Itinerary check for the first trip to Japan – Tokyo/Nozawa Onsen/Kyoto/Tokyo (Nikko) – Feb 18 to Mar 4

My partner and I are travelling to Japan for the first time from Feb 18 to Mar 4, 2023 and wanted to get your thoughts on our rough itinerary. We are mainly interested in exploring the food culture, unique-to-Japan traditions, must-see sights & Tokyo nightlife. We purposely kept some days light as we want a bit of flexibility but have made a Google Maps with many more options that we could do and, of course, open to more recommendations.

**Abut us**

A gay couple in 30s/40s, travelling with 1 checked-in luggage (<160 cm) and a backpack each. Do not speak Japanese but learning to read Kanji.

**Itinerary**

* Day 0: activate Ubigi eSIM data plan & activate virtual Suica/Pasmo.
* Day 1 (Tokyo): arrive at Haneda at 8AM. Exchange Japan Rail, activate only starting at Day 4 and/or book advance tickets. Take the direct Keikuy train to Shimbashi where our hotel is. Leave luggage at the hotel, grab coffee and go to Tsukiji Outer Market for lunch. Stay in Ginza for some sightseeing & maybe light shopping (Muji, Takumi, Itoya). If feeling alright, visit Seiko Museum; otherwise go back to the hotel. No dinner plans so find something locally like ramen or explore 7/11, Lawson or FamilyMart for food.
* Day 2 (Tokyo): no plans yet, potentially meet up with friends from Tokyo. Not sure if many things will be open as it is Sunday but if all fails, go up to Tokyo Dome area.
* Day 3 (Tokyo): see the Rainbow bridge on the way to teamLab Planets in the morning. Get lunch in Tsukishima Monja Street. No plans in the afternoon but have dinner at Tempura Kondo followed by drinks somewhere nearby like Tir na nOg.
* Day 4 (Nozawa Onsen): get to Tokyo Station, buy Ekiben and catch the train to Iiyama and bus to Nozawa Onsen. Check in to the ryokan, get ski passes and equipment, ski a little and explore the town. Visit either a public or private onsen.
* Day 5 (Nozawa Onsen): ski during the day, onsen afterward. Dinner at a ryokan or a restaurant.
* Day 6 (Nozawa Onsen): same as Day 5 but try a different restaurant.
* Day 7 (Kyoto): catch a bus to Iiyama and train to Kyoto via Kanazawa. Drop off luggage at the hotel, grab lunch at Nishiki market, see Kiyomizu-dera Temple and explore Higashiyama. Go for kaiseki dinner in Gion (will try to book while in Tokyo) and hang around Pontocho for late-night drinks.
* Day 8 (Kyoto): visit Imperial Palace & Kinkakuji. I have heard mixed reviews about Arashiyama but could make a trip there as well. Eat eat eat.
* Day 9 (Kyoto): visit Fushimi Inari Taisha and walk up to Toji. Hang around Kyoto station area.
* Day 10 (Tokyo): take train to Tokyo with seat reservations to maybe glimpse Mt Fuji and arrive at Hamamatsucho near our hotel. Go to Shinjuku and lunch at Uogashi Nihon-Ichi. Visit Tokyo Metropolitan Building and shop at Don Quijote. Stay until late at night, including drinks at gay bars like Eagle, King Tokyo, Aisotope Lounge.
* Day 11 (Nikko): day trip to Nikko. Come back to Tokyo for dinner and try some new food.
* Day 12 (Tokyo): visit Ueno & Tokyo National Museum. Lunch at Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku then go to Senjoji. Shop in Akihabara and then go down to Roppongi for Tokyo City View. Probably grab dinner & drinks around the area.
* Day 13 (Tokyo): nothing planned but want to try a Ghibli Museum if I manage to reserve tickets.
* Day 14 (Tokyo): visit Meiji Jingu & Yoyogi park, go down to Shibuya, get lunch & shop around. See Shibuya crossing, probably go up to L’Occitane cafe and continue shopping at Daiso. Dinner at a nice sushi restaurant in Ebisuminami. Walk back to the hotel.
* Day 15: take Tokyo Monorail to Haneda and catch an early flight back.

**Some questions in addition to the feedback on the above**

* Is a day trip to Nara or Osaka from Kyoto worth it?
* Any more museum recommendations?

Thank you in advance!

3 comments
  1. Regarding the day trip to Osaka or Nara it’s a tough question given that you only have a few days in Kyoto. I’d say Osaka is probably not worth it actually, and it pains me to say so as it’s my favourite city in Japan. Maybe in the world actually. That’s for living though and given that you’re getting a lot of modern Japan in Tokyo I’d recommend an extra day in Kyoto over a day in Osaka. Osaka is a wonderful city and always fun (especially at night) but as a tourist destination (especially for a day trip)it is in my opinion skippable. This is a somewhat controversial opinion though and may be influenced by my having lived there for over a decade.

    Nara might be worth it though. The main sites are all very close together and can be done in a half day from Kyoto and are really quite impressive in my opinion. You’ve got a pretty busy schedule though and may be jet lagged so if you don’t feel like making the trip I’d say put it on the list of things to do on your next trip and don’t feel bad about it. In other words just see how you feel at the time.

    One other thing. If you have time in Kyoto try to add Nijo castle. It’s pretty convenient and can be done in an hour. It’s my favourite place in Kyoto and is a nice break from the temples.

  2. Arashiyama is an amazing part of Kyoto but you can’t not visit starting your day late and no plan about what you want to see or do.

    There are so many beautiful temples and trails and awesome restaurants and shops. But it’s not gonna work if you start your day at lunchtime here.

    It’s crowded because it’s one of the most beautiful parts of Kyoto. I think the most beautiful but I’m biased lol. Definitely make time to come if you can but plan out what you want to see for sure.

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