Trip Report: 12 days Solo in Tokyo (Kawaguchiko, Hakone) → Kyoto (Ine) → Osaka (Hiroshima)

I (24f) spent 12 days solo travelling to Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka with a few day trips in late February.

Some things to note:

* I exchanged ¥60000 worth of cash which was just enough for my 12 days in Japan. I highly recommend exchanging some cash as there were quite a handful of places that only accepted cash.
* I used Ubigi eSim for my data and got the 10GB for $17 deal. Also, use the promo code ESIMDB10 to get 10% off
* I got the 7 days Japan Rail Pass and exchanged the order when I landed at Narita airport but only activated it on my 6th day when I was heading to Kyoto. During my stay in Tokyo, I used my Suica card for trains. It was really worth it to get the JR rail pass for my case as using the [online calculator](https://www.japan-guide.com/railpass/), the total amount for all the trips I took since day 6 amounted to around ¥52,000-54,000 but I only spent ¥29,650 on the rail pass.
* Bring a handkerchief and some plastic bags along with you as their toilets usually do not provide paper towels/ hand dryers and also it is quite hard to find rubbish bins so it’s easier to store them in a plastic bag first.
* TRIPOD!!! This was so essential for me as a female solo traveller as I definitely wanted to capture nice pictures of myself while in Japan. I don’t think anyone really cared when I pulled out my tripod and there were others that did the same as well! If not, I would just ask a kind stranger to help me take a picture.
* I was quite a last-minute planner with some of the days even being planned the night before but I still had a great time and managed to accomplish most of the things I wanted to do. Also, this was my 4th time going to Japan hence you’ll realise that I skipped some famous places.

Itinerary:

**23/2 Thurs: Arrived in Tokyo**

* Shibuya crossing
* Went to Shibuya Sky but was fully booked (did not make a prior booking)
* Miyashuta Park

*Tips*:

* Book Shibuya Sky at least a few days in advance if you want to go during the golden hour (sunset) as it tends to be the most popular time to go

**24/2 Fri: Sightseeing and shopping**

* Shinjuku Gyoen Park in the morning – Was lucky and saw cherry blossoms!
* “Your name” red stairs (Suga shrine)
* Went to Harajuku but most things were closed hence did not shop much – decided to go back again another day

**25/2 Sat: Day trip to Lake Kawaguchiko**

* Took a bus from Shinjuku station to Kawaguchiko station
* Rented a bike (24 hours even though I only rented until 4 pm)
* Cycled to the famous street at Shimoyoshida Honcho Street but at this time it was cloudy and Mt Fuji could not be seen 🙁
* Cycled to Lake Kawaguchiko (entrance of the ropeway)
* Took to ropeway up and at this time it started almost hailing and it got super cloudy and snowy
* Managed to take a (cloudy) shot from the top of the ropeway before everything was foggy and nothing could be seen
* Nothing much to do at the top except throw plates to a shrine to try to hit a rock behind the shrine for good luck (i did it!)
* Went back down and at this time it was raining/snowing super heavily. Decided to cycle back in the harsh rain to the bike rental place to return the bike (this was around 4pm+)
* Decided to book a bus back to Shinjuku (online) since it was snowing and super cloudy and I had no mood/ there was nothing else to do 🙁

*Tips*:

* Highly recommend checking the weather forecast for a sunny and clear day before going to Kawaguchiko to get the best views of Mount Fuji and enjoy cycling around the lake
* You can also take a train to Kawaguchiko but be sure to reserve your seats in advance. Due to my last-minute planning, I was unable to reserve a train seat and hence took the [bus](https://highway-buses.jp/course/kawaguchiko.php?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgaGgBhC8ARIsAAAyLfGZaomZHopnjmpXjegYht3PSX2bFcc6Zy7xd8huw3p15fuaFobSvWsaArAFEALw_wcB).

**26/2 Sun: Day trip to Hakone**

Was super unsatisfied with the day trip yesterday and did not manage to see Mt Fuji and wanted redemption so I decided very very last minute to do a day trip to Hakone to see Mt Fuji again.

I think I fell sick from the previous day (got a cold and mild fever and also maybe because I ate a whole bag of chips the previous night) hence I woke up late around 11 am.

* Took the 12 pm train to Hakone-Yamoto (super bad planning even the guy at the information kiosk was shocked I was going at 12 and coming back to Tokyo on the same day).
* Bought the Hakone free pass on the spot and did the [Hakone circuit](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5210.html) but in reverse.
* Manage to do everything in the circuit (visit the Shrine, take the boat, (rope way was partially closed), (did not manage to eat the black egg as it was sold out), and cable car back to Sounzan where I managed to see the volcanic smoke and a beautiful view of Mt Fuji!
* Was super lucky to take the cable car because since I arrive in Hakone so late and took the reverse circuit (meaning the cable car was done last), I almost did not manage to take the cable car as it stated the last one was at 4:15 pm and I arrived around 4:40 pm but the staff were nice enough to rush me and take the last few cable cars (which were empty yay!)
* Went back to Tokyo and ate Yakiniku near my hotel for dinner

*Tips*:

* Most obvious one is to definitely not start the day as late as I did. I suggest reaching Hakone around 9 am to be able to experience everything and also avoid the crowds
* I decided to do the Hakone circuit in reverse as I read online that you will be able to avoid crowds (for example going to the Shrine first while others start at the ropeway). But I think either way it will still be as crowded (or maybe because I reached the Shrine so late) as when I reached the Shrine there was a long snaking queue to take a picture there and I decided to not queue (probably had to queue \~45 min for a picture at the Shrine)

**27/2 Mon: Museums day (Studio Ghilbi and teamLab Planets)**

Visited the two museums, Studio Ghilbi in the morning and then teamLab Planets in the afternoon). Both were super amazing and I can’t recommend them both enough. As a solo traveller, I would say that it didn’t feel weird going to the museums alone as everyone was just absorbed into the exhibits. The only downside was that no one was there to help me take nice pictures 🙁 Of course, I occasionally asked a random stranger to help me take but I guess the quality won’t be guaranteed haha.

