Trip Report, Jan 31st – Feb 11 (Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Osaka)

This was my first time solo travelling, my first to going to Japan, and my first time experiencing winter. I come from a tropical country at the equator and do not deal well with the cold. A lot of firsts and it was very daunting. I read a dozen trip reports and it made me no less uneasy. Here was my adventure, or misadventure.

My goal for this trip was fashion, anime and nature. I speak very basic and broken Japanese learnt from a decade of seasonal anime watching and Duolingo. I can read Hiragana and Katakana, and some Kanji.

**Pre-departure / Notes**

\- Visit Japan Web made arrival a breeze

\- Brought ¥20000 in cash (Withdrew the rest through 7-11 ATMs with revolut. No Fees.)

\- Ubigi e-sem. 10GB plan (Only used 4GB in 2 weeks. Used it mainly for google maps)

\- Shinkansen EX app (Bought my Shinkansen tickets to Kyoto)

\- Suica charged with ¥5000 initially. Ended up charging an additional ¥9000 at the end of 2 weeks.

\- Majority of my payments were via card. I had 4 travel debit cards, all worked.

\- I gave up trying to speak English since many I spoke to did not even possess a basic level of English. Those who knew would switch without prompt.

\- I averaged 20km a day on foot. I walk fast and can walk a lot.

\- Shinjuku station was a complex labyrinth, especially for a first timer. I recommend not to stay in Shinjuku if is your first time here because travelling with luggage while getting lost in this maze is a pain.

**Day 1: Arrival at Narita Airport. Meiji Jingu, Ikebokuro, Nakano Broadway.**

My plane landed at Narita Airport early in the morning at 6:30am to a chilly -2°C. I knew -2°C was cold (I mean it’s below freezing temperature!) but I did not know how cold. Cold was a 22°C rainy day back in my country. I could not internalize this level of cold and prepared for war with 3 layers of clothing. My excitment for landed in Japan quickly died as I stepped out of the plane. A frigid torrent assailed my body and I immediately started to shiver nonstop as I walked through the bridge. It was COLD.

It was a lot warmer once I stepped deeper into the airpot. The arrival procedure was a breeze thanks to Japan Web and I made my way out in 10 minutes. There weren’t many people at the airport at this time. Arrivals was basically empty. I was finally here, in Japan. It felt surreal to finally be here after 3 years owing to COVID cancelling my initial trip.

I made my way to Terminal 1’s train station and saw a family mart. I was somewhat anxious when queuing because I had no clue what the cashier were saying to each customer. Thankfully, another foreigner was before me in the line and had a lot of trouble communicating with the cashier. Seems like the level of English here in Japan was a lot lower than I initially thought. The man paid with card which I mimicked. My first konbini food was onigiri with a small carton of milk.

I purchased my Suica and the NEX round trip ticket since my hotel was located in Shinjuku. They were done on separate ticket machines. The view along Narita was very sceneic and I relished the mountainous terrain as I bit down on my onigiri.

When I stepped into Shinjuku station, everything went downhill. I was lost. I was confused. The myriad of signs did not help me get through this labyrinth. Make no mistake. The metro system back at home was advanced and my main mode of transportation, but Shinjuku station was on a whole new level. There were a plethora of exits and platforms laid out in a haphazard manner. I spent an hour walking in and out, and around the station before I finally found my way to the Odakyu line. In that one hour, I was dying of cold and finally put on my scarf and gloves.

I visited Meiji Jingu and the path there was very calm and peaceful. The shrine was very beautiful. At this point, I was still positive and the novelty of being in Japan was still there.

I was back and Shinjuku station to collect my luggage I left in a coin locker. There was a problem, I did not know where the locker was. I knew it was at the South gate but I did not know how to get there. i spent another hour going in and out of the station before finally arriving at my locker. Having to stop and look at signs in this busy hub with torrential human traffic was an awful experience. Not wanting to make the same mistake, I decided to traverse above ground, another mistake.

Trudging along with my backpack, duffel and luggage in the hyperborean weather, I could not find my way to Shinjuku sanchome. The roads were undulating and it was very difficult to move with my luggage. At this point I was ready to break down. I was cold. I was lost. I had no one to rely on. Was solo travelling in a new country whose language I could barely speak a mistake?

I pushed on and finally found the entrance to the station. Another problem. There was no lift, no escalator, just stairs. I found another entrance, the same. I contemplated for a bit before saying screw it and I carried my 20kg luggage and 10kg duffel down 5 flights of stairs.

When I finally checked in, it was already 4pm. After that ordeal, I was in no mood to travel. I sulked for an hour on the bed before pushing myself to get out.

