Trip Report – 2 weeks in September 2019 – Cities, Sea and Sake!

Trying to relive my holiday to Japan last year and decided to write up this trip report to help me reminisce (and hopefully help a few of you guys with planning your trips!)

**Overview**

I (25M from London) visited Japan in September 2019 for two and a half weeks with my parents and sister. We used the Rugby World Cup as a great excuse to visit Japan, a country we’ve always wanted to visit. I’ll keep the rugby stuff to a minimum but naturally the games dictated where we needed to be on certain days. There is plenty on this subreddit about logistics so I’ll only lightly cover some points but happy to answer any questions in the comments. On the weather, we were very lucky fitting out trip between two typhoons, it was generally warm with only a couple rain showers which we were able to avoid.

**Day 1 – Tokyo**

We flew into Haneda airport direct from London and arrived at out hotel, the [Asakusa View Hotel](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Asakusa+View+Hotel/@35.7155062,139.7897088,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m8!3m7!1s0x60188e9569ba6cab:0xcc19c71c2fe2d5a0!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d35.7155019!4d139.7918975), in the morning. It’s a good, if not outstanding, upmarket hotel with a delicious buffet breakfast. Most Japanese hotels are strict with their check-in times so we left our bags in the hotel reception to explore. We strolled to the gorgeous [Senso-ji](https://imgur.com/a/zbfDsa9), then climbed the Tokyo Skytree, worth it for the immense [urban sprawl of Tokyo](https://imgur.com/a/DZBiMQe). After returning to the hotel, we headed out for dinner on [Hoppy Street](https://imgur.com/a/8hIw78E), a bustling street with restaurants pouring out onto the road. We ate a series of small plates in place not even on Google Maps but I’ve [plonked you in front of it](https://www.google.com/maps/@35.7134683,139.794286,3a,75y,242.48h,83.85t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1srfHlDzBPpe82zk88zXU-Kw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192) on street view, before heading back to the hotel for a night cap.

**Day 2 – Tokyo**

Took the metro easily enough to Tokyo station where we sorted our JR pass before window-shopping in the upmarket [Ginza](https://imgur.com/a/Zt59UM1). Afterwards we headed to Shibuya and got an elevated view of the [crossing](https://imgur.com/a/2Jdwfp7) from the Starbucks. I’d recommend a walk down Cat Street where with its eclectic architecture and fashion shops. We then headed over to Shinjuku where we found a [restaurant](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Toriyoshi+Shoten/@35.6929677,139.6864717,14z/data=!3m1!5s0x601b91eaae054fad:0xbed3b967d005594!4m8!1m2!2m1!1sToriyoshi+Shoten!3m4!1s0x0:0x4ad0970754968f4!8m2!3d35.6951686!4d139.702583) where you ordered off iPads at your table for fried chicken and beer and headed into [Golden Gai](https://imgur.com/a/Ys7pCMq) and picked a bar at random for some drinks, its something you’ve got to try.

**Day 3 – Tokyo**

We hired a tour guide for a half-day to show us some sights and give us some insight and history we might otherwise have missed. It’s not something we usually do on our trips and while not essential, I would recommend it. We headed to the [Tsukji Fish Market](https://imgur.com/a/YZvWITC) and enjoyed the free samples and wide variety of produce. Afterwards we walked into the gardens of the [Imperial Palace](https://imgur.com/a/eCCWhLv) which while pretty were not the most exciting. We then travelled over to [Meiji Jingu](https://imgur.com/a/nhSi0lG) where, at around 12:30pm, we were lucky enough to see some wedding processions. Our guide then left us at a delicious [Ramen](https://imgur.com/a/J33JVgL) place nearby, [Oreryu Shio-Ramen](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Toriyoshi+Shoten/@35.6929677,139.6864717,14z/data=!3m1!5s0x601b91eaae054fad:0xbed3b967d005594!4m8!1m2!2m1!1sToriyoshi+Shoten!3m4!1s0x0:0x4ad0970754968f4!8m2!3d35.6951686!4d139.702583), where you ordered from a machine outside. We headed back to the hotel via a street corner with some sketchy looking, [mystery vending machines](https://www.google.com/maps/@35.6966305,139.7713316,3a,75y,75.61h,85.25t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sPxVcyivSREdODtoSQeM7Eg!2e0!7i16384!8i8192) and marvelled at every product devised by man in [Yodobashi Camera](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Yodobashi+Camera+Multimedia+Akiba/@35.6988687,139.7731854,524m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x7bb917c6708b7376!8m2!3d35.6989751!4d139.7746921).