Afterwards, I shopped at Harajuku since I did not manage to visit most shops when I went on Friday.

*Tips*:

* If you intend to visit these 2 popular museums, please make sure to make a booking in advance at their respective websites. I heard afterwards from my friends who were planning to visit Studio Ghibli that it was already fully booked for the coming month.

**28/2 Tues: Tokyo → Kyoto day**

* Stored my luggage at Tokyo station first thing in the morning
* Went back to Akihabara because it was the last thing on my checklist I wanted to do in Tokyo before leaving and this was my last chance to do so
* Shopped around and bought 2 decks of One Piece playing cards
* Was super overwhelmed by everything at Akihabara LOLWent back to Tokyo and collected my luggage
* Took the shinkansen to Kyoto – Saw Mt Fuji on the train ride again (super cuteee!!!)
* Arrived in Kyoto and checked into my hotel near the station
* Went to the station to book my train ticket to Ine (the next day)

*Tips*:

* Sit on the right side of the shinkansen to Kyoto to get the best view of Mount Fuji. Also, note to reserve your seat in advance for this as the right window seats will likely be sold out.

**1/3 Wed: Day trip to Ine Fishing Village**

Started off my day super early to head to Amanohashidate.

Explored Ine Fishing Village with my free rental bike and it was super beautiful and underrated. I really highly recommend visiting this place if you have the time. There were hardly any tourists and the tourists that were there were mostly locals.

You can also rent a bike for free at the Ine Tourist Center when you arrive and just cycle around.

*Tips*:

* There aren’t any convenience shops at Ine and also not many restaurants that were open so I recommend bringing some food along in case you get hungry!
* You can check out this [website](https://www.ine-kankou.jp/en) for more information on how to get to Ine, what to do there, seasonal events and also the bus timetable from the station to Ine Fishing Village.
* I only explored Ine Fishing Village but there are also so [many other things to do at Amanohashidate](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3992.html) that I did not get to do (because I realised too late) 🙁

**2/3 Thurs: Explore Kyoto**

Spent the day exploring Kyoto and visited these places:

* Hokan-ji temple
* Gion Tatsumi Bridge
* Kiyomizu-Dera – temple (watch the sunset)
* Higashiyama District (on the way down from the temple)
* Gion district, Hanamikoji street

**3/3 Fri: Kyoto → Osaka day**

Took the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Osaka and took a chill day.

* Went shopping at Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street
* Walk around Dontonburi

Note that these places can get reeeaaallly crowded.

**4/3 Sat: Day trip to Hiroshima/ Miyajima Island**

Decided to take a last-minute day trip to Hiroshima. Started off the day really late so I did not manage to explore Hiroshima and visit the Peace Memorial Park.

Took a ferry to Miyajima Island to visit the see the Itsukushima Shrine (shrine on water). I highly recommend visiting this island as you can also see wild deer roaming about the island (in case you did not get to see them at Nara). Also, you are able to touch the Shrine if the water is on low tide (around early afternoon) and the tide starts to rise around late afternoon.

**5/3 Sun: Thrifting/ Shopping at America-mura/ Shinsaibashi**

Took another chill day and decided to spend the whole day shopping and thrifting at America-mura in Osaka. There were so many thrift shops around this area that they all started looking the same after a while LOL. But if you are into vintage finds I recommend visiting this area.

**6/3 Mon: Osaka → Tokyo day**

* Made my way back to Tokyo in the morning and stored my luggage at Tokyo station.
* Decided to do some last-minute shopping/ thrifting at Shimokitazawa.
* Evening flight back home sweet home!

Now for the most important part… **FOOD RECOMMENDATIONS!**

Tokyo:

1. 讃岐本広うどん (Udon)
2. Gyukatsu Motomura Harajuku (Gyukatsu that you grill on a hotplate)
3. Nikonan (Soba and tempura near Lake Kawaguchiko)
4. Jiromaru Yakiniku (Standing Yakiniku bar)

Kyoto:

1. 貝だし麺きた田 (Ramen)
2. 挽肉と米 (Meat patties that they grill in front of you and serve on top of hot charcoal)

Osaka:

1. Akari Soba (Soba)
2. 柳橋こだに (Unagi restaurant at Hiroshima)
3. 鶏soba座銀にぼし店 (Soba/ Ramen restaurant)
4. Abura-soba Kirinji Amemura (Abura Soba)

If you have any questions or want me to explain any part further in detail, I would be glad to do so in the comments! I hope you enjoyed reading my trip report I definitely had one of the best times of my life travelling solo in Japan the past 2 weeks 🙂

3 comments
  1. Thanks for the tip on the esim ! I was at amanohashidate on 2/27 but didn’t have time to go to ine fishing village. However the fish market in front of amanohashidate station was amazing that sells mackerel sushi and crab bentos. Hope you had a chance to try that vendor out.

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