I heard Ikebokuro and Nakano Broadway was an alternate place to view anime good but I was very unimpressed with the selection. Limited, niche and boring. The area was nothing novel and felt very similar to places back home. It was a very meh area. I had dry soba at a random local place which had good reviews and I hated it. My mood could have contributed to this negative experience.

The only good thing that happened on Day 1 was buying both of Suisei’s albums at Animate. Even then, for such a large building, there was barely anything inside.

**Day 2: Ueno, Akihabara**

Sensoji and Nakimase shopping street was crowded at 10am but still enjoyable. I had the sugar glazed strawberry for the first time and loved it. Had lunch at Ichiran which I could not find because it was located underground. I found it interesting that Ichiran had tags with instructions for customers who did not wish to speak at all.

Left for Akihabara in the afternoon. Animate, Mandarake, Amiami, Suruga-ya, Don Quijote, Volks, Radio center, Gamers, Radio Kaikan, lashinbang, I went to all the prominent Anime stores. Spy x Family, Demon Slayer, Jujutsu Kaisen and The Quints were everywhere. I was more interested in Chainsaw Man and Hololive but could barely find any of their merchandise. Being someone practical, the merchanise at these stores did not appeal to me. Badges, tapestry, posters, files, cards. They were all collectables. I was hoping for more clothing or cups, anything I could use day to day. Collectables are a really big thing here in Japan, evident from the myriad of Gachapons that line the streets.

**Day 3: Shinjuku and Shibuya**

Visited the Your Name stairs in the morning and saw a foreign couple roleplaying there. I chuckled and watched their performance on the stairs before interrupting to take a photo of the view. There were a handful of people there at 10am.

Made my way to Shinjuku Gyoen and everything was dead. Trees withered, grass brown. A barren land. I loved it. I have never seen this in my life. I am so used to seeing verdent scenery, seeing this withered garden in the cold was something new. There was a greenhouse as well and stepping in, I was greeted with a familiar warmth and humidity. My phone immediately fogged and I quickly left this place that felt too much like home.

I walked around the Shinjuku streets and visited Golden Gai at lunch time. Yes, I know, why did I do that? I am not a foodie nor drinker and just wanted to check the place out. Had another unenjoyable lunch at another ramen place. It’s day 2 and I was really struggling with the food here. Not sure if it was the weather or I just hated the way things were made here. Flavours were too strong and rich. I had no issue with ramen back at home so why was I struggling here?

I walked pass a Midori no Madoguchi and bought a ticket for the Sunrise Izumo from Osaka to Tokyo. The guy at the counter spoke no English and I had to use my shitty Japanese and deepL to get the ticket.

Spent the evening at Shibuya and it was a big mess. Haphazard layout and the streets were a chaos. The main crossing was so full at all four sides. It was cool to see in videos but it was not cool to walk in.

I walked into 109Shibuya and was the only guy in this giant shopping complex. I love fashion and wanted to check out even the female pieces, but I felt as if I was tresspassing and quickly left. I visited the Disney store and was the only guy there as well. Seemed like the female population was relatively higher here.

Speaking of fashion, I absolutely loved the winter fashion here. The long coats and boots worn here were stunning. Some even opted for the short skirt with long boot combo which also seemed to be very trendy. I don’t know how they handle the cold though! I was wrapped in layers of clothing, exposing only my head.

**Day 4: Tsujiki, Odaiba, Ginza**

I left early in the morning to Tsukiji not for fish, but coffee. Yes, don’t ask why. Tsukiji Peppers Cafe was the place and the owner spoke English. He was very friendly and helped with my order. Coffee was so-so but the toast and pizza was great.

I wanted to walk to Teamlabs from there but realized my mistake halfway through. Took the bus and it was PACKED. I had to shove myself inside at the entrance. Teamlabs was a 15 minute wait in the cold outside before we were let in. The experience there was surreal. Highly recommend the place, even for a solo traveller like myself.

Walked to Toyosu Market and had a ¥4000 tuna sashimi platter. It was the first meal I really enjoyed here in Japan. Granted, I have always been a big fan of sashimi. It was also the first time I when through the entire ordering, eating and paying process in Japanese. I was very unconfident and whispered a soft gochisousamadeshita. Still, the chefs replied heartily and it was also a signal for the bill.

Visited the giant Gundam and man was it big. Spent the rest of the day at Ginza which I enjoyed a lot more than Shibuya. A lot more orderly and easier to navigate, a lot more peaceful. Snagged a raincoat there for cheap which turned out to be a clutch buy for the days to come.

At this point, I was a lot more familiar with the metro and visited Tokyo Station. The anime street there was very skippable. The station was also a lot less confusing that Shinjuku. Apparently, I ended up at the most complex one for my first time here. How unlucky.

