Silly operational questions re: shrines and onsen

25 comments

1. I can add some personal insight here having done plenty of both.

   1. You aren’t wrong about the shrines, they’re largely a sight seeing mission. Maybe do some research on 1 or 2 and call it a day. Meji Jingu in Tokyo and Nanzen-ji Temple in Kyoto are some of my favorites. However, I don’t go out of my way to visit temples now.
   2. Onsens are a great way to experience Japanese culture. For the most part, yes genders will be separate so you wouldn’t be with your partner. However, there are a few public onsen that allow mixed bathing, but they’re very rare and likely off the typical path of a trip foreigners would be on. Your next option would be a Ryokan that offers private onsen in your room (think a hot tub on a balcony). Sounds like if you want to share the experience with your partner that may be your best bet. However, I would really recommend finding a traditional onsen with multiple baths to get the full experience.

   Enjoy the trip!

2. 1. Shrines are different depending on which ones you visit. Most city shrines are the same (aside from the details such as appearance and deity). At these Shrines you can partake in the typical Shrine etiquette and sometimes buy blessed trinkets or pull a fortune. Other Shrines, mostly those on or around mountains, include different levels of hiking depending on the location. Fushimi Inari in Kyoto, for instance, is spread out along the mountain side and part of a greater hiking experience. Instead of looking up Shrines in a general sense, look up information on the specific Shrines you want to visit. Some are far more worth it than others.

   2. Japanese bathhouses are meant to be enjoyed as a personal relaxing experience. You don’t talk to people (unless you were in there with someone you know) and you certainly shouldn’t stare at people. Instead, focus on cleaning yourself properly and then soaking quietly in the tub. It should be around an hour experience as sitting in the hot bath for too long is not good for you and will make you dizzy. I absolutely love the bathhouse experience and reccomend it to everyone.

3. Unless you’re an actual Buddhist or Shinto worshiper, shrines are mainly a sightseeing trip yeah. A lot of them are *very* pretty, though. They also sell charms that serve as good mementos, and at the more touristy shrines there will be a lot of stalls for street food.

   As for onsen, the one I went to was pretty small and not very busy (at least at the time I was there). With strangers, you pretty much just ignore each other and enjoy soaking in the hot water. I think chatting with friends is probably fine if you’re not being rowdy. But mainly the point of them is relaxation.

4. 1) In addition to what was already said, some temples (and every now and then a shrine as well) have a nice garden, maybe with a small tea house (for matcha and sweets) or a small museum attached. But mostly it’s as you’ve said. Some also have fairly large complexes with several halls to visit or there might be an outpost shrine up the hill or in the woods.

   Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto is a famous example of that, where you can climb the whole hill behind the main hall and there’s torii and small shrines everywhere along the route.

   So it really depends on the specific shrine or temple.

   2) If you’re lucky, there’s some scenery to behold. But in general you just soak and enjoy the experience. Small talk is fine, but don’t annoy people. Most foreigners are more worried about the washing and towel etiquette. Once you’re in the water, just relax, don’t worry about this part too much.

5. 1. Same as what non-christian would do if they visit a church. You look at architecture, statues, garden, etc. take a couple of pictures. It depend on the place and what they have. If that does no go against your religious belief, you can also pray, buy lucky charms (omamori), fortune telling (omikuji, but most place is in Japanese only, so good to do it at Senso-ji as they have EN text). Yes, you can get shuin (stamp and calligraphy in book) if you are into that too. As for how long, it can be 15 minutes and it can be over an hour, it really depend on the size of the place and how much there is to see. There can also be events like festival and such and in that case, you can spend much more time. There might be exhibit in some (I know some have museum attached to the temple), but that is really not something that is common. I personally love temple and shrines and always end up checking many.
   2. In onsen, you just go in water and relax, don’t overthink it. It happened at least twice that people talked to me, but mostly because I’m clearly a foreigner, just ask where I’m from and as I reply in Japanese, they usually chat for a minute. But most of the time, people just mind their own business. Would not say that it’s that much of a social activity.

