8 days Solo Trip Report (Dec 2022) Nagoya -> Gifu -> Osaka -> Kyoto -> Osaka


**Background / Pre-flight**

– I am a solo traveller from Hong Kong, 4th time in Japan, but 1st time travelling to Japan alone.

– Did the usual VJW declarations, blah blah blah.

– Booked hotels in Osaka & Nagoya (as I am only taking day trips to other prefectures), the HARUKA package and my Shinkansen tickets in advance.

– I can speak Japanese without too much problem, so I didn’t have to use Google Translate or anything like that.

– This is a food-heavy trip, so expect mostly food and less of other activities. I will link the restaurants I’ve visited if possible throughout the report.

**Day 1: Nagoya**

– My flight was actually for KIX (because it’s cheaper). My plan was to take HARUKA from KIX to Shin-Osaka and then hop on the Shinkansen to Nagoya.

– Got off the flight and waited quite a while for my luggage even though I was one of the earliest to get off the plane. Finally got my luggage and went to the counter to pick up my ICOCA card and HARUKA tickets. No hiccups there.

– Boarded HARUKA and got to Shin-Osaka. Decided to buy a eki-ben at Shin-Osaka station to eat on the Shinkansen.

– Tried to use the QR ticket you’d get from booking your tickets through SMART-EX, didn’t work. Okay that’s fine, I thought, I will just go to the ticket counter to print out my physical tickets.

– Got my tickets and realized I had no fucking idea which tickets to insert into the ticket gates? (no idea how to translate 改札) because the machine gave me like 4 tickets. I knew the tickets were for “Station Entry”, “Train Entry”, “Designated Seat”, and “Receipt”, I just didn’t know which one I should put into the gate. The train was going to arrive in like 7 minutes at this point.

– Thankfully, I got help from the station staff and managed to get through the gate. Here’s the second problem, I had no idea which platform the train was going to arrive at. If you know Shin-Osaka station, you know it’s got a lot of platforms even for the Shinkansen area.

– I went to a platform that I thought was correct and waited for 2 minutes before realizing the time on the display didn’t match with my tickets. I was fucking shitting myself at this point because I had 3 minutes left before the train arrived.

– I went back to the “large” display near the ticket gates and checked which platform matched the time on my ticket. Through some strokes of luck or whatever, I managed to find the right platform and ran to it in time.

– Here’s the third problem, you need to find the correct section of the train for your “designated seat”, so there was more running to do. After I got on the train, I realized (again) I didn’t have enough strength to lift my suitcase to place it on the racks above the seats, so I had to ask another passenger for help.

– I finally got to settle down and enjoy my eki-ben. It was [this one](https://tabelog.com/imgview/original?id=r74799199907557), which essentially is a collection of “regional” Kansai and “traditional” Japanese items. Tasted fine even if it was room temp.

– Got to Nagoya without any further difficulties and checked into my hotel (yes, one of those APA chain hotels). Went to get some Hitsumabushi (Unagi eel rice dish???) at [Shirakawa](https://hitsumabushi.jp/). It was piping hot and fresh but I felt like it was a little bland for my taste.

– It was like 9pm after my meal, I was too tired to do anything else, so back to the hotel and rest it is.

**Day 2: Nagoya**

– Got up and went to the Takashimaya in Nagoya station to do some errands for my friends. Afterwards, I went and got some Krispy Kreme for breakfast. There’s a very good reason for this. In Hong Kong, the last Krispy Kreme closed down around 15 years ago, and there just aren’t many good choices for dounts in Hong Kong, hence the Krispy Kreme for breakfast. Got one of the original glazed and one of the Boston Kreme. Definitely lived up to my expectations though, very very good, probably the best donuts I’ve had in my entire life. Bought a nice key chain as well.

– Walked around Nagoya station for a bit before I went to a Komeda for a “Morning” (no idea how to translate this, something of a Nagoya specialty where you order a drink during breakfast hours and they give you a breakfast set). I got the Yuzu marmalade with a piece of toast, and a cup of coffee. I wanted to get a “Shironowa-ru” (im so sorry but i have no idea how to translate this again) as well but they were sold out. Note that you have to write down your name in a namelist in front of the shop instead of physically queueing up, and a staff will call out your name once it’s your turn, so write a name that the staff can pronounce easily.

– Did some more walking around the station, just taking the city in, before going to a [yakitori restaurant](https://goo.gl/maps/r8iB7CCok36yFFZH9) to have some yakitoris. Ordered a lot of chicken parts (meatballs, cartilage, etc…) and got to see them grill it in front of me, t’was a good experience. Held off on the tori-sashi (raw chicken sashimi) because I didn’t want to risk it.

– Finished lunch and hopped on a bus (just a normal bus) to tour around the city, got to see many different parts, as well as the suburbs, and experience how much of an industrial city Nagoya really is.