Later I headed out to meet up with a school friend who was in Tokyo for work. He had got put in contact with a friend of his boss who took us to multiple local hangouts, including some great [Sashimi](https://imgur.com/a/lJYAmNt) in an [Izakaya](https://www.google.com/maps/place/%E6%B5%B7%E9%AE%AE%E5%B1%8B%E5%8F%B0+%E3%81%8A%E3%81%8F%E3%81%BE%E3%82%93+%E8%94%B5%E5%89%8D%E5%BA%97/@35.6961411,139.7646061,11911m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x60188eb7c5d6039b:0x5f13affb664ce47!8m2!3d35.7041558!4d139.7924209), although maybe that was the sake talking!

**Day 4 – Yokohama**

To the Nissan Stadium to watch Ireland v Scotland. Lawson came in handy for plenty of cans of beer and onigiri. It was really great to see the locals getting into the rugby spirit.

**Day 5 – Tokyo – Takayama**

A very hungover Shinkansen ride, firstly to Nagoya. We had a good bit of time until our next train so grabbed a cab to [Nagoya Castle](https://imgur.com/a/Hm6KSLQ). It was hot but worthwhile with some well renovated buildings to walk through. Back at Nagoya station and, with bento boxes in hand. We took a local train through the [stunning valleys](https://imgur.com/a/rwtVNID) of the Japanese Alps. We finally arrived in the small town of Hida-Takayama, Gifu where we were staying in a small, outstanding [Ryokan](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Yatsusankan/@36.2330294,137.1856322,855m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m8!3m7!1s0x6002a0e466f60155:0xf7efe6b87401e451!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d36.2330294!4d137.1878209). The hospitality was perfect and we had an obscene [9-course dinner](https://imgur.com/a/Q1PFi6B) with each course put together like an art work.

**Day 6 – Takayama**

We spent the day in the quiet village of Takayama, a total step change to Tokyo, watching the early-morning fisherman in the Miyagawa river. We visited the museum showcasing the village’s Okoshi Daiko festival, which looks like it would be a one-in-a-lifetime experience to visit for real. Then we visited the wooded, [Keta Wakamiya Shrine](https://imgur.com/a/u4F8jyx) at the edge of the village, we were the only people there which allowed for a special, serene experience. After lunch in what I can only describe as an old-lady’s front room we walked through the centre of the village, with [rivers of koi fish](https://imgur.com/a/7QokKYC) running along the streets. After popping out heads in a sake brewery we headed back to the Ryokan where we took it easy for the rest of the afternoon and I soaked away my troubles in the outdoor onsen.

**Day 7 – Takayama – Kyoto**

Got on the train in the morning and winded out way through the landscape to Kyoto. We were staying in a modern but traditionally inspired [Machiya townhouse](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Choya+Chawanzaka+Machiya+Residence+Inn/@34.9951815,135.7791745,305m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m8!3m7!1s0x600108ce19d8dfcb:0xb0fd33efe349d3b9!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d34.9951815!4d135.7799429), just a 5 minute walk from [Kiyomizu-dera](https://imgur.com/a/xumnbwp). So naturally that was our first stop, managing to catch the most gorgeous sunset as we arrived. That evening we walked through the ‘Geisha District’ looking for a place to eat but found all the prices to be obscene so ended up in a nice local bar specialising in ramen and tempura.

