If you’re in the Tokyo area in February and craving a taste of spring try taking a day or overnight trip to the Izu Peninsula to see the early cherry blossoms (Kawazu Sakura). We did this as an overnight trip one weekend in February 2021 and loved seeing the cherry blossoms here blooming a full month earlier than the regular trees. We are currently based in Japan, tourist entry is not yet permitted, but I hope this trip report is helpful for future planning.
Update: We visited the Izu Peninsula in mid-February again in 2022 and I’ve added in a few more spots below from our second trip.
About Kawazu Sakura: The 8,000 sakura trees in Kawazu, a town in Shizuoka Prefecture are some of the earliest blooming in Japan. Depending on your means of transportation, Kawazu is about 2~2.5 hours from Tokyo Station. It’s a great destination for an overnight trip if you plan on being in Tokyo for several days. Unlike the sakura of Tokyo and Kyoto which typically bloom around late March, the sakura trees of Kawazu bloom in early February, and the blossoms last for about a month.
– [DigJapan: The Early Blooming Sakura of Kawazu](https://digjapan.travel/en/blog/id=10030)
– [Matcha: View the Cherry Blossoms Early ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/7140)
– [JapanGuide: Kawazu Sakura Festival](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6314.html)
– [Kawazu Tourist Association ](https://www.kawazu-onsen.com/eng/)
There’s also lots more to see/do on the Izu Peninsula and it’s beaches are very popular in summer. There’s also a great Plum Blossom Festival in Atami so you could see early cherry blossoms and plum blossoms in the same trip.
– [JapanGuide: Izu Peninsula ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6310.html)
– [JapanGuide: 10 Places to Visit in Izu ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6310.html)
– [Relax Your Body and Soul in the Izu Peninsula ](https://japan-magazine.jnto.go.jp/en/1602_izu.html)
– [Atami Plum Blossom Festival ](https://www.kyuhoshi.com/atami-baien-ume-matsuri/)
Getting There: We are currently based in Japan so drove but Kawazu can be easily accessed via train from central Tokyo. If you take limited express trains you can get all the way to Shimoda from Tokyo using the [JR Tokyo Wide Pass ](https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/pass/tokyowidepass.html)or other JR East Passes.
– [JapanGuide: Getting To and Around the Izu Peninsula ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6305.html)
– Note that the local public buses that you use to get to the trailheads/bus stops noted below didn’t take Suica/IC cards when we were there so you will need cash in Japanese Yen to pay. Be sure you have small bills/coins available to pay.
Update: What We Did in 2022
On our second trip, we stayed in Shimoda for 2 nights and visited Minami-Izu, Kawazu Town, and Atami to see the Kawazu Sakura (early cherry blossoms) at different points.
__Lodging in 2022: [Seiryu-so Inn ](http://www.booking.com/Share-ZOH0Lk)__
We spent two nights here in mid-February as we wanted to see the early cherry blossoms in Minami Izu and Kawazu. It was a great choice as the weather was cold and rainy so we were able to warm up in the heated outdoor pool, saunas, and onsen after sightseeing. We got a basic tatami/futon room with in-room sink/toilet but no in room shower. We did not include meals. It was great for us as the room was large with a seating area overlooking the river and we declined cleaning so we could sleep in and relax in our room during the morning. There was a humidifier and fridge in the room. Even though we declined cleaning, they gave us a tray with fresh towels, yukata, and toiletries for our second day.
The highlight is the outdoor pool heated with onsen water, Finnish sauna, and Thermarium Roman tiled sauna/foot bath. You wear swimsuits in the pool and saunas and it’s fun to try them all out. There’s a small child’s pool swim area too. If you have a small tattoo that is covered by your swimwear you should be ok but no large tattoos. The public baths are gorgeous and one side is used by women and one by men from 2:00 pm to midnight and then it switches and you can use the other side from midnight to 11:00 am. So you can try both sides of the onsen even if only staying one night. There is also a private onsen you can reserve for 1,500 yen for 50 minutes or wait until 11:00 pm as it’s free to use from 11 pm until 7:00am the next morning if open. To reserve the private onsen during the paid times just go to the front desk and ask to reserve the (kashikiri) onsen.
The staff didn’t really speak English but it was the low season and my guess is that if we had asked for someone to help us in English they would have tried to accommodate. We used Booking.com to reserve so you can send a message asking if an English speaker is available to help at your checkin time. You can also message them to add meals (extra charge) to your stay. The staff were very kind and patient with my basic Japanese so if you only speak a little bit don’t be shy – they will try their best to understand and be happy you are trying to speak Japanese too.
