Convinced myself to give back to the community by writing this interesting trip of mine done just before the pandemic.
> Background:
I did this trip with the intention of visiting a friend in Tokyo and hanging out with them after they finish work, then after a week utilize the JR pass to the maximum and visit a couple of cities. Solo 28 M Single. Speaks super beginner level Japanese.
> Pre-trip preparations:
> Tickets
1) Airasia flight from KUL to Fukuoka return tickets MYR 1,028 ~ 26,000 yen ~ USD 250
2) Peach Air from Fukuoka to Tokyo 8,250 yen one way
3) JR Pass 7 days –> 29,650 Yen with 20 % discount via Klook = 23,720 yen
4) Ghibli museum tickets (booked on 10th of October) 2,000 yen
> Sim cards
1) 4G sim card 7 days –> 2,000 yen with 20 % discount via Klook = 1,600 yen
2) 4G sim card 7 days –> 2,300 yen with 20 % discount via Klook = 1,840 yen
> Tours
1) Hiroshima Cycling Peace Tour MYR 273 ~ 6,900 yen ~ USD 65
> Accomodations (All paid at check in):
1) 9 Hours Asakusa –> October 28 to November 4 –> 20,020 yen
Note: The capsule hotel made us check out and check in every day but you could keep your luggage in the locker. You keep your same capsule number for the entire duration but need to vacate the capsule by 10am each day so that they can clean it. There is a Finish cafe called Fuglen downstairs.
2) Matsue urban hotel –> November 6 –> 2,614 yen
3) Konya Ryokan at Tamatsukuri, Matsue –> November 7 –> 19,665 yen
4) Capsule Hotel CUBE Hiroshima –> November 8 to November 9 –> 7,000 yen
5) Nine Hours Nakasukawabata Station, Fukuoka –> November 10 –> 1,584 yen
> JR Pass utilization
1) Ueno to Echigo Yuzawa
2) Echigo Yuzawa to Ueno
3) Sunrise Izumo from Tokyo to Izumo
4) Matsue to Okayama
5) Okayama to Hiroshima
6) Hiroshima to Fukuoka
> Day 0 October 27
Head to airport at 1930 for my 2345 flight to Fukuoka. Got onto plane and realized that the flight is rather empty so I got a 3 seat row to myself.
> Day 1 October 28
Arrived at Fukuoka International Airport at 0705 (first flight of the day to arrive in Fukuoka).
Immigration and customs were really nice, they asked if I can speak and wanted to check my baggage, amused when they saw I brought instant ramen (for my friends).
Withdrew 100,000 yen from the 7-bank ATM from debit card after passing immigration and took the airport shuttle to the domestic terminal.
Kept my luggage in a locker, since I would be back at the airport for my domestic flight to Tokyo later in the day
Topped up my Suica from my previous trip to Japan in 2015 (The card doesn’t expire for 10 years after last use). (Should have bought a one day pass for Fukuoka Subway for 640 yen)
Headed downtown via the Subway to Hakata Station. Wanted to exchange my JR Pass but the line was long so decided against it.
Bought some croissants for breakfast from Il Forno del Mignon which specializes in Croissants especially the mentaiko ones.
Needed a bath. So headed to Tenjin station and walked to Yu no Hana Onsen bath house. Washed up and refreshed myself for the day ahead.
Headed back to Hakata Station for lunch @ Hakata Issou at Hakata Station East Main Shop. Small queue but the wait is bearable in the cold weather. (I think this ramen shop is better than Ichiran, which I had later in the trip)
Walked around Hakata a bit to kill time before heading back to Fukuoka Airport around 1530 for my 1700 flight to Tokyo (Note: You could only check in 90 minutes before the flight so I had to store my luggage in a locker earlier in the morning)
Reach Narita airport at 1900. Long walk to main terminal. Exchanged JR pass at JR Office with friendly English speaking staff, enquired some availability of some train rides, found that an important train ride I was going to take only had 2 seats left for next week (the day I wanted was fully reserved). Needed to make some changes to my itinerary.
Took the Keisei Main Line as I was headed to Asakusa 1,110 yen . Train is crowded but this is the cheapest option compared to Narita Express around 3,200 yen or Keisei Skyliner 2,250 yen. In retrospect could have take the Keisei Sky access line for 1,290 yen instead.
Reached Asakusa and went to my Capsule Hotel, 9 Hours Asakusa to check in.
Head for dinner at nearby local shop Chuka Shokudo Hidakaya.
Back to hotel to rest after long day.
> Day 2 October 29
Got breakfast at Lawson’s.