**Day 5: Harajuku**

At this point, I was tired of Tokyo. In a city bursting with social activity, travelling solo was just no that fun. My solitude turned into lonliness and I found it difficult to enjoy myself. Also, coming from a city, Tokyo was just not that interesting. The only thing I really loved was the fashion I see on the streets.

Made my way to Cafe Reissue which made any Latte art, 2D or 3D, you requested. I went with a 3D pikachu which I later regretted because I should have asked for an art of Suisei! ¥1300 for cappucino is absurd, but the art made it worth it.

Walked along the chilly streets before having lunch at Tonkatsu Maisen. Had no problem with the Japanese menu but had the waiter explain to me how to eat the dish in English.

I was burnt out and returned to my hotel for the rest of the day.

**Day 6: Hakone**

This was the part of the trip I was looking forward to. Moving away from the concrete monoliths into the awe-inspiring mountains was a welcoming change which reignited my excitment.

Purchased and activated the Hakone 2 day pass, stored my luggage at Sagawa, and took the romancecar to Hakone at 730am. Having familiarized myself with the metro, my journey to Shinjuku station only took 15 mins compared to my 1 hour on day 1. Made good use of the underground tunnels as well, away from the cold.

Started the Hakone tour in a clockwise direction from Hakone Shrine. Lake Ashi was astounding. I stood in awe as a relished the massive lake surrounded by tall mountains. Unfortunately, the submerged Torii Gate at Hakone Shrine was closed and I could not get a picture at that famous spot. The walk along Cedar Avenue towards the port was less enchanting than expected owing to the dozens of cars zooming past right by the path. Still, the Cedar Trees were very impressive.

I arrived at lunch time and had to wait an hour for the ship ride to Togendai station. It was so cold and bought hot milk tea from a nearby vending machine to warm my hands. Thank got for Japan and her warm vending machine drinks. The machine even accepted my card.

I decided to sit atop the ship to enjoy the view but it was frigid and everyone else was standing around me. It became a painfully cold ride after 10 minutes of sitting above.

The view at Owakudani was once again, amazing. I finished all 5 black eggs myself because they only sold it in a pack of 5. Struggles of a solo travelling. I attempted to have some finger food outside but it was so cold I had to retreat back into the station.

Returned to Hakone-Yumoto station at 4pm and made my way to Hakone Onsen Guesthouse Tsutaya. I took the bus and missed my stop by 2. Walked a meandering mountainous path back and checked in at around 5pm. It was getting very dark and I am glad I managed to make my way here before it was complete darkness.

This my first time trying an onsen and I was very excited. I stay in a capsule room and it was very cozy. Throughout my entire 1 night stay, I did not bump into anyone else inside. I purchased konbini food from a nearby 7-11 and enjoyed my night at the lounge. Everything there was retro and it was very tranquil. They had a small manga corner and I was this close to picking up the last Attack on Titan volume to see what the fuss was about over the ending.

They also had 2 kotatsu and boy was it the best thing ever. Slotting my legs in, I was envoloped in warmth. It felt amazing, especially so because of winter. I did not want to leave.

Next, was the onsen. I cleaned up and stepping into the indoor onsen, I was surprised by how hot it actually was. I slowly dipped myself into this pool of boiling water and at first, it felt very prickly. Soon, I became innured to the scorching waters and it felt amazing. The ordeal at Tokyo, the horrible cold, getting lost in Hakone. Everything was lost and forgotten. I was at ease. I spent about 10 minutes inside before heading to the outdoor bath. I was so warm, I could withstand the winter cold buck naked. 10/10 experience.

Sleeping in the wooden capsule was very comfortable and I barely had troubles with noises from the other travellers.

**Day 7: Kyoto**

Spent the morning at the onsen AGAIN. Sorry, I love it so much. Took the Shinkansen to Kyoto with the ticket I bought from the app. I scanned the QR and collected my seating information at the automated gate. I did not see Mount Fuji at Hakone, but managed to witness the behemoth on the Shinkansen. To have it in view for so long at the speeds I was travelling at, truly amazing.

Checked in at the Pocket Hotel and walked around the neighbourhood. I had time so I decided to head to Omi Jingu which I knew from Chihayafuru. It was not in a tourist area and I had to head to a local station, walk through a small neighbourhood, through a deserted park, and was finally greeted with the view of the Omi Jingu. There was no one there aside from 5 locals. I basically had the place to myself. It was equally impressive and I took many great shots free of people. It is places like these I enjoy. The more local areas free of tourists. Seeing something animate in real life was also great. Thank you Chihayafuru for introducing to me this gem.

Spent my night at Nishiki Market which was packed. I wounded up checking out Animate and Lashinbang and enjoyed it more than Akihabara despite the more limited stock as there were a lot less people, meaning I could enjoy my time there rather than make way for people constantly. Also, it was one big floor. I did not have to climb 7 stories.

