Autumn Weekend in Takayama, Gifu Prefecture

Update: We took a second trip to Takayama in the fall of 2021 too so I’ve added in a few more recommendations.

In mid-October 2020 my husband and I spent a long weekend in Takayama in Gifu prefecture. We are currently based in Japan so drove there but Takayama is also easy to access via bus/train. I hope this trip report is helpful for future planning or for others also currently based in Japan.

About Takayama: We both loved Takayama. The old historic districts reminded us a bit of a smaller Kyoto. The city is very flat and as it’s not too big you can easily walk to the key tourist sites in town. There were lots of great restaurants that all had English menus available. The fall leaves were already starting to change colors when we were here and while not yet at the peak were gorgeous to see. The weather was also perfect, sunny with clear blue skies. It did cool off at night/early morning so we wore layers and a light-to-medium weight coat. If you want to visit a historic feeling town that is a bit less crowded/busy than Kyoto try Takayama. We stayed 2 nights and had 2 full days for sightseeing at a relaxed pace. If you want to add in another day you could also visit Shirakawago or, if a more fast paced traveler, could do 1 day for Takayama and 1 day for Shirakawago.

– [Hida Takayama (Official Tourism Site) ](https://www.hida.jp/english/)

– [Hida Takayama FB Page ](https://www.facebook.com/Visit.Hidatakayama/)

– [Hida Takayama Instagram ](https://www.instagram.com/visit.takayama/)

– [JapanGuide.com: Takayama ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5900.html)

– [15 Things to Do in Takayama ](https://matcha-jp.com/en/7243)

Getting Here: As we are based in Japan, we drove here in our personal automobile but Takayama is easily accessible via bus/train from other major cities in Japan. Once in Takayama, we walked to all the places we visited in the city itself.

– [JapanGuide: Get To/Around Takayama ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5908.html)

Sites we visited in Takayama that I’d highly recommend include:

[Sanmachi Suji](https://goo.gl/maps/bCLb6kh9QZruNi5J7)
This is a historic neighborhood in Takayama with many shops, sake breweries, and restaurants in Edo era wooden buildings. On weekends the streets will get a bit crowded as Takayama is popular with Japanese tourists too but it’s less crowded on weekdays.

[Harada Sake Brewery ](https://goo.gl/maps/FoxpWN2xqySa3wW49)
This is one of many sake breweries in Takayama but we really enjoyed our visit here. You buy a small sake cup with a bull’s eye logo in it at the counter and can then try a variety of sakes from the available selection. When we were there we could try up to 9 different types though you are asked to limit yourself to just trying a few so other customers have a chance too. Try to visit here after you’ve eaten a good lunch so you don’t get too tipsy. The old building this is in is also very cool to see and you can buy bottles of sake to take home.

[Souvenir Shop: Handmade Fabric Animals ](https://goo.gl/maps/HGPJ2Lh9ynSdyGVRA)
This shop was right down the street from the sake brewery. It has a wide array of small stuffed animals made out of fabric. These aren’t really kid toys, more so for display but many have hangers so we bought a few to use as Christmas Tree ornaments and to give as gifts.

[Takayama Showa-Kan Retro Museum ](https://goo.gl/maps/gjn8DwPi5TZs9RyN9)
We almost didn’t go in but ended up loving the Takayama Showa-kan Retro Museum. It was 1,000 yen for 2 people and we spent close to two hours here. It has tons of antiques and memorabilia from post-WWII Japan and (unlike most museums) you can touch/use many of the items. It’s set up like little stores and upstairs is a mock school room and typical living room. The best part was trying the retro pachinko machines. Kids (or kids at heart) would have fun here!

[Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine ](https://goo.gl/maps/pkhCFN2sk9XStKj17)
Located on a hill in the northeast of the city, this lovely Shinto shrine is a nice place for a stroll or a contemplative break during your tour of Takayama. It’s very near the Festival Floats Hall and these two attractions make a fine combination. This is also near the start of the Higashiyama Walkway to some of the other shrines/temples in Takayama. These are set up against the hill with tall trees behind them and it was peaceful visiting here in the late afternoon.

[Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall ](https://goo.gl/maps/6f3dRX22NTZrZFbx7)
Takayama is famous for [it’s matsuri (festival) ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5909.html), usually held twice a year, where they carry these huge lit up floats through the streets at night. If you aren’t able to visit during festival season, you can still see some of the floats on display at this museum. The combined ticket also grants you admission to the nearby [Sakurayama Nikkokan Museum. ](https://goo.gl/maps/xLLy9gCUFXCgE1DZ9)

[Miyagawa Morning Market ](https://goo.gl/maps/jEZNTpXdwdx6zTWS9)
Cute little morning farmers market held along the river daily. You can grab some local fruit/veggies, coffee, and some local meat buns or other specialties from the shops/tents and eat breakfast along the river. Since there aren’t many good breakfast options (unless you eat at your hotel/ryokan) this is a nice place to start your day if staying at an Air BnB.

2021 Update: [Kuratsubo Antiques: ](https://goo.gl/maps/kzGNjVy1CLdLdTDi6) A huge antique store with anything and everything you could imagine. Full from the floors to the ceiling of all sorts of Japanese goods. Best to avoid taking in strollers or small kids as it’s very crowded and adults need to be careful to not knock anything over (don’t wear your backpack on your back!) We spent a couple hours in here.

2021 Update: [Painted Candle Store: ](https://goo.gl/maps/B9uq6m9LLTV4aWso6) This shop sells hand-painted candles and hand-made copper candlestick holders. A real craftsman.

[Shinhotaka Ropeway ](https://goo.gl/maps/FWRG3XNEyCaX61Sp8)
If you want to get up into the Japan Alps but don’t feel like hiking for a couple of days, the Shinhotaka Ropeway (“ropeway” is how the Japanese say “cable car”) is your best bet. The ropeway starts at 1117m and takes you up to 2156m in 11 minutes. At the top, you can get a phenomenal view of the entire northern Japan Alps. There are a few onsen in the valley at the base of the ropeway, including a nice free one called Shinhodaka-no-yu, which is located beneath a bridge. We had our car so drove here from Takayama but there are also buses you can take here too. In mid-October the leaves here were just starting to turn but by late October the view of fall leaves from the Ropeway would have been perfect.

[Shinhotaka Outdoor Public Onsen ](https://goo.gl/maps/kWYmbLFrvERHVGCr5)
Free outdoor public bath. Mixed gender so you wear swimsuits. Park at the [museum across the highway](https://goo.gl/maps/PfUm3rT25WU8Ura86) where there is also a toilet. I believe there is also a bus stop near this museum or you can walk down from the Shinhotaka Ropeway stop. Walk across the highway and pedestrian bridge to the outdoor onsen pool. There is a changing room with lockers to store your clothes (100 yen coin) but that is all. No other amenities at the outdoor pool. I believe this is closed in winter, but if you are here in summer/fall try to check it out.

We ran out of time to visit nearby [Shirakawago ](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5950.html) but hope to visit there too in future. You could easily do 1 day in Takayama and 1 day in Shirakawago if you don’t visit the Shinhotaka Ropeway/Outdoor Onsen. Or, if you’re relaxed travelers like us plan for 3 full days so you can easily do all three. There are also a few places you can stay overnight in Shirakawago too if you wanted to try that.

Restaurants:

2021 Update: [Hidagyu no Komori: ](https://goo.gl/maps/AQH8RgWiGX9eth6R8) Cute little Hida beef bun restaurant next to the river. Only a couple tables outdoors but you can walk down and eat along the riverbank too.

2021 Update: [Coffee Don: ](https://goo.gl/maps/aufzNPVhkfAMCVCb7) Traditional Japanese retro coffee shop (kissaten) that is a great place to warm up if it’s cold. Excellent coffee and desserts.

2021 Update: [Moon Tap Beer: ](https://goo.gl/maps/enQ9ohdEdkiyBLPD7) Cute little craft beer spot for before or after dinner.

2021 Update: [Lamp Cocktail Bar: ](https://goo.gl/maps/ckuThmthmAdfzQf89) This is in a small area of little restaurants stalls and a great spot to come for dinner/drinks. Try Gyoza, sushi, noodles, and more as you make your way among the different small restaurant spots. End with cocktails at Lamp. Best for couples/small groups as all of the spots here have limited seating.

[Center 4 Hamburgers ](https://goo.gl/maps/MfwJhDwTRqFydGod8)
Centre 4 Hamburgers not only had great food but also lots of craft beer options. It’s a bit small with only a few tables so if you have a large group order to go and eat down by the river if it’s a nice day.