We drove and parked for free at the hotel but it’s a 5 minute walk from Rendaji Station so easy access by public transit.
*No wi-fi access in your room! Wi-fi only available in the lobby!*
__[2022 Visit to Minami Izu Cherry Blossoms ](https://digjapan.travel/en/blog/id=12256)__
These were the best blossoms we saw. The article linked above tells you how to get there by train but we drove and parked at the [Yunohana Roadside Station (500 JPY fee). ](https://goo.gl/maps/uQ31KTnikt6QTYHR7) Buy a bento and gave a picnic lunch by the river under the trees. There’s also a large field of yellow rapeseed flowers at the end of the river walk. From Feb 10 – March 10, 2022 the trees are illuminated at night from 6:00 – 9:00 pm.
2022 Update: We tried to visit Kawazu Town but unfortunately due to a late cold snap the trees here were all just budding and not yet in bloom. If you want to see the cherry trees in bloom I’m [Kawazu Town ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/7140) it’s probably better to come in the 3rd or 4th week of February.
__[2022 Atami Station Area Kawazu Sakura: ](https://goo.gl/maps/fc1riNnjojLHgtLEA)__ The trees near Atami Station area start blooming in early February typically and by the time we visited on Feb. 14 the trees were in full bloom but the blossoms were just starting to fall. If you come here later in February you may find most of the cherry blossoms finished but there’s lots of [other things to do in Atami. ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/3938)
What We Did in 2021: We drove to the Kawazu Seven Waterfalls area on a Saturday morning and spent one night at the Amagiso ryokan. While there, we enjoyed the outdoor onsen under a waterfall, hiked the Seven Waterfalls trail, hiked up to an old tunnel higher up the mountain, and took tons of photos of the Kawazu Sakura trees under the nearby spiral bridge. It was a nice overnight trip and we loved our stay at Amagiso ryokan. A wonderful way to enjoy an early spring weekend.
[Lodging in 2021: Amagiso Ryokan with Outdoor Waterfall Onsen](https://goo.gl/maps/avqDyKUjDaVzJBpR7)
This was a great location to take in the blossoms under the nearby spiral bridge and to enjoy the Seven Waterfslls hike on Sunday morning. The best parts of our stay here were the free use of the outdoor waterfall onsen area for hotel guests, views of a gorgeous early cherry blossom tree from our room and the women’s indoor onsen, and the huge variety of local seafood and served at dinner and breakfast. We stayed in a basic futon room with toilet/sink but there are more expensive rooms with their own private onsen tubs too. There was a small private onsen inside the hotel that you can freely use (just lock the door behind you) or you can reserve the private outdoor cave onsen at the hotel front desk. To use the outdoor onsen waterfall area you wear a swimsuit as it is mixed gender and tattoos must be covered by your suit. If you have larger tattoos that cannot be covered by swimwear you can use the private indoor onsen or reserve the private outdoor cave onsen at the front desk. This makes Amagiso tattoo-friendly. Free parking available for hotel guests.
There was free WiFi available in our room and a nice lobby/sitting area where you could purchase can of local craft beers. Not much is open in this area at night and there’s no nearby convenience store so it’s best to reserve a room with included dinner and breakfast. There was a small fridge in the room if you want to pick up your own drinks/snacks before getting to the ryokan. Ryokans typically are most expensive for Friday and Saturday night stays but can be less expensive if you book a Sunday or weeknight stay as long as it’s not a [public holiday or long weekend in Japan. ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/3662)
Day Use of Outdoor Waterfall Onsen: If you aren’t staying overnight at Amagiso you can still get a day use ticket for the outdoor onsen at the hotel front desk or (in summer) at the outdoor kiosk next to the waterfall. You wear swimsuits at the outdoor onsen pool next to the waterfall and there are two private baths you can reserve (one indoors one outdoors). Tattoos must be covered by swimsuits. In summer they have large outdoor lap pool open too. Bring your own swimsuit/towel or rent from hotel. Admission fee (normal: adults 2,000 yen, elementary school students 1,500 yen, preschoolers 1,000 yen), rental set (face towel, bath towel, swimwear) (normal: 500 yen), consumption tax. This would be a great way to cool off/relax at the end of the waterfall hike (see below); particularly in summer when it’s very hot.
