Tatayama Alpine route vs road trip in the Northern Alps

Hi all!

My partner and I are planning a 15-day trip to Japan in late August-mid September, with our rough route being Tokyo – Kyoto – Kanazawa – Northern Alps – Tokyo.
We love road trips, long hikes, beautiful buildings, and yummy food. She’s an architect and I’m an environmental scientist.

We are weighing a couple options on how best to spend 3-4 days between Kanazawa an Tokyo and would appreciate any thoughts on this topic.

Option 1: Take the Tatayama Kurobe Alpine Route, spend a night in Midagahara, another night in Nagano, and then head back to Tokyo.

Option 2: Rent a car in Kanazawa and drive to Shirakawago, go up the Shinhotaka Ropeway, spending two nights in various Ryokan on the way. A bonus here would be my bringing my fly-fishing gear and being able to fly fish on some of the streams in this area.

If you have any suggestions for particular sights in this area we cannot miss, we would appreciate it.

5 comments
  1. The Shinhotaka Ropeway is scheduled to be closed until August 9 for repairs. While that means it’s supposed to open before you get there, it’s probably wise to have something planned in case they run into delays.

    That said, I don’t think you necessarily need to spend a night in Nagano. You can easily do the whole route in a single day so starting partway, I think it’s pretty feasible to go straight back to Tokyo. Unless you plan to do something in Nagano the day after, there’s not much reason to stay in Nagano in my opinion.

    You do also have the option of going to Matsumoto and checking it out for a day. The train back to Tokyo will be quick so long as you catch one of the limited express trains.

  2. I live in Toyama, and I vote option 2. Renting a car and going around this area is the best. Kurobe route is nice, but always crowded. We have tons of dams and nice drives around here, and I think it’s nice to see all the rock/snow sheds and the way things are done out in the mountains. If you’re considering Shirakawago, I’d recommend trying to get to/stay in Hida. Some things that might be up your alleys are [Hiramekido](https://goo.gl/maps/WYod9XkWZRJeZ5A1A), which is a nice spot – old building with a space theme (not in a cheesey way!) and good owners and curry, [Yawaiya](https://goo.gl/maps/izX9Mc5ZtfBpMWSN7) is nearby – a building they transported that now sells ceramics/glassware, and [this nice little 48 waterfall hike](https://goo.gl/maps/9URniPpUZcP2iYSq5) is right up the road (not a long or intense hike, but hey…a few hours up and back, and nice and shaded in that summer heat).
    You might also be interested in the [Tateyama Caldera Sabo Museum](http://museums.toyamaken.jp/en_museum/e_tateyama_caldera_sabo_museum/) and the [Tateyama Museum](https://foreign.info-toyama.com/en/spot/?spot_id=123&ret_list_p=11). I know the second one doesn’t look like much, but it has some really cool stuff in it. They try to recreate hell in it, as well as the birth canal/heaven…it’s a weird spot, but our visitors always love it. You can see a bit more in [this PDF](https://www.pref.toyama.jp/documents/15448/pamphlet_english.pdf). It spans a few buildings/areas. And if you’re in that area, [Shomyodaki](https://goo.gl/maps/b9Gd26rbpMzcQqYW8) has some nice hiking trails, too.
    The Glass Museum in Toyama is also a library, and a good chance to get some less crowded time with a Kengo Kuma building (although the Nezu in Tokyo is still my favorite) if you happen to be in the city.

  3. I don’t have Japan in this year travel plans, but I still read everything in this sub lol

  4. Go hiking from kamikochi or from murodo (tateyama) and stay for a night

    Edit: yakedake or karasawa cirque for kamikochi, tateyama loop for murodo

  5. You could also just take a bus from Takayama straight into Kamikochi National park. Spend 2 nights at a lodge in the park and hike to your hearts content in jaw dropping gorgeous scenery. There are easy day hikes but also serious mountain hikes in Kamikochi too. Their official site has heaps of helpful info. When done, take bus to Matsumoto, see one of 12 remaining original construction castles, and then take limited express train into Tokyo (or do the trip vice versa Tokyo > Matsumoto > bus to Kamikochi > bus to Takayama.

    – [Kamikochi Official Site](https://www.kamikochi.org)

    If you really want to rent a car, I’d suggest renting a car in Takayama and driving to [Kamikochi East side parking.](https://maps.app.goo.gl/LTj5t4JJYpR1MiK97?g_st=ic) Then take bus into the park and then taking a bus into the park. Personal cars aren’t allowed in the park so everyone has to bus in after parking their car. So, kinda a waste of a rental car truthfully.

    If you do rent a car, I’d drive from Takayama to Norikura which is just outside the park on the east side of the mountain. Stay 2 nights in Norikura and you can bus into Kamikochi for a day trip from the Norikura bus terminal and spend another day driving to the various waterfall trailheads around Norikura. A rental car would be super helpful to explore the Norikura area and there’s also more serious mountain hikes on the Norikura side too. It’s also a super popular mountain/road biking area. Norikura had the most impressive waterfalls we saw during our time living in Japan.

    – [Trip Report: Waterfalls in Norikura](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/piyive/summer_weekend_in_matsumoto_and_waterfalls_in/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)

    You could do the trip in reverse too; train from Tokyo to Matsumoto, rent car in Matsumoto, drive to Norikura, then drive to Shinhotaka Ropeway (set to reopen on August 9), stop off at the outdoor swimsuit onsen by the river, then drive to Takayama, return rental car, and explore the city easily by foot.

    – [Trip Report: Takayama](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/mg8ir9/autumn_weekend_in_takayama_gifu_prefecture/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)

    Happy Planning!

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