I’ve been meaning to do this for a while: the trip report of the trip my sister, her friend and I took to Japan in 20th of May to 6th of June of 2018. For my sister this was her second trip to Japan, for her friend her first, and for me uhm, 10th time.
Let me warn you in advance that the itinerary was very packed and probably not recommend for anyone else to use as a template for their own trip. For this trip I had written an extremely detailed plan, but it’s all in Dutch and too much work to translate it all, sorry. Also since this was almost 3 years ago my memory is a bit hazy at times as to what exactly we did on days I didn’t take too many photos.
* May 19/20: We had a direct flight from Schiphol (Amsterdam) airport to Tokyo Narita airport via KLM. After going through customs, we put the sim cards we got ahead of time (via Japan-Rail-Pass.net) in our phones. Because we knew in advance that we probably wanted to have days where each of us were going to do our own thing, we had a sim in each of our phones (rather than say, a rental Wi-Fi).
* May 20: After dropping off our bags at our first hotel (Nishitetsu Inn Kamata) and eating near Kamata station we went to Ueno station where we walked the whole Asakusa-dori towards Asakusa where in the 3rd weekend of May they hold the Sanja Matsuri (festival). If possible I think it is nice to try and pack a Japanese festival in your travel plans, it’s just fun and interesting to see.
* May 21: day-trip to Kamakura, after which we tried to do an unplanned visit of Nihon-ji (Nokogiri-yama) but it didn’t go so well because the ferries weren’t running as often. Basically when we arrived at the other side of Tokyo Bay, it was already too late to go up to the actual temple…
* May 22: day-trip to Nikko. It was just short trip to the main shrines, after which we went back to Tokyo and my sister & friend went to the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno which she wanted to visit after all (and was the last day we would be able to do so).
* May 23: Took the Shinkansen to Sendai, dropped off our bags at the hotel (Green Mark Sendai) and went to Matsushima in the afternoon. Unfortunately it was a bit cloudy – I think this sightseeing ferry tour is better with nicer weather.
* May 24: day-trip to Hiraizumi. As mentioned with the photos (see link below) the Chusonji temple at Hiraizumi holds a golden temple that is fantastic to see, as it is untouched and super-shiny (albeit behind glass, and you are not allowed to photograph it).
* May 25: day-trip to Yamadera. Impressive mountain temple. This was my second time there, first time for my sister. Her friend decided to pass on it (I think she went to see Date Masamune’s grave or something)
* May 26 (Saturday): Took the Shinkansen back to Tokyo and then to Kanazawa. After dropping off our bags at the hotel (Garden Hotel Kanazawa) again, we went to Kenroku-en garden. That would be the only thing we got to actually see in Kanazawa itself which is too bad, considering the city has more to offer. I intend to go back there on my next solo trip.
* May 27 (Sunday): Shirakawa-go. This was just about the only day-trip that was set well in advance due to buying the bus tickets for that specific day. Fortunately, the weather was great. However the amount of time I picked for staying at Shirakawa-go (almost all day) was way too much. Fortunately, I had warned my travel companions about this in advance, so we just relaxed at one of the buildings of the Open Air Museum until it was time for the bus back.
* May 28: from Kanazawa straight to Okayama. Again after dropping off our bags at the hotel (Hotel Maira) we went to Korakuen garden & Okayama castle. Interestingly, on our last day there (June 1) there was a power-outage. Fortunately, we were all already in the lobby when that happened. Also the elevators of the hotel had stupidly fast closing doors (as in absolutely minimal pause before they close again). Which I guess made sense as there was just one elevator, but still (my sister got caught between the doors, which hurt pretty bad).
* May 29: day-trip to Himeji & Mt Shosha. I had seen Himeji before, but my sister did not (back in 2011 they were still restoring it). Back in 2011 we went to Hikone Castle instead, which is nice, but Himeji is much “grander”. Mt Shosha was new for me too.
* May 30: day-trip to Hiroshima Peace Park & Miyajima. A bit rushed, but possible. Only about 1 hour each way from Okayama to Hiroshima and back. We went to the Peace Park early in the morning, had Okonomiyaki at the station (I had planned to go to [Nagataya](https://goo.gl/maps/APgNT1859kCcgSTy7), but sadly they were closed that day). In the afternoon we went to Miyajima. I felt a bit tired so mostly rested while my sister & friend went to see Itsukushima shrine.
* May 31: day-trip to Kotohira & Ritsurin garden in Takamatsu. Sadly the inner part of Konpira was closed, so we may end up visiting again in the future. Ritsurin garden is still my favorite garden in Japan.
* June 1: moved to Kyoto, dropping bags off at our hotel again (Sotetsu Fresa Inn Kyoto-Hachijoguchi). There my sister & friend went to do something else (Kaiyukan I think) and I went to hike Daimonji-yama. I’ve been getting into hiking in Japan lately (mountains mainly) but wasn’t able to fit one into this trip until near the end. It was a fun hike, but it was also getting quite hot already.
