16 day Trip Report- Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima/Miyajima, and Kinosaki – part 1

Just came back from Japan and wanted to share our trip report while it is still fresh! We had a fabulous time and so happy to complete our dream trip (originally planned for April 20202). Happy to answer any questions as well.

About us: 33 YO married couple from northeast US, quite active, experienced travelers but first time in Japan. Flew round trip EWR-HND. We only travel with carry on luggage + backpack each as I hate checking bags and prefer to travel light.

Basic trip outline (since the below is quite long – breaking into 2 posts!):

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* **April 13-17: Tokyo**
* Hotel Gracery Shinjuku (just okay, very tiny)
* **April 17-21: Kyoto**
* Hotel ALZA Kyoto (highly recommend)
* **April 21-23: Osaka** (w/ day trip to Hiroshima/Miyajima)
* Hotel 88 Shinsaibashi (highly recommend)
* **April 23-26: Kinosaki**
* Moriyuza Ryokan (highly recommend)
* **April 26-28: Tokyo**
* Hotek Ryumeikan Tokyo (recommend for close, clean hotel near Tokyo Station and spacious room)

We got the JR Pass 14-day, activate April 13-26 and purchased from the official JR website. We booked all of our shinkansen trains in advance online which was really nice feature of using the official site.

Tokyo:

