Trip Report, Jan 31st – Feb 10 (Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nikko)

After finding so much helpful information from trip reports on this sub, I’m happy to finally post my own after finishing a 10 day Japan trip through Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Nikko.

Apologies for the extremely long post, I kept notes during the trip and just did a stream of consciousness dump. This is what came out. I hope it’s not too boring and instead gives a bit of colour to some of the places we visited.

Key points

\-this was a ‘guys trip’ for me and a travel buddy

\-took $500 yen in cash

\-used Ubigi esim purchased and setup in advance

\- put an initial $50 on suica, probably $100 in total.

\- used CC for the rest

\-both hotels were booked in advance

\- masking was in place everywhere indoors and out, bought super comfy ones there

\- I don’t speak Japanese but thanks to this sub had a toolbox of useful phrases ready. Sumimasen, daijobo desu ka, doko desu ka, okike onegai shimase. Other than that you can pantomime your way through most interactions.

\-google lens/translate was a life saver

\-Used “Visit Japan Web” to prefill disembarkation, declaration and quarantine info. Made the airport easy to navigate.

Arrival Day 1 – 5:30pm local time

Picked up and activated 7 day JR pass at the airport, used it for the Narita express to Tokyo station. Bought Suica card at station. We transferred to a shinkansen taking us to Kyoto. Wayfinding at the airport and Tokyo station is spectacular. We were on a tight schedule to catch the Kyoto shinkansen so this was important.

I’ve seen some debate on whether it’s worth it to go to Kyoto the same day rather than staying the night in Tokyo and I think it was worth it to not blow a day for resting.

Rolled into Kyoto after a 14-hour flight, 1 hr Narita express and a 3 hr shinkansen to Kyoto. Quite the day of travel! Walked to the hotel from Kyoto JR station rather than taking the subway one stop to Gojo station. We stayed the Blossom Kyoto, one of the nicest hotels I’ve had the pleasure to stay at. Dropped off the bags, did a walk around the hotel to get our bearings, grabbed snacks at 7-11 and finally crashed hard.

Day 2 – Shrines and Gion

Up at 7am, out the door by 730. Walked down to Kyoto station and passed random temple (Higashi Hongan-ji) on the way and thought, let’s check this out! Off with the shoes for a little wander – lovely spot. This would become a recurring theme during the trip – what the hell is this thing and let’s check it out.

Took the JR train to Inari station to see the Fushimi-Inari shrine. This is the one with the hundreds of Torii gates. We were greeted with signs banning smoking and loud talking (lest you shame your ancestors) and warnings of wild boars and troops of aggressive monkeys!

Lots of climbing as you go up the hill to reach the summit of Mt. Inari. This was good because it thinned out the crowd as you went along. What a great introduction to Japan! Upon reaching the summit, we noticed a path continuing down the other side, so rather than going back the way we came we decided to continue. This turned out to be an auspicious decision.

Rather than descending, this new path took us further up the mountain along narrow, less maintained paths; moss covered shrines perched upon elaborate ancient stonework greeting us along the way. This was clearly off the beaten path. After climbing for about half an hour, the stone paths ended and turned into dirt mountain trails; the shrines largely disappeared save for a few hidden deep into the woods, mostly inaccessible without great effort.

I hastily fashioned myself a boar spear as I did not want to get Baratheon’d- imagining my injured body ravaged by furious, bloodthirst, boar-riding monkeys. Now descending, the run of the mill foliage turned from maple to massive, majestic cedars! The path itself was easy enough to traverse for boar fleeing, so we had that going for us.

After crossing a few mountain streams, we finally emerged at a power substation of some sort. We found out later this was the opposite side of the mountain. (Entrance to the Inariyama tunnel for anyone interested). We hadn’t encountered a single soul since diverging, what seemed like hours ago, from the main tourist path. Google maps said it was a 1.5 hour walk back to the station. We were like no way – experience proved otherwise.

So began our walking journey through industrial Kyoto, parallel to the raised, partially covered E-1 toll road. Our pace was matched by a postman on an ebike delivering mail to the various autobody shops, metal fabrication shops and heavy equipment sheds. Now entering an entirely residential area, we got a lot of strange looks from the locals. Let the bowing commence! Roughly 90 minutes later we reached Inari station and took the train back to Kyoto station – arriving noonish.