* June 2: last day of Japan Rail Pass, took a day-trip to Kiso Valley (via Nagoya). It was a strech to do this as a day-trip, but it was worth it. Again the summer heat was starting to build up, but fortunately most of the trail between Magome and Tsumago was covered by trees.
* June 3: day-trip to Nara. My sister and I already visited Nara on our first trip (in 2011) but last time was one of those rare occasions they show special treasures or something, so there were massive lines for the museum so we skipped it (back then). This time it wasn’t crowded, so we had the chance to visit it without having to wait in line.
* June 4: not sure, I don’t have any photos of that day. I think we just relaxed and went to see Dead Pool 2 in the Aeon Mall in the afternoon (temple fatigue?). I should also mention that on one of these days my sister & friend went to see Fushimi Inari Taisha early in the morning.
* June 5: my sister and I took a tour of Shugakuin Imperial Villa. This was nice, but again sadly the day was cloudy. The place is actually more of a garden than a building.
* June 6: direct flight back to Amsterdam from Kansai Airport. To get to the airport, we used the limousine bus that departs very close to our hotel (south of Kyoto station). This bus is a little more expensive than the train, but so much more relaxed as you just give your luggage to the drive who puts it in the hold and go straight to the airport (no transfers).
All in all, I had planned way too much, but we got to see a lot of Japan in about two-and-a-half weeks. That said if anyone is planning their first trip to Japan, I’d recommend spending more time in Tokyo and way more time in Kyoto. There was also more we could have seen in Kanazawa and in the Okayama area too. So either plan a very long trip or just postpone stuff to a future trip would be my advice.
More details & photos: **https://imgur.com/a/83EcXGq**
(in case anyone is curious, most photos were taken with Sony A7RII and 24-70 F4 lens)
As for my sister & I, we hope to be able to go to Japan again together maybe in November of 2022. A very rough plan of things we want to see then includes: Nagasaki, Okayama area again (incl. cycling the Shimanami kaido if weather permits), and at least a full week of Kyoto. Even though I’ve been to Japan 10+ times (including Kyoto many times) I still found quite a few things again I have yet to see.
***Edit:*** expanded it a bit to give more of my impressions.
2 comments
Nokogiriyama was nice, but I would personally choose to do the full day in Kamakura as there is plenty to see. It took a good 2h30 each way (by train only) from Tokyo. It’s not a bad place, but I would not especially recommend for a first time visitor as I feel there is other places you should visit first.
As you did Matsushima, Hiraizumi and Yamadera, did you knew about the [pilgrimage of the four temples](https://en.japantravel.com/yamagata/tohoku-s-four-temple-pilgrimage/18180) ? You can get a book with stamps and a present once you complete the visit of the 4.
Totally agree that a full day is too much in Shirakawa-go. I stayed for the night and had booked my bus in mid afternoon the next day. I ended up walking in circle around town, waiting for the bus.
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I would agree this is not best for first timers. Now that I am not at my first trip, I personally do not mind having a 2 hours train ride at the end of the day to move form city to city. I find that some of the distance are a bit long in tour itinerary (the Kiso valley day is brutal) but well, I did Aizu-Wakamatsu to Kashihara once, and it took like 7 hours, so yes, sometimes we have our reasons do take some decisions like that.
>and for me uhm, 10th time.
As someone who plans to make Japan their main yearly trip does it like still hold up even after going 10 times? Like I have looked for other places to go and I still come back to Japan as the top of the list. I have gone once and LOVED it, but people say there’s a whole other world out there but a lot of countries seem to be trash/lacking compared to what Japan offers (world class food, nice hospitable people, easy af transport, safe af, each city/area has its own theme or industry, unique temples and gardens all around, and yeah back to the food still be in the world). Like Europe to me looks annoying af as in EVERY city it seems that there are pickpockets, fake charity scams, gouged to hell tourist places, annoyance that you’re there? When I was in Japan this is true for Tokyo more than maybe say Kyoto but it seemed that yes there are tourist places and hot spots but like LITERALLY 2 turns down an alley and you’re in some random restaurant ran by a genuine Japanese person just making good ass food. Where when I was in NYC it felt like you’d need to venture way fucking out or be a semi-local to come across random places. All I saw from Times square was starbucks and chain restaurants there is no way in HELL a random local place selling $8 ramen is anywhere near a tourist central. Where I feel like a 5 min walk out of Shibuya crossing would find good and reasonably priced restaurants with ease. I have heard the same can be said for some cities in Italy as well than you have to venture way out just to not be gouged. But it seemed to me that a 10 minute walk down the street and you’ll find some good ass food easily that wasn’t built for the tourists but instead the local Japanese and you’re just a foreigner who randomly found the place for genuine made food, not a gouged to hell place. Obviously there are some tourist traps in Japan but it seemed like it wasn’t hard to find genuine food not that far out and it wasn’t built around the tourists but instead for the locals and you’re here visiting their domain
I hope what I am asking makes sense but does Japan continue to excite you even though you have been there 10 times and continues to be a new adventure each time and not worth it to divert anywhere else because you have found the place that is worth the major expense that it traveling?