**Intro**
My wife and I have previously been in Japan during cherry blossom season in 2018, visiting Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Kinosaki Onsen. This time, we’re coming with our 8-month old because we had a ton of points we wanted to burn on flights/hotels, and because we loved Japan so much the first time around!
Reading the wiki, resources, and recent trip reports here, especially those with infants/toddlers have been super helpful.
Since we’ve been there already, we don’t feel a need to maximize our experience – we want to take things easy, enjoy the neighborhoods, play things more by ear given nap schedules, and walk a bit less than the 10 miles/day we averaged last time. Here is our rough sketch itinerary and a set of questions afterwards.
**Tokyo (March 8-13), Airbnb in Omotesando**
On Wed Mar 8, we will arrive in HND at 8:45pm, grab a bite at the airport, taxi to Airbnb, and try to pass out.
For these 4 days, we plan to:
* Pick up baby basics at the Mega Don Quijote Shibuya Honten (e.g., diapers, wipes)
* Hang out in cafes in Omotesando (e.g., Streamer Coffee, Chachanoma, Breadworks, Tsuta Coffee)
* Eat in local spots (e.g., Tonkatsu Nanaido, Aoyama Bouyourou, Shimada, Temma Curry Aoyama)
* Check out department stores
* Maybe visit the Ghibli museum (will buy tickets on Feb 9) and the Pokemon Center Shibuya
**Hokkaido (March 13-18), Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono**
On Mon Mar 13, we plan to take the 10:44am Hayabusa from Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto, then the 3:20pm Hokuto Limited Express to Oshamambe, then the 4:38pm Local Otaru to Kutchan, then a taxi to the hotel. We will use a 7-day JR Pass for the round trip.
For these 4 days, we plan to:
* Explore the hotel
* Potentially ski for a day (rent equipment)
* Potentially explore a local town for a day (via taxi/train)
**Tokyo (March 18-23), Andaz Tokyo**
On Sat Mar 18, we’ll take the reverse journey, departing Kutchan at 12:35pm and arriving in Tokyo Station at 8:32pm, then taxi to the hotel.
For these 4 days, our plan is to:
* Eat at family-friendly spots recommended by the hotel for lunch (e.g., Nihon Yakiniku Hasegawa, Imahan Ginza, Kyubei Ginza Honten, Bifteck no Kawamura Ginza)
* Walk into other spots that look good for dinner (e.g., Matoi, Ramen Horiuchi, Unafuji, Umedu, Oniyamma Shimbashi)
* Spend some time in local cafes/department stores in the area and in Ginza
For departure day, Thu Mar 23, we’ll spend the night before our flight at an airport hotel so we can get to the airport lounge as early as we can manage.
**Questions**
1. We’re planning on bringing just a carrier, no carseat or stroller; are we crazy? Will taxis give us trouble for not having a carseat?
2. Aside from konbinis and gyudon spots like Matsuya, Yoshinoya, and Sukiya, are there other cheap, casual breakfast spots we should keep an eye out for, or family-friendly, nicer Japanese breakfast spots?
3. I don’t see a way to reserve seats on the last leg of the trip via JR Pass (the Local Otaru from Oshamambe to Kutchan), and the connection looks pretty tight (10 mins). Am I missing something, or does it not require an advance reservation with a JR Pass?
4. Are there any towns/daytrips worth going to near Hanazono, either by taxi or by train?
5. From what I’ve seen in other posts, it seems like in terms of baby etiquette, change diapers at home or in a bathroom, but it’s ok to breastfeed as needed?
6. Has anyone used a “wash and fold” laundry service in Tokyo? We’d like to travel light, and while our Airbnb has a washer, the hotels will charge an exorbitant amount, and we’d like to avoid sitting around a coin laundromat for half a day.
7. Are there any must-eats near Omotesando, Niseko, or Ginza?
3 comments
>We’re planning on bringing just a carrier, no carseat or stroller; are we crazy? Will taxis give us trouble for not having a carseat?
Japanese taxi’s are exempt from carseat laws. Lap or sling across you.
>Aside from konbinis and gyudon spots like Matsuya, Yoshinoya, and Sukiya, are there other cheap, casual breakfast spots we should keep an eye out for, or family-friendly, nicer Japanese breakfast spots?
Japan doesn’t really *do* breakfast restaurants. They certainly have some, but this may be a “google in your area” type of thing. A lot of even breakfast specific places don’t open til like 10. Konbinis are often your best friend for breakfast, as it is for many Japanese workers.
>I don’t see a way to reserve seats on the last leg of the trip via JR Pass–Am I missing something, or does it not require an advance reservation with a JR Pass?
Some trains you can only reserve in person at a JR counter. Since it’s a “local” line I’d assume that’s the case or they just don’t do reservations.