**Day 8 – Kyoto (& Kobe)**

We had heard about the huge crowds at the [Fushimi Inari Shrine](https://imgur.com/a/LGNJTpr) so managed to beat the crowds by getting up early, we arrived at 7:30am and it was plenty quiet enough to enjoy and get some Instagram shots if you’re that way disposed. I would recommend [hiking up](https://imgur.com/a/zCgQhDH) as least some of the way as well to get some great views back across the city. We then headed through the covered [Nishiki Market](https://imgur.com/a/DXUgiit) which had lots of interesting stalls before heading to Kyoto station. The station is gigantic and we headed up the [longest set of escalators](https://imgur.com/a/tgBc8jK) ever to have some tasty Okonomiyaki. The reason for visiting the station was to head to our next match, Scotland v Samoa in Kobe. It wasn’t a long journey and allowed us to return to Kyoto the same night.

**Day 9 – Kyoto**

Today was spent on local buses, criss-crossing Kyoto visiting the myriad castles and temples, including Nijo Castle, Kinkaku-ji and the Imperial Palace. I was most impressed with Kinkaku-ji, the [Golden Pavilion](https://imgur.com/a/ol8ZYLr). While very busy, the reflections of the golden building against the pond that surrounds it are well worth the visit. That evening, after dinner in a quiet but nice dumpling and udon [restaurant](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Fried+Dumplings+%2F+Soba+Udon/@34.9973217,135.7748679,868m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x600108cf60428169:0xb0e5da13ad4cb3af!8m2!3d34.9973217!4d135.7770566), I met up with a friend of mine also out in Japan for the rugby. He took me to a great standing bar he stumbled on, popular with locals called [Suiba](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Suiba+Shijo+Karawamachi/@35.0041509,135.7663139,735m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x60010895ae72a127:0x31b322cb283da9b7!8m2!3d35.0041509!4d135.7681684). Here we drank copious amounts of sake out of the traditional masu wooden box.

**Day 10 – Kyoto (& Nara)**

Popular on everyone’s list, including mine, was a day-trip to Nara. It’s not just about the deer here, get lost in the park and enjoy all the [different temples](https://imgur.com/a/HBF4I7x) it has to offer dotted around the park. The deer really do eat anything though, (including our guide book!) so watch out. We fancied a change in diet in Nara and could recommend the [Mellow Café](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mellow+Caf%C3%A9/@34.6828575,135.8257239,826m/data=!3m2!1e3!5s0x60013a281c19f63f:0x99f86b2b5dd21282!4m8!1m2!2m1!1spizza!3m4!1s0x60013a281d874265:0x2480f4dc8aa4bbbd!8m2!3d34.6828575!4d135.8277997) for some great, gourmet pizza. Back in Kyoto we had a drink in the Atlantis bar. It’s on a great narrow street filled with bars and restaurants and I’d recommend paying slightly more to be able to sit out on a terrace overlooking the Kamo River.

**Day 11 – Kyoto – Miyajima**

After leaving Kyoto our first stop today was Hiroshima, where we immediately took the bus to the Peace Memorial Museum. It is a sobering experience which doesn’t shy away from the horrors of what happened here, an uncomfortable but essential visit. We then walked over to the [Atomic Bomb Dome](https://imgur.com/a/7N8hSxp) which again is hauntingly beautiful and walked back to the station via the compact but lovely [castle](https://imgur.com/a/7N8hSxp). We then boarded a local train to the ferry crossing for Mijajima island. The Itsukushima Shrine was [covered in scaffolding](https://imgur.com/a/UKIzR8E) where we were there (this can happen a lot on a trip)! We knew this before we arrived but after we’d booked out night’s accommodation on the island. I have to say it was gutting because the scenery was amazing, even more so at night. The trip was enjoyable regardless, we caught the ropeway up the mountains to get some [great views of the sea](https://imgur.com/a/gSM0H19) dotted with islands. We were staying in another [Ryokan](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Iwaso/@34.2932514,132.3225431,1386a,35y,0.75h,3.51t/data=!3m1!1e3!4m8!3m7!1s0x0:0xc781352d889356dd!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d34.2952509!4d132.3217942) and this was a bigger affair and slightly more like a hotel but still a great experience, with another huge dinner and opportunity to use the onsen.

