Hello,
I am currently crafting an itinerary for a trip to Japan. This itinerary represents a 4 day sub set of that larger trip which is still rather nebulous. As such the arrival into this section of the larger trip is a bit vague as is the exit. I’m mainly interested in confirming that this is a feasible time table for my travel around shrines and temples of the Kii peninsula. Additionally if anyone has suggestions for sites that I’m missing or general recommendations, like what time of year to come, I would love to hear them. Note I’m avoiding the longer (as in all day or more) hikes on the Kumano Kodo due to a lack of experience with long distance mountain hiking. Bullet points labeled \[Stretch\] are items that are possibilities but could be replaced if circumstances demanded it. My philosophy on stretch versus fixed goals is detailed below the itinerary.
**Day 1**:
* Arrive by train likely along the Nagoya->Shingu->Nachi JR route.
* According to Hyperdia arrival would be at 14:45.
* Take the bus to the base of the Daimon-zaka.
* Check in at Mitaki Sanso
* Would be the ideal accommodation due to location but failing that somewhere in the area
* Spend afternoon/evening visiting Nachi Falls.
**Day 2:**
* Visit Nachi Taisha.
* Ideally waking up early (6:00) to see it.
* \[Stretch\] Hike up to Myohosan Amida temple.
* The tourism bureau pegs this at 2.5 hours with no breaks but I assume more with time spent at the temple.
* Take a bus from Nachi Taisha to Shingu.
* Having looked at bus timetables arriving between 14:00-15:00 seems likely.
* Visit Hayatama Taisha.
* \[Stretch\] Visit Kamikura-jinja.
* \[Stretch\] Visit Shingu Castle remains.
* \[Stretch\] Visit Asuka-jinja.
* Spend the night in Shingu.
**Day 3:**
* Visit any remaining sites in Shingu.
* Take the bus to Watarase Onsen to check in then to Hongu Taisha.
* Again going off timetables probably arriving in Hongu around 12:00.
* Touring Hongu Taisha.
* \[Stretch\] Hike to Dainichi-goe route to Yunomine Onsen.
* Eventually taking the bus from Yunomine Onsen to Watarase.
* Spend the night in Watarase Onsen.
**Day 4:**
* Take care of remaining business.
* Do any items that slipped from previous days or any emergent new ideas that cropped up. Either in the Hongu or Shingu areas.
* Take the bus to Shingu station.
* Exit the region by train.
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**Finally some info on my approach to travel:**
I like having a fairly detailed/precise plan and ideal timeline but with the foreknowledge that plans need to remain flexible. As such certain items are fixed goals that I will not willingly pass up, though life can obviously overrule will, and some are stretch goals that can be cut/replaced as needed. For example Day 2 would ideally be:
**Day 2:**
* Visit Nachi Taisha. (6:00-7:30)
* Return to lodging for breakfast, forward luggage to Shingu, check out.
* Visit treasure hall at Nachi Taisha. (8:30-9:00)
* \[Stretch\] Hike up to Myohosan Amida temple. (9:00-12:00)
* Take a bus from Nachi Taisha -> Nachi Station.
* No. 31 bus at 13:02 arriving at 13:19.
* Take a bus from Nachi Station -> Shingu.
* No. 15 bus at 13:38 arriving at 14:18.
* Check in to accommodation.
* Visit Hayatama Taisha.
* \[Stretch\] Visit Kamikura-jinja.
* \[Stretch\] Visit Shingu Castle remains.
* \[Stretch\] Visit Asuka-jinja.
* Spend the night in Shingu.
But in reality “ideal” doesn’t mean much since any disruptions could cause the entire day to change. In the worst case Day 2 could be:
**Day 2:**
* Visit Nachi Taisha.
* Take a bus from Nachi Taisha -> Nachi Station -> Shingu.
Since while Hayatama Taisha is a fixed goal it could be dealt with in the morning of Day 3 or even Day 4 before departing.
As said above I’m mainly looking for a feasibility check. I don’t know how long you can really spend at the temples/shrines. I realize that that is a subjective assessment but advice is appreciated. In addition are there any locations or activities that I am missing that you would recommend?
