Just back from our honeymoon mid Feb to Japan and wanted to share our experience and recommendations. Don’t mind the syntax…this was written 3am whilst jetlagged.
\*2 travelers early 30s, second time for me, first time for wife.
\*\*contrary to many redditors I did not exchange physical Yen ahead of time. Ordered a Wise debit card and had been converting Yen into account prior to trip as exchange rate fluctuated. Spot exchange was same if not better when we went so outside of a few 7-11 atm withdrawals with my Wise card, we swiped with our CC with no issues. Only places we needed to use cash were street vendors in and about Japan, and a select few cash only restaurants.
\*\*\*added Suica to Apple wallet, and loaded with my Wise Mastercard. I know some travelers had issues adding funds with visa etc-no issues with MC. Super convenient and topped up whenever we needed.
\*\*\*\*ordered Skyliner Express from Narita Airport to Tokyo, RomanceCar tix from Tokyo to Hakone, and Shinkansen from Hakone to Kyoto all online ahead of time or via mobile App.
\*\*\*\*\*I also bought the unlimited 3 day and subsequently another 2 day Tokyo metro pass from Klook. Highly recommend as breakeven per day is less than 4 metro swipe (each metro ride \~200yen). To pick up physical pass just need to swipe the QR code from purchase into a ticket kiosk that accepts qR (most do).
\*\*\*\*\*\*google maps still efficient in transportation and train routes
\*\*\*\*\*\*\*basement floors of any department store are a food lover’s paradise. Unlimited selections of bento/ebiken, and Japanese sweets/confectioneries. These made for great gifts.
Food Highlights: Sushi Shin, Chukasoba Biriken, Pizza Studio Tamaki, Akihabara Kenya Musashi Bujin, Mai-sen Tonkatsu, Misaki Standing Sushi.
Day 1: Land Narita, Skyliner to Tokyo and metro to our Airbnb near Shinjuku. Picked up konbini for dinner and exchanged some Yen at 7-11.
Day 2: activated our 3 day unlimited metro (a few metro lines are not covered under the unlimited Tokyo metro; tapped Suica for those), and headed to Tsukiji Outer Market. Quieter than my first experience but still “lively” around 8am. Wife had her first of 14 bowls of noodles here. We had a few other misc street foods before walking towards Ginza. Explored Isetan then meandered over to Udon Shin. Good but not worth the 1.5 hour wait (when we finished the wait was >4 hours). I recommend having a few “must hits” but we found impromptu google “best \_\_\_ near me” most suitable. No need to wait 1-2 hours for hype spots imo. After, we explored Shimokitazawa (hip neighborhood with coffee spots and vintage clothing, stickers) before our dinner rsvp at Sushi Shin in Asagawa. 18 courses and a great experience-lucked out bc we had great camaraderie with the Chef Shin and the other 4 patrons (6 seater).
Day 3: Early breakfast at a syokudo place called Shinpachi Shokudo in Shinjuku. Traditional set course containing a fish, miso soup, pickles, and seaweed salad. Senso-Ji, Nakamise Street, Suzuzien Matcha (renovations in their original location so new one is around the corner). “Proclaimed strongest matcha ice-cream, highly rec. Stumbled into this local duck ramen at Homemade Noodle Billiken in Asakusa-hands down best ramen of our trip. Light flavorful broth and perfectly cooked duck breasts. The unlimited vinegar was the perfect pairing to offset the oils from the duck. From there we walked to Shibuya (Mega Don Quijote), before heading back to airbnb for some r&r before dinner. 830 dinner at Hakkoku. Experience > flavor. I mean, 29 courses with 25 of them being nigiri…bound to be a few meh novel fish types. Highlights include-tossaki chu-toro hand roll, monkfish liver, warm roe, fugu (no distinct flavor but at least we can say we tried), and the honeymoon tamago they made for us. Ended meal at 11:30pm.
Day 4: no set plans so lined up for Ichiran (same flavor as NYC but 25% of the price), explored a few malls i.e basement foods, Tokyo Station, Sembikiya, Kinokuniya etc. Went to Takano fruit parlor for their whole honeydew dessert+ mango parfait. Are Japanese fruits expensive? Yes…but I’d rather pay for them than the “Oishi strawberries we have at Whole Foods for $20”. Dinner in Roppongi at Pizza Studio Tamaki. Japanese Neapolitan pizzas that give the NY pies a run for their money. Walked around Kabukicho in the evening; we enjoyed seeing all the host clubs and egged each other into going into one. Didn’t happen; instead, I heard the sound of batting cages and pulled the wife in. We both loved it. Highly recommend as a 1hr break as these aren’t too common in the States. Hitting bombs against 90km fastballs.
Day 5/6: Food and local neighborhood exploring day; Shrimp tsukemen at Gonokami, Mai-Sen tonkatsu, standing sushi and soba inside Shinjuku station. Dropped off our 2 large suitcases with Yamato Ta-Q-Bin at the info center inside the station as we didn’t want to lug them around to overnight trips to Hakone and Kyoto later. Seamless process \~$20 usd for a medium side roller. We discovered Public Tokyo and United Tokyo this day and boy…did we spend. Minimalistic, contemporary made in Japan clothing. 100% recommend.
Day 7: RomanceCar to Hakone. I booked the first car for the views and an opportunity to spy on the train conductor. Picked up sashimi bento at Shinjuku station malls before hopping on board. Great views of Mt. Fuji along the way. Spent a few hours walking near the Hakone Yamato Station and slurping soba before taking the bus to our private onsen at Senkyoro. Would recommend in a heartbeat. The private onsen was lovely as well as the dinner and breakfast kaiseki. The ryokan gifted us a framed portrait, courtesy of our host. Great way to be unplugged and relax after 10+ miles of daily walking.
Day 8: Bullet train to Kyoto. We enjoyed the quieter streets to Higashiyama (Sanneizaka/Nineizaka) as those streets were inundated with foreign tourists, something we didn’t really see in Tokyo fortunately! Wagyu roast beef bowls for lunch and some pottery shopping. Gion Duck noodles for dinner-be warned, coming for dinner may require waiting in a dark, claustrophobic alley. Small intimate restaurant with a more avant gaude approach to duck ramen compared to previous spot in Tokyo.
Day 9: Obligatory Fushimi Inari visit; maybe better without the tourists. All in all Kyoto not our favorite city, but we didn’t spend enough time to give a proper review. Trained to Osaka for our final Japan leg. Checked in early to W Osaka before exploring the city and its malls. Dotonburi in the evening.
Day 10: More food and shopping. Great izakaya spot inside the Parco mall. $3 grilled fish collarbones, negi-toro handrolls, hotate nigiri = heaven.
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Curious to hear more about the Skyliner. How did you pick your train time- just estimating based on customs etc? I actually hadn’t heard of it but sounds like a better option than the 2hr train.