**Day 12 – Miyajima – Kobe**

Back to Kobe for another rugby match (England v USA). This time however we stayed in Kobe (in the functional [Daiwa Roynet Hotel](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Daiwa+Roynet+Hotel+Kobe+Sannomiya/@34.692754,135.1962769,3510a,35y,0.75h,3.48t/data=!3m1!1e3!4m8!3m7!1s0x0:0x6205256b3da2948e!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d34.693065!4d135.1985908)) which allowed us to indulge in some drunken karaoke in the evening. We found an [amusement arcade](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Round+One+Sannomiya+Station/@34.693779,135.196737,156m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xc80f1de499690d68!8m2!3d34.6940241!4d135.1973432) with karaoke in sound-proofed rooms, which I’m sure the staff were grateful for to avoid our atrocious singing.

**Day 13 – Kobe – Tokyo**

Before heading back to Tokyo we visited the museum on the Kobe earthquake of 1995. To be honest it was more catered to educating local school children about earthquakes than set up for tourists (and rightly so) with little information in English, so I wouldn’t recommend it too highly. We took the Shinkansen back to Tokyo where we stayed in the swanky, new [Gate Hotel](https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Gate+Hotel+Tokyo+by+HULIC/@35.6729489,139.7593854,861m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m8!3m7!1s0x60188b9b26515341:0x4fde96d9d827449f!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d35.6729489!4d139.7615741). After freshening up we headed to the bright lights of Shunjuku and to the [Robot Restaurant](https://imgur.com/a/3Psohfz). Is it a huge tourist trap? Yes. Did I have a great time? Yes. It’s over-the-top, kitsch fun and I’d gladly go again. Skip the food however and just enjoy the show.

**Day 14 – Tokyo**

We met up with some local family friends in the morning who took us to a [conveyor belt sushi restaurant](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nemuro+Hanamaru+Sushi/@35.679543,139.7649412,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc6d33f9b209d3a5d?sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj4xqn9qdDqAhUAShUIHbaZClwQ_BIwE3oECBcQCA) with long lines that I’d put down to its delicious, fresh sushi. Afterwards we headed out of the centre of town to Koenji which had a load of vintage clothes shops to cover every taste. Returning back into town we had [Yakitori](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Yakitori+Ton+Ton/@35.6730458,139.7585939,861m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x60188befba9debcf:0x14c4054a97d229a!8m2!3d35.6730458!4d139.7607826) under the railway arches, with the [grills filling the air with smoke](https://imgur.com/a/f1IWLgD).

**Day 15 – Tokyo**

Our final, full day of adventuring before heading back home. We decided to visit [teamLab Borderless](https://imgur.com/a/DZC6Xbl) in the morning and were glad we did. All the exhibits are beautifully conceived and each provides a unique assault on the senses. We then took a ride on the ferris wheel next door, because why not, and headed over to Odaiba Seaside Park where we caught a [futuristic looking boat](https://imgur.com/a/pSuzoLf) all the way along the river to Asakusa, providing a cool way to see the city. Clearly the ferris wheel has ignited something in us as we decided to go on the rollercoaster by the Tokyo Dome, there was no queue so treated ourselves to two rides each. A high-octane end to the trip of a lifetime.

**Summary**

I hoped some of the things I was lucky enough to do on my trip inspired some of you. Some places I visited were tourist hotspots and some were obscure local haunts. What I think makes any trip special though it making it your own, we didn’t necessarily seek all the places we visited out but stumbled across them, they were perfect in that time and in that place. Go and make out your own adventure, there is something exciting around every corner in Japan, enjoy!