My recent trip

Just back from 21 days touring Honshu with my 18 yo son.
Tokyo(2 nights)-Yudanaka(3)-Matsumoto(1)-Kobe(2)-Hiroshima(2)-Osaka(3)-Kyoto(3)-Tokyo(5).
Great trip overall. Apart from places being closed December 31-January 1, we were able to breeze into temples, shrines, museums, restaurants, and shops with little to no waiting.

We speak nearly zero Japanese, and found that only very basic English was spoken by most people we interacted with. It seemed to me that English proficiency in Japan degraded compared to the last time I visited Tokyo 12 years ago, perhaps due to the absence of visitors during the pandemic. People were generally very gracious and patient and helpful in spite of the language barrier.

At ~¥130:$1 USD exchange rate, the trip was economical – accommodation averaged less than $110/night double occupancy ranging from $300/night in 4 star hotel to $70/n in hostels, to $20/n/p in cubical.
Meals were amazingly inexpensive-fantastic 5 course traditional soba lunch: $10, good diner ramen: $6, fancy shabu shabu w/sake for two: $75. Admission to museums, zoos, aquariums, temples ranged from free to $8.

JR passes were worth the money. We had green car access which paid off during the holiday crush, but I don’t think I would spend the extra $ for it off peak. Suica card was essential – incredibly useful for intra-city transit, vending machines, and many shops.

We used cash and coins a lot more than I anticipated. It seemed to be the preferred or only form accepted by many smaller merchants and restaurants, even in tourist areas. I gave up trying to use Apple Pay after a very low success rate across a variety of establishments, despite the NFC reader on display.

Masking was practiced almost universally, and many establishments take temperature and sanitize hands at their entrance.

Highlights I would recommend to others visiting Honshu :
– Snow monkeys at Jigokudani park – there’s nothing like seeing our evolutionary relatives enjoying an onsen. Go early to avoid crowds.
– morning bath in a neighborhood onsen- bathing in natural hot spring water with locals beginning their daily routine is a great cultural experience for a westerner.
– Matsumoto Castle – at night, the most spectacular display of Winter Illuminations, of which we saw many. By day, a tour of the inside is like stepping back to the 16th century.
– Nada district of Kobe, if you enjoy sake and bohemian environments. A lot of artisans and craft sake Brewers here.
– Shin-Kobe Ropeway – especially if you have an extra two hours at Shin-Kobe station, this is a worthwhile excursion up Rokko mountain in a gondola right next to the station. Walk back down to enjoy the amazing herb garden and nature path along a creek with waterfalls.
– Hiroshima Peace Mall – as an American, it sort of felt like duty to visit. Incredibly thoughtfully designed memorial, which must certainly be humanity’s greatest tribute to peace on Earth.
– Osaka Aquarium – rivals Monterey Bay Aquarium, and they have two stunning whale sharks in the huge main tank.
– Arashiyama in Kyoto – especially the Okochi Sanso Villa and garden, which are immaculately maintained and afford great views of Kyoto.
– Gion district of Kyoto at night- the heart of geiko culture, where you can find great kaiseki
– Kiyomizudera temple and Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto – must see, if you appreciate history, architecture, and culture
– Ueno Park, Tokyo – comparable to NYC’s Central Park and San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, filled with cultural institutions, grand malls, and a world class zoo.
– Banks of Sumida River in Taito, Tokyo at dusk – views of spectacularly illuminated bridges and skyline accompanied by joggers and couples out for a stroll whilst river boats cruise by. Reminiscent of evenings by the Seine or Thames.
– TeamLab Planets in Toyosu, Tokyo – a kind of immersive art amusement park. Book tickets ahead of time. While you’re there, you can continue on to nearby Odaiba, where there are interesting museums and other amusements.

It felt like the Japanese people were exceptionally happy during this holiday season – after almost 3 years of relative lockdown, the big gatherings and traditional rituals back in full swing must’ve brightened the holidays. Or that’s just a tourist’s narrow interpretation. Regardless, it was a great time of year to be there.