We’re heading to mainland from Okinawa for the Christmas holiday to ski. We are intermediate skiers and will take a few days of lessons, the rest self-guided. Right now, we have accommodations booked for both Shiga Kogen (Nagano) and Niseko (Hokkaido). However, in our debate of where to go, we have a few questions:
1) snow. I know Hokkaido has more snowpack by then, but is Shiga going to be BAD, or just not as good? Is it enough of a difference to be the deciding factor?
2) intermediate-level skiing. Is one heads over shoulders above the other?
3) vibe. We aren’t partygoers, but do like a good beer and possibly some conversation at the end of the day. I’ve heard Shiga Kogen has no nightlife, but is there any opportunity for a drink? Our accommodation includes dinner, but might want to go out a few times. We know rudimentary Japanese and are fine using google translate/figuring it out.
4) Day Trips. We’re familiar with Japanese culture and while we want to see what’s unique (e.g. snow monkeys), we don’t need the typical “tourist” experiences, but during our two planned rest days, does one have more than the other? Will we need a car for either, or train fine?
5) onsens. We have tattoos. Permitted? Is either location more generally acceptable?
Appreciate your help!
10 comments
Shiga Kogen is higher elevation than Hakuba or other places in Nagano, which makes it colder and less likely to get rained on. So at least you have that.
I worked in Shiga Kogen for about 2 weeks two winters ago. There are s few bars in town, but after like 5 or 6pm there no more shuttle buses so you just have to walk and make sure not to slip and hurt yourself after drinking.
Yea no, no “night life” per se. You can still hit the hotel sento / onsen.
There are plenty of intermediate slopes in SK. There’s night skiing as well.
I haven’t been to Niseko yet.
1) All depends on snow, Niseko is further north so the snow keeps better for longer, and Shiga isn’t particularly known for tons of deep pow. Shiga resorts are high enough for snow not to be as wet and heavy as some of the other Honshu resorts. This year is a cold autumn so fingers crossed both will be cold and snowy this winter everywhere! If weather patterns do what they usually do, I’ve heard that Shiga doesn’t get as much snow as Nozawa or Niigata area resorts closer to the sea.
2) Shiga offers like 16 resorts and Niskeo 4, Niseko is also more “famous” so more expensive/crowded and definitely 97% international visitors in a normal year – it might be that Shiga has much more terrain options at more reasonable pricing, less crowds and easier access from your accomodation. Who knows what the crowds will be like this year though? It might be the year to get Niseko all to yourself 🙂 🙂
3) Disclaimer, I have spent winters in Niseko but not in Shiga. Shiga looks a lot more like a bunch of hotels at the base of a bunch of ski hills, japanese hotels that run the lifts and hotels and not really any independent businesses around.
There are no pensions that I could see, nobody really living up there, no central village, more like a greater national park region with a dozen ski hills in it. Whereas Niseko’s villages have a real village vibe, with lots of independent businesses and restaurants up and down the main village streets. However Niseko’s prices are expensive and it is definitely a western/international place, no Japanese needed. You have to dig harder and pay a lot in Niseko for authentic Japanese experiences, or authentic experiences jn general.
4) day trips: Shiga is right next to the snow monkeys, local onsens, “real japanese” cities and towns where life happens with or without tourism. Nagano city is the main access point and has a lot of history, culture, big famous ancient temple, historical sites, etc. Niseko is far from any traditional Japanese culture, it’s hard to get to anything but Niseko. It is cool to see for itself though – not many places like it in Japan!
Access wise both aren’t easy to get in and out of, I would say if you fly to Hokkaido you’ll have very few options for things to do/see around Niseko, niseko/sapporo will be your main base and Otaru is about all there is to go and see. Hokkaido is big with not much train access and big distances between things. Shiga gives you easier access to Nagano, Tokyo, anywhere the shinkansen can take you.
Depends on what you enjoy and want to do on your off days – Hokkaido has its own unique vibe!
I would choose a car in either as both are rural and far from train stations. Look at & ask your hotels about day tour / bus access options each area offers, how easy it is to train in and out, and think about what you want your rest days to look like. If you have 1 cool place to visit and good bus access in & out, no stress to drive.
5) onsens: most big onsens in honshu are strict with tattoos, some small local ones are a bit more forgiving. In Niseko, every onsen is fine with tattoos, some places even have signs explaining they accept tattoos. but onsens (as everything else) are twice the price.
Enjoy!!
Niseko is typically full of Aussies and Americans, so you won’t really get much “culture” there as it’s basically a purpose built ski town. There will be more nightlife and onsens will be more permissive of tattoos (because most are in hotels catering to tourists.)
