Six Days in Kyushu itinerary!

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1. Massive reply incoming. Apologies in advance. I spent three and a half weeks driving around Kyushu in Oct. 2021, so this is based on my experiences there:

   I think you really need to temper your expectations with regard to how much you can stop and see along the way and how long driving will take. There’s a lot packed in here. I understand you don’t have much time and, therefore, don’t have much ability to be “loose” with your plans. However, I would suggest picking one or two “must see” things and then, if you can do anything else, great! But be prepared to not do a lot on this list. You need to factor in time to stop for bathroom breaks and gas along the way when driving, too. All of my driving estimates are based on using the IC, which you should do to even try to accomplish a fraction of this.

   > Arrive from Seoul at Fukuoka airport at 1:20pm. Planning to check-in to hotel before exploring city like the Ramen Stadium, Kirby cafe (if we can get a booking) and Kushida Shrine.

   Don’t mess around with these silly “ramen stadium” food court tourist traps. Google in Japanese and read some blogs about ramen in Fukuoka, look on Google Maps or Tabelog, etc. There are a LOT of amazing ramen places in Fukuoka. Pick one that interests you and go there. There’s a reason Japanese people don’t usually go these cattle call-type food places; they’re low quality.

   Don’t waste your time in Fukuoka with a silly theme cafe. Again, Fukuoka has AMAZING food. Go to an izakaya and have some Hakata style torikawa, or something. (Personally, it’s my favorite and the only kawa I’ll eat.) Again, look around for Japanese recommendations of places to go. The Tenjin area has a lot of bars and izakaya. You can izakaya hop, too; eat a little bit at one place, then head to another. There’s no law saying you need to have your entire meal at a single place lol.

   The yatai are nothing to write home about. The food was so-so and overpriced; I had better food at izakaya and restaurants in the city. Also, I got food poisoning there — only the second time in my seven years living in Japan. I don’t know what it’s like when tourists are allowed in, but there was a bit of cageyness until the proprietors realized I spoke Japanese. Your milage may vary. But again, I suggest going to actual restaurants.

   > Leave Fukuoka and go check out Sakurai Futamigaura’s Couple Stones, Karatsu Castle before heading south via Imari and the Saga prefecture for pottery. Then we will keep driving south to Nagasaki, hopefully get there just before sunset, check-in and go up Mt Inasa.

   Waaaaaaaay too much. Skip the castle; it’s a reconstruction from the 60s, so it’s not even worth wasting your limited time seeing. Unless you have specific shops you’re going for pottery, this sounds like a lot of aimless wandering. Why not stop in Takeo Onsen instead? It’s more of a straight shot to Nagasaki from there anyway. Inasa-yama is only accessible by bus — so unless you’re pulling your car out from the hotel parking (which can cost extra money), be aware it’s not near most of the hotels and will take some time to get to. You’re already cutting it close.

   > Option 2: Go south! Leave Fukuoka and go visit Nanzoin Temple and and Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. Then we keep heading south to grab lunch and check out Yanagawa. From there drive to Nagasaki and follow afternoon/evening plan for Option 1.

   First, this is the better and more feasible option if you cut Yanagawa. Dazaifu is cute and appealing to tourists. Again, you’re underestimating how long it will take to get places (Fukuoka to Dazaifu takes a while with traffic around Fukuoka, which there WILL be) and how long you’ll spend places. (I think I spent like four hours in Dazaifu and I had to cut Yanagawa to get to Kumamoto city on time — which is a lot closer than Nagasaki.) You will NOT have time to see Nanzoin AND Dazaifu AND make it to Nagasaki to check in ~3pm and get to Inasa-yama before sunset (~5:30-6?) unless you leave Fukuoka at like 7-8am and spend no longer than one hour at Nanzoin and two hours at Dazaifu. Morning traffic out of Fukuoka means getting to Nanzoin will take about 40-60 mins; Nanzoin to Dazaifu will take about 40 mins. If you leave Dazaifu no later than 1pm, you’ll get to Nagasaki either at or just before 3pm.

   > Morning activities include visiting Nagasaki Peace Park (we have been to Hiroshima in a previous trip), Chinatown and Dejima before heading leaving the city and drive towards Mt Unzen and check out the national park. Would love to fit in a hike there. From Mt Unzen we will drive to Shimabara and jump on a barge to Kumamoto.