– Went back to the hotel to take a dump before going out for dinner at [Misen](https://www.misen.ne.jp/) (no, not that cookware company sponsor from Youtube), which is a “Taiwanese” (not really Taiwanese food, but rather a Japanese-Chinese fusion, I’ve heard it was opened by a Taiwanese family or something) restaurant. Went there and turns out they weren’t open yet, so I had to stand and wait for quite a while as there were no places to sit nearby. Got their very famous garlic fried rice, “Taiwan Ramen” (like a chili pepper meat mixture on top of ramen), as well as other wok-fried dishes. You can often see Japanese vloggers going to this restaurant if they go to Nagoya. I have to say the shop is very, very smoky due to poor ventilation, but the food was great, albeit pretty damn spicy.

– Finished dinner and went back to the hotel, I walked like 20000 steps so I was again, too tired to go do more sightseeing. (told you this was a food-heavy trip)

**Day 3: Gifu & Nagoya**

– Got up and took a local train to Gifu in the morning. Gifu is right next to Nagoya (like 30 mins by train), and people usually go there for Onsen and mountains. I was there just because I wanted to go to more prefectures. Went to a [shop selling fruit sandwiches](http://richburger.net/sands/) for breakfast. Usually they make fruit sandwiches with white bread, but here they made it with a mixed dough (swirls of coffee-tasting dough and normal white bread). Afterwards, I went to Kinshinji (金神寺) to pray and just get a feel of what visiting a shrine is like. Almost died when a large branch fell right next to me when I was leaving the shrine.

– Went for a stroll in the shopping street and went inside another Takashimaya (yes it’s boring i know sorry) to have a look of what they had to sell. This Takashimaya was much less crowded than the one in Nagoya because Gifu is more of a rural prefecture. They had a standard selection of goods (books, apparel, stuff for New Years & Christmas, etc…) available. Nothing too special really, but to be honest I was just walking around to ease digestion so I can eat more.

– For lunch, I went to [Kamata](https://tabelog.com/gifu/A2101/A210101/21017644/), which is a Japanese-style “Western” restaurant. I ordered their Napolitan Spaghetti on a Skillet, as well as a pudding. Very cozy and Showa-feeling cafe, and the food tastes great as well. I think it’s worth visiting if you’re in Gifu. Picked up a Pistachio-filled cannoli for desert at a place called [Cannolo&Kitchen](https://goo.gl/maps/phHQTHEHt552ocqD7). Suddenly felt like taking a dump so I cut the day trip short and went back to my hotel in Nagoya to do my business, it was not food poisoning I can assure you, just ate a little too much.

– After leaving the hotel once again, I went to an Animate (and Melonbooks as well if my memory serves me right, both of them are “anime” goods/books stores) near Nagoya Station to just see what they had to sell. Didn’t buy anything and went to have dinner at my [next location](https://tabelog.com/aichi/A2301/A230103/23059787/). To be frank, I would not recommend this place as you have to order through Japanese LINE, which meant I had to set up an account just for ordering. They served Hokkaido specialties. The food itself was just okay, if not overpriced. I didn’t leave feeling satisfied yet so I went to Yoshinoya to have some Gyudon. End of Day 3.

**Day 4: Nagoya & Osaka**

– Got up and checked out of the hotel. Wasn’t too hungry so I skipped breakfast and headed straight for my lunch location called [Ramen Dai](https://tabelog.com/aichi/A2301/A230102/23036662/). This shop only serves Jiro-kei ramen, which is a type of ramen that’s often described as junk food due to how fatty it is. It’s basically a giant bowl of Tonkotsu-Shouyu ramen with a mountain of cabbage, char siu, and bean sprouts on top, with a healthy scoop of lard and a crap ton of garlic as well. I mean, it can’t really taste bad, but it does make you smell like garlic for the rest of the day.

– Went back to Nagoya station to hop on a Shinkansen to Osaka. Went much better this time around now that I know what to do and which platform to find. Took the subway to check into my second hotel, and then headed for Nanba to experience a maid cafe.

– The maid cafe I chose was called [CcoCha](https://ccocha.com/), which seems to be the oldest maid cafe in Nanba(?). The shop was REALLY difficult to find because Google Map tricks you into thinking it’s a shop right by the street, but actually, it’s hidden inside an alleyway. Anyways, they were still doing the whole social distancing thing inside, so the seats were all separated like you’re in a classroom. Ordered a omurice and it tasted surprisingly good given the setting. There seemed to be a birthday event that day for one of the staffs (from what the maid told me), so there might be time limits on how long you can sit there for. Also took a photo (cheki) with the maid that was serving me as part of the set. Overall, I thought it was quite an unique experience, and I would visit it again just for the atmosphere even if I wasn’t someone who particularly enjoys being served by maids. Not their fault of course, just personal preferences.

– Left and walked around Nanba some more, before entering some shops that I would get banned for on this sub if I discussed the details further. Spent around an hour or two inside them due to their sheer size. Then, I took the subway once again to go to Tennouji, where I had Cow Tongue at [this shop](https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270203/27077791/). Service was great and the food was delicious as well, really liked how smoky the cow tongue was. I think the zunda mochi in Sendai would taste better though. Picked up some niku-mans (meat buns) at one of the Horai 551 locations before going back to the hotel. The niku-mans are again, the best meat buns I’ve tasted, even better than the ones in Hong Kong.