Since we skipped breakfast, we were both starving. Took another poster’s advice and ate at Kasu Kasa curry house – it did not disappoint -a super delicious way to recharge from our morning adventure.

After lunch we took the Shijo bridge a cross the Kamo river with the plan of wandering around Gion and visiting Kiyomizu-dera temple. Immediately saw a Geisha scurrying across the street, her handler flagging down a cab. I wondered about using one of the many blue garbage nets dotting the side of the road to capture this elusive creature but thought better of it. Made a mental note to purchase a tranq gun.

Roaming through the charming historic Gion alleyway we noticed hundreds of kimono clad school aged girls purchasing sweets and taking pictures. Some had fox masks worn on the side of their head.

Kiyomizu-dera temple itself was spectacular, with huge viewing platforms overlooking the gardens and walkways. Even more kimono clad girls here.

After the temple we crossed back over the river to the Pontocho area for dinner. This is another cool atmospheric area alongside the river with narrow alleyways filled with quaint restaurants. Two Geisha almost collide with us before entering a non-descript door amidst the restaurants. To my untrained eye they appeared to be the more elaborate Maiko Geisha, which I think are apprentice Geisha. 5 minutes later along the same alleyway we are passed by two women dressed in what appeared to be Balinese costumes, followed by another pair in south Pacific dress. Not Geisha, but entertainers of some sort.

Everywhere was packed so we decided to leave Pontocho and eat elsewhere. Upon leaving we encounter yet another pair of Geisha, this time the plainer adorned, fully fledged Geiko Geisha. They move almost silently and with purpose; surely aware of the curious stare of the surrounding tourists, yet never meeting their gaze. Quickly into another sliding door and they are gone. I’m barely over my rage at not picking up that net earlier when yet another pair of Balinese dancers enter the same club.

Ravenous, we left Pontocho, walked back to the hotel and ate a lovely cafe – lemon-themed Capri Shokudo. Exhausted, back to the hotel for a well-deserved crash.

Apple fitness says we walked 31.6 km, over 40k steps! Feet ache. Dreams of Geishas chase me to sleep.

Day 3 – Osaka day trip.

Early 730am start has us walking to Kyoto station. We stop at the Mister donut in the main promenade for breakfast steak buns. There was a mix-up with booking the shinkansen to Osaka so we had to go back the JR office to re-book.

This is the beauty of the JR pass and its unlimited use. Not having to worry about missing a train or getting a ticket wrong was one thing we never stressed over.

Quick shinkansen (maybe 45 min?) into Osaka station. Our first stop was Himeji castle so getting off at Osaka rather than Shin-Osaka made it easier to transfer to the subway. Left the subway station and saw a baseball field with the largest foul-ball area I’ve ever seen. Foul balls are outs in Japanese baseball!

Wandered the grounds of the castle but didn’t do the museum tour. For some insane reason the place is filled with rolling-luggage toting tourists than can be heard long before being seen. Why would anyone do this?

Now in Osaka proper, this was our first experience with “everyone rides their bikes on the sidewalks” in Japan. Somehow it works and I don’t have the urge to clothesline anyone. Staying to the left side of the sidewalk works for walking but the bikes swerve in and out of foot traffic.

Osaka is far grittier than Kyoto (even Kyoto’s industrial area was somewhat picturesque). Graffiti pops up now and then, the place reminds me a bit of Chicago. Walk to Shin-Sekai, supposedly modeled after New York’s Coney Island. It has seen better days. Next to Kuromon market for Okonomiyaki. It was heftier than expected and delicious. Took about 15 minutes to make so we checked out the rest of the market.

At some point we passed through Dotonburi, which we planned to hit up at night for dinner. Walked to Amerika-Mura where we stumbled upon a gaggle of teenage girls, faces pressed against the glass of an indoor stage where to their delight, an androgenous boy band performed live. Stood around in triangle park. Lots of second-hand clothes shops.

There was a gigantic open-air mall here – there are many open air malls in Japan. Back home anything open air would be filled with squirrels, racoon nests and pigeon hatcheries. Rusted broken down escalators would lead to homeless encampments and makeshift toilets. But not here. Everything is gleaming and perfectly functioning. We played a game of bubble hockey outside a sports store.

