5’6″ 275lbs 39 year old male, traveling with my 6’4″ 260lbs husband.
I didn’t find many perspectives from large people prior to embarking so I felt I would contribute with my experience as I sit on my flight back across the Pacific.
First off I was worried that I would get lots of stares, nasty looks, and outright discrimination from my largely trim hosts While I’m not the most observant person, I found this to actually not be the case whatsoever. I can’t recall once getting a nasty look or comment from anyone. I felt perfectly normal and I fit in completely fine.
Second, I found a lot of the spaces in restaurants, izakayas, public transport much smaller than usual, but perfectly fine to navigate. I wasn’t dissuaded from visiting anywhere because I wouldn’t fit- though sitting on tatami mats several times for a tea ceremony and a meal proved incredibly uncomfortable.
Third, it was dismaying, though certainly not unexpected, that I couldn’t purchase clothing of any kind anywhere in Japan. If I soiled a shirt at teppanyaki or after eating taco bell, I had to wear it on my shirt all day for everyone to see. I couldn’t rent a kimono/yukata and take cute pictures because I was too large, I couldn’t buy any pokemon shirts at the Pokemon Center, or anything like that, either. That was a bit of a downer that might normally be overlooked.
But my final ‘large person’ observation is the biggest one of all, and that is that despite knowing full well ahead of time what I was in for, the sheer amount of walking and stair climbing and hiking was far, far too much for me, and it ultimately took a lot away from my trip. Let me explain before everyone jumps on me for all the various reasons.
When you book a hotel “4 mins walking” q(according to Google Maps) from Shinjuku station, it’s actually more like 34. I pick Shinjuku because while most people already know it is the busiest station on earth, you don’t actually know how completely fucking labyrinthine this place is- or how most stations are- for that matter. You have to leave many stations just to walk to another one where your connecting line is. I don’t know how Google Maps calculates its estimates but they are always WILDLY misleading for any newcomer to Japan. It seems to assume that you can read every sign, can anticipate every single random hallway you enter thinking it’s your exit, that there is no foot traffic, etc. It must also assume that youre already at street level because it can be the only explanation for why it is always a 7 minute walk to your destination, but it’s actually 30.
And this is the case everywhere you go in the big cities. You think it’s 45 minutes to the Tokyo Dome from your hotel which is right next to Shinkuku Station (this is why you booked the hotel here, after all) but it’s always- always an hour+.
So now you’d like to take a breather somewhere and just sit. Think again! There is scarcely a seat to be found ANYWHERE, least of public spaces like shrines or even parks and especially at the train stations. The seats in restaurants are mostly small stools and tiny chairs and it doesn’t seem to be any secret that you aren’t meant to sit down anywhere. It’s a phenomenon that I don’t understand but is clearly engrained in the Japanese culture
Now for people who love walking and who are fit and love adventure, all of this may sound fun, even exhilarating to an extent. But to a large person like me it was more agony and disheartenment as the day wore on, and this invariably affected my husband’s enjoyment of his trip, which is the next thing I learned.
The mismatch in activity levels between my partner and I sucked for both of us. I found myself often becoming a hindrance to him because he would want to go out and do things while I simply couldn’t bear it, and he felt like he was leaving me behind. Obviously if you are traveling to Japan solo this point will be moot, but if you’re traveling with anyone who insists on filling every second of their vacation with taking in all Japan has to offer, you’re just not going to be able to keep up and you need to be ready for that reality. Allow them the space to go out alone if they so wish and don’t be ashamed or ‘feel like you missed out’ by staying at the hotel and chilling on your vacation if you need to.
So that’s my little bit of insight as to my experience as a large person visiting Japan. I am so glad I went and saw all the amazing things I saw, and thankfull to live out a dream, but I just probably wouldn’t visit again because the difficulty came too close to outweighed (no puns, please) the reward.
43 comments
Brother, I hear you! I’m 50 years old with 60 year old knees. 5’ 10”, 310 lbs. I had very similar experiences. For the most part my size was not an issue. I really did want to do a kimono dress up but could not. The added wrinkle was that I did not want to dress in a man’s kimono; I wanted a woman’s kimono! Of course, that wasn’t an option. And yes, the walking/stair climbing became a bit of an issue. But, I didn’t let it get in my way. Still had an amazing experience.
