Ryokan Review Part 4 – Tawaraya

The final ryokan is Tawaraya in Kyoto. It’s considered one of the best so I was really curious how it would measure up to Gora Kadan. It’s a fairly exclusive property in that there is no way to book it online. You literally have to call. Depending on your time zone, you will have to stay up like buying Ghibli Museum tickets. They will put you through to Yoko-san who speaks really good English.

It was the most traditional ryokan of the four even if it does not have an onsen. It’s also a very old property and Japanese houses have notoriously bad insulation so I worried about heating but it was not an issue. Given its age, it looked fantastic and functioned perfectly. I believe some reviews complained about this but I didn’t feel there was an detriment. In fact, it added to the character for me.

I stayed in Shorai with magnificent views of the garden. The room was plenty big just for myself. Similar to Asadaya, the foyer branches into two directions. The right takes you to the bath area with vanity, shower and cypress tub. The left lies the living/sleeping space, a kotatsu like space, all of which faces the garden.

I ruined my kaiseki dinner. Earlier I had visited the basement of Daimaru and overindulged on sweets. I had to stop half way and went on a walk instead. In typical Japanese politeness, upon my request the staff held the food until my return which they should not have. For one, it got somewhat late as I was out longer than intended. For another, I noticed ants when I returned. This also meant the manager on duty had to clear the table since my attendant already left for the night. I felt bad.

What sets Tawaraya apart from the rest is their immense attention to detail. Every single item is branded. From the throw to the soap to the socks. Yes, they have their own soap and it’s divine. It’s the only soap I took home all trip. And they’re aware and proud of it because they left signs stating that guests are welcome to take amenities home.

When I asked them to ship my luggage, they even have branded tags with Tawaraya on it! While there was no calligraphy brush or ink, they did have a branded postcard and envelope. Some may find all of this tacky but I believe they’re making a statement on the quality of their brand. I was actually disappointed that the mothballs attached to each hanger were not branded. (The hangers themselves are.) There’s one more attention to detail I will get to shortly.

The ryokan includes a library, a very intimate sitting room, and a shop. There are several gardens on the property and the indoor one changes depending on season I believe.

At checkout, they bring me my shoes and I encounter a surprise as I put them on. They were heated. I have never stepped into warm shoes and that sensation is simply bliss. I will definitely be back.

Pictures https://imgur.com/a/U99pDnx