By now it was getting dark, so we hit Dotonburi which is pretty magical at night. Took the obligatory picture of the iconic Glico man sign, waved to tourists taking boat cruises and scoped out the area for a suitable restaurant. Decided upon a delightful Teppanyaki spot – all you can eat, 40 yen – all you can drink, 12 yen. Place was great. Our lovely server giggled as she scrolled through the menus, “all Ok” she exclaimed. Upon selecting a couple of beers, we immediately heard the clinking of pint glasses which then instantly appeared at our table. Although we didn’t go America on the menu, we did eat quite a bit.

After paying the bill I chatted with the server, who seemed to be the only person working. I was pleasantly shocked when she gave me a plastic bag containing two road beers! This would get you arrested where I’m from.

On the train back to Kyoto a visibly drunk boss-man gets on, his plastic take-away bag revealing packs of gummies, chips and two Asahi tall boys. He perches the entire contents on the flat windowsill, a remarkable Japanese idea designed to comfortably hold anything from road beers to elbows. My local GO train has these sloped good-for-nothing windowsills. Boss-man’s first beer foams over when opened, spilling over his tailored suit and his seat. He cares not a whit. Chug a lug then off for a worryingly long bathroom break. Shoes off now, his feet up on the opposite seat, Boss-man slowly sinks into his chair as he digs into his cache of snacks, sighing as he contemplates the life choices he has made which brought him here. Or not-this guy does not seem to give a shit. By the time we get off at Kyoto station, Boss-man has shed more items of clothing and is fully asleep. I don’t like his odds of getting off at the correct stop.

Back to hotel for the night. Distance walked 26.7 km.

Day 4 – Monkeys and Temples

Before getting on the train to Arashiyama Bamboo forest, we explored Kyoto train station some more. It is a spectacular, modern, pigeon/racoon free open air train station. A huge flight of stairs at one end allows you to climb up for a great view of the whole station. There is a catwalk type viewing platform, but it was closed so we didn’t go on it.

More warning signs about the local fauna; this time Black Kites – a terrifying bird of prey which will go for your food, and wasps – which go for the face.

Took the Train to Arashiyama and then a quick walk to the fabled bamboo forest. I was kind of disappointed really. Busy and touristy. We quickly moved on to the Togetsu-kyo bridge. Very scenic view of the Katsura river. There’s some sort of construction project on the river bed which has made the river seem less impressive than it usually is, I’m sure.

On the other side of the bridge is the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama, which sits atop the mountain reached by a long switchback path. Signs of cute cartoon monkeys greet us as we pay the admission. Along the way we pass a father and his adorable toddler. She is climbing the path on her own. For contrast, we also pass a huffing and puffing Brit. “Bloody steep innit?” he complains as we go by.

Nearing the top, the warning signs become more realistic looking and alarming. Do not look the monkeys in the eye, do not get too close, do not crouch etc. One warning tells us the difference between a frightened monkey and an angry monkey (upper teeth bared = scared, no upper teeth = face ripping).

A pre-recorded voice coming from ground speakers gives us the four rules for staying alive in monkey park.

They are unintelligible.

I mentally prepare to get mauled.

Once at the top the place is crawling with monkeys and it’s actually super awesome. Apparently, the troop is about 150. We didn’t feed them but if you do, you go inside wire mesh lined hut and pass the food through the gaps.

Outside a handler chucks bits of food to the monkeys. The toddler loses her mind and goes straight for huggy time with one of the monkeys, but dad is johnny on the spot and stops any carnage before it begins. I noticed the handler also spotted the danger and was ready to move in if need be.

Met some nice Americans, one of whom lived full time in Osaka. They told us an amusing anecdote about an American teen eating on the subway as a disgusted local sarcastically asked them if it tasted good which brings us to Japan rule #5611, don’t eat on the subway.

Next stop, the Silver temple, Higashiyama Jisho-ji. Instead of taking the train we took the cross-town bus. This was our first, but not last, local bus experience. The mic’d up bus driver drawled a deep baritone “Arigatou gozaimasu” as passengers disembarked, drawing out the last S sound. We messed up and forgot to get off at the last stop, so the driver comically told us, “Exit bus now! Please!” As we left, I was shocked to see that instead of James Earl Jones the bus driver is a skinny young dude.