I have zero idea how Google calculates walking times in japan! Even outside of stations I feel like I need to power walk everywhere if I want to match their times
I’m glad you were able to enjoy at least some of your trip despite the difficulty
Thank you for sharing. Ive mentally prepared myself for the walking part but your post made me scared 🙈 I remember walking up and down Istanbul streets and my lungs almost gave out. 😂 Im asthmatic but its also Partially my fault because Im unfit and dont walk much. I guess Ill have to challenge and train myself to at least 15k steps slowly before my travels. Good tip on the Google map distances too! I should probably double or triple.
What was your experience finding places with King beds? Planning a trip coming up and we prefer King beds, but sometimes hard to find abroad
I came to Japan and am currently in Japan and have little to no plans. I have a list of things to do in each city, but nothing is planned. There’s someone in my group with mobility issues, and we just take the day as it comes. We’re doing like 1-2 things a day max. This might not be the most efficient use of time and money, but it’s the best we can do and it’s still amazing.
The 1-2 things a day method works great for me personally too since I have debilitating ADHD and doing more than one thing a day even back home is pretty pain inducing.
I think maybe if you come with everything planned out and you’re not hitting your expectations, you’re going to be pretty sad. And that goes for everyone not just people with mobility issues.
One other thing I thought I was prepared for but wasn’t: “sleeping” on a futon. I stayed at a ryokan in Kyoto for two nights. It was traditional and I loved it! But trying to sleep on a futon was not happening. I would stay at a ryokan again if I went back (for the hospitality, the onsen and meals) but next time I’m looking for one with traditional Western beds.
I noticed that Japan has rentable bikes and was considering that for our family if we can figure out how to use them. While we are avid city walkers who are very used to hills, I fully know my kid will want walking breaks whenever we can find them. Do people just collapse in the parks? where did you end up taking your breaks? how did you end up recharging on your busy days? Was renting faster modes of transportation (bikes, scooters) between stations ever an option for you?
Sorry about your experience in Japan. Everyone seems to underestimate how much walking and stairs are involved. I don’t think the time estimates are quite that bad, but the stations can be quite complicated.
General advice for stations, figure out what exit numbers you can use. Before you even leave the train platform, make sure you are heading in a direction for those exits. Once you get off the platform or leave the gate and you end up in the wrong part of a station, things can get lot more complicated. Take the time look at the signs, it will save walking time. (Osaka is far worse for long transfers)
Sitting can be a problem. Look for department stores and take the escalator up a couple floors. Find coffee shops or cafes to rest at. Some of the areas to sit at you may not have even recognized as we have some odd shapes to prevent people from sleeping there. Living here I know where to go, but in the tourist areas seating can be difficult outside of stores. Also, take taxis when it’s appropriate. Especially for short trips that involve getting to a station, stairs, waiting for and standing in trains then more walking to get back out to your destination.
All stations have special exits. Your exit will determine if you have to walk five minutes or thirty. If you’ve been there a while, you’ll get to the point where you actually know which train car to choose, so that you’re as close to your exit as possible.
Unless you know the station well, do NOT “just get out” and hope to figure out where you’re going. Youll walk literal miles in big stations.
You can also choose smaller stations nearby your destination., such as Higashi/Nishi/Minami Shinjuku instead of Shinjuku. Station exits tend to be roughly ten minutes walk apart from each other. Sometimes, that guarenteed three-to-five (at most ten) extra minutes is worth avoiding the chaos of a larger station, especially during rush hour, or otherwise the 30+ minute wander of shame.
You also learn what exits are a five minute walk uphill versus an eight minute walk downhill. For example, Omotesando is a great choice for someone who wants to explore the fancier streets of Harajuku but doesn’t want to walk uphill after going through Takeshita.
Japan can be overwhelming in that sense, yes.
Also you can’t really stop as there’s not many places to sit abs everyone is just constantly moving.
I love it since I’m a pretty fit guy but I understand how hard it can be.
Just to chime in. I’m 6’5″ and 235 lbs.
I had the privilege of living in Japan for four years as a DA Civilian. I can’t stress this enough; combinis (Lawson, 7/11, and Family Mart) are your best friend. Not fancy, but you can find them EVERYWHERE. A lot, but not all, have seating areas which can accommodate the, er, larger Western behind.
