Kyoto: Sagano Scenic Train & Hozugawa Riverboat Cruise in Arashiyama

In early December 2020, we took the [Sagano Scenic Railway ](https://livejapan.com/en/in-kansai/in-pref-kyoto/in-arashiyama_uzumasa/article-a2000531/) and [Hozugawa Riverboat Cruise ](https://livejapan.com/en/in-kansai/in-pref-kyoto/in-kyoto-suburbs/article-a2000037/) as part of a day trip to [Arashiyama ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/7428) during our week visiting Kyoto. Most people visit Arashiyama to see the Bamboo Forest, but we chose to make the railway and riverboat cruise the focus of our visit as we wanted to enjoy the scenic fall leaves. This would be an awesome way to spend a pleasant, sunny day in autumn or spring. After arriving in Arashiyama area, you take the scenic train which runs alongside the river and then to return you take a fun and even more scenic riverboat back the same way to return to the Arashiyama area. From there you can keep sightseeing. The train and riverboat cruise are very popular, particularly during fall leaves season the last week of November/early December and in spring. I will note that we are currently based in Japan, tourist entry is still not yet permitted, but I hope this information helps for future planning or for others currently based in Japan.

– [Official Website: Sagano Romantic Sightseeing Train](https://www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/mobile/index_en.php)
– [Official Website: Hozugawa Riverboat ](https://www.hozugawakudari.jp)

We took the 11:02 train departure and had a relaxing and enjoyable ~25 minute ride to the end of the track. Lots of great photo ops and fun going through the tunnels. At the end, you can opt to take other train lines back to Kyoto or the scenic railway back to Arashiyama area as a round trip. We followed the crowd though to hop on the bus for the riverboat departure center. The bus costs 170 yen and you can use Suica/IC cards.

After arriving at the departure center you head upstairs and get in line to get your boat number departure assignments which you need even if you already have tickets. You then have time go to the bathroom or to get a water/beverage from the vending machines and wait til they call your number.

The boat itself is a flat boat with life jackets provided and required to be worn. There were 3 men who guided the boat down the river using long poles. In parts it was calm and relaxing and you might spot a variety of birds and turtles along the banks. In other parts the river narrows and you go swiftly down a series of small rapids but nothing dangerous or too scary. The guide gives lots of information and funny stories but it was all in Japanese. They are so animated though in their descriptions that you can’t help but laugh and it’s a really fun experience. Towards the end you pull up alongside a boat selling tea and snacks before landing back in Arashiyama not far from the [Togetsu Bridge ](https://goo.gl/maps/D8pDhctFzaA51Vug7) and from there you can walk to other nearby sites. The boat ride back is approximately 2 hours.

Getting There: We were already in Kyoto so took the JR San-in line from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama station on a weekday morning. Next door to Saga-Arashiyama station is Torroko-saga Station. This is where you find the counter to buy your train and riverboat tickets. We got there by 10 AM as we aren’t early risers but the earlier in the day you get there the better. That way you finish the riverboat cruise early enough to visit some of the other sites in Arashiyama before they close. The first scenic train departs at 9:02 and you can [view the timetable here. ](https://www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/mobile/timetable_en.php)

– [JapanGuide: Sagano Railway Overview & Getting There ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3965.html)

When To Go: This is a very popular day trip for local Japanese tourists so try to avoid planning this for a weekend day or any [public holidays/long weekends in Japan. ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2062.html) Autumn and spring are ideal times to do this as it won’t be too hot or rainy. Late May – early July is risky as it could be quite rainy so play that by ear dependent on the weather. You can do the train in the rain and the riverboat typically still runs and is covered in the rain but if the river levels are too high due to heavy rain they won’t run the riverboat due to safety. Be prepared for heat/sun with a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen or a UPF shirt as while the water will cool you off a bit it also reflects back at you the intense Japanese sun. I got a little red on my neck cuz I’d neglected to put sunscreen there and it was the first week of December. Bring a bottle of water for the boat ride but don’t overdo it as there’s no bathroom until you get back to Arashiyama. There is a bathroom at the riverboat departure center after you get off the train.

Buying Tickets: Since it wasn’t high tourist season and due to Covid numbers of visitors to Kyoto were low in Dec 2020, we just bought tickets the day of at Tokkoro-saga Station. You buy your train tickets first at the left hand counter and then go to the right hand counter to buy your return riverboat tickets so the times match up.

However, once international tourism reopens Kyoto is going to be packed and super busy. So, it’s a better idea to purchase your train ticket in advance. This is even more important if you want to do this on a weekend or public holidays in Japan. If you haven’t gotten a ticket in advance, don’t despair and try to buy the day of. If they are sold out, you can still spend a super full/enjoyable [day in Arashiyama. ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3950_arashiyama_full.html) To buy tickets in advance you can use these sites:

– [Sagano Railway: Reserve/Purchase Tickets ](https://www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/mobile/reserve_en.php) This article also gives a good overview of how/where to [purchase a ticket. ](https://livejapan.com/en/in-kansai/in-pref-kyoto/in-arashiyama_uzumasa/article-a2000531/)
– The [riverboat company ](https://translation2.j-server.com/LUCHZGWK/ns/tl.cgi/https://www.hozugawakudari.jp/tickets?SLANG=ja&TLANG=en&XMODE=0&XCHARSET=UTF-8&XJSID=0) allows advance reservations only for groups of 10 or more. You can try booking in advance via travel companies like Klook, Veltra, etc. (just Google Hozugawa Riverboat Tickets). But since the only people taking the return riverboat are (typically) those who already have train tickets if you’ve gotten your train ticket in advance you could try to buy the riverboat ticket the day of. Just get to the station as early in the morning as possible to have the best chance of getting the return trip that matches your train ticket. Then you can spend time sightseeing in Arashiyama until your train departure if needed.

After the riverboat we spent the late afternoon/evening sightseeing in Arashiyama but really the train and boat ride were the focus of our day. We stuck around til evening to see the lit up [Kimono Forest ](https://goo.gl/maps/mobLQkcHLJWhchYA6) and took the [old style Randen train line ](https://www.kyotostation.com/the-keifuku-randen-tram-line/) back into Kyoto.

Hope you will be able to enjoy a fun day on the scenic train and riverboat cruise during your future trip to Kyoto too!

Edit: If you’re visiting Kyoto in late-November to early December there are also a number of shrines and temples that do night time autumn leaves illuminations including Hogon-in garden in Arashiyama. To learn more [see my related trip report on Autumn Leaves Illuminations in Kyoto. ](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/mjt5yf/kyoto_autumn_night_illuminations_at_temples_and/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)