We travelled towards the Silver temple along the philosophers walk, a lovely tree lined canal. Temple itself is highlighted by cool zen gardens and intricate sand mounds. Once done we headed back the way we came and stopped off at Cheese steak cafe – laughed when the server told us she went to hs in Halifax. Entire staff spoke perfect English.

We passed another temple and went in on a whim. Zenrinji Mikagedo. It’s pretty cool and has some nice original paper wall artwork. Next up was Nanzen-ji Suirokaku, a 19th century, working aqueduct. It was so cool we climbed up and followed it along to a massive waterworks/power station. Back home there’s no way we could have done that, it would have been blocked off.

At the end of the aqueduct we came across this curious, long, huge gauge railway. Turns out it’s called the Keage Incline and was used to transport sake and soy between canals. Love what random exploring can take you to. We reached the bottom, checked google maps and found we were close to the zoo. Our plan was to eat ramen in Gion, so this was perfect.

Walked into Gion and ate at Musoshin- these guys have a Toronto location with a Michelin Bib Gourmand – ramen was great, not spectacular.

I don’t think we had fully recovered from the previous days so went home early to sleep. Distance walked 26.8 km.

Day 5 – Tokyo

Sad leaving the hotel. What a nice place, amazing shower. Both of us had king beds in our rooms.

On a whim while walking to Kyoto station, we decided to check out another big temple complex, Nishi Hongan-ji, almost a twin of the one we saw the 2nd day, Higashi Hongan-ji. I know it’s not possible to see all the temples and shrines, but I really think you should see as many as you can as they rarely disappoint.

Once back in Tokyo we walked from Tokyo stn to our hotel. The maze-like vortex of Tokyo station will often spit you out at random locations – we once spent 20 confusing minutes trying to find a specific exit only to emerge from the same place we entered!

Google maps showed a 15 min walk to Hotel Sardonix. We walked because, as you can probably tell by now, we are completely nuts. Hotel was great, not quite the boutique Blossom, but pretty darn good. It’s located on Yeasu st, minutes from Tokyo station with a Hatchobori subway/JR entrance literally a crosswalk away. Also at your fingertips – Lawson, Family Mart and 7-11 stores! (Although I suspect there is one of those 3 stores within minutes of anywhere in Tokyo itself).

Dropped off bags then subway to Harajuku. I’m about to get my first real ‘crazy busy’ taste of most populous city in the world. Aptly named Takeshita was a complete zoo of people, however things got better a few blocks away. We went on a Sunday, which is supposed to be THE day to go, but I didn’t quite see the eccentric sartorial displays I was led to expect. We wanted katsu for lunch but found our first spot to be packed with a line up. Our 2nd choice, a gyu-katsu joint, was better and we managed to get a seat fairly quickly.

We often found that restaurants we’d picked in advance were full so we started marking down multiple spots in the same area – this method served us quite well for the rest of the trip and fit in with our “seat of the pants travelling” ethos. At any rate the food was again fantastic.

One souvenir I wanted was a NPB (Japanese baseball league) cap so I’d marked down a few sports stores in the Shinjuku neighbourhood. All of them so far were glorified foot lockers with mainly NY Yankee hats.

One lesson we were learning is that although google maps takes one to the right horizontal location, it does not do vertical well. Tokyo is full of multi-story buildings and not everything is on the ground floor, so looking up is usually required to find things.

We continued through Sinjuku to Shibuya, home of the famed eponymous crossing. We checked out the Shibuya Don Quixote which is a chain discount dept store. Walls of cheap crap are serenaded by a Don Quixote theme song of sorts, blasting at full volume. It is as horrible as you can imagine. Seizures seem imminent as flashing lights accost you at every turn. We breathed a sigh of relief as we left the overstimulation of both the store and the area itself.

In another attempt at finding a baseball cap, we left Shibuya proper and found ourselves at Subota Slugger, a branded baseball store. Inside a clerk was furiously pounding a new glove, working it in under the watchful eye another employee. Even though this was a Subota brand only baseball glove store, I bought a t shirt anyway. The cap would have to wait.

Outside the store was the Japan National Stadium. We wandered around the perimeter and took photos of the Olympic medal winner plaques. Next to the stadium is Meiji-Jingu stadium, home of the Yakult Swallows of the Nippon Baseball League. Apparently, Babe Ruth and Lou Gehrig played here. There are also multiple tennis courts, a rugby pitch and a golf driving range. This area became known to us as athlete’s park, and I would move here in a heartbeat. Beautiful Gingko lined Jingu Gaien Ave led us to the subway and back to Tokyo station. Being gassed from another busy day we decided to eat sushi inside the station rather than hunt down another spot.