>From what I’ve seen in other posts, it seems like in terms of baby etiquette, change diapers at home or in a bathroom, but it’s ok to breastfeed as needed?
Do what you have to do but know that will be considered *extremely* rude; socially speaking Japan is still widely a very modest place.
>Has anyone used a “wash and fold” laundry service in Tokyo?
This is a tough one. If you’re worried about price, I’d say go to a laundromat and only wash, then hang dry in your hotel room (taking an hour as opposed to half a day). A wash and fold laundry service won’t be any cheaper than the hotel doing it for you.
>Are there any must-eats near Omotesando, Niseko, or Ginza?
Depends on your tastes! And you’ll have to see which ones are “baby” friendly. Many restaurants are hesitant about anything that could “disrupt the atmosphere” so they don’t often accommodate babies very well. It can be kind of tough, but there are great options if you’re willing to look. Of course this isn’t the case for “family” restaurants and some restaurants will be clearly marked as baby friendly.
With regards to your question: yes, while taxis are allowed to take kids without a car seat, many will refuse. And you should also really consider if you want to take a 8 month old in a car (that you are not driving yourself) without a proper car seat. I would never do it at home and would thus never do it abroad…especially not if it’s not an emergency. You can rent car seats in Japan or ask the hotels to find you a taxi with a car seat…it takes longer and more planning beforehand but your baby will be mich safer.
There are many places to comfortably breastfeed so you don’t have to go to the toilet. Covering up is perfectly fine. Changing diapers in public is also not frowned upon, babies are the king and queens in Japan 😉
I wanted to chime in on breakfast from my experience, as there are a few things worth mentioning:
1. Obviously, combinis are great and can easily serve as a go-to breakfast option, especially if you’re on the go and want to get out early for sightseeing, etc. I’ve eaten a ton of combini onigiri and egg salad sandwiches and I enjoy them every time.
2. If you’re traveling on a train (e.g. from Tokyo to Kyoto) then you can always pick up an ekiben for breakfast to eat on the train (as long as your train is leaving during the morning). This place in Tokyo station is pretty popular, just as an example: [https://goo.gl/maps/1Jy5w2YiHfTtZQig9](https://goo.gl/maps/1Jy5w2YiHfTtZQig9)
3. I want to give a shout-out to Japanese bakeries because I became obsessed with them on both trips I’ve made to Japan. Places like this are all over the major cities and you’ll find much better quality baked goods (and much greater variety) than what you’ll typically see at the combinis: [https://goo.gl/maps/nfHN2z6ZiMMZJE6z9](https://goo.gl/maps/nfHN2z6ZiMMZJE6z9)
4. I fell in love with egg sandwiches from Eggslut last time I was in Japan in 2019: [https://goo.gl/maps/vXepAwFWSgkUt5ht8](https://goo.gl/maps/vXepAwFWSgkUt5ht8) – there are a few locations and they’re counter service only like a fast-food place, but you could then go and sit down to eat inside.
5. You can find Japanese pancakes everywhere, A Happy Pancake is the most well known place I can think of and they have a lot of locations all over the country, ex: [https://goo.gl/maps/iVu72Gre1Ny2TA7v9](https://goo.gl/maps/iVu72Gre1Ny2TA7v9) They’re typical restaurants with servers and I think they’re family-friendly (I’m pretty sure I’ve seen kids there before).
6. Traditional Japanese breakfast would typically consist of a set meal with grilled fish, rice, and soup (plus a few small additions), but these types of places typically don’t open until 10 or 11 AM, as you can see here: [https://goo.gl/maps/gVrdq3r1usca4v3H6](https://goo.gl/maps/gVrdq3r1usca4v3H6)
7. There are also dedicated onigiri places, but they also typically open after 10 or 11 AM: [https://goo.gl/maps/AVXG2zRRor18S6KX8](https://goo.gl/maps/AVXG2zRRor18S6KX8)
8. Department stores have amazing food courts (typically in the basement) where you can get a bunch of different things to eat for breakfast if you’re so inclinded, but those stores typically also open after 10 AM: [https://goo.gl/maps/e2iPEXFTFuKjZT6u9](https://goo.gl/maps/e2iPEXFTFuKjZT6u9)
9. I loved eating kaisendon for breakfast, ex: [https://goo.gl/maps/14LJdJP8J1RzfHQg7](https://goo.gl/maps/14LJdJP8J1RzfHQg7) (although this place opens at 11 AM). You can also find a lot of kaisendon places in Tsukiji Outer Market area and it makes a great meal, which might open earlier.
10. Coffee shops and cafes typically have quick breakfast options as well, and you’ll usually be able to sit down and eat if you’re so inclined.