?
Thanks for your report. Was a Great read. Despite the 6 days only it was full of adventour