[Trip Report] 10-day romantic trip: Tokyo/Kyoto/Hiroshima/Miyajima/Osaka/Hakone

I just took my gf on a romantic 10-day trip in Japan and had an absolute blast!

I posted our Itinerary Check a few weeks ago [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/ys0irh/itinerary_check_10day_romantic_week_in_japan/) and got absolutely obliterated by the commmunity for an admittedly very packed schedule.

We took some of the feedback but said YOLO to a lot of it, and it turned out near perfect. I should caveat that I’d been to Japan previously a dozen times or so for work, and we are both pretty experienced travelers, so we were able to get into the swing of things easily.

Thought I’d post our final trip in case others find it useful — I’d recommend it to anyone, and easy to chop things out for anyone who wants to take it a bit easier
___

Prep before:

* Obviously, all of the Japan quick-entry COVID requirements
* JR 7-day pass (limited use in Tokyo, so we activated it right after our first leg)
* Pre-booked all JR pass tickets
* Carry-on only + 1 personal bag apiece (makes it much easier to be mobile and use JR etc). November weather was mild, 50s at its lowest, so jeans + shirt + sweater/jacket + sneakers/boots sufficed for the trip.
* Got flights on United between US and NRT with points; had to fly out of NRT to get a non-stop to EWR
* Similarly, booked all hotels but 2 ryokan nights on Marriott points — asked the concierges in each city to get us into our chosen restaurants (Michelin + top Tabelog ranks) 2-3 months in advance. Food was basically our only cash spend outside of trains, so we didn’t mind splurging.
* We took Ubers everywhere, especially in Kyoto, that wasn’t a very easy subway. Honestly, added a negligible cost to the trip, <$200 total
* Bought Hakone Free Pass
___
**D0: Thu, 11/17: Flight from SFO**

* 10:30am – flight from SFO
___
**D1: Fri, 11/18: Tokyo, Arrival – Shibuya + Dinner**

* 2:50pm – Land in Haneda
* 3:30pm – Travel from Haneda to Shinagawa Station (QR code was fast, we were on the train within 30 minutes)
* 4:00pm – Travel from Shinagawa Station to Hotel (15 min metro)
* 5:00pm – Check in to [Prince Gallery Hotel](https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/tyolc-the-prince-gallery-tokyo-kioicho-a-luxury-collection-hotel/overview/)
* 5:30pm – Walk to Shibuya, hopped up to the top floor at Starbucks quickly for a look at Shibuya Crossing
* 7:00pm – Drinks & Snacks at [SG Low](https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13255755/) (20 min subway) – great cocktails and good small apps
* Walk to dinner
* 8:30pm Dinner at [Namikibashi Nakamura](https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13059986/) – we were the only foreigners here, and we had pre-ordered the prix fixe. That said, I wish we had done a la carte so we could order the specials and what we saw others getting. Amazing izakaya meal in any case, sat directly at the counter in front of the open kitchen.
___
**D2: Sat 11/17: Ginza, Roppongi**

* 9:00am – Breakfast @ hotel
* 10:00am – Walk from hotel to Imperial Palace (30 mins)
* 10:30am – Stroll around the Imperial Palace
* 11:00am – Walk from Palace to Lunch in Ginza
* 11:30am – Lunch at [Kondo](https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13004993/) – This was delicious but a very heavy meal
* 1:00pm – 3:00pm – Explore Shinjuku \_\* Hanazono Shrine !!!!\* Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden !!!!\* Drinks @ Park Hyatt
* 4:00pm – Explore Ginza
* 6:30pm – Drinks @ [Mixology Salon](https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13206404/)
* 8:00pm – Dinner @ [Ryugin (fusion 3\* Michelin)](https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1301/A130102/13001457/) – Incredible, but not for the light-hearted.
* 11pm – Cocktail at [Bar Yu-Nagi (fruit cocktail bar)](https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13203236/)
* 12:00am – Quick drink with friends, reserved a table at [1OAK](https://www.instagram.com/1oaktokyo/?hl=en)
* 1am – Leave to go back to hotel
___
**D3: Sun, 11/20: Akihabara, Asakuza**

* 10:00am – Breakfast @ hotel
* 10:30 – Stroll around Akasaka Palace near hotel
* 11:30 – Travel to Roppongi for lunch
* 12:00pm – Lunch at [Kawakamian in Azabu](https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13252601/) – delicious, top-notch but simple soba meal
* 1:00pm – Hop up to Shibuya and go to Meiji Jingu
* 3:00pm – Explore Harajuku and Ometesando Yoyoji Park
* In Harajuku, went to a gorgeous coffee shop [カフェ・ヴォルール・ドゥ・フルール](https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1318/A131802/13013044/) recommended by a friend
* 5:00pm – Walked up to Nishiazabu for dinner, stopped for a drink at one of the most incredible cocktail bars I’ve ever been to in the world, no joke. [bar cafca](https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130602/13150639/dtlrvwlst/) with an insane bartender/owner, had a great time to prep us for…
* 6:00pm – Dinner @ [Sushisho Masa (55 courses – sushi and others)](https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13016512/) — easily the highlight of the trip.
* 9:00pm – Night cap at the Park Hyatt – New York Bar. My happy place.
___
**D4, Monday, 11/21: Tokyo exploring**

