Trip Report – 8 Days in Hokkaido on January

**Day 1 – Tokyo**

We arrived in Haneda airport at around before 10pm, as the flight we were on was delayed since our first flight before the connecting flight was also delayed. That delay also made our flight arrived around the same time with another international flight and made immigration a long line. We had to queue for an hour before we were able to get out. We then had to travel at our hotel ( **Keio Presso Inn Tokyo Station Yaesu** ) and arrived there at past 1am already, good thing they had 24 hour front desk and was able to assist us in checking in. We chose that hotel since it’s just a block away from Tokyo Station and was not expensive. Since we just really need a place to sleep before heading to Hokkaido the next day. The room was a bit small, but I guess that was standard for a Tokyo hotel.

**Day 2 – Hakodate**

We had to wake up early today since we still have to get our JR passes in Tokyo Station, have the seats we reserved printed and find Yamato for luggage forwarding. We barely had time to buy bento boxes (on the platform already!) in Ekiben Matsuri before boarding the shinkansen bound for Hakodate (Hayabusa 13 departs at 9:36am). Once on the train, it was a delight to see, as we headed north, the transition of the landscape. Starting from barren and lifeless trees to slowly seeing it lightly covered in snow and then to everything being white and even snowing outside! The snow capped mountains was also great to see! We got to Hakodate station around 2pm after transferring to a local train. Check in for the hotel ( **JR Inn Hakodate** ) is not until 3pm, which was also conveniently located right besides the train station, we were able to buy some needed winter accessories (gloves, neck warmers, heat packs, anti-slips for ice) at 7-11. Also just had enough time for my obligatory ice cream post ([link here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CnG29xmONMQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)). Yes, ice cream at winter! I just love ice cream.

After checking in, we just barely missed the bus for the ropeway. We decided instead of waiting for the next bus (which was I think 40 mins away) to walk to the ropeway. Thinking that on the way, we could already see some of Hakodate already. What we forgot was that part of the way to the ropeway station was a slope going up. Good thing we were able to get up there just as the city lights up and we were able to marvel the view really well. Definitely deserving as one of Japan’s top night views! Afterwards we walked to Motomachi district to see some of the buildings lit up for the night and then headed to Hachiman-Zaka slope which would get us to the red brickhouses at the end of it. We had dinner at Lucky Pierrot since it was mostly suggested on the things I ready, good chicken burger. Strolled through the red brickhouses afterwards and then walked back to the hotel for the night.

**Day 3 – Noboribetsu**

We didn’t avail breakfast at the hotel since we were aiming for breakfast at the morning market, which was also conveniently located just a few meters away from the hotel (really loved that hotel). Had Kaisendon on one the restaurants there (Japanese hospitality trumps everything!), definitely cheaper than other places we’ll be having on other cities on this trip and definitely delicious! Had to rush to checkout from the hotel to catch the limited express leaving for Noboribetsu at 10:43am. On the way to Noboribetsu, we were able to see the majestic Koma-ga-take from the train and also a ton of other snow capped mountains. After transferring to a local bus to take us to Noboribetsu Onsen from the station, we arrived at our ryokan ( **Takinoya Bekkan Tamanoyu** ) at around 2pm, around 5 minute walk away from the bus station. It also started snowing when we checked in and the view from our room was magical. We then had late lunch at Onsen Ichiba for more kaisendon and had pudding at a cafe in front of it. It was already getting dark (night comes early in Hokkaido during winter) when we started to head for Jigokudani and we were able to see some of the illuminations lighting up the path. We then headed back to the hotel for dinner, we booked the full board and dinner was part of the package and it was a feast! Everything was also good and we were definitely full after finishing it all off. We also previously arranged a private onsen so we could enjoy a hot bath before turning in for the night. First time for us to sleep in a futon.

**Day 4 – Sapporo**

Breakfast was also a feast! Ryokans are definitely the best for making you feel welcome and being hosted. We then had some time to stroll again to Jigokudani before catching the limited express to Sapporo again to get there. Here’s the obligatory ice cream shot ([link](https://www.instagram.com/p/CnLlx1CPFms/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)) for Jigokudani. We thought about going to Date Jidai Village on the way to the train station, but just decided we’ll return there some day (gives us an excuse to come back here!) and just took our time enjoying the view in Jigokudani.

We arrived at our hotel in Sapporo ( **The Royal Park Canvas – Sapporo Odori Park** ) which was conveniently located near Odori station and in front of the TV tower at around past 3pm. And luggages we forwarded was conveniently located at our hotel room already! After resting for a bit we headed to Mt. Moiwa ropeway and got there around past 6pm, which was actually good time even if we missed the lighting of the city. Since when we we got up at the middle station, a horde of people were lining up to go down already, probably for dinner, and we were able to enjoy the observation deck with a whole lot of less people. We had a quick snack at the Jewel’s restaurant before heading back to Sapporo. We then had a quick shopping and bought some coats (that I was able to use on the succeeding days) for a good deal before experiencing heavy snow for the first time in our lives as we walked outside. We then had a quick dinner in Ramen Alley at Susukino before heading back to the hotel to rest.

