Itinerary check: Hokuriku portion of longer trip

As the title suggests, I’m planning on travelling through the Hokuriku region as part of a longer trip to Japan (31st May – 30th June 2023). Prior to Hokuriku I’m going Tokyo –> Kyoto and using the time in Kyoto to do day trips to Osaka and Nara – these portions are already well planned and now I’m planning out the last leg of the trip, returning to Tokyo via the Hokuriku region. My aim is to spend some time admiring the scenery and getting to see a more rural side of Japan, and of course eat lots of good food.

I’m considering getting the JR Hokuriku Arch Pass (which I believe would also cover my day trips around Kyoto) but that’s a question for when I’ve nailed down an itinerary.

Here is my draft itinerary, with more detail for the Hokuriku leg:

1 to 18 June – Tokyo

19 to morning of 24 June – Kyoto and day trips to Osaka and Nara

24 June – Travel to Kanazawa via JR Thunderbird (2h)

* Possibly with a stop at Natadera Temple on the way if I can be bothered – it’s a beautiful temple but would involve getting off at Komatsu and getting a bus transfer, and I’m not sure if all the Thunderbirds stop there. **Has anyone been, is it worth it?**
* If I go straight to Kanazawa, I will check out the Higashi Chaya district and nearby shrines/temples.
* Checking into my accommodation and having dinner, possibly hitting up an izakaya too.

25 June – Day in Kanazawa before transfer to Toyama

* Kenrokuen Garden in the morning before it gets too busy.
* Omicho Market for lunch, checking out the castle park on the way.
* There’s time here for another activity and dinner before an evening transfer to Toyama via the Hokuriku Shinkansen (30min)

26 June – **This is where I need advice, I have two options: either taking the Tateyama Alpine Route, or the Kurobe Gorge railway. Which of these is better, and once I’ve chosen one, which sounds like the best option?**

* The Tateyama Alpine Route is exciting because it goes over the mountains, but I’m worried it will feel like being shuttled from place to place rather than actually experiencing the nature, especially as a day traverse. I could stay overnight in Murobo to break it up a little, otherwise I would stay overnight somewhere between Omachi and Nagano. Possibly Nagano although there doesn’t seem to be much to do there?
* The Kurobe Gorge looks beautiful in the gorge with options to get off and relax in the various onsen along the way. I’m considering staying overnight at Kuranagi Onsen to fully relax after a busy few weeks. But is it really worth spending an entire day, maybe two here?

27 June – Travel back towards Tokyo from wherever I end up after 26 June, whether that’s Murobo, Nagano, Kuranagi Onsen… etc.

* Considering stopping off at Karuizawa to look around though I don’t think it’s worth an overnight stay.

This leaves me with two spare days in Tokyo (28 & 29 June) before I fly out on the morning of the 30th. Given I’m spending ages in Tokyo at the start of my trip, I could probably lose one of those days and spend a little longer in Hokuriku. **Advice on where to slot in this extra day is very welcome (I could also extend my Kyoto stay).**

Thanks so much if you can help!

4 comments
  1. I’d do the Kurobe Gorge. There may still be snow/icy conditions on top of the mountain in late June or it’ll *just* be starting to get green up there. The snow walls will be a lot smaller by late June too as they’ll have melted a lot. If it was later in July, August, or September it’d be better up there to spend the night at Murodo and do some high alpine hiking I think. We did the up and back to the snow walls from Toyama and while it was okay it wasn’t my favorite experience in Japan truthfully. I think I would’ve preferred skipping the snow walls and doing the route in summer. The Tateyama Alpine Route is also not covered by any pass and quite expensive.

    In Toyama, make sure to visit the Glass Museum, it’s worth it and the architecture of the building itself is gorgeous.

    – [5-day Road Trip to Noto Peninsula (Ishikawa) and Toyama Alpine Route](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/o0tn59/road_trip_to_toyama_and_noto_peninsula_ishikawa/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)

    ETA: [This page of the Tateyama website gives some info on what to expect in different months.](https://www.alpen-route.com/en/about/seasonal.html)

  2. Im planning to go there too on autumn and as far as my research goes, I would choose Kurobe Gorge becsuse of the views and the relaxing pace. Im also gonna stay in Takayama for 2 nights and explore that line Takayama-Hida Furukawa-Gero. 🥰

  3. Natadera is most famous for foliage. Unless you are super into the specific history of this temple/sect, after a week in Kyoto/Nara (minus a day in Osaka) you’ll probably be templed out, and you only have a day in Kanazawa anyway so I would just skip it for June.

    If you don’t enjoy ‘watching scenery from buses/trains/cable cars’ as much as getting off and walking around, it’s quite disqualifying for the Alpine Route. Go to Kurobe gorge, book an onsen ryokan at Kuronagi / Unazuki.

  4. Hi!

    I’m just going to throw out there Kenrokuen, doesn’t get overly crowded in late June because it really doesn’t have any good flowers to see, it’s not like visiting during sakura season. Late June is hydrangea season in Japan and Kenrokuen doesn’t really have any hydrangea. We went on June 25 in 2018, and it was not terribly crowded, and I don’t think we went particularly early. There were a few dying azalea, a few mostly gone iris, and one small hydrangea area. My daughter did not enjoy it anywhere near as much Ritsurin in Takamatsu, which we had visited several days prior.

    In Nagano, we went to Zenkoji. The old town near Zenkoji is very pleasant. We went on the 28th or 29th, of that same trip. I’ve gone without my daughter to some sights further afield, but that was during the Fall and I am unsure what those sights are like in June. I keep meaning to go to Togakushi.

    We really liked Matsumoto and we also went to Kamikochi that trip. It rained a lot in Kamikochi and it was a huge bummer. It did do an awesome job of breaking the heat., since in we had been quite hot before we went to Kamikochi and by the time we came back we were freezing.

    I really want to go to Fukui (again) to go to Eiheiji, but I want to combine it with the dinosaur museum which is currently closed and not opening again until the nebulous “Summer.”

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