A short walk home to collapse, the Don Quixote song never far from my mind. Distance walked 23.7 km.

Day 6 – TeamLabs

Up early again, this time to see Team Labs Planets in the waterfront area. We had purchased tix in advance. I don’t want to spoil it, but Team Labs is well worth the price and line up. You will get wet up to your knees, and they provide lockers for your shoes and loaner shorts if needed (A few rooms have mirrored floors). Afterwards we went back to the hotel for a quick reset and then off to Akihabara. We initially went the wrong way and found an eerie, almost abandoned covered mall. Lost, we tried to backtrack but eventually had to resort to google maps to find Akihabara proper. Once there we stopped by a fried chicken food truck, whose nice owner gave us free chicken nuggets after our meals. Nearby another vendor recorded tik-toks of themselves preparing and serving food.

Akihabara’s main drag is an assault on the senses. Maid cafes, their employees out on the sidewalk politely hawking their offerings, sit next to figurine stores stuffed with vending machines. This is not my jam so apologies if I don’t do the area justice. It is, however, a lot of other westerners’ jam as we see the same faces repeatedly.

I like video games though, so we hit up Super Potato for a bit of retro gaming. I have a mishap at a vending machine and mistakenly buy a Wilkinson drink, which is basically tonic water. My feet are aching at this point, so we go back to Ginza for tonkatsu. While eating, a pair of westerners are outside looking at the menu.

I give them the thumbs up. They come in, we help them order and strike up a conversation. Turns our they are father and son chocolatiers from Belgium. They’ve been selling chocolate in Japan for years and are here for Valentine’s day to sign autographs. When pointing out how odd that is, they reply, “Only in Japan” Tonkatsu kicks ass btw.

Short walk home to bed, a measly 21.1 km covered.

Day 7 – Nikko

Into the heart of Darkness. Day trip to Nikko.

After a quick breakfast at Royal host, we caught the shinkansen to Utsonomiya and transferred to a local train to Nikko. It was the coldest day of the trip by far.

We pass by Shinkyo bridge on the way to Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple, which is unfortunately under construction. Undaunted we continue, catching a bus up to Akechidaira Ropeway before arriving at Kegon Falls. The ropeway gives you a half decent view of the falls and surrounding area. Once at the falls there’s an observation deck where you can get a really good view of them. Being winter they’re covered in ice which is not a view you’ll always get.

Another bus up to Ryuzu falls, where we had planned to eat at a cafe overlooking the falls. The cafe is a bit disappointing, so we continue up a trail following the Yu river towards the Senjogahara Observation Deck.

We had arrived late in Nikko, so the initial plan was to turn back at the marsh instead of hiking the entire trail. However, once we reached the marsh trail, we agree to throw caution to the wind and power through the whole thing all the way to Yudakai Falls.

In hindsight this may not have been the best decision.

It was around 430 when we hit the halfway mark, the trail sign indicating another 3km or so. Knowing that dusk starts at 5:10 our mental calculations had us picking up the pace a little.

The trail was a raised, snow-covered walkway – the snow itself the grippy packing snow type. It was strangely comforting as we grew up playing in similar conditions, despite knowing that getting caught out here in the dark would be dangerous. The wide-open marshes, ringed by spectacular mountain peaks, gave way to a denser, more foreboding forest.

4:45. The trail descended further into the forest as I for the first time became slightly concerned.

5:10. As dusk begins to fall, we reach the falls – even more spectacular in person. Concern turns into determination as we see that the way to the top (and the bus stop taking us home) is up a narrow snow and ice-covered switchback path. The steps are suggestions as the snow has been packed down to form an ice ramp. A fall here would be disastrous. Halfway up we’re gassed and must stop to catch our breath. Above, the path now disappears into darkness.

5:20. The last part of the path has about 6 feet of snow atop the asphalt, but there are footprints to follow. I’m instantly up to my waist in snow and the way down is nothing but blackness.

5:25. Finally reach the top! But there is a problem as we’re in the middle of nowhere – there is no bus stop. At the far end of ice covered Yuno lake we spy two lamps. Google maps tells us to head that way for the town. It’s now pretty cold as we walk alongside the road towards the light.