Shiga, as mentioned, will be a bit more low key comparatively. Onsens will be more traditional but it’s still a tourist area so onsens will likely be ok with some tattoos (they call them “fashion tattoos”) but you’ll want to do some research. Shiga will give you more things to see and explore outside winter sports (snow monkeys, Nagano City, etc.)
Having done a few trips to Japan for snowboarding here is my recommendation-
Find 2-3 ski areas in different parts of the country as they get different storm patterns. Book lodging that you can cancel without penalty up to 3 days before then watch the weather. Nothing is worse than booking a ski trip to get nothing but rain in Honshu when they’re getting dumped on in Hokkaido. This is my method and I’m coming from the states. Since you’re in the country (relatively) domestic flights are cheap to book a few days out. This way you secure lodging in each location, the week of watch the weather, book your flights and cancel your other lodging reservations.
My thoughts
I wait until the last minute to see where it is going to snow the most then confirm my booking.
Otaru is one of my favorite towns in Japan if not the world, I highly recommend it. It is a good base for exploring Southern Hokkaido with shuttle bus and train access to the ski areas.
Nagano and Niigata are predicted to receive more snow this winter than Hokkaido.
Neither place is huge on culture. Niseko has a party vibe and a lot of drunk Australians, Shiga has a more laid back vibe and there might be a place to grab a drink depending on where you stay.
Shiga has more culture/ attractions nearby. Nagano is a cool larger town. Obuse is a cool smaller town close by on the train line.
Shiga is probably easier to get to and there are quite a few Ski Areas within 1-2 hours with bus access.
I think you are fine without a car. On Hokkaido, shuttle buses are more convenient to access the resorts than trains.
It is difficult to say on the tattoos, do your research, read the signs, and the vibe.
Have Fun.
Rusutsu is a great skiing resort, and also has intermediate trails as well. It’s also the highest rated in the country apart from Niseko, I believe.
I’ve been to Niseko, Rsutsu, and Shiga Kogen. In terms of “fun skiing”, I’d say Rsutsu > Shiga > Niseko. Shiga really has a Japanese 80s charm to it….there’s not much to do other than ski, have dinner, sleep, but I had a blast exploring all the terrain and the tons of random lifts going in weird directions. I found Niseko way more $$$ and w/o some of the charm. Rsutsu was just overall awesome…quiet, quirky as hell, fun runs.
Shiga has way more stuff. I vacay’d in Yamanouchi in the onsen village and rode the bus to Shiga this winter. Super fun as Nagano has a lot of old school tourist stuff and the shibu onsen area has stellar food (super tiny quaint village). Terrain is more mellow than Niseko imo…mountain is way bigger area wise but feels less steep. Shiga itself reminds me of a euro style resort…lotta big hotels and ton of restaurants.
Niseko is remote, more difficult to get to, but the night pow is super fun. Bit crowded these days..bars get packed and lotta drunks wandering around at night. Place is extremely touristy. If you’re beacon trained, there’s a ton of accessible slackcountry through the gates.
My favorite area is actually to base out of Asahikawa with a rental car and hit up the boonie resorts on weekdays, but its not as tourist friendly (i speak enough japangrish to get around). You get the hokkaido pow, but with the feel of old school japan (no asshole crowds).
I dont think i’d ever go back to Niseko, not that it was bad or anything. I just hate rude crowds and love the remote life.
I cant comment on Shiha as I’ve not skied there but i do I live and run a business in Hirafu Niseko and I can tell that if you are even thinking about wanting to come here then this is the year to do so. Prices will be much cheaper than ever and there will be very few people here this year. Also the drunk Aussies got priced out of Niseko a few years ago so this isn’t even a thing anymore. On a normal year its much more common to see families traveling from Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand and still some from Australia. Most of the drunk Aussie head to Hakuba now where its cheaper.
Accomodation is new, modern and plenty of deals around. There are bars and great restaurants. And even loads more restaurant choices in Kutchan 10mins done the road.
There is also a strong local contigent of foreigners that live here year around so never to far from a good old chin wag in English. In addition to the 4 resorts that you can access from mt Niseko you also have Moiwa, Rusutsu and Kiroro within a close distance.
In December the snow in Niseko might be OK.
The snow in Shiga Kogen will be likely be absolute shit.
That’s it really. Normally I’d say Shiga Kogen is better than Niseko no contest. Niseko has better facilities but it’s at western resort prices and filled with insane bogans. Nightlife there you are either going to spend $80 on beer and a salad or get into a tussel with the broke bogans.
Shiga night life is as you say, non existent.