* **April 13- arrival:**
* We were supposed to have direct flight Newark to Haneda scheduled to land 1:35pm. However, our plane was delayed and then diverted with a stop to SFO due to volcanic ash on original route and the need to refuel (random, I know), which meant we didn’t arrive at Haneda until \~8pm. By the time we were in the airport, the JR office was closed so we were not able to pick up our JR passes as originally planned. This was okay since we didn’t need to use until 4/17. Since our travel was 20 hr instead of the originally planned 14, we were EXHAUSTED and decided to take a taxi to our hotel in **Shinjuku** (even though I knew this would be $$)- in hindsight this was an unnecessary splurge and we could have just taken the train. Getting through at HND was very quick and smooth thankfully as was check in. After dropping off our bags, we walked around **Kabukicho** (excellent people watching haha) and explored **Omoide Yokocho** in a bit of a daze. Sat down at a little izakaya there and had some really good sushi. Ate some touristy taiyaki, got some snacks at our closest Lawson, and called it a night. We stayed at Hotel Gracery Shinjuku (the Godzilla hotel) – very tiny room and curtain did not cover window well.
* [Pictures from Day 1](https://imgur.com/gallery/G0XySdY)
* Thoughts from day 1: glad we didn’t plan anything for the day we landed, so the delayed flight didn’t put too much a damper on things. Probably should not have gotten the taxi but oh well
* **April 14:** **Meiji Shrine–Harajuku–Yoyogi Park–Shibuya–Shibuya Sky–Ebisu omakase**
* Step count: 44,126 (yes we are crazy but we LOVE to walk)
* First full day in Tokyo. Woke up insanely early (thanks to jet lag) but used this to our advantage and were out the door by 6 am. Walked from our hotel to Meiji Shrine and were basically the only ones there which was so cool. Walked to Harajuku but since it was 7:45 am, it was empty and no stores were open. Got some good pics of the signs though before the crowds! Decided to kill some time and check out Yoyogi Park to wait for things to open up, which was really nice as it was a sunny day. Window shopped on Omotesando street, then circled back to **A Happy Pancake**, which didn’t open until 10 am but there was a sign up sheet outside and we put our name on the list (3rd couple) and were seated right at 10 am when they opened. Definitely touristy but it was fun and the jiggly pancakes were pretty good! Circled back to Harajuku to see it more in full swing. Popped into a couple shops but didn’t buy anything. Definitely check out the store with the tiny puppies/kittens in the window!! Walked to Shibuya and saw the crossing (street level, didnt bother with the Starbucks view), saw the people on the Mario go karts whiz by, and explored some cool stores. Had ramen and tsukemen at **Menya Nukaji** around 2pm – very short, quick line and ordered using the vending machine which was cool. Had to kill a few hours before our Shibuy Sky timed ticket, so popped into Gigi arcade for some games (and to finally sit!). It got really overcast by the time of our 4:20 pm Shibuya Sky tickets but it was still a nice view over Tokyo and cool to see the scramble from above. Took metro back to Shinjuku to change before our omakase at **Sushi Ebisu Endo** at 8:30 pm. This was a really fun experience but I was surprised that a good number of the courses were not sushi and some were quite adventurous even for us (whale sperm, eel larva things haha). It was super pricey splurge but I always wanted to do omakase in Japan. FYI we booked in advance using TABLEALL and this was not our first choice place (instead an alternative they recommended), so in hindsight would have researched more thoroughly.
* What went well: waking up early, having Meiji Shrine to ourselves, exploring Yoyogi Park, lots of walking/exploring which I love, front of line for pancakes. Being in awe of the crowds in Shinjuku station and Shibuya Crossing, how well dressed Tokyoites are, and how clean and quiet everything is.
* What I would have done differently: Didn’t love our omakase (not worth the $$ compared to the other food we ate). Would have preferred Shibuya Sky on clear day, but since tickets had to be bought in advance, couldn’t really plan for this. Also we were exhausted since we woke up so early, but had to push through bc of our timed tickets. Also didn’t love staying in Kabuki-cho overall – it was to the west so not central to everything, the least clean area we visited, and definitely a party atmosphere (which would have been fun but jetlag got us). Probably would have stayed in a different area in Tokyo for the first leg of the trip.
* [Pictures Day 2](https://imgur.com/gallery/HVbTYdh)
* **April 15: Tsukiji Market, Ginza, Art Aquarium, Teamlab planets**
* Step count: 22,205
* Again woke up super early (jet lag). Got to **Tsukiji Market** by 7:45 am. It was a rainy day (bought small umbrellas at Lawson) and we were early, so the crowds were not bad at all. Tried the grilled scallops (amazing), tamago (so good), eel rice bowl, dango, mochi with white strawberries. Spent about 1.5 hours there. Walked to Ginza and admired the amazing architecture and impeccably clean streets. Went to **Ginza Kimuraya** bakery and had some delicious melon pan. Had time to kill so went to **Art Aquarium** in Ginza around 11:45 which was crowded (it was a rainy day) but was still unique and pretty cool to see, spent about 40 min there. Buy timed tickets online for small discount. Walked to the Nittelle Really Big Clock (Ghibli) then spent 45 min in Itoya stationary store (I love art). Then headed to Toyosu via metro for our 3:00 pm TeamLab planets ticket. My husband enjoyed but I was not a fan of TeamLab (see my other comments on this sub re it – it was really crowded, lots of tourists trying for the “perfect Insta shot” and smelly bc of the rain, and not really unique to Japan imo). I kinda raced through in 1 hr. After we were exhausted and hungry. At 5pm we checked out Udon Shin figuring it was early and there was a 3hr wait (no thanks), so we just went to **Fuunji** ramen instead which had a line but went really quick (< 20 min wait) and was yummy, then went back to our hotel and crashed
* What went well: getting to Tsukiji early and trying all the food, shopping at Itoya, stumbling into Art Aquarium
* What would have done differently: would have skipped TeamLab and used this time elsewhere
* [Pictures day 3](https://imgur.com/gallery/uM827i7)
* **April 16: Sensoji, Sumida waterfront, Akihabara**
* Step count: 32,165