The biggest problem that I had with Japanese hotels were the showers. We had one in Tokyo where I had to contort a little to get clean. Thank god for removable shower heads. The one in Hiroshima? I literally had to wash from the waist down, get out, lean over the ‘tub’, and wash my upper body.
Visited a Japanese submarine, in a museum, and was surprised at the amount of headspace.
No complaints, I loved every minute of my stay, but, yeah, definite challenges for the Western build.
You don’t have to be that big to have difficulty finding clothes in Japan. I’m average size guy who goes to the gym and had to toss several expensive dress shirts I bought in Japan because they were way too tight across the chest.
As far as walking, I just spent 3 months in Japan. Wore out two pairs of sneakers walking everyday. It isn’t just that you walk a lot, but most of Japan is very hilly. I could tell that my cardio had definitively improved by the end of the trip.
>The mismatch in activity levels between my partner and I sucked for both of us. I found myself often becoming a hindrance to him because he would want to go out and do things while I simply couldn’t bear it, and he felt like he was leaving me behind. Obviously if you are traveling to Japan solo this point will be moot, but if you’re traveling with anyone who insists on filling every second of their vacation with taking in all Japan has to offer, you’re just not going to be able to keep up and you need to be ready for that reality. Allow them the space to go out alone if they so wish and don’t be ashamed or ‘feel like you missed out’ by staying at the hotel and chilling on your vacation if you need to.
I don’t think that’s weight related. I am pretty lazy on vacation while I have friends who like to do as much as possible everyday. I just go back to the hotel and let them enjoy their visits when I am tired. That seems logical and reasonable rather than forcing them to stop or forcing myself to continue.
Very thoughtful and informative post.
Even as a Japan-average sized individual, I think your remarks are useful for anyone not accustomed to Tokyo.
Sitting on tatami mats for dinner can be uncomfortable for the uninitiated. Similarly, your experience with Google maps makes a ton of sense.
You do learn the system over time, such as identifying in advance how to get to the exit you need. But yes, for the newcomer, budgeting an extra 15 min (or more) just to make your way through bigger stations makes sense.
I’m glad you braved the physically demanding streets to explore. You do get used to it, it’s a workout. By a few weeks you do get stronger. But regardless of your weight, depending on your fitness, expect to find yourself needing rest (and not finding a place to sit) when exploring the city.
The advice just to chill and enjoy your hotel room or maybe a nearby cafe is a very good one. Nothing beats sitting in a Tokyo cafe with an iced coffee and a few books or magazines for a few hours. The parks are also perfect for this, if the weather cooperates (which it almost never does…)
I do hope you come back and explore Tokyo again on your own terms. Over the years I’ve developed habits, like just stopping into one of the many generic British-style pubs just for one drink, or a revolving sushi joint just for a few plates just to sit and recharge for a bit. During off-hours, these places are often fairly empty, and just partaking slowly (but reasonably) is very comfortable. Back in the day, the video game arcades were great for stopping and sitting for an hour or so. The best way to enjoy Tokyo, IMHO, is just to enjoy being in Tokyo.
My husband is 6’4 and hit his head on everything once we left Tokyo (Hakone, Kyoto, etc). Like I think he banged his head at least daily.
OP I’m interested to know if you would visit again? And if so, would you prepare your fitness levels more and do you think that would lead to a better experience?
You mentioned benches, seats and distances as if it was Japan’s fault. These may just be observations or expectations that these things should be in place or you may just be giving a general heads up , it wasn’t clear so apologies if I’ve misunderstood.
It sounds as if the difference in fitness between your partner and yourself is something that could affect you both again in the future for different travel or experiences. Japan certainly has alot of walking but there are many places I’ve visited with less distance but hellish inclines etc!
Glad you enjoyed all of the other aspects of Japan.
I didn’t think I would be able to do it either but after coming back I feel more fit after all those damn stairs 🤣🤣
Keep in mind that Google Maps estimated times are largely based on the average data it gets, which is several million Japanese people who do this every day. Keep in mind the average walk speed here is much higher than you may be used to, which may explain the difference in estimation times and reality. It’s one reason I tell anyone who comes to visit here to no overbook their activities. My best friend had a similar experience of getting disheartened by all the walking he wasn’t used to. Keep in mind that people here don’t typically walk to and go to so many places every day, trying to cram in as much sightseeing as possible either. Japan is awesome, and your first trip can be amazing, but I do encourage anyone who comes to either give yourself lots of rest time in between or just plan fewer stops so that the walking doesn’t ruin your impression and enjoyment.