[Heianraku Chinese ](https://goo.gl/maps/KaxWLnYwr1G9xqwbA)
All the restaurants we went to in Takayama had English menus and English speaking staff. This Chinese restaurant was next level though with a detailed English menu with items clearly marked by special dietary needs/requests including gluten-free and vegetarian. Order the pork meatballs – they were great!

[Kyoya](https://goo.gl/maps/rDKVDa9xrzDnYahu6)
Old 160 year old farmers house that was converted to this restaurant 40 years ago. You sit at wood charcoal grill tables and grill your own Hida Beef and veggies to your liking. They also serve other Takayama specialty dishes, soba noodles, and more. The decor and ambience in this old house is truly unique.

[旅のしおり Coffee Shop](https://goo.gl/maps/8J9nh6G2PwNu27KK8)
Cute little coffee shop just down the street from our Air BnB in the more residential historic neighborhood. Excellent coffee and pumpkin cake with a nice view of their back garden. They also have their [own AirBnB ](https://abnb.me/9ssMIrrs2eb)on the second floor of the coffee shop but we didn’t stay here.

[Sakurajaya ](https://goo.gl/maps/8iuNhDrWqpVYh8x9A)
If you ever visit Takayama in Gifu prefecture you *must* plan for a meal at Sakurajaya! This was the best meal my husband and I have had in Japan to date. The owner and chef, Hiroshi, is a true artist and master of his craft. He only used the freshest local vegetables, quality cuts of local Hida beef, and everything is hand made. Typically, you need reservations as he only takes up to six customers at a time, but in October 2020 his business (like so many others) was struggling due to lack of tourism/Covid. We were able to walk right in and were his only customers on a Saturday night so it was like our own private dining experience. You sit at the bar and he will show you the ingredients he is using and explain each step. He speaks very good English and is fluent in German too. Seriously – add this restaurant to your must visit list! It was sooooo good. When international tourism reopens be sure to make a reservation in advance for dinner here so you don’t miss out!

Lodging:

2021 Update: During our second trip to Takayama, we stayed at the [Wat Hotel](https://goo.gl/maps/sMUahXXExiLPXdxR7) and really enjoyed it. A brand new and nicely appointed hotel not far from the station and just a 15 minute walk to almost all the sites and restaurants in Takayama. Checkin was a breeze as staff speak excellent English and they’ve got a nice sized parking lot outside that you pay for upon checkin. If you leave the next day you can reserve your same parking spot by placing a cone there which is nice if you want to drive to Shirakawago or the Shin Hotaka Ropeway. The room was an ok size for a couple with in room sink, toilet, and shower. But we just used the private onsen tubs on the 7th floor. There are 4 to choose from and you just turn over the sign and lock the door behind you. There is also a larger shared bath (gender separated). Private baths are great for couples, those with tattoos, or families. We also enjoyed sitting outside on the rooftop patio after a long day of sightseeing. Free coffee/tea in the 7th floor lounge and lots of vending machine options. We got breakfast with our room rate which was ok but there are a few coffee shops nearby too. All in all a great 2-night stay and an amazing value for what you get!

2021 Temple Lodging Reccomendation: While exploring Takayama, we walked by [Temple Hotel Zenkoji ](https://goo.gl/maps/i7Q2R2g8adDUUty66) that looked really cool. We haven’t stayed here ourselves, but if you want to experience an overnight stay in a temple but don’t have time to make it out to Koyasan this might be a good option. [See their website (in English) ](https://oterastay.com/zenkoji/) for more info.

In 2020, we stayed in an Air BnB but if we visited again we’d probably choose to stay in one of the many ryokans in Takayama. There aren’t many great breakfast options outside of the morning markets so being able to start your day by eating breakfast at the hotel would’ve been nice. Or plan better than we did and pick up breakfast food from a grocery store/convenience store to make at your Air BnB.

That being said, the [Teriyaki Hotel Air BnB ](https://goo.gl/maps/QLaQHL7tiQFa4VkC9) was gorgeous! Despite it’s name, this is a private, stand alone historic townhome. It has been completely updated with a modern kitchen and finishes and would be perfect for a family or couples traveling together as there are two separate bedrooms upstairs plus a tatami area in the downstairs living room. One bedroom has a double bed with mattress and the other bedroom is tatami floor with futons. What is most special about this Air BnB is that there is a back garden and a separate back bathhouse with a second shower and large soaking tub. So, if you want to get away from your kids or traveling companions for a relaxing bath you can easily do so. There’s also a washing machine back here too. We walked to all of the other sites in Takayama city easily from here. There is a parking spot for one car.