6. Some shrines and temples might have a special exhibition. For example, once a year they might display a treasured screen or statue. The reason they only display the treasures once a year(or even less frequently) is to preserve them (to avoid light damage). For me, the best thing about temples and shrines is their gardens. Most of them will be very seasonal. For example, some temples are known for their autumn leaves, or their chrysanthemums, or their irises. I like visiting temples in summer, especially if they have lotus ponds. You can google or visit the tourist offices in Tokyo and Kyoto (these tourist offices are AMAZING. They have pamphlets on every topic under the sun, like where to camp in Japan, or the night trains available in Japan). I am pretty sure the JTO website also has this information.

   About onsens: in my experience as a male, older men might stare, but not in a sleazy way or in an unwelcoming way. More like, “Oh, I guess it is true about some western men….” Younger men are much more discreet. But younger men are much, much shyer. EVERY time I went to an onsen, seniors would chat and chat with me. (I speak intermediate level Japanese). In general (and again a disclaimer: IN MY EXPERIENCE), older folks are much more chatty than the younger generation (this is also in general life). I went to onsens where drinking was allowed, and yeah, the older men are having a grand old time. But again, this will probably depend on your Japanese level. It’s not like you can bring a phone into the hot bath with you to use Google translate.

   Since you have already researched etiquette, you will know to take a shower first to wash your body before entering the hot water. Some people say to always cover the family jewels with the skimpy towel you are given, but a lot of older men do not. They let it all hang out lol. You will even see some older men wrap this towel around their heads (you know which head I mean).

   Enjoy traveling in Japan!

7. A quick reminder, I believe if you or your partner have ink/tattoo, you would need to look for tattoo friendly onsens around the area.

8. People do sometimes initiate naked small talk, I’ve had some great conversations with locals in not too crowded onsen. I don’t consider it a wasted trip if no one wants to talk, though — the whole point is to just soak and relax. Often there is excellent scenery to admire while you’re in the bath.

   It’s just a place to relax. It doesn’t have to be more complicated than that.

   As for the shrines, context makes everything more interesting. Famous debates happened at some of them, famous battles at others. Prominent figures are sometimes buried — or enshrined — there. The Seimei Shrine in Kyoto is important in the history of the tea ceremony, for example.

   My advice would be to think about what interests you about Japan and see if there’s a shrine related to that, and if there isn’t, don’t stress too much about not seeing many of them. See the Japan you want to see, not the Japan you “should” see.

9. I stayed at a hotel that had baths for hotel guests. I got over being naked pretty quickly. You can glance around to see what other people are doing. The place I went had 4-5 different baths with different temps so I tried a few out. What I did notice though is that afterward – the women spent a lot of time drying off, blow drying their hair, etc. I basically dried up got my clothes on and split.

10. Shrines and temples are beautiful and peaceful. You can buy a blank book at a temple to be signed at the various temples you visit. This is a favorite souvenir from my trip and stores well. You pay $10 for the book and $3 at each temple. Drop it at the beginning and get it back at the end, a donation to the site I’m happy to make. Acolytes do the signing in calligraphy. What do you do? Just walk around, look at the statues, be peaceful.

    At an onsen, look at nature. Enjoy the soak. Slow down.

    I imagine these questions are based on needing to be entertained. These places are about letting your mind rest.

11. From what I can tell of all the answers, both are basically sightseeing excursions meant for quiet moments and relaxation. Seems like you could really set your own time at either, I’d expect longer at an onsen to make the effort of going, paying, washing, and leaving worth it. But I know I like to spend 1+ hours sometimes just sightseeing and taking in a place, whereas other people might get bored of the same attraction and leave much sooner, so it seems like it’s up to you. 1-2 hours is probably a safe bet tho

12. 1) I think this varies a lot depending on the size of the shrine/temple. Some of the smaller temples/shrines especially in major cities might only really need 10-20 minutes to enjoy, however, some of the larger complexes have parks, attached museums/galleries and can be a 1-2 hour activity. If you feel inclined temples/shrines can be a peaceful place to relax/reflect. I’m not a particularly spiritual person, but there were definitely times/shrines where I felt inclined to (respectfully and following all of the aforementioned etiquette rules) pay respects and engage with the temple/shrine in that way. My only real advice is (1) do a little research on the shrine/temple you’re planning to visit and (2) know that if you’re doing a longer trip, depending on your preferences, “temple fatigue” is a real thing, once you’ve been to your 15th shrine/temple in one trip they can start to feel same-y.