* 9:00am – Breakfast @ hotel
* 11:00am – Asakusa exploring
* Senso-ji Shrine
* Sumida Waterfront Park
* Ameyayokocho/Nakamise – shopping street
* 1:00pm – Lunch @ [Nodaiwa (unagi)](https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1318/A131802/13001396/) – absolutely perfect, Michelin-starred unagi meal (though a bit pricey for lunch)
* 2:30pm – Akiharbara afternoon, maid cafes, crepes, etc.
* Activated & Picked up JR Pass
* 6:30pm – Travel to Ginza for Drinks & Dinner
* 7:00pm – Drinks in Ginza @ Memento Mori
* 8:00pm – Walk to dinner 8:30pm – Dinner in Ginza @ [Hakkoku](https://www.tableall.com/restaurant/105) (Traditional Omakase) – perfection. Very traditional compared to the last night.
___
**D5, Tuesday, 11/22: Kyoto & Arashiyama**

* 7:00am – Breakfast
* 7:30am leave for shinkansen
* 8:03am train to Kyoto
* 10:40am – Arrive at [Mitsui Hotel](https://www.hotelthemitsui.com/en/kyoto/)
* 11:00am – quick snacks at [Nishiki market](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3931.html)
* Uber up to Kinkakuji Temple
* Uber to Arashiyama
* **Arashiyama Forest**
* Bamboo grove
* Daihikaku Senkoji temple
* Tenryu-ji temple
* Monkey Park (great)
* Jojakkoji
* Giō-ji
* Otagi
* 5:30pm sharp – Hogonin Temple illumination (beautiful)
* 7:00pm – Uber to Kiyomiza-dera, illumination there, walk over to dinner
* 8:30pm – Dinner at [Onikai](https://tabelog.com/en/kyoto/A2601/A260201/26002004/) – fantastic
___
**D6, Weds, 11/23: Kyoto**

***Kyoto ● Fushimi Inari Taisha ● Temples ●***

* 6:00am – wake up, throw on sweats, Uber over to Fushimi Inari
* Hiked the gates, walk over to Tofukiji (beautiful gardens)
* 9:15am – Uber to Mitsui for relaxed breakfast and onsen
* 12:00pm – Lunch at [Kikunoi Hoten](https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/kyoto-region/kyoto/restaurant/kikunoi-honten) (3\* Michelin)
* Nanzen-Ji
* Shinnyo-do & Konkai Koumyouji (adjacent)
* Yasaka Shrine
* Kodai Ji through illumination
* Chion-in illuminatoin
* **8pm** Dinner: [Yangasu](https://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2601/A260202/26033026/) (Japan, 〒604-0874 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Shimizucho, 381 Kスタジオ 1F) – this was awful. They were clearly trying too hard, and we found the food tough to eat. Avoid at all costs.
___
**D7, Thursday 11/24: Himeji, Miyajima**

* 8:00am – Breakfast at hotel in Kyoto
* 8:30am – Train to Himeji
* 9:20am – Himeji Castle
* 12:15pm – Train to Hiroshima (w/ transfer in Okayama)
* 1:30pm – Arrive in Hiroshima & transit to Miyajima via JR train + ferry
* A couple hours walking around Miyajima, got some oysters and eel buns
* 4:30pm – Arrive at Kinsuikan Ryokan (5pm latest) – sunset pictures in front of the Tori
* 6:00pm – Dinner at Ryokan
* 8:15pm – Night cruise tour
___
**D8, Friday, 11/25: Hiroshima, Osaka**

* Breakfast at Ryokan in Miyajima
* Direct ferry to Miyajima Peace Park (not JR – paid out of pocket)
* Peace Park, Castle, etc.
* Okonomimura
* 2:30pm – Shinkansen to Osaka
* Check in to St. Regis Osaka
* Head over to Namba/Dotonbori
* Knife shopping at Sennichimae Doguyasuji
* Food stalls on Dotonbori — Mizuno for okonomikyaki, takoyaki at Creo-re
___
**D9, Saturday, 11/26: Hakone**

* 8:18am JR shinkansen to Hakone
* 10:50am Tozan line from Odawara to Gora Station
* 12pm check into [Gora Kadan](https://www.gorakadan.com/rooms/?lang=en) ryokan
* Lunch at Gyoza Center
* Hakone Free Loop — cable car, ropeway, pirate cruise, bus back
* Pre-dinner onsen in our suite at the ryokan
* Kaiseki dinner
* Post-dinner onsen
___
**D10, Sunday 11/27: Back home**

* Morning – onsen + breakfast
* Train to Narita
* Home!

6 comments
  1. Thanks for posting. How long did the Fast Track process take, did you use a regular US vaccination card, and what else did you have to do upon arrival? I’m a bit nervous and can’t find a ton of info. Also, how long did it take to clear customs/get bags at NRT?

  2. Awesome, thorough recap! The cost of ubers, especially considering your frequency, might push me toward using more ubers during my/my wife’s trip early next year. Great food recommendations, we’ll definitely have to steal some of your restaurant choices, too.

    Judging from the itinerary, seems like jetlag didn’t hit y’all too bad. How were you able to manage on that front?

  3. Very nice report. Sounds like you had a great time.

    Damn, you really ate at some very interesting and well renowned restaurants. Sadly, even if Michelin star restaurants were in my budget, I only planned my trip about a month in advance, so there’s no way I could booked those restaurants in time for my trip.

    Given that Japan didn’t fully allow tourism until mid October, did you have your hotels and flights booked before you knew exactly when they were opening up?

    I also didn’t know concierges could help you book restaurants before you even got there, but I’ve also probably never stayed at hotels as nice as the ones you were at lol.

    Also agreed that Kyoto’s subway system was kind of useless for us. Fortunately, our ryokan was close to several bus stops that could take us to a lot of attractions (Gion, Arashiyama, Nijo Castle, Kyoto Sta) without transferring. The only time we used the subway in Kyoto was to get to Fushimi Inari.

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