Took train to Yurukuchou to have a look at the Alcohol Vending Machine corner 食安自動販売機コーナー
Head to Team Lab Planets using public bus. (Next to Shin Toyosu Station)
Had fun at Team Lab Planets (Not so crowded as compared to Team Lab Borderless)
Took Yurikamome line to Aomi (wanted to go to Team Lab Borderless as well but decided against it due to the crowds)
Hang out around Venus Fort and Palette Town. Checked out the ongoing technology exhibition there. Had lunch.
Took Yurikamome line to Shimbashi and passed by the rainbow bridge. Headed back to hotel for rest as I have to meet up with my friend at night for Yakitori.
Headed to Yuutenji to meet up with friend @ Motsuyaki Ban. Origin of the Lemon Sour cocktail (lovely drink). Good Yakitori place! (Sidenote: Learned from my friend that to ask for water you say “O Hie”. Curious about the Kanji/Kana if anyone can shed any light on this)
Desserts at Jiyugaoka Cafe La Mille. The Crepes are really good!
Parted with friend and headed back to hotel.
Went to Don Quijote to check out stuff (They are open 24 hours).
> Day 3 October 30
Previously learned about Gyomu Super from some Youtuber. They are basically wholesale supermarkets with great prices on goods and snacks. Headed to one in Asakusa to have a look.
Main plan of the day after that is to head to Akihabara.
Reserved my JR Shinkansen tickets using my JR Pass here. Learned some Japanese train terms like 窓側の席 (Madogawa no seki –> Window Seat) and 通路側の席 (Tsuurogawa no seki –> Aisle Seat)
Spend whole day in Akihabara, checking out most of the shops around the area for Otaku goods. Went around Chuo-dori and the side streets.
Shosen Book Tower –> Got a magazine I wanted to get on my shopping list.
Card World Tower –> have a look at Magic The Gathering Cards (They do sell English ones)
Animate –> Check out the prices of some anime and manga related goods.
Sega Arcade –> Have a little fun with arcade games.
Checked out some second hand shops for some figures and nendoroids. –> Socred a good deal for some of the stuff in my wish list.
Got a Hanko for fun. The shop owner was kind enough to do my Chinese name as the Kanji in my name is not normal Kanji.
Checked out the nearby Takarajima 24 for a rest before dinner. (For research purposes)
Walked to Manseibashi and savoured the night scenary of Chuo-dori before heading back to hotel.
> Day 4 October 31
Started the morning by walking to Ueno to visit Ameyoko.
Bought myself a new pair of shoes for around 5,000 yen (claimed tax exemption as tourist and did not have to pay the 10% consumption tax)
Went around Ueno park
Visit the Shitamachi museum , they have English tours.
Bought some discount snacks in Ameyoko. (Discount Chocolate Shimura 1 bag for 1,000 yen)
Headed to Yanaka Ginza shopping street (Nippori station) for a visit.
Went back to Asakusa abd visited Kappabashi dori Kitchen Town.
Got dinner to go from a local Karrage place and had dinner in a park.
Visited the local supermarket late at night when the items are half off and got my next day’s breakfast and lunch.
> Day 5 November 1
Took a walk along side the Sumida River in the morning. Destination: Edo-Tokyo Museum.
Checked out the Museum’s Samurai Exhibition and the main museum.
Went to Tokyo Dome to check out the place. It’s fun to watch people riding the roller coaster!
Had lunch at Tetsu (Tsukemen place). You could request to reheat the soup and they will give you a piece of hot rock to put in to do so. (Place is closed in 2021)
Headed to Shibuya to meet up with friend. Had dinner in Gyukatsu- motomura which is a place serving Beef Katsu on a hot plate, really cool concept.
> Day 6 November 2
Went to Akihabara again, purchased all the magazine and manga on my shopping list in Sofmap (This shop provides the tourist tax free facility so you can get the tax rebate) . Got some Doujins from Melon Books.
Ghibli Museum slot is in the afternoon, headed to Mitaka to meetup with friend. Took the Ghibli themed bus to the museum. Boy it was so crowded! BTW, your ticket is a film strip from one of the Ghibli movies and I got 1 from Ponyo.
Got some souvenirs and had fun around the place taking pictures.
Took bus back to Kichijoji. Queued to buy Satou Menchikatsu (Minced Beef croquettes). The queue was unbelievable and the Menchikatsu probably the best one I ever had.
Dinner at Isomaru Suisan. It’s a 24 hour chain of Japanese Izakaya which has some really good seafood, I can’t believe I skipped this the first time I came to Japan. There is some fun to having a portable stove in front of you have having your seafood cooked in front of you.