    2) Right off the top I’ll echo that onsens/sentos are wonderful and under-utilized by tourists generally. I highly recommend trying out a number of different options as there is a wonderful panopoly of different types/styles of onsens/sentos, from little tiny neighborhood sentos that only charge ~$4-5 to palacial “super-sentos” with dozens of tubs/sauna/steam room options, attached restaurants and services, etc.

    I would agree that it’s not a particularly social activity. In smaller towns/smaller baths you will see more small groups of friends chit-chatting, but in larger complexes I found that generally it’s pretty darn quiet (although some do have a TV, often in the sauna, to watch). As someone who really loves the benefits of soaking in hot water (travelling in Japan usually involves *tons* of walking) but also generally needs some mental stimulation, I would often bring a small book in to read while I soak. While it’s relatively rare, I have definitely seen a few Japanese men reading in sentos and I never got a look for reading (just DON’T let it touch the water, and use common sense).

13. Agree with the poster below. Temples and shrines can be gorgeous and peaceful, depending when you go, but are largely sightseeing. I also don’t specifically search them out anymore, but anytime I’m just wandering around on a walk, I always stop at any temples I pass.

    Onsens can be weird and also amazing. I personally LOVE them. If I can’t get to a more traditional onsen, I’ll book a hotel with a public bath. It’s not quite same experience, but generally the etiquette is the same. I’m a big boobed white woman, and while there has definitely been some furtive checking out by Japanese women, they are generally friendly and when you are naked in a bath together, the conversation is more open and honest. Even if you can’t speak Japanese, a friendly smile and hello or konnichiwa can lead to a lovely experience and conversation. Of course, if you don’t want to chat, you don’t have to and no one will care.

    ​

    Have fun!

14. If you go to a bath house, many do not like tattoos, you may want to cover them up or they may ask you to.

15. You’re getting a lot of good answers so hopefully I’m not being too repetitive:

    1. Shrines are often just a sightseeing destination if you aren’t Shinto or Buddhist, but like others have mentioned many have tourist-focused additions to make them more entertaining, especially the really popular ones in Tokyo and Kyoto like Kinkaku-ji and Kiyomizu-dera. Many of them have shops on the property or on the roads going up to the temple. The shops leading up to Kiyomizu-dera are almost an experience on their own and I really enjoy them, they range from touristy goodies to food shops to hand crafted ceramics. There’s also fun trinkets to buy at temples that tell you your fortune, etc. Some also have cafes and restaurants which can be enjoyable. Also, depending on the temple, some are embedded on mountainsides or in forests, so some are more of a hike than others (like Fushimi-Inari), which can be fun, too.
    2. I really wouldn’t call onsen a social activity. It certainly can be, but less than half of people in any onsen interact with anyone outside of their group in my experience. When I’ve gone with the other Japanese women in my family, we mostly do our own thing and move between baths as we choose. If you’re obviously a foreigner, people may strike up conversation more than if you were Japanese. Also, while I certainly don’t suggest staring at people, you do not need to make an extreme effort to avoid looking at someone naked. Also, I’m female so I can speak only to women’s onsen, but people often cover themselves slightly with their towels while they move between baths, but you don’t have to. You can always just close your eyes while you soak, or look at the water or the landscape.

16. Shrines are mostly for sight seeing if you are not a believer. Think of it like visiting a really large and popular church. Each one is a little different and how long to spend depends a lot on your interests. If you just want to go to say you went, 20 minutes for most. If you want to wander the grounds, take pictures of the gardens or architecture, or see any special things they do, potentially a lot longer.

    Onsen, research onsen that allow both genders. They are a bit harder to find but they do exist and most of the ones my wife and I went to allowed it. Some did have a divide line with females on one side and males on the other, just sit close to the line like other couples.

    If you are solo, think of it like a hot tub at a hotel, would you normally talk to strangers? If so, go for it. Just keep the volume low. And who knows, you may come out with a new friend to join you in some after saki.

17. >What do you actually do at a shrine/temple? When I google this, I mostly get etiquette tips, which are great, but don’t answer my question. Do you just roll up, admire the buildings/scenery/etc, get your book stamped if you’re doing that, take a photo or two, and leave? Are there typically exhibits or anything? I’m having trouble knowing how much time to budget for these since I can’t picture what we’ll be doing there, so I don’t know if it’s a half-day activity or just an hour or two.