8 comments
Whatever you do, make sure you go to Kii-Katsuura and go to the pier where the restaurants are. Walk to the end of the inside and you’ll see an open freezer with slabs of tuna in it packaged already. Looks like something you’d get from a store. Pick both kinds, big eye and albacore. It will be called Mochi tuna. Bring them to the nearest counter and ask to sample. They’ll cut the packages open and slice up the tuna and give you some soy and wasabi on a little plate. I promise, it’ll be the best fish you’ve ever eaten. I dream about that fish. Might be a white dude named Sebastian working there. If so, he’s super nice and can translate if you need.
I have nothing to add but I recently read an article by Craig Mod about walking the Mie/Wakayama stretch of the Kumano Kodo (170km or so) and now I absolutely have to do it. Let us know how you go.
Day 3 is what concern me. I am not sure which timetable you are going by, but the [current timetable](https://kumanogobobus.nankai-nanki.jp/localbus/pdf/time_kawatake_en.pdf) certainly doesn’t work for your route since the bus to the 3 onsens only operated in the afternoon.
And in case you didn’t know, there’s also sightseeing package that allow you to visit most sights in one day: [https://kumanogobobus.nankai-nanki.jp/en/tourbus/](https://kumanogobobus.nankai-nanki.jp/en/tourbus/)
I think you can potentially do Nachi Taisha, Nachi Falls, and the treasure hall if you can arrive early enough on Day 1, and just do another trip in the early morning on Day 2 if you want to see sunrise since you are staying close by.
It’s not a big area, I did both Nachi Taisha and Falls as the start of my Kumano Kodo hike, only took 30-40 mins. Maybe add another hour or so if you plan to climb up Daimonzaka.
If you do want to try a bit of Kumano Kodo, the most popular stretch is from Hosshinmon-oji to Hongu Taisha. Lots of buses from Hongu Taisha’s bus center go there and there’ll be lots of people doing it. It’s mostly downhill and on paved roads through a village. The only climb is when you get near the Taisha but it’s just a short stretch of stone staircases. The route is about 7 km, and you can do it in 2 hours at a relaxed pace. (I believe Dainichigoe has a climb up and it’s mountain path?, but I didn’t do this route myself and my memory might be wrong.)
Hongu taisha was my fave of the three. Hiked in May and it was stunning but a typhoon did take me by surprise and I needed to book last minute for shelter and had a good stay at blue sky guesthouse. Wolves used to live in those valleys and it was so mystical to be hiking and imagining them roaming around. One night while camping s bunch of flying squirrels attacked the tent so beware 😂
I hiked the Kumano kodo from Yunomine Onsen to Koguchi to Nachi a few years ago and I actually stayed a night at Mitaki Sanso. The only thing I remember about the inn is their laundry machine was outside and had weird separate rinse and clean compartments that I had never used before and another nice Japanese traveler had to show me how it worked. Probably not super relevant…
I went around golden week but I think it would also be very nice in the fall with all the leaves changing color. Would probably avoid in midsummer if you are worried about the hiking just because of the heat.
Not much other advice I have to give. The Kumano travel website is nice. Helps to speak a bit of Japanese since you are going to some smaller towns. I remember it being reasonably easy to get a bus from the Taisha (forget which, the yatagarasu one?) to yunomine. I think I mostly walked around Nachi shrines and waterfall and the only bus I caught there was as I was leaving to kii katsuura.
I know you’re citing lack of hiking experience but Kumano Kodo is very easy and gorgeous so would highly recommend you try it out tbh. You can hike across (Kii Katsuura to Tanabe or vice versa) in 5 days. There is a very cool Onsen town after day 2-3 of which i forget the name
I’ve never actually been to the area, so take what I say with a pinch of salt, but have you considered leaving the southern Kii on the direct and slow route rather than the boring retracing version?
Japan’s longest non-high speed bus route (no, really) goes from Shingu via Hongu through the deep mountains and up towards Nara, passing through areas such as Totsukawa that are apparently supposed to be quite something. They give you a break at the Tanize suspension bridge, too, again something I’ve always wanted to see given its setting…