To add, please make sure you bring enough pain medication (ibuprofen, Tylenol, the like) because there aren’t any easily identified equivalents AND you’ll have to talk to a pharmacist to get something equivalent (in my experience).
I would also add, sentos are marvelous for soaking your aching bones. Or in the alternative, get some epsom salts and soak in the bath in your hotel.
Oh, and slip on shoes that will withstand walking. You will take your shoes off SO MUCH.
Those are some great additional tips! It’s definitely important to prepare yourself physically for the amount of walking that will be involved in exploring Tokyo, especially if you have any health conditions like asthma. And yes, Tokyo’s train stations can be incredibly complex and overwhelming, with multiple levels and many exits. Using Google Maps to plan your route ahead of time can definitely help reduce any confusion or stress. Bringing multiple pairs of comfortable shoes is also a good idea, as it can help prevent blisters and foot pain from wearing the same shoes all day.
Thank you for sharing. This is what diversity means- to hear from all perspectives. Thank you for writing this information for us.
Fellow large person here (5’11”, 290 lbs). About to finish my Tokyo trip tomorrow. In terms of clothing I had apprehensions about finding clothes if I needed them. And then the airline lost my luggage. So I needed them. Found a store called Sakazen in Kamata that had stuff that fit me. Not exactly cheap but it worked out.
And I agree about Google Maps and walking. Almost every station is/was a maze.
Thanks for writing this. Somewhat related, while Japan has came a long way, there’s still a lot of room for accessibility. For example, some stations still lack elevators.
The google map estimates unfortunately are based on locals I believe. As in it assumes you know where you’re going. It helps if you stay several days in one place. I was able to navigate Kyoto station on my fourth day without google maps.
Sorry that clothing do not come in your size.
I’m an Australian military veteran with chronic pain in my left leg. Currently half way through my 10 day holiday in Japan (3rd trip, first post pandemic).
I have to take tolerance breaks to ease aggravation in general. But also just taking the walks easy like not rushing and keep it to a nice stroll. It might add some time to the trips, but I am able to do more overall.
There is so much to do and see in Japan, and when you visit the first time, you can get overwhelmed and try cram in too much.
It’s very sad to hear you didn’t enjoy your trip as you had hoped, but it sounds like you put in a lot of effort for your husband. I’m going shortly, and I have a feeling this might be the case for my fiance. I’ve done a lot of planning and have plenty I want to see, but I worry about him exhausted with all the walking and not being able to sit much. I read him your post, and since we both will have data I can keep him in the loop of where I am and what I’m seeing though pics, while he can relax somewhere while I venture on to do things separately if need be. I hope he doesn’t feel like he’s forced to keep up with me if he chooses to relax. I’ve traveled alone in the past so I don’t need him by my side at all times. I really hope all that you saw and did was enough for you, and tho it may not be all that your partner wanted, that you can look back on fondness with the things you did experience.
The lack of places to sit was a bummer for me. I’m mildly active but that doesn’t mean I don’t like to sit after a bit. I remember only two times I got to sit on a bench in two weeks: at Disney and at the park in Shinjuku.
It seems like a weird thing for a country with so many elderly folks.
I feel the pain for not being able to buy clothes in Japan.. i wanted so many snoopy shirts!
My first trip I had a similar walking experience. I stayed in the hotel extra and my wife went and had a nice time solo, which was not great for my mental health but did let me rest my feet.
I did get a few weird looks as a 6ft femme coded person but I also have a ton of tattoos. At least a few mothers standing between me and their kids😅 I am not offended, I get it!
Did your husband have any particular issues being 6’4”? Did anyone ask to take a picture with him or did you notice anyone taking pictures?
Also, how was traveling as a gay couple? Did you have any issues/reactions when booking a room together?
Thank you for this post and your insight. I’m going to Japan in less than 2 weeks and have been wondering how I’ll do there. I’m a plus size gal, however, I’m working on losing weight (30 lbs down so far) and I’m used to being on my feet and walking all day at work. I’m hoping I’ll manage.