    It completely depends on what shrine or temple you’re talking about and also, to a certain extent, when specifically you’re visiting. Smaller shrines and temples might feature some attractive architecture or a nice garden or green space, but won’t have anything in terms of specific activities and you might stroll through them in a matter of minutes. Larger or more famous ones might have spectacular architecture or great historical significance, or contain gorgeous art or objects of worship or gardens or nature trails. Some may offer special activities such as zazen or tea ceremony, or specific foods like shoujin ryouri or local specialties. Some offer religious lectures (generally in Japanese) and some offer lodging (shukubo).

    Many temples and shrines act as a quasi-public space and are used as venues for a variety of events. They are typically a focal point of traditional festivals and holiday celebrations; they can be used for weddings (typically at shrines), funerals (typically at temples), and coming of age ceremonies; and their grounds may be used for more informal events like flea markets and craft fairs. They may also hold special seasonal events, such as night illuminations and/or openings, projection mapping shows, special art exhibitions, kemari games, noh performances, and martial arts competitions. And of course many of them are popular spots for seeing changing seasonal sights such as cherry blossoms or fall foliage. Depending on the timing you visit, you may be able to visit during some of these events, and I highly recommend taking advantage of the opportunity if you can.

    >What do you do while you’re in the bath at an onsen? Again, google is helpful with the etiquette but not much else. Since my spouse and I are not the same gender, we’d be visiting the baths separately (aside from potentially booking a family bath at our ryokan stay), and my impression is that this may typically be a more social activity. When you go on your own, do you just avoid looking at anyone’s body and stare out into space/scenery? Do people initiate naked small talk?

    Just sit and soak basically. Small talk can happen, but it’s not the norm. Most people will just assume you don’t speak Japanese and aren’t likely to try to talk to you even if they wanted to–especially in more traveled areas. In my experience, Japanese people are a lot more interested in small talk when you can speak Japanese and they find you well off the beaten path.

18. 1. That really depends on shrine/temple, Itsukushima-jinja is most famous for its torii gate, but historically most significant for its noh theatre. Major temple complexes in Kyoto can have different gardens in its subtemples (both traditional and rock gardens), pagodas, exhibition halls, seasonal landscaping (cherry blossoms and momiji). Certain temples and shrines have treasure halls, museums… Some of the famous ones (aside from waiting lines) can be visited in 15-20 minutes (Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji), others like Izumo Taisha, Eihei-ji can take half a day on their own.

    2. Generally you relax and soak in. And yes, I would agree with sentiment that unless you come with a party of friends, or enjoy a private onsen with your spouse – it’s not really a place to initiate small talk, although there are exceptions – in places where the community onsen (for the local population rather than tourism) are the norm, locals may initiate communication with you.

19. If you are interested in more the history and exhibits, castles are better to check out than shrines. They are usually restored with relics and historic information inside. I like both though, but there is not so much to do at a shrine.

    Yunnessan in Hakone is a place with tons of interesting hot springs (like wine hotspring, green tea hotspring etc) and you wear a bathing suit so families can go together. Inside they have a traditional hotspring as well if you want to try that. This is a fun spot to go as a couple.

20. 1. Just look around really, same as if you were going to a church and aren’t a religious person. While some of them are beautiful I wouldn’t plan on visiting loads of shrines though, unless you really love them you’ll get bored of them pretty quickly. I don’t usually bother going out of my way to see one unless it’s a particularly beautiful/significant one.

    2. Just relax! If you’re with a friend you can talk to them obviously, but most people are just there to relax. Obviously you shouldn’t stare at people, and if you’re clearly a foreigner you might get a few looks but I don’t think I’ve ever had someone start up a conversation with me at one.

21. A bit about shrine and temple appreciation. In Japan there is a saying: if you want to build a magnificent (Buddhist) temple, you must find talented artists. If you want to build a magnificent (Shinto) shrine, you must find talented carpenters.

    So as a general rule, we appreciate shrines for their understated wooden architecture which fits into its natural surroundings. Shrines are particularly known for their use of “kigumi;” intricate wood joinery. Whereas Buddhist temples are places where you can appreciate painting, sculpture and figural art, including intricate eave carving. Aside from lion-dogs and the occasional dragon ceiling mural, you don’t find much figural art at Shinto shrines.