**Day 5 – Furano**

We availed the breakfast at the hotel and it was Hokkaido cuisine and a full meal, they also have a buffet part but it’s mainly bread, yogurt and juices. We again had to rush to the train just to get on the Lilac Kamui Express bound for Asahikawa before transferring to the Furano line. We mulled over having lunch in Asahikawa and even going to the zoo but decided to just head to Furano right away. When we got to Furano at past 12pm, we looked for the cheese ramen restaurant but it was closed (not sure why though) and just had lunch at a nearby chicken restaurant, the walk around the neighborhood was something we enjoyed as the town as small and quiet and when we walked around the snow was really white and not dark and slushy like in Sapporo. We then had coffee at a quaint cafe near the train station before being able to ride the bus going to Shin Furano Prince Hotel. We arrived there just as the sun starts to set and we were able to enjoy our time in Ningle Terrace! Our target for this trip, we were able to take a lot of pictures at dusk and at night (two different views) the illumination of the place was really romantic. We then had a snack of coffee and ice cream at Mori no Tokei Cafe before heading back up top to explore Furano Kan Kan Mura which is also just besides the hotel, it was full of snow sculptures and illuminted paths as well and we even did the snow-tube slide. Temperature also read at -10°C when we took the slide, really cold! We then started to head back to Furano station, just a heads up, there’s no more buses at past 4pm from the hotel, so we had to take a taxi back to the station. We arrived a bit early, so we had time to go to convenience store nearby to buy some snacks/dinner as we head back to Sapporo. While waiting for the train, I noticed in google maps that there was a delay going on due to snow, worried that we won’t make it back in time to Takikawa to transfer to the Lilac Kamui express back to Sapporo, we hopped to the next train that took us back to Asahikawa, good thing that was not delayed and we were able to get on a train to get back to Sapporo. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to see any ice cream at Ningle Terrace and was not able to get any ice cream shot.

**Day 6 – Otaru**

Finally, a day where we didn’t need to rush to get to a train. Since there was a lot of trains going to Otaru (which is about 30 mins away from Sapporo) every hour and we could just take our pick. It was almost lunch time when we got to Otaru. We decided to just do the canal cruise before walking to everything else that we have planned for the day just to get it over and done with and we were glad to do it while the sun was still out as the mountains were clearly seen from the canal. And oh, here’s the ice cream shot ([link](https://www.instagram.com/p/CnRWn5LPdVB/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)). We then walked to Sushiyadori street for lunch but most of it were closed and most of the prices were expensive compared to Hakodate’s morning market. Maybe we missed the part of the street where there’s good food? We then head to Sakaimachi street for the shops, music box museums and we had coffee and some snacks at the Kitaichi glass and coffee shop (instagrammable place!). It was around 6pm when we started heading back to the train station and to get back to Sapporo for dinner.

Thanks to [Tabikita](https://www.youtube.com/@tabikita_japan) youtube channel for this tip! We had dinner at Nemuro Hanamaru (conveyor belt sushi place), they actually have at least one branch, since the main one at Sapporo station always had a long line, they suggested this branch (Miredo building) which was probably about a 5 minute walk away from Sapporo station and had a definitely way shorter line. Had good sushi and we were really full after stacking who knows how many plates. Walked back to the hotel afterwards for a good night’s sleep full of sushi.

**Day 7 – Sapporo**

This day was just reserved for some shopping and winter activities if we could squeeze those in. But ultimately decided to just focus on shopping (more reason to come back to try winter activities!) and a visit to Shiroi Koibito. I really enjoyed the time in Shiroi Koiboti, I was really tempted to be just left behind and work there for chocolates. And the last ice cream shot for the trip ([link](https://www.instagram.com/p/CnWHipBPGA_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)). The afternoon was just mostly shopping and souvenir buying.

We then had dinner at the Sapporo Beer Garden, which was a long walk from train stations, we barely had an hour to enjoy our dinner as we arrived a bit late compared to most people. After another long walk back to the train station we headed to sleep for the night at the hotel.

**Day 8 – Sapporo**

Some last minute shopping and picture taking at Odori Park before checking out and heading to the airport. I missed the luggage forward service as we had to stroll 4 suitcases all the way to the airport from Odori station. The airport was huge and it was unfortunate that we were not able to explore it more (another excuse to go back!). Bade goodbye to Hokkaido as the sun was setting (at past 4pm lol). Definitely going back!

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Notes and Final Thoughts:

* Special thanks to u/rvenx for the tips given on my itinerary check [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/yyg0ot/itinerary_check_8_days_in_hokkaido_on_january/)
* Hakodate, Noboribetsu and Furano are must returns
* DO NOT SCRIMP ON LUGGAGE FORWARDING, your tired body will thank you for it
* Anti-slip for shoes are definitely a must if you’re not familiar in walking on snow/ice
* Thermal innerware are also a must, helps in layering
* Getting the JR Pass on the official site is helpful since you can reserve seats on their site right away. It is a bit more expensive than the ones gotten on other official sellers though
* Japan Hospitality is the best!
* Will get a hotel near Sapporo Station instead of Odori Station next time since the subway is not covered by the JR Pass
* We were able to get good rates since we mostly booked the hotels more than a month before the trip in [booking.com](https://booking.com) and we were going there not on a peak season. It was just right before the snow festival kicks in. They were also already preparing Odori park for the massive snow sculptures already on our last day.
* Google maps and Google translate is your friend
* Loved all the train rides!