5:40. It’s pitch black and snowing. The area reeks of sulphur. Determination gives way to panic. Along the way we discuss worst case scenarios like finding a hotel and staying the night. Finally reaching the lights we see a bus stop indicating the last two buses back to Nikko station – the next one in a few minutes at 6:03.

The source of the lights is a lonely dark ski lodge. The Shining is brought to mind. Inside I ring the bell a few times before an elderly man pops out from behind sulphurous shadows to confirm that the bus will indeed take us back to town.

6:03. No bus. Orange side lights flickering through the trees hint at an approaching vehicle. Thankfully it’s our saviour, the Nikko bus. Unlike the subway, this local bus is more expensive, and our Suica cards have a meagre 300 yen on them. We figure we can pay by cash and are fully resigned to not getting any change back. Not surprisingly, this is not the case as wonderful, efficient Japan gives change back on buses.

We take the train back to Utsonomiya, shinkansen back to Tokyo and are drinking beer and eating omurice by 9:30, our harrowing adventure a distant memory. Distance walked 20.1 km.

Day 8 Tokyo cycling

Today was to be a busy day. Morning saw us at the old fish market where I had one of those square omelettes. Subway to the Metro towers and it’s free observation deck.

On the way we stopped to watch a futsal match in the park outside of the metro towers. We heckled #3 who was out of shape and #4 who couldn’t score if his life depended on it.

Finally found baseball cap heaven, Selection Shinjuku. Purchased a Swallows cap, vintage Lions cap and a Hiroshima Kikuchi #33 home red jersey. Lunched at hidden katsu spot for an amazing lunch.

Afterwards we rested at the hotel before going off to Tokyo Great Cycling Tour for you guessed it, an evening bike tour. Our amazing guide Masa took us throughout the bay district and residential areas. Saw the new Toyosu fish market. This was one of my favourite activities of the trip.

Evening was reserved for night-time Shinjuku and Golden Gai. When mentioning this to Masa he raised his eyebrows and asked if we really wanted to go there. This was prophetic as it was my least favourite activity of the trip. We ate bad ramen and got relentlessly hassled by foreign touts promising beer and girls.

Tight, crowded alleyways; tiny bars filled to the brim with tourists; this was Golden Gai.

It was the only time I was taken away from the Japan I was loving so far – it could have been any tourist trap anywhere in the world. Thankfully we left, went to Ginza near the hotel for an expensive glass of wine and called it a night. Distance walked 24.1 km.

Day 9 – Baseball and Kayaking

Took the subway to Meiji Jingu park, which was a welcome change from the chaos of the night before. Subway to Tokyo dome and the Japanese baseball hall of fame. It wasn’t open til 1 so we hit the batting cages next door.

An hour of BP later and we’re off to the hall of fame. It’s amazing but they need a gift shop. I would have dropped hundreds if there was one. Gave a bow to the goat Sadaharu Oh’s Hof plaque.

After the Hof we had great Okinawan style soba at a random shop. Back to the hotel to change for the next adventure, evening kayaking around Tokyo bay. Same company as the bikes, this time we were joined by the owner, the lovely Yukiko.

A large group of Arizonians joined our tour, so we had quite the flotilla going. We attracted attention from the pedestrians on the bridges as kids waved to us from above. An hour or so later we finished up without anyone going for a swim. We probably spent another hour chatting with Masa and Yukiko as they were great hosts.

Evening was in Roppongi. After wandering around we ate at Brewdog pub and had local craft beers at the Ant and Bee. Great little place!

Staggered back to the hotel around 11pm. Distance walked 15.9 km.

Day 10

Travel day. 6:30pm flight to Toronto. Spent the morning buying souvenirs in Akihabara before taking the Narita express to the airport. As our JR pass had expired, we had to pay 3000 yen for this one. Not as expensive as the 25 pound Heathrow train, but more expensive than the $9 Pearson express back home.

True to form, boarding at Narita is flawless; the usual chaotic surge to the front of the boarding line is quickly stopped by the ticket agents who arrange everyone by seating zone. Flight is uneventful as we travel back in time to arrive at Pearson at 4:30pm. I, nor my body, have any idea what time it is or how long I’ve been awake, so I simply go to bed at my usual time and hope for the best.