Three week solo trip to Japan – trip report & budget breakdown

I’ve been meaning to write this up for a while but time kept running away from me! This January I spontaneously decided to go on a 3 week trip to Japan by myself. I had less than 2 weeks to organise/ plan everything and this travel forum was a big help, so I thought I would pay it forward by sharing my itinerary and budget.

Across 21 days I traveled from Tokyo to Nagano, Shibu Onsen, Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, Matsumoto, Hirayu Onsen, Shinhotaka Ropeway, Takayama, Shirakawa-go, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Kobe, Himeji, Hiroshima, Miyajima Island, Naoshima Island and finally Osaka… it was a whirlwind, at times frenetic trip, but I never felt rushed or tired – one of the perks of traveling solo is the freedom to explore at your own pace.

As a solo female traveler, Japan is a marvel. It’s comfortable and convenient to get around, and I always felt incredibly safe. One of the highlights of my trip was walking around Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park in Kyoto at 1am during a snowstorm (you can see some of my photos[ here](https://www.reddit.com/r/travel/comments/11iiful/kyoto_during_snowstorm/)). I found Japanese people to be very friendly, courteous and hospitable – many were curious that I was traveling alone and were quick to offer help if I needed. As soon as I left Japan I was already planning a future trip in my head to visit during the spring/autumn!

**Itinerary Overview:**

**Day 0:** Fly into **Tokyo**, explore Akihabara

**Day 1**: **Tokyo** \- Asakusa (Senso-ji temple, Nakamise-dori), Tokyo Skytree, Kanda/Jimbocho (secondhand bookstores), Ginza

**Day 2:** **Tokyo**\- Tsukiji fish market, TeamLabs: Planets, Tokyo Ramen street

**Day 3:** **Tokyo** \- Menju-jiji shrine, Harajuku (Takeshita and Cat street), Shibuya (Crossing, Hachiko, Shibuya-central Dori)

**Day 4:** **Tokyo** \- Gotokuji temple, Shimokitazawa, Shinjuku (Omoide Yokocho, Golden Gai)

**Day 5: Nagano -** Train from Tokyo to Nagano. Zenko-Ji Temple (in Nagano). Train from Nagano to Shibu Onsen

**Day 6: Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.** Train from Shibu Onsen to Matsumoto

**Day 7: Matsumoto -** Matsumoto Castle, Matsumoto Museum of Art. Bus from Matsumoto to Hirayu Onsen. Hirayu No Mori (outdoor open-air onsen)

**Day 8: Shinhotaka Ropeway -** Bus from Hirayu Onsen to Shinhotaka Ropeway. Snow hike tour on Shinhotaka. Bus from Shinhotaka to Takayama

**Day 9: Takayama** \- Higashiyama temple walk, Sanmachi suji (Edo-era architecture), Hida Folk Village

**Day 10: Shirakawa-go -** Bus from Takayama to Shirakawa-go. Bus from Shirakawago to Kanazawa. Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Art.

**Day 11: Kanazawa -** Omicho fish market, Kazue-machi Chaya and Higashi Chaya Geisha districts, Kanazawa Castle, Nagamachi Samurai district, Kenrokuen garden

**Day 12: Kyoto -** Shinkansen from Kanazawa to Kyoto. Nishiki market, Fushimi-Inari

**Day 13: Kyoto -** Higashiyama walking route (Silver Pavilion, Path of Philosophy, Nanzen-ji, Chion-in, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka, Yasaka Pagoda, Hizamazu-dera), Evening walking tour in Gion

**Day 14: Kyoto -** Kinkaku-ji, Arashiyama (Bamboo grove, Tenryu-ji temple, Okochi-Sanso Villa, Togetsukyo Bridge), Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park

**Day 15: Nara** (half-day trip from Kyoto) – Todaiji Temple, Isuien Garden, Kofukuji Temple

**Day 16: Kobe/Himeji -** fast train from Kyoto->Kobe->Himeji->Hiroshima

**Day 17: Hiroshima -** Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Miyajima Island (*Itsukushima Shrine,* Daisho-in, Mt-Misen Ropeway, Mt Misen Summit hike)

**Day 18: Naoshima Island -** Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Okayama, bus to Uno, ferry to Naoshima. Naoshima Art House Project, Ando Museum, Chichu Art Museum, ‘Open Sky’ Night program

**Day 19: Naoshima Island -** Benesse House Museum, Valley Gallery, Lee Ufman Museum, Hiroshi Corridors exhibition. Ferry + bus + train to **Osaka.** TeamLabs Osaka Botanical Gardens exhibition, Dotonbori street food

**Day 20: Osaka** \- Kuromon Ichiba fish market, Shinsaibashi-suji. Fly home!

​

**BUDGET BREAKDOWN** (currency is in AUD)**:**

**Accom**: **$809 total for 20 nights**

* Capsule hotel in Akihabara, Tokyo: $38 per night (3 nights)
* Capsule hotel in Shinjuku, Tokyo: $65 per night (2 nights)
* Ryokan guesthouse at Shibu Onsen: $100, one night
* Ryokan guesthouse at Hirayu Onsen: $66, one night
* Capsule hotels in Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Hiroshima & Osaka: $25-35 per night
* Yurt on Naoshima Island: $44, one night

If you are a solo traveler on a budget in Japan, capsule hotels are the way to go! I was constantly impressed at how *meticulously* clean they were – compared to the hostels in Europe and Southeast Asia that I’m used to, capsule hotels in Japan are nothing short of luxury. Most even provide you with complimentary fresh pajamas, slippers, and a little toiletry bag.