   Kinda don’t like the assumption that, if you’ve been to Hiroshima, there’s no need to see the Nagasaki museum. You’ve seen one place of human suffering, you’ve seen them all? A bit callous, don’t you think? The Nagasaki museum is much different and a unique experience in its own way. The park is small, with the museum being the main centerpiece. Chinatown is a lot of nothing (mainly just restaurants at night, most of middling quality) and Dejima is a completely fake reconstruction — like an Edo Disneyland. The best things in Nagasaki are the atomic bomb museum and the old houses in Minami-Yamate. (And going to old castella kissaten.)

   But if your entire plan is to hike Mt. Unzen, you don’t have time for anything in Nagasaki. You’d need to leave early in the morning to even accomplish a small hike. You’d be better off staying near the mountain if this is your main draw.

   > We hope to get to Kumamoto in the afternoon

   Ain’t happening, even if you skip the Nagasaki daytime stuff. You’ll be lucky to get to Kumamoto by 5pm. Will you even be able to make the barge? Check the time tables.

   > Check out Kumamoto castle then leave for Aso township. Plan is to visit the Aso area and visit places such as Shiiba village, Takachiho gorge (I am aware the landslides, will also have lunch there), Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine and Mt Aso crater no.1 (if opens). We will then retire for the night at a ryokan in Aso.

   Aso and Takachiho are not remotely in the same area. They’re not even in the same prefecture. Getting to Aso from Kumamoto can take anywhere from an hour to two hours depending on traffic. You’re underestimating how large Kyushu is and how long it’ll take you to get around this area — lots of two-lane roads with low speed limits. Without Takachiho and Kumamoto castle, your day is feasible — but remember you need to be at your ryokan before dinner, which is usually 5-6pm. You’ll want to be ready to check in by 3-4pm to really enjoy yourselves and the ryokan.

   > From Aso we will go up to Daikanbo Lookout, Minamooguni and Kurokawa Onsen. Then from there we will check out Yufuin before heading to Beppu for another ryokan there.

   Again, too much. What’s more important: Hitting every place to say you’ve been, even if it means spending 30 mins there? Or actually enjoying yourself? Pick one: Kurokawa or Yufuin. You have time for one after the Lookout and before going into Beppu (if you are going to a ryokan ryokan, again, you’ll want to be there before dinner time).

   > Check out Beppu (Seven Hells etc) before heading back to Fukuoka to return car by 2pm. Plan is to drive along the Expressway for a quicker return trip. Depending on time and whether we went with Options 1 or 2, will go check out Sakurai Futamigaura’s Couple Stones or Nanzoin Temple and Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. Once we return the car we will catch the Shinkansen to Osaka for our next part of our trip!

   What a shame. Beppu is amazing. The best part about it is going to all the different onsen; most are open-air and all have their own special properties/vibes. There’s also an amazing early Showa era bathhouse in the middle of the city that remains one of the coolest places I’ve been in Japan (but I like old buildings). I spent two full days in Beppu, never even went to the Hells (tacky/touristy) and could have stayed another day. Great food there, too. It’s the birthplace of toriten.

   There’s also some lovely places to stop going back to Fukuoka, like Hita (and the mountains above it) — and you aren’t even going to Kitakyushu! The Toto Museum is actually amazing (and free).

   But then again, you’re completely ignoring the two best places in Kyushu: Kagoshima and southern and northern Miyazaki. Absolute shame.

   > Am I being too ambitious?

   Yes. My suggestion? Fukuoka, Aso and Yufuin/Beppu. Nix Nagasaki. You do not have time for it and it seems the mountain is more why you’re going. You could then also go to Takachiho Gorge overnight or for a day if you structure this better. There’s really not much in Kumamoto city; more of the charm is in the rural areas.

   As such, this is probably a better plan: Fukuoka overnight > Dazaifu day trip then overnight at Mt. Unzen > drive to Takachiho with overnight at Aso > Aso to Beppu overnight > Beppu to Yufuin day trip before driving back to Fukuoka

   > I understand that the Kyushu Expressway Pass is currently not on sale, are there any other good alternatives?

   No. Just get an ETC card from the rental place. That’s your only option. Don’t use cash. Just get the ETC. (Also, tolls are costly, but it won’t cost “heaps of money.” In my time driving around the entirety of Kyushu, exiting and entering the highway a lot, I think I spent around ￥25,000 in tolls. Put about 2000km on the rental car.)

   My overall suggestion: Spend 7-10 days and see all of Kyushu instead.