**Day 8: East Kyoto**

Fushimi Inari hike was a lot more difficult that I imagined thanks to the cold air. Still, I had to remove 1 layer because I was getting too warm from thsi workout. The base was crowded but the higher I went, the more sparse it became. The shrine atop was very unimpressive and there was no good view. Went I went back to the midpoint, I saw on the map the city view spot. When I followed the stairs up, there was only a giant shrine. I knew something was up and decided to walk through the shrine and at the back, there it was. Everyone else was not adventurous enough so there was absolutely no one here. An amazing of of Kyoto city, all to myself.

Had some street snacks at the base before heading to Kiyomizu-dera. Wounded up at the wrong temple but it was free of tourists and there were people praying inside the rooms. Equally amazing place and there was no one here!! I love these spots for locals.

Took the correct path this time and it was awfully crowded. Crowds, crowds and crowds. All the way Gion. At Kiyomizu-dera, I felt like most were interested in the view rather than what was inside the temple. Crowds made it difficult to enjoy the area.

At mcdonalds at night because I was tired of Japanese food and managed to go through the entire process in Japanese. At this point, I was fairly comfortable with the language.

**Day 9: West and North Kyoto**

Spent the morning at Arashiyama. One of the best views by far. Thanks to the rain (raincoat coming in handy here!), here was no one and I had the area to myself. It was awfully crowded at Togetsu-kyo bridge and was also freezing cold thanks to the rain. Had a ¥4000 tofu set lunch at Yufodu Sagano and loved it. It was a bit too much to finish the meal by myself but I powered through. It was also sunny by then and I decided to head to my next, more local location: The Kurama to Kibuneguchi hike. Only 3 people, including me, alighted at this terminal station. This was a mistake.

What was supposed to be a easy 4km hike turned into a horrible hike down slippery slopes thanks to the rain. It was so cold, more so than any other area because it was so high up. Snow was still present. In hindsight, it was very dangerous because I was alone. There was no one around, it was freezing cold, it was slipperly, I had no cellular connection. The path to the Kurama-dera was fine thanks to the pavements. The view atop was astounding. Making my way down however was painful. It started to pour and the trail lined with smooth stone was very slippery. The path was meandering and undulating. A painful 1.5 hours down. I saw two other guys hiking down and stuck close as I did not want to be alone in this dangerous environement.

Stupid me. Instead of taking the bus, I continued the remaining 2km on foot in the cold. I wanted to finish this hike but should’ve just stopped then and there at the base. I was complaining on the phone to my friends all the way to Kibuneguchi station.

Was is a novel experience? Yes. Was the hike in the freezing cold worth it for the scenery? Maybe not…

**Day 10: Osaka**

Spent 1 day exploring Osaka. Checked out the Anime street and purchased a Makima figure at a small store. Gee Store was by far my favourite store because it was filled with clothing.

Checked out Amerikamura at night but the streets were basically dead and shady af. Quickly left for the more busy streets.

Most stores closed at 8pm and I had no where to go till my Sunrise train at 1230am. I walked around the nearby mall at Osaka station till 10pm and by it was COLD. I walked around Osaka station 5 times trying to find somewhere to seat before tapping into the station and sitting at the bench at the toilets for the reminaing 2 hours.

The Sunrise train ride while cool and cozy, was impossible to sleep in. I was in a solo compartment and had fleeting sleep. Awoke at 5am but there was no sunrise to see in the winter.

**Day 11: Snowy Tokyo**

Unfortunately for me, I was lucky enough to catch the snow in Tokyo. I had small talk with the Japanese Taxi driver and he told me this was not normal. I haven’t experienced snow in more than a decade and now that I have again, I hated it. My trip to Akihabara lasted 2 hours before I called it a day and spent my day in my hotel. I was supposed to head to Enoshima Island but called it off owing ot the snow. The first smart decision I made. First Cabin had an indoor onsen as well and I took the opportuinity to enjoy myself inside on a snowy day.

**Day 12: Goodbye and closing thoughts**

Packed up and used my NEX round trip ticket for my journey back to Narita Airport. Stepping into the same family mart on day 1, I could handle the cashier in Japanese no problem. Seeing other foreigners struggling here reminded me of my first day. I have come a long way.

This was my first time solo travelling. And it will be my last time. Travelling is just not as fun alone for me, espeically in Tokyo. I could enjoy nature in Hakone and Kyoto myself. By Osaka, I learned to grapple with solitude but would much prefer to be with someone.

I enjoyed the local spots a lot more than the tourist spots. They were equally impressive and I did not have to deal with crowds, even people at times. I will definitely come back to Japan, but with friends. Hoping to explore less touristy areas in the future! Please let me know if you guys have any suggestions for me! I want to see more nature and scenery.