Visited the Starbucks Roastery along Meguro River. This place has a 4 floors, each dedicated to their different brands. Really eye opening experience. Checked out the beautiful view of Meguro River from the top floor.
Back to Hotel.
> Day 7 November 3
Took train to Yokohama.
Stopped at Minato Mirai Station and walked along the river, checking out the theme park alongside it.
Headed to the cup noodle museum. Learned the history of cup noodles. Had some interesting noodles at the restaurant in the museum.
Walked to Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse. Really fun place to walk around, like an outdoor shopping complex.
Went to see the Hikawa Maru ship docked near the river.
Headed to ChinaTown. Bought some Gyoza and Shumai and Nikuman at one of the famous shops. Walked around the streets to check out the place.
Headed back to Tokyo Hotel.
> Day 8 November 4
JR Pass day 1.
Headed to Tokyo Station. Visited the iconic Nihonbashi and the zeroth KM Marker in the middle of the bridge.
Took JR Yokosuka Line to Yokosuka. Head to Tsunami Restaurant and Bar to have lunch. The Yokosuka Kaigun Curry and Obama Burger is really good.
Visited the battleship Mikasa.
Headed back to Kamakura.
Visited Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.
Visited Kamakura Daibutsu (Buddha) at Kotokuin
Took the Enoden train back from Fujisawa back to Kamakura station.
Headed back to hotel.
> Day 9 November 5
JR Pass day 2.
Checked out of hotel. Took a bullet train to Echigo Yuzawa Station.
Visited the sake vending machine shop, had a bath at the sake onsen there. Checked out the souvenir shops.
Head back to Shinjuku to meet up with friend for dinner. Had dinner at Wakasaya and desserts at A Happy Pancake. (No joke, Japanese Pancakes are heavenly)
Say goodbye to friend and head back to Tokyo Station, pick up my luggage, got a Ekiben and boarded my train (Sunrise Izumo).
Nobinobi seats allow you to lie down and sleep while the train heads to destination.
> Day 10 November 6
JR Pass day 3.
Had breakfast (Tokyo Bento)
Train arrived late into Izumo due to some technical issues. (first time this happened on my 2 visits to Japan.)
Left my luggage at the luggage locker.
Took Ichibata Railway to Izumo Taisha.
Went to pray at the temple (This temple is for Okuninushi no Okami, deity of good relationships and marriage)
Had lunch at Yakumo, a Izumo Soba Restaurant. They have a 3 layered Soba Bento box where you pour the broth onto the next layer when you finish the upper layers.
Walked around the area.
Head back to Izumo station and headed to Matsue.
Checked in to my accomodation .
Had dinner at a kushikatsu place.
> Day 11 November 7
JR Pass day 4.
Checked out of hotel. Went around Matsue.
Withdraw another 100,000 yen from the ATM at 7 eleven.
Took the Matsue Horikawa Yuransen (Boat Tour). This is pretty fun as the boat master will sing and tell you about the local history (in Japanese of course) while rowing the boat and everytime you pass below a bridge you will be asked to lie down as the roof will be folded in. (Tourists get a discount by showing your passport)
Visited Matsue castle (One of the well preserved Japanese castles) (Discount here as tourist as well)
Had dessert at Chidori Chaya.
Checked out the former residence of Lafcadio Hearn also known as Koizumi Yakumo (Greek Irish author)
Went to Rihaku Sake Brewery and got some nice Sake.
Picked up luggage and headed to my next accomodation, Konya Ryokan at Tamatsukuri. The receptionist who met me spoke really good English. Served me some tea and mochi while they prepped my room.
Got led to my room to rest, they also let me know that I will have dinner at 1930 at one of the dining rooms. Went for a quick soak in the onsen before dinner.
Dinner is fantastic, it’s a typical Ryoukan Kaiseki Ryouri showcasing the region’s best. They even have to menu written (in Japanese of course) to let you know what you are having. My favourite part is the Shijimi Manju (manju made from Clam from Lake Shinji?) Had some interesting conversation with the Okami-san who was serving me with my basic Japanese.
Went for another soak in the baths, then turn in for the night.
> Day 12 November 8
JR Pass day 5
Woke up early to catch a train to Hiroshima. Had breakfast prepared by the Ryoukan, then got a ride to the station by the Ryoukan staff.
Stopped at Okayama to transit to a Shinkansen. Got a Momotaro themed bento box for lunch.
Reached Hiroshima, headed to Hotel via Tram.
Checked in, then headed out to meet up with my tour for the day.
Joined up with Hiroshima Cycling Peace Tour. The tour guide Shin is a native of Hiroshima and had 3 of us to guide for the day. We rode rented electric bikes to multiple attractions in the city while he explained at each location the history of Hiroshima and the atomic bombings.