* Again woke up super early. Headed to Asakusa for Sensoji temple and got there by 7 am so crowds were minimal and we got great pictures. However the Nakamese shopping street was not open yet so we decided to walk to the Sumida waterfront and cross the bridge to kill some time so we could explore again once things opened up. Went back at 9am, and tried ningyo-yaki and looked at some souvenirs. Also had food from street stands toward the back of the temple complex, including yakisoba, beef yakitori, and even a fried cheese stick. Walked to **Taiyaki Sharaku** and had delicious fresh made Taiyaki when it opened at 10:30 am along with my favorite matcha drink of the trip. Saw Tokyo Sky Tree in the distance. Walked down Kappabashi Street (kitchen town) to browse knives and then headed to Akihabara. Planned to try Gyukatsu Motomura here but the line seemed long and we were tired and not wanting to wait, so we opened for tonkatsu at a busy fast food joint in Akihabara instead which was pretty good (I’m not big on fried food). A nice Japanese man next to me even wordlessly handed me a coupon! Explored Akihabara and shopped for some souvenirs for friends (I’m not big into anime but my husband likes it). Checked out M’s (7 floor sex shop) which was fun and went to a few arcades. Checked out Super Potato for retro games but it was really crowded in there. We did play some retro games on the top floor there however. Lots of on/off rain showers but quite hot this day. We made last min Google reservations for 7:30 pm at a sushi place in Roppongi, but I got really tired/nauseous with jet lag/lack of sleep catching up to me, so crashed at 7pm and I skipped dinner while my husband went out near our hotel in Shinjuku for karaage.
* What went well: Seeing Sensoji without the crowds, delicious street food. Taiyaki Sharaku, arcades in Akihabara, loved seeing Kitchen street
* What I would have done differently: probably should have relaxed a little so I didn’t crash so early; probably should have waited for Gyukatsu as I had wanted to try this
* [Pictures day 4](https://imgur.com/gallery/J8FCYQp)
* **April 17: Tokyo –> Kyoto: Nishiki Market, Kyoto Station, Kyoto Tower, Nishiki Tenman-gu Shrine.**
* Step count: 25,007
* Took 11:33 am train from Tokyo station to Kyoto, arriving 2:12pm. In AM, we experienced Shinjuku station at rush hour (crazy busy), and arrived at Tokyo Station early to explore and have traditional Japanese breakfast set. Saw Mt Fuji from the train. Stored our bags in Kyoto Station and headed right to Nishiki Market (got there by 2:45 pm). Had delicious food there and fun exploring despite the crowds. We had gyoza, shrimp tempura, the most amazing yams, and matcha ice cream (level 3 of 4 – so good). Saw Nishiki Tenman-gu Shrine right outside the market. Passed by a Japanese whiskey “museum” and saw really $$ whiskey bottles. Saw view of Kyoto tower near the station. Checked into Hotel ALZA – highly recommend this hotel. Our room was HUGE, the bathroom was amazing (tv in the tub room!), and excellent location for everything. Explored Pontocho at night. Originally waited in what we thought was short line for Sushi Taka, but after 45 min (saw a geisha while waiting tho!) gave up and ended up having conveyor belt sushi at **MoriMori Sushi** which was fun and actually quite good! Afterwards, we checked out **Rum and Whisky**, a hidden bar on the (2nd?) floor of a building serving exclusively Rum and Whisky as the name demonstrates. This was a trip highlight and I highly recommend. We were the only ones in the bar and the bartender was SO friendly and knowledgeable. We got to try many different whiskeys and rums from the area and beyond and learned so much about Japan in the process. Truly a gem.
* What went well: Nishiki market food, our hotel’s location, Rum and Whisky bar
* what would have changed: Would not have bothered waiting in line for sushi at night.
* [Kyoto 1](https://imgur.com/gallery/3XP6DZu)
* **April 18th**: **Kiyomizu-dera, Maruyama Park, Nanzen-ji Temploe–>Philosopher’s Path–> Ginkaku-ji**
* Step count: 36,312
* Woke up super early again (Jet lag really killed me hah) so we walked to Kiyomizu-dera early, taking some lovely pictures along the way of the empty Kyoto streets. Even saw a bride taking pictures =). Arrived at 8am and it was basically empty which was amazing. We were wowed by the temple complex’s beauty and lovely views of Kyoto (it was a gorgeous morning). While exploring the complex, found a little hiking path (on wait to Seikan-ji temple there) and spent 1 hr hiking among the red pines without a person in sight. With this excursion, left around 10 am (after having matcha/sakura soft serve) and explored Sannen-zaka street as the crowds were coming. Walked through the lovely Maruyama Park and then arrived at **Hinode Udon** around 10:40 am, and were the first ones seated once it opened at 11, avoiding the line. Omg the curry udon was DELICIOUS. Around the corner we stumbled on a delightful cafe, Botanic Coffee Kyoto, and had really good tea. Then headed to Nanzen-ji temple which we really enjoyed. The aquaduct was lovely and the grounds were really pretty. Also had an informative video inside the main building. Walked along Philosopher’s Path to Ginkaku-ji which was also really pretty and had some bamboo groves in the back. After Ginkaku-ji, we decided to do the [Mt Daimonji-yama Hike from Ginkaku-ji Temple](https://www.insidekyoto.com/mt-daimonji-yama-hike-ginkaku-ji-temple) which took about 1 hr. We had reservations at **Bamboo-Higashiyama Sanjo** izakaya (made them on Google the night before since we didn’t want to wait in lines) and had a great dinner and sake. Explored the area and called it a night.
* What went well: Amazing day overall, happy we went early morning to Kiyomizudera, random unexpected hike behind it, udon at Hinode, our first izakaya experience
* What would do differently: nothing
* [Kyoto 2](https://imgur.com/gallery/0hmN2Xn)
* **April 19th: Arashiyama, Monkey Park, Adashino-Nembutsu-ji, Otagi Nenbutsuji, Koda-ji night illumination**
* Step count: 33,830
* Finally didn’t wake up \*quite\* as early. Took the subway to Arashiyama from our hotel (very convenient). Arrived at 9am and decided to head right to the Monkey park since this was more exciting to me than the bamboo grove (we decided we may skip it since we had heard about crowds and that it was small). We were some of the first people at the monkey park and had fun feeding and observing the monkeys, especially the babies! and got great pictures too. Note it is a 20 min kinda steep walk up to the monkey park after paying at the entrance. Left and decided to get in line for **Arashiyama Yoshimura** soba noodles at \~10:25 am and were 2nd group in line. We sat there until it opened at 11 and were happy we did this- the soba was really good and it was a nice break to sit! Had some matcha ice cream nearby and then planned to walk right to Adashino-Nembutsu-ji given the time (and misty weather) but we inadvertently took a route that actually lead use through the Arashiyama bamboo grove! It was pretty but crowded/small. Really enjoyed both Adashino-Nembutsu-ji and Otagi Nenbutsuji temples – they were empty and so unique! Was also a really cool vibe in the misty weather and found really lovely craft shops for souvenirs along the way. Also, got amazing pictures at Adashino’s bamboo grove in the back and there were 0 people there!! Def a hidden gem. We finished up there by 2pm and took a bus back to our hotel -the bus was crazy crowded but you can use Suica card which is nice. Freshed up at hotel and decided to go for super early dinner at **Sushi Taka** (where we waited in line on night 1) and got there when they opened at 4pm and were seated right away. Delicious sushi. We explored Gion at night and saw Yasaka Shrine lit up, walked thru Maruyama Park again (gorgeous at night) and saw the Koda-ji night illumination which was so cool!
* What went well: exploring a few less popular temples, eating early, and seeing the night illumination
* What I would change: nothing
* [Kyoto 3](https://imgur.com/gallery/B3Yqaqp)

Ok this is WAY longer than anticipated, will finish rest of trip in separate post!