Trip Report – June 2019 Golden Route


Hello! I’m currently too excited planning for our trip for next year, and it also has me looking back on our last trip in order to see what we would do different this time. I love reading trip reports so I thought it might be fun to relive my trip a little and do one myself. This was my first time ever leaving the city I grew up in so it was very exciting!

Day 0: Boarded my first ever plane ride from Toronto with a layover in Calgary, and then a 10 hour flight to Narita. My boyfriend has been on plenty of plane rides before so let me take the [window seat.](https://i.imgur.com/bZM0Sg7.jpg) We arrived in the mid afternoon and immediately went to pick up our pocket wi-fi (this was a life saver) and 14 day JR Passes. Took the Skyliner as our passes weren’t activated until the next day, and ended up walking from Asakusa Station to our hotel in Asakusabashi because we weren’t sure how the train system worked. This was a little inconvenient with our suitcases but was also a surreal moment to be walking through the streets I’ve dreamed of for 10+ years. We were super jet lagged so we checked into the hotel and got a quick [bite](https://i.imgur.com/7p3ZqJ7.jpg) at this [ramen place](https://i.imgur.com/OwvnE3o.jpg) across the street. The rest of the evening was spent exploring conbinis for [pudding](https://i.imgur.com/mSlJruX.jpg) and beer.

Day 1: Our first full day in Tokyo, and it started at 5am! We ended up waking up super early so grabbed some [coffee](https://i.imgur.com/no2chsa.jpg) and wandered the streets around our hotel. Came across a quaint [small shrine](https://i.imgur.com/4EtLVd3.jpg) in between the variety of shops before taking the train to Akihabara. I’m a huge anime nerd and couldn’t delay heading here. Unfortunately we got there so early that the [streets](https://i.imgur.com/iDoNGWL.jpg) were practically [empty](https://i.imgur.com/jEIQspn.jpg) and everything was closed. Decided to try our first vending machine [restaurant](https://i.imgur.com/PTMxy6F.jpg) while waiting for the stores to open. After some time spent figure hunting and eating [magikarp taiyaki](https://i.imgur.com/xq3r1bQ.jpg) we headed to Ikebukoro for Sunshine City. We came here for the Pokemon Centre but it was packed! Explored Ikebukoro streets for a bit and still super jet lagged dragged ourselves back to our hotel area to wander and [eat](https://i.imgur.com/1AEwjLz.jpg) a lot of [conbini food](https://i.imgur.com/GXanuGL.jpg).

Day 2: Disappointed in our Pokemon Centre trip the day before, we headed back over to Sunshine City to get a [proper look around](https://i.imgur.com/IBrSdfe.jpg) at it and a few other shops. We decided to catch lunch in the upstairs food part of the mall, which was under a lot of construction, but managed to find a cute little [shop](https://i.imgur.com/lONKE7l.jpg) serving tempura and [soba](https://i.imgur.com/FCPd8BM.jpg). Belly’s full, it was time to head to [Shinjuku](https://i.imgur.com/MXZfiCk.jpg)! This was our first experience with the [rainy season](https://i