This trip isn’t booked yet, but I’ve been picking at researching it since summer of 2019 (and was planned for 2020/2021, alas.) This was put together through trawling this subreddit, the internet, Google maps, etc. for ideas and a lot of checking travel routes, haha! It’s definitely grown into a monster of a trek across northern Kyushu. I have a pretty fast natural pace and the coming back is worse for me than the getting there. But, if some things seem simply insane definitely point them out to me. (Especially looking at Fukuoka, it’s been hard finding a balance.)
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Timing: I’m looking at going mid-March to early April, flying out from Texas.
Notes:
* I’m a history nerd, so this trip is museum heavy.
* I collect goshuin, so this trip is shrine & temple heavy.
* I collect anime figures, but it’s not a focus on this trip.
* I’m a big sento/onsen fan and have no tattoos. Recommendations are appreciated!
Specifically looking for help on:
* Any glaring transit issues I’ve over looked on public transit days or glaring issues with timing.
* Suggestions in **Arita**. I want to go there, but don’t have a specific goal in mind other than its local major shrine and maybe some inexpensive porcelain for gifts. Any good rummage stores?
* Restaurant suggestions in **Kumamoto**, especially for regional specialties.
* Restaurant suggestions in/around **Saga** for Saga wagyu.
* Neat shrines or temples that I’m missing! Especially if they have goshuin or fun omamori!
* Personal experiences with the places listed, was it worth it to you? Would you suggest something else?
* **Accommodation suggestions.**
* Ryokan suggestions. I have my heart set on Sanga Ryokan, but backups are appreciated.
Things I’ve ruled out:
* **Gunkanjima**. I may go to the museum if it can squeak in on Day 14, but the ferry/trip out there isn’t worth the time investment for what you get out of it to me.
* **Beppu**. Originally it was a halfday crammed in with Yufuin. I have a second trip planned to Kyushu that gives it the time it deserves.
* Karatsu, Kitakyushu, Oita. Included on the same return trip as Beppu.
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**Very detailed version of the itinerary:** [Google Drive](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qOUD-qzJRg_xNfEPwGRi660QiUQgQgOkWIr__y5C7qo/edit?usp=sharing) & [Map](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1Wfsh_urBu_MCkgbsisvU-zGTGw08Bv49&usp=sharing)
A version of this itinerary without the drive by locations/quick stops:
**Day 1: Arrival**
* *Fly into FUK*
**Day 2: Fukuoka**
* Genkoborui Iki-no-Matsubara
* Ohori Park (+Fukuoka Castle & Gokoku Shrine)
* Sumiyoshi Shrine
* Hakata Teramachi
* Kushida Shrine
* Canal City Hakata (evening)
**Day 3: Fukuoka**
* Nanzoin
* Miyajidake Shrine
**Day 4: Fukuoka**
* Dazaifu Tenmangu
* Tenkai Inari Shrine
* Kyushu National Museum
* Tenjin (early evening)
**Day 5: Yanagawa (Rental Car)**
* *Pick up Rental Car*
* Nyoirin Temple
* Suitengu
* Yanagawa
* *Drive to Kumamoto*
**Day 6: Kumamoto (Rental Car)**
* Kumamoto Castle
* Suizenji Jojuen Garden
**Day 7: Aso/Takamori (Rental Car)**
* *Drive to Aso*
* Aso Shrine
* Kamishikimi Kumanoza Shrine
* Takamoriaso Shrine & Shirakawa Spring
* *Drive to Takachiho*
**Day 8: Takachiho (Rental Car)**
* Takachiho Shrine
* Takachiho Gorge
* Ama no Iwato
* Kagura (evening)
**Day 9: Kurokawa (Rental Car)**
* *Drive to Kurokawa/Oguni*
* Daikanbo Lookout
* Nabegataki Park
* Kurokawa Onsen
**Day 10: Yufuin (Rental Car)**
* *Drive to Yufuin*
* Yunotsubo Street
* Yuguin Floral Village
* Kinrin Lake
**Day 11: Saga (Rental Car)**
* *Drive to Saga*
* Yoshinogari Historical Park
* Saga Shrine
* Saga Castle
**Day 12: Kashima>Arita>Takeo (Rental Car)**
* Yutoku Inari Shrine
* Arita
* Takeo Shrine
* Takeo Onsen (evening)
**Day 13: Nagasaki (Rental Car)**
* *Drive to Nagasaki*
* Nagasaki Bio Park
* *Drop off Rental Car*
* Dejima
* Nagasaki Chinatown (evening)
**Day 14: Nagasaki**
* Nagasaki Teramachi
* Confucius Shrine
* Glover Garden & Oura Church
* Fuku no Yu (evening)
**Day 15: Nagasaki**
* Suwa Shrine
* Nagasaki Museum of History?
* Sanno Shrine
* Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum & Peace Park
* Mt. Inasayama (evening)
**Day 16: Departure**
* Fly out NGS
8 comments
Fukuoka City Museum is a really nice history museum, I see it on your map but not in the itinerary. What you do not have is Yatai in Nakasu island, go there at least for one dinner.
You are probably not really into art if you do not have TeamLab in either Fukuoka or Takeo Onsen.
I guess the Google map have not been updated as you still have Beppu.
