My wife and I just returned from the trip of a lifetime. This subreddit was invaluable for helping prepare so thanks to all of you guys. Here are my thoughts:
1/2 – 1/4 (Osaka)
* Airport: Direct flight to KIX from LA. As others have said, complete the Visit Japan Web forms in advance and have the QR codes saved as screenshots just in case your phone wigs out like mine did at first. I found KIX a total breeze. We were out and on the train in less than 40 mins.
* Transit: Easily spent the most time of reddit figuring this out. We used a blend subways, private trains, etc so we went with the [Kansai One Pass](https://kansaionepass.com/en/) that got us a few discounts across the trip. As others have pointed out, it’s just a fancy IC card but with a few perks. Doesn’t work on the Shinkansen but we only used that once. You can get it the JR ticket office at the airports. We definitely spent more than we expected on transit but we made the right decision.
* Accommodation: Stayed [here](http://namba.hiyori-hotel.jp/) next to Namba and I thought this location rocked. The hotel was a little cramped but very Japanese and comfortable.
* Sights: We purposefully kept this part light as we thought jetlag would hit us harder than it did. Highlights were wandering Dotonbori, Osaka castle grounds, area around Tenma station, and [Minoh falls](https://goo.gl/maps/gTv3zUfRM2vTB3v18) north of the city. Also enjoyed having a matcha latte on top of Abeno Harukas. We also checked out the [teamLab Botanical garden](https://www.teamlab.art/jp/e/botanicalgarden/) one night and that’s a good time (though bundle up during winter). Found a [sick record store](http://www.timebomb.co.jp/) were we bought an album from The 5.6.7.8’s. Skipped Universal since we live in SoCal. We also visited the [Cup Noodles Museum](https://www.cupnoodles-museum.jp/ja/osaka_ikeda/) north of Osaka but it was way more geared toward children than I thought (skippable). All of this could’ve been done in two days.
* Food: We were surprised at how busy the city was in the aftermath of the New Years. I thought it would be a ghost town but seemingly everyone was going out to eat. Almost all Dotonbori restaurants had lines for the first few days. Most of meals were obvious places around this area but [Melbourne Coffee, Craft & Cider](https://goo.gl/maps/5XqFqVZa34inpN4Z8) had a great breakfast.
1/5 (Day trip to Himeji & Kobe)
* Transit: Bullet train from Shin-Osaka to Himeji. JR trains back to stop in Kobe along the way.
* Sights: For Himeji Castle, we had a free guide via [The Himeji Castle English Speaking Guide Group](https://i-guide.jpn.org/) who was really sweet. You don’t need one per se, but we like to have someone point out the details and give insight we otherwise wouldn’t know. We ended up not having a ton a time in Kobe but the Nunobiki Ropeway was a nice stop to get some great views.
* Food: The castle interior is especially drafty in the winter, and there’s a great Udon place called [Memme](https://goo.gl/maps/8a41hKj77pt8Nuzq6) nearby. English menu and friendly staff!
1/6 (Day trip to Nara)
* Transit: Kintetsu line round-trip from Osaka.
* Sights: Spent the day seeing the sights with a guide from [Magical Tours](https://www.magical-trip.com/product/61494b98-5cf7-4023-8db5-cf8ad92da41e) (Mikki was a great hang). We wanted a guide for the same reasons as Himeji. Also had a nice little sake tasting at the end. Lunch was included.
1/7 – 1/11 (Kyoto)
* Transit: Blend of Keihan, Kyoto subway, and JR lines.
* Accommodation: [Hyatt Regency Kyoto](https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/japan/hyatt-regency-kyoto/kyoto?src=corp_lclb_gmb_seo_kyoto) (scored this for free with credit card points)
* Sights: Everything you’ve read about. My favorite off-beaten-ish place was [Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple](https://goo.gl/maps/cnBUyxyTSvaadU1P6). Kyoto is a great place to just wander around because you’ll find something you didn’t read about.
* Food: Excellent ramen at [Men-ya Yukou](https://goo.gl/maps/NSmSN3vsu2F7S13Z6). Loved the Kyoto-style okonomiyaki and weird decor of [Issen Yoshoku](https://goo.gl/maps/5t1wm3VCAGCZmgbVA). Cool coffee and vibes at [Lush Life](https://goo.gl/maps/8WoCsDsWNPdoaCZK9).
1/11 – 1/14 (Hokkaido: Niseko and Sapporo)
* Transit: Hakura train back to KIX, Peach airlines flight to New Chitose (everything you’ve read is true, they weigh your carry-on baggage) and then a [Hokkaido Resort Liner](https://www.access-n.jp/) to the Niseko area. Long day. Two days later, we took JR Hokkaido trains to Sapporo via Otaru.
* Accommodation: Splurged for two nights at this [Ryokan](https://www.mokunosho.com/en/). Terrific and close to the slopes. Stayed at a [standard hotel](https://www.keikyu-exhotel.jp/hotel/sapporo/) for one more night near Sapporo station.
* Sights: I ski in the states with the IKON pass and it works at Niseko United. In Sapporo we strolled the streets and hit up the [beer museum](https://www.sapporobeer.jp/english/brewery/s_museum/). My favorite gift shop of the whole trip.
* Food: We were treated like royalty at the ryokan for breakfast and dinner. In Sapporo we had more noodles [here](https://goo.gl/maps/NjAtCLvmw8LrcTqb9) located in “ramen alley”.
Other observations:
* I first visited Japan in summer 2010 and the English accessibilities for tourists has improved significantly.
* Credit cards were accepted a lot more than I was expecting. I really only used cash for small purchases, refilling the IC card, and restaurants where you pay at the machines beforehand.
* Right now the exchange rate is amazing for the US dollar, Euro, and UK pound. You’ll see “Tax Free” Japan shopping decals on storefronts in tourist areas. You have to spend at least ¥5,000 and have your passport present to take advantage and you can score some pretty amazing deals.
* Masks. Yes, you need to wear them inside buildings (when not eating or drinking) and on transit. Outside, if not in a crowded area, you don’t have to. There are even government signs saying this and I saw plenty of Japanese who took them off outside as well. Nobody gave us looks/said anything.
* The Google translate camera app does wonders when there is no English signage. Make sure to download Japanese as an offline language.
* I have T-Mobile in the states and I got data via Softbank. It was mediocre 3G but good enough to text friends on WhatsApp.
Thanks again to this subreddit for helping us have an amazing trip!