**Day 5: Osaka**

– Got up and went to Jusou district for a meeting that, again, I would be banned for on this sub if I discussed the details further. Before going to the meeting, I stopped by a small cafe called [Cafe Yutte](https://goo.gl/maps/XHkuLq6HUAQWgz6EA) in the middle of a residential district as there was still some time remaining. It was all apartments and houses for miles without any restaurants, but here was a small cafe run by a resident who lives near by. Had a really, really great time chatting with the owner (if you’re reading this, hi Muta-san), would say this was the most unexpected yet fulfilling encounter during this trip.

– After leaving the cafe, I suddenly got an email saying they had to cancel due to “health reasons”. Too bad, so I went and had lunch at a [Udon restaurant](https://goo.gl/maps/vcusvgF3y5jJiaSPA). Got their curry udon lunch set, and I have to say it really warmed my body through given how cold Japan is (relative to Hong Kong). The sudden cancellation really threw off my schedule so I decided to stop by [another place](https://goo.gl/maps/yC7UUhrehhx3oHc97) selling “Akashiyaki” (明石焼き) ran by a old man as I had nothing better to do at that moment. He’s really passionate about his shop, the Jusou district, as well as the food itself.

– I still wanted to do something, so I killed some time at a MacDonald’s before taking the subway to Kujo station. Look, I would be banned if I told you about the rest of what happened, so I will do a time skip here. I am not even going to tell you to Google what usually happens at that station because I don’t know how strict the mods are with these topics.

– Anyways, I went back to the station near my hotel and was in the mood for some Oden, so I stopped by an [izakaya](https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270106/27098627/). I was the only customer at that time, so I just enjoyed my food and chatted with the chef. I ordered some horse sashimi, oden, as well as a shop specialty that I forgot the name of. It’s like sauteed pork belly with a sweet soy sauce glaze. I also ordered a Oolong tea, but I think he misheard me and gave me a glass of beer instead. I think it’s a genuine accident, so I’ll just take what I’m given. Had a blast chatting with the chef about the shop, his story, and how the catering industry in Japan was doing since 2020. Went back to the hotel afterwards.

**Day 6: Kyoto**

– Got up and took a train to Kyoto. Stopped by a Burger King for breakfast because we don’t really have Burger Kings in Hong Kong. The food was okay I guess. I just strolled around Kyoto and popped into temples/shrines as I walked by them. I think it’s a pretty fun way to explore Kyoto. Before lunch, I stopped by a Wendy’s and had their chili, as well as a burger, it tastes better than Burger King but it’s not very remarkable. Sorry to all of the NA readers out there, but these chains are not available in Hong Kong, so please understand why I am visiting so many fast food chains. I also had some mulled wine at a shop whose name I’ve forgotten and can’t seem to find. It’s a nice experience drinking mulled wine in winter.

– For lunch, I went to a shopping street and had Sukiyaki at [Kimura](https://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2601/A260201/26000648/), which seems to be a very famous Sukiyaki joint. It’s a pretty fun experience cooking Sukiyaki by yourself instead of being served by a waiter/waitress as it would normally be. The food depends on your cooking skills, so I can’t say whether it tastes good or not. I think I overcooked the beef a bit, but having fun is more important.

– After lunch, I just visited more temples and such, and picked up some Wagashi for a late-night snack (sorry I genuinely don’t know what the name of the shop was). I’m going to skip all the temple details as you’ve probably seen it a trillion times on this sub already. After leaving Kyoto, I picked up dinner and went back to the hotel early as I walked >25000 steps this day.

**Day 7: Osaka**

– Got up and went to Nanba again to hit up the arcades and the anime goods shops (Animate, etc…). Had breakfast at a Soba restaurant at the junction under the bridge in Nanba (if you’ve been to Nanba, you’ll know which one it is). After leaving the shops, I went to have Motsu-nabe (Kyushu specialty, intestines hot pot) at a [Kyushu restaurant](https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270202/27099677/) in Doutonburi. A lot of tourists in that area as expected, but the restaurant I visited had no tourists at all, but only had Japanese customers. The food and the service was really good. Definitely worth a visit if you’re in Osaka and want to try some Kyushu food.

– Went back to Nanba for a second round of arcades and had some [Japanese-Chinese fusion food](https://tabelog.com/osaka/A2701/A270202/27002580/) at the mall under the bridge in Nanba for my second lunch. Walked around the Nanba area some more to visit more shops before going back to the area around my hotel for dinner at an Izakaya (I forgot the name, sorry). Called it a night because I had to catch a early flight the next day. Not going to write the details of going to the airport, I’m sure you all know what it’s like.

**End**

Thanks for reading! Please let me know in the comments if there’s anything that piqued your interest or you would like to hear more about.

2 comments
  1. Great trip report! Reading your report is a good reminder that there’s a balance between having restaurant reservations and just going out to finding food on your own. Looks like you struck a good balance and most of the food options worked out!!

    Also, super impressed that you presumably speak Cantonese, Japanese, and English all with good proficiency.

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