For those interested in Universal Studios and Disney. I am 5’8″/230 and at both parks, for certain rides, the crew asked me to do a “seat check” to ensure I could fit safely. At first it was a little shame, but I preferred checking before than getting through the line and finding out I couldn’t. All the thrill rides had the seat test near to where you enter. In the end, I could ride everything and had a blast.
For anyone who may be traveling soon, I would recommend Google maps for your station navigation. Don’t just put the train stations you need in Google Maps, though. Put your current location and your final destination (i.e. Sensoji Temple instead of Asakusa Station) Google maps will then tell you which exit to take as well as which section of the train is closer. This can help save you walking several blocks to find your destination
This is city life everywhere, though, and is one of the reasons people who live in cities tend to be in better shape than suburban dwellers.
You were eating Taco Bell while in Japan!?
Best advice: 1) plan your trip around the abilities of the most limited person to avoid frustration and disappointment; 2) start walking several miles per day 3-4 weeks before the trip if you’re not someone who already has this level of stamina; 3) practice sitting on the floor to develop core muscles and flexibility if sitting on tatami mats for temples or traditional restaurants/tea is something you want to do.
We just went to Japan with 80+ year old family members and a lot of the same things apply. We planned the trip according to the physical abilities of the least able person. We planned only one major activity per day, with anything else a bonus. We hired a guide with a vehicle in Kyoto/Uji/Osaka to minimize walking. We took taxis for some travel when we otherwise would have walked (this added to the budget). The person with limitations was prepared with a tablet/book to amuse herself in the hotel so the rest of us could go out if we spent the morning doing a lot of walking and she needed to rest. We had to identify the nearest elevator in every subway/train station when we ordinarily would not have used elevators. We had to plan our luggage so that two of us could carry all the luggage in case the elderly people were tired or in the few cases where using stairs was required.
Mentally adjust to being OK with some solo adventuring if only one person has the energy to do something and wants to go out – I’m a person who loves some alone time so I really enjoyed going solo here and there. Part of your enjoyment of the trip can be deriving satisfaction from the other person getting to see what they want to see even if you can’t accompany them.
Buy a bike next time, you extend your range a lot with a bike vs walking everywhere.
I have but one question…why in gods name would you eat at Taco Bell if you’re in Japan 😭
I just got back from Singapore and I’ve been to Japan twice…I hear ya! The lack of public seating in Asia is mind boggling. Malls are a big deal in Singapore because of the extreme heat and there is no seating anywhere unlike western malls. This is also the same for parks which I found to be very odd. I am hoping to return to Japan in the fall but I dread the lack of seating…I still have memories of the leg aches and pains from the last 2 times.
Not sure if you wore any kind of watch that had a steps/fitness tracker but do you know how many miles/steps you walked a day?
May not be the most relevant but if it comes up I’ve heard Japanese costco (it’s just normal costco but in japan) carries US men large sizes
Have you considered using a walking stick that converts into a portable chair? I saw a few seniors using it. Another option to possibly consider: wheelchair rentals. I hear they’re often free of charge to rent at most tourist spots.
Japan in general is so disability unfriendly.. no public seating, stairs, hills, its a nightmare for mobility issues.
I always tell people the gps estimates are ‘japanese walking time’ which is plus 2-3x for americans.
Huge stations are hard to navigate. Staying near one of the smaller yamanote stations is much easier without loosing much if anything in the way of navigation ease.
Clothes are always sad, but im 510 so ive never been able to fit in anything there so its mostly a forgone conclusion.
On one trip, the walking was so hard on me and so painful, when I got home i found out i had hairline fractures in my feet from too much walking, which is a thing that can happen.
All that said I keep going back LOL. My spouse and I are planning a trip for this fall. I’m in much better health then last time, but its still important to factor in when planning.
Honestly I don’t think your experience is just due to your size. Most Americans are totally unprepared for the levels of walking due to our car based lifestyles. I went to Japan as a decently fit high schooler and I still found the lack of seating combined w all the walking to be exhausting. Especially since we were there in the summer. My feet were beat tf up at the end, and god almost everyone on my trip got heat stroke once. I think most Americans needs to be cautious about not biting off more itinerary than they can chew, or prepare to pay more in cab fair. Especially on top of the jet lag, the exhaustion can catch up to you fast.