    Shinto shrines are rooted in location, and generally revere local spirits, so there tends to be more of an open “drop-by” feeling to them (many stay open late at night). Whereas Buddhist temples were originally erected by/for a particular congregation of a Buddhist sect, and are often presided over by an on-site priest who also lives there. So they often have a more closed, restricted vibe, closing at dusk. Each sacred place will have their own tradition of worship, which you may participate in, or observe from the side. Photos are usually tolerated, so long as you don’t take pictures of individual worshippers. Sometimes particularly sacred objects and inner sanctums are also off limits. I suggest to read about each place before going, to learn about its (sometimes very long) history and folklore. Enjoy!

22. I can’t really speak about what to do at a shrine/temple. I went to an indoor onsen (Spa World in Osaka) and an outdoor one in Hakone. Both were gender separated and completely nude. Do your research ahead of time: some allow bathing suits and couples, and others are strictly gender separated and presumably nude. If you can’t read Japanese, research online and try to understand the rules. You’ll usually get a key bracelet for a locker, and you leave everything in that and take only the key into the water.

    Make sure to hydrate first thing. You’re expected to shower before entering the hot springs. You can dry off, but leave the towel in the shower area and enter the hot springs nude. Just try to be casual while walking around, no need to cover anything with your hands. Keep your eyes on the decorations and scenery.

    Once you’re in a bath with other people, a simple smile or greeting is enough. Other people are relaxing, you should just lean back and relax too. It can be hard to relax with such a strange new experience, but try not to fidget too much. Often people are visiting with friends/family of the same gender and they’ll talk among themselves. Check on your skin, pulse, and awareness once in awhile to make sure you’re not overheating. A temperature that’s normal for others may be too much for you at first. Spa World has an area with a tv and a floor where you can just lay down.

23. 1. Shrines things to do:
    – Stroll through the gardens or surroundings (depending on the shrine this can take from 30min to several hours)
    – admire the architecture and learn about the place
    – Pray (since it’s a place of prayer) or meditate
    – Partake in their rituals (purification, fortunes, etc.)
    2. Onsen:
    – If you have to ask what you can do in an onsen you may have missed the point of the onsen: it is meant to relax in the hot bath, not more, not less.
    – I don’t know what the etiquette is on small talk but I’ve never spoken to anyone while in an onsen and I’ve never seen people talk to each other (to be precise I’ve only been to 4 onsen until now)
    – I’ve always been in the onsen about 20min (you shouldn’t overdo it anyways), let’s say 30min with cleaning yourself.

    As you say you may be overthinking this a bit. For the shrines you either have to look up every shrine specifically what it offers or try to be flexible in you planning. There are less interesting shrines where you maybe only spend 10min while at others you’ll spend half a day exploring every inch of it and its surroundings.

24. My shrine visits typically are to admire the architecture and landscaping, but some have special features (e.g., the Zen rock garden or the hundreds of identical statues).

    I haven’t been to any onsens, but in sentos you just go about your business of relaxing in the water, pretty much like in a gym jacuzzi at home.

25. 1. Basically yes, for a tourist you will do exactly that. Unless you are actually Shinto/Buddhist and want to take a good look u can admire the insides of the shrine/temple via the small opening they will have to look into. Also there is a ritual that differs between shrines and temples about how to use the cleansing water, how to pray and ring the bells etc but most places won’t have instructions for tourists (unless its in a tourist area) as this is common knowledge for Japanese. Its hard to explain in writing but if you want to try it you can probably find a video somewhere.

    2. Yes you go in separate gender baths. Although again with very local Japanese towns (countryside, smaller towns etc) there still exists some shared baths. Children under a certain age generally can go either way. You don’t make conversation with strangers. If anything even when going as a group most locals go to enjoy the time to ‘wind down’. I think you will understand when you go. Once you get in you can just close your eyes and soak peacefully and feel your stress and worries float away. Most baths will have more than 1 ‘pool’ (and they vary in temperature. Some places will have thermometers showing the temp and also a cold bath near the entrance for entering/exiting) so once you are ready you can move to another pool. Advised not to stay in the onsen for more than 45 minutes as you can get dizzy especially if you are not used to it. Go for the full experience and get a cold bottle of milk from the vending machines after 🙂 it is a common Japanese thing to do. The milk in onsen is only sold to onsens (myself and many friends living in Japan all say its the best milk but that might be because of the overall experience tied to it haha). There will be a small crate-like thing nearby where you place your empty bottle for recycling.

    Have fun! 🙂