Among the places we visited are the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, Chugoku Regional Military HQ Air Defense Room, Gokoku-Shrine, Hiroshima Castle, Red Cross Hospital, the tram depot, Miyuki Bridge.
Got a tip that the best Hiroshima Okonomiyaki is Kasane Gasane, so headed there for dinner.
Head back to hotel after that.
> Day 13 November 9
JR Pass day 6
Head to Miyajima for the day.
Took the JR Miyajima Ferry as it is part of the JR Pass.
There are lots of deer on the island.
Unfortunately the Itsukushima Shrine Torii is under renovation, so did not have a chance to see the Torii gates.
Take the chance to try some Anago Chikuwa (Conger Eel Fish Cake), Anago-man (Conger Eel filled bun) and Hiroshima Oysters. The souvenir to get from here is Momiji Manju (Leaf shaped Soft Cake filled with Azuki Bean paste)
Reserved seat on the Miyajima Ropeway, there are limited amount of seats, so you have to reserve and come back 1 to 2 hours later to get your ride.
Spent a few hours on the mountain hiking around and enjoying the beautiful nature and scenary.
Head back around sunset. Headed into town to have dinner at the Bakudanya (Spicy Tsukemen place). Spicy lovers are in for a treat. I had the spiciest sauce they could make topped off with Setouchi Lemonade.
Head back to hotel to rest.
> Day 14 November 10
JR Pass day 7
Headed to Hondori Shopping street to walk around.
Checked out the actual Hypocenter of the atomic explosion and the A-Bomb Dome.
Checked out of hotel, then head to Fukuoka.
Reached Hakata, bought a 1 day subway pass, then headed to Nakasu Kawabata station to check in at my final accomodation. (Really nice capsule hotel that just opened.)
Headed out to check out a few places.
Visited Nanzoin Temple.
Came back to town and visited Oohori Park.
Head to Ichiran main shop for final dinner.
Shopped at Book-Off to try to get some older books I wanted to get.
Checked out the Yatai scene alongside the river.
Back to hotel.
> Day 15 November 11
Early checkout
Head to airport for flight back home.
> Thoughts
Probably needed to visit Ramen museum and Motomachi (Western street) in Yokohama, and spend more time in Kamakura/Enoshima/Fujisawa area.
7 comments
Amazing write-up! Capsule hotels are so cheap and efficient, especially if you’re on your own and have luggage that will fit in a locker.
Cold water at a restaurant is ohiya お冷
> Took the Keisei Main Line as I was headed to Asakusa 1,110 yen . […] In retrospect could have take the Keisei Sky access line for 1,290 yen instead.
I was quite confused by this sentence at first. The Keisei line does not go to Asakusa at all, it goes to Ueno, so you had to take the subway from Ueno to Asakusa. So yes, the Keisei Sky Access would have been better as it goes direct to Asakusa. It’s just a detail, but the Keisei Sky Access is the name of the train and not the line, it use different line and actually at the point it reach Asakusa, it have changed to be a subway on the Toei Asakusa line.
>Learned some Japanese train terms like 窓側の席 (Madogawa no seki –> Window Seat) and 通路側の席 (Tsuurogawa no seki –> Aisle Seat)
I can teach you some other train terms if one day you want to buy limited express tickets outside of the JR Pass. 自由席 (jiyuu seki –> unreserved seat, literally “free seat”), 指定席 (shitei seki –> reserved seat).
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It’s cool to see people going to Shimane prefecture, it’s not so common to see it here. My last trip I took 2 weeks to move from Fukuoka to Kobe, but only traveling along the sea of Japan coast, like Matsue, Tottori. I also went to Izumo, Tamatsukuri onsen and Matsue.
I’d be lying if I said I don’t miss trip reports! Thanks for sharing!
As someone who is planning a solo trip to Japan I really appreciate this post. Thank you!
Great read. I really want to go to Shimane some day. I’m not sure why, it just looks really pleasant, especially the Oki Islands.
Also I really wish we had Hidakaya in my neck of the woods. Probably my favourite restaurant chain ever. Decent ramen, great gyoza and a pint of draft beer for like $12.
Excellent trip report. Did you published your first Japanese trip?
Did the ryokan offer a single traveler price? Many seem to cater to couples with no single discount. Luckily there are kaiseki restaurants.
I too ate at the Ichiran main shop in Fukuoka just because. Quite meh compared to what’s available elsewhere.
You didn’t mention any laundry. For three weeks traveling light I needed to find a laundromat.