While having a car is likely a good idea for some of the spots, I feel that the itinerary is built to use a car. My next trip I also want to go to Kyushu and include several of the places you want to visit, but I was not even thinking about renting a car.
The most famous food from Kumamoto didn’t cluck before it became dinner. It didn’t moo or oink either. It neighed. And while you will see horse cooked different ways the most famous is basashi, served raw. If you’re cool with that, it’s quite good! I’ve eaten it many times myself, my wife being from Kumamoto. Just learn the kanji 馬刺し or just 馬 for horse and you’ll find plenty of places serving it in Kumamoto and around Aso.
When you’re in Aso, though, I’d first seek out the local aka-ushi beef. There’s at least one restaurant on the road in that specializes in it, served yakiniku style. Also when your in Aso stop at the overlook (daitambo?) — it’s pretty. Aso is cool.
On the less cool side I’d skip Saga unless you have a strong reason to go there. It’s not really worth it IMO. If you want to go there I’d just go on one of your days in Fukuoka. It’s right there and half a day is enough to see a castle and eat a steak. I might add that day in Beppu instead. Never been there so I don’t really know.
One big advantage of changing up your itinerary: If you drive straight from the Kumamoto area to Nagasaki you can take what I’d consider an epic scenic route of a drive by going out to Amakusa, over its five famous bridges and on to the car ferry at Oniike to the Shimabara peninsula. From there you can drive around Mt. Unzen or beeline along the twisty coastal road straight to Nagasaki. It might be the nicest drive on a rather long road trip.
When you’re in Nagasaki go to the big Chinese restaurant at the bottom of the hill below Glover Garden and get the champon. It is the originator of this, Nagasaki’s most famous dish. You can also get it at any ringer hut, which by fast food standards is pretty good.
Going back to Fukuoka, of course Hakata ramen is the thing to eat there. I’d also recommend trying ramen when you’re in Kumamoto though to compare. They’re totally different takes on the same tonkontsu base. Personally I like the oily, garlicky Kumamoto style.
That’s all I’ve got. Have fun!
This looks like an excellent trip! Yoshinogari is one of the most unique spots I’ve been to in Japan. I think you’ll quite like it.
In Arita, have lunch at the cafe in Gallery Arita. They have walls and walls of porcelain tea cups and you pick your favorite cup for your tea.
In Fukuoka, definitely go to a yatai restaurant! I also recommend Mt. Sarakura, which I talk about a bit in my Fukuoka + Beppu trip report here[January 2020 Kyushu Trip Report](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/n6fguk/january_2020_trip_report_fukuoka_beppu/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share)
Kurokawa Onsen is definitely worth it. Absolutely wonderful time. I stayed at Misato Ryokan and both their indoor and outdoor onsens were amazing. I also got the breakfast which was definitely worth it. Also got the rotenburo pass and definitely recommend trying the onsens Shinmei-kan, they were the highlight for me.
Depending on your purpose for going to Arita, perhaps check out the nearby town of Okawachiyama and Imari? I personally am into pottery and went on a little pottery town spree, and Okawachiyama is geographically one of the more interesting ones. If you’re not a fan of porcelain (I’m personally not haha) then you can definitely skip it – it’s a hit or miss place. Cheap porcelain stores were a bit hard to find – at least in Okawachiyama it’s all semi-prestigeous or whatnot stores that I personally couldn’t justify spending for. But it’s subjective and I personally am more interested in learning about the history of certain techniques and styles, rather than purchasing.
tldr: unless you’re actually interested in porcelain, imari/arita can be passed pretty easily. With the exception of [the shrine with porcelian torii](https://goo.gl/maps/N1KH7iLNjWHkmsUn8).
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Jealous of your rental car! I just took the bus everywhere hahaha
Nice to see another Kyushu trip here. Miyajidake is my local shrine, I live about 10 minutes away from it.. I definitely recommend it as it’s popular but also quiet and not so tourist a lot of the year. It should be quite easy to get to from Fukuma station. Not sure about public transport to it as I drive everywhere but it’s close enough that even a cab ride should not be too expensive. If you are driving, then take Route 3 and not 495 as it’s quite a bit faster.
Be sure to give enough time to make it to all the small shrines at Miyajidake, one of them is literally up the mountain, though I have not made it to that one yet.
Right next to Arita is another pottery town called Hasami which I highly recommend! Points of interest are nishi no hara, yakimono koen, and the Nakao area
Nagasaki museum of history and culture is a great one, would recommend if you have the time. Nagasaki is a wonderful city. I’m glad you have planned more than just the bomb museum (I guess it goes without saying but it’s very heavy, maybe go to a mall like coco walk or amu plaza to decompress after, or go up to the Peace Park)
If you’re going to Suwa shrine and Sofukuji, you could go to megane bashi bridge on the way to/from either. It’s the oldest stone arch bridge in Japan, and just a real nice spot. The shopping arcade a few streets over, Hamanomachi, has some fun shops and plenty of dining options, as do the streets around the bridge.
I haven’t been back to Nagasaki since before the pandemic, but if you have any questions I can try to answer. I love that city so much.
You might want to consider [Atago Jinja](https://atagojinja.com/) in Fukuoka. There are two Atago Jinja, one in Tokyo and one in Kyoto so if you’ve been to either of those or plan to go, it might be nice to have also been to the Fukuoka one. It’s up a hill with a lovely view across Fukuoka city.