– [Amagiso Day Use Onsen: Open in Chrome to translate to English](https://www.asoview.com/channel/ticket/H6SmzwzYG0/ticket0000003481)
Kawazu Seven Waterfall Hike: This is an easy hike along a paved pathway that will lead you to seven waterfalls. The last waterfall at the bottom is the waterfall in the outdoor onsen area at Amagiso ryokan (see above). You can get here via bus from Kawazu Station or Shugenji Station or, if driving, there are parking lots available near the [tourist info center. ](https://goo.gl/maps/CKBk9m5a2JHRRrieA) You can also pick up a free map of the waterfall area at the info center. You don’t really need a map though as the trail is well marked and paved with (lots) of well maintained stairs. There are signs for each waterfall and you can collect stamps at each so bring a notebook/paper to collect (fun for kids). Not stroller friendly.
To see all seven waterfalls, start at top and work your way down. There are lots of stairs. If unsure of small kids/mobility issues, start at the bottom by Amagiso/parking lots and walk up as that part has a bit fewer stairs and you can turn around to come back when tired. There are a couple public restrooms along the path but they are spread out so use one when you see it.
We chose to take the public bus up to the [Mizutari Bus Stop ](https://goo.gl/maps/WJEu6LrStMRdcAuo8) so we could walk down the path and not have to backtrack. We meandered our way down the path and took our time getting back to Amagiso at the bottom (the last waterfall). Much of the path is shaded by trees so even in the height of summer the sun won’t be too bad but you will take quite a few stairs to get from the path to all the waterfalls. It’s not strenuous though and in the busy summer season there will be some shops/stalls open along the bottom half of the path if you want to get a snack. There are also some vending machines if you need water but come prepared with water and snacks or a bento if you want to sit and eat along one of the waterfalls.
– [JapanGuide: Kawazu Seven Waterfalls and Access](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6313.html)
– [Japan Travel: Kawazu Seven Waterfalls ](https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1278/)
[Kawazu Sakura Under the Spiral Bridge ](https://goo.gl/maps/Tr4BXDZMCu8DjNoAA)
The best early cherry blossom trees we saw were all underneath and along the road by the bottom of the [Kawazu Spiral Bridge ](https://goo.gl/maps/bfTq4GV78fX7YFBk7). There is a small free parking lot here if you’re driving but it’s not a far walk from Amagiso. You’ll drive along the spiral bridge on the bus too when going to the waterfalls and it’s an amazing view so try to sit next to a window. Or, if taking the bus, you can get off at the Nashimoto Bus Stop to take Sakura photos.
Bonus Hike/Drive: [Old Amagi Tunnel ](https://japan-highlightstravel.com/en/travel/mishima/050068/)
Opened in 1905, Old Amagi Tunnel connected Izu City with the town of Kawazu, and was used as part of a community road. Large volumes of people and goods used to pass back and forth through it, until New Amagi Tunnel was opened in 1970. The beautiful design of its stonework showcases the skills of Meiji craftsmen.
Most people drive up to the tunnel but we chose to hike there. If you’d like to do more of a ‘real’ hike than just the paved Seven Waterfalls path and have alllllll day you could start here in the morning and do the seven waterfalls path in the afternoon. Wear good sneakers and have plenty of water as there aren’t any amenities along the path. There is a bathroom near the entrance to the tunnel but it was closed when we were there as it was the off season. We also didn’t have good cell service/data along much of the upper part so map your walking route out first and take screen shots. It’s also a really good idea to stop off at the [visitor’s center ](https://goo.gl/maps/p6eLyX6BbujrsDJ78) first (or ask at the Amagiso front desk) for a free map of the Kawazu Seven Waterfalls area which includes the hiking paths/route up to the Old Amagi Tunnel. Just keep in mind these tourist maps are not to scale and it will take longer than you may think from looking at the map. Starting from the top of the tunnel helps as it is faster/easier going down but plan for this + the seven waterfalls path to take a full day and start in the morning. When done, you’ll enjoy relaxing in the outdoor waterfall onsen even more! You do not want to do this hike in the late afternoon/evening as it gets dark quickly and will be cold at night.
First, take the public bus all the way up the mountain to the [Amagitoge Bus Stop. ](https://goo.gl/maps/yydZDFRDm6j2apS78) in the morning. After getting off the bus, cross the highway and look to the right of the small paved area of the bus stop on this side for the trail up the hill to the Old Amagi Tunnel. There is a trail map sign in front of the path entrance. Don’t use the Google Maps directions which will tell you to walk along the highway. There is a hiking path that goes up to the tunnel from the bus stop area. You’ll take stairs and a dirt path up and cross a couple foot bridges so I wouldn’t do this if it’s raining hard or the day after a heavy rain as the foot bridges may be under water.
You’ll hike up to [this side of the Old Amagi Tunnel. ](https://goo.gl/maps/E6135t4WQ9JbpUdr6) The bathroom is on this side. You can then walk through the tunnel but be aware that cars will drive through here too so you may need to scrunch up against the wall as they drive through. Again, most people drive through here in their own car but you can walk through too just be aware/careful. It’s fun to sing through the tunnel to hear the echoes.
You can then either backtrack and go back to the bus stop to take the bus back down to the [Mizutari bus stop ](https://goo.gl/maps/GTEeAGrLTZcoNBNP9) which is the trail head for the Kawazu Seven Waterfalls hike. Or, again only if you have all day and the weather is good, continue to hike on foot down the mountain. The plus is that you’ll likely have the path all to yourself through the forest trees which is nice (except for some passing cars). The negative is you are all on your own with no amenities or bathrooms til you get a good ways down the mountain. But, it’s not really a hard hike down and kinda cool to be out in nature and away from crowds.
After [exiting on the other side of the Old Amagi Tunnel ](https://goo.gl/maps/U8V5FrSbwkQfJPG87) follow the dirt road down the mountain. You should map walking directions from this side of the tunnel to the [Nikai Waterfall Observation Deck ](https://goo.gl/maps/fWrA4AN6kkt83v8J9).
From the Nikai Waterfall, follow the signs/path down to the [Nikai Waterfall Parking Lot. ](https://goo.gl/maps/gm1jm5FU9XgWz6vW7) There’s a public restroom here and also a bus stop if you’re done hiking through the trees and want to take the bus down to the [Mizutari Bus Stop ](https://goo.gl/maps/GTEeAGrLTZcoNBNP9) which is the trail head for the Kawazu Seven Waterfalls hike. This is what we did.
Or, if you want to continue hiking all the way down, cross the highway and follow the hiking path down along the river which should (eventually) connect up with the Kawazu Seven Waterfall path. There should be brown trail signs/markers pointing out where to go. We didn’t do this portion so I’m not sure what it’s like. On the way down you should pass by [Hiramame Falls ](https://goo.gl/maps/TVJfCufe7uQQ4rHt9) and then [this area ](https://goo.gl/maps/wKofJumn92DsXH5VA) before linking up with the seven waterfalls area at [Surata Fuchi. ](https://goo.gl/maps/Aaa27RrVQmnbxsC9A). If you look at the photos in these Google Maps pins you’ll see some of the trail signs and little bits of the path.
[2022 Update Pikiniki Sandwiches ](https://goo.gl/maps/VahUZ4iDuEq14C8t6)
If you continue up the highway past the Amagi Tunnel area, by car or by bus, you’ll reach the [Joren Falls area. ](https://goo.gl/maps/oPbMpe4WtB1Bgt6L9) Right nearby the bus stop is this cute little sandwich and coffee restaurant. They’re sandwiches are really good and on a nice day they have a large grassy outdoor area where you can sit on blankets or chairs to have a picnic. Probably easiest to get to for those with cars but if you make it to the Joren Falls area definitely come here for lunch.
5 comments
Excited for when Americans can visit again!
This is a lovely and really useful trip report – I’ve saved it for our everything crossed trip next year! Thanks for this!
I’ve taken the Odoriko from Tokyo to Shimoda, and I have to say, it’s an absolutely gorgeous train ride. For long stretches the tracks are basically right at the water looking out over the bay.
Shimoda was also a lovely town with very friendly people and a lot of history. I also really recommend visiting Izu, and I’m hoping to get back and do the other side of the peninsula someday.
My husband and I visited Kawazu and Amagiso in February 2020 right before everything went full shutdown, but there was still a ban from China.
Oh my god was it the most beautiful place we’d had the privilege of visiting so far–especially the onsen at night. We had it mostly to ourselves, too.
Kawazu’s festival is also fun and adorable. We got to enjoy the food and the town. Everyone there was just having a great time. The blossoms are beautiful and plentiful, too! Plus it’s right next to the sea if you want to dip your toes in like I like to. 🙂
It kind of sucks because I have thyroid problems