If you can, I highly recommend staying in a traditional ryokan guesthouse at least once, especially in a little Onsen village in the Japanese Alps!

**Food**: **$847 total**

On average I spent $12 – $20 per meal, although I did occasionally splurge on expensive meals such Kobe beef, Japanese Snow crab etc.,. Usually I only eat one or two sit-down meals a day: for breakfast I would pick something up from a convenience store (you can find a huge range of delicious, ready-made meals in supermarkets and corner stores), and for lunch I mostly ate street food or ramen.

My favourite dishes were tsukemen (‘dipping’ ramen – absolutely incredible), shabu shabu, dry buckwheat soba (a specialty of the Nagano region), Kaitenzushi (‘conveyor’ belt sushi – very affordable, so many different types of fish!) , and of course, Hida and Kobe beef. You can sample a huge array of Japanese foods at morning fish markets, my favourite was Nishiki Market in Kyoto.

**Transport: $537 Total**

* Narita Airport Skyliner express: $30
* Tokyo subway: around $6-10 a day
* Tokyo->Nagano Shinkansen: $70
* Buses in the Japanese Alps: $100 total (traveling between Matsumoto, Hirayu-Onsen, Shinhotaka, Takayama, Shirawaka-go, Kanazawa)
* Kanazawa->Kyoto Shinkansen: $80
* Kyoto->Nara (return): $20
* 5-Day JR West Pass (Kansai region): $164 (fast train/Shinkansen between Kyoto, Kobe, Himeji, Hiroshima, Okayama, Osaka)
* Boat to Miyajima Island: $24
* Ferry to Naoshima Island (return): $12

Japan has the best public transport infrastructure in the world, by far. It’s affordable, frequent, efficient, and fast. However, I did get lost every time I used the subway in Tokyo – those stations are labyrinthine! Use google maps to find the right entrance/exit, because usually there are many!.

Since I was spending a lot of time in the Alps it didn’t make sense to buy a full JR Pass. However, as I planned on using the Shinkansen a fair bit to travel between Kyoto and Hiroshima, I bought a 5-day pass that only covered the Kansai Region. It’s worth calculating the cost of each leg of your transport to see if a full JR Pass is the most cost-effective option.

**Activities (museums, tickets, entry fees, tours): $453 total**

* Tokyo Skytree: $23
* TeamLabs planets Tokyo: $35
* Jigokudani Monkey Park Pass: $40
* Shinhotaka Ropeway Pass: $45
* Hirayu-No-Mori Open-air Onsen: $15
* Snow hiking tour on Shinhotaka Ropeway: $50
* Entry fees for temples, castles, gardens: $3-12 each
* Gion Evening Walking Tour: $17
* Mt Misen Ropeway (Miyajima Island): $22
* Naoshima Island museums: $70 total
* TeamLabs Osaka Botanical Gardens: $17

**Admin / miscellaneous (e-sim data, coin locker for luggage, IC card): $158**

I bought an e-sim through GetYourGuide. It worked well, but I went through about 1GB every 2 days, so it’s worth paying extra for more data. Arilo is also a good option.

Having coin lockers available in train stations and bus depots throughout the country made traveling around so much easier – I was able to leave my carry-on luggage at the station and explore a town for a few hours before heading on to my next destination.

IC cards are great – you use them for trains, trams, subway, buses, and also vending machines and some retail stores and restaurants. Very easy to top up at kiosks in train stations.

**TOTAL TRIP COST:** **$2804** **(excluding international flights).**

On average I spent $133 AUD a day – around $35 AUD per day on accommodation, $35-40 on food, and the rest on transportation, entry fees, activities etc.,

I would say traveling in Japan is more affordable than Western Europe and Australia, but significantly more expensive than other parts of Asia.

**Stray observations:**

* Cash is still king in Japan, especially for entry fees to temples, parks etc.,
* Be prepared to carry around your trash – Japan is very clean and I rarely saw any litter, but public bins are difficult to find!
* Similarly, you won’t find many public drinking fountains – I usually topped up my water bottle in public toilets, which are extremely clean
* don’t eat and walk at the same time – street food stalls will have designated spots for you to stand and eat
* Hardly anyone shouts or talks loudly on their phone, no one eats or drinks on the subway, no one jaywalks or pushes in line… Japanese people are very respectful in public spaces
* Vending machines are everywhere, with hot drinks available! This was a treat during the winter – warm lemon tea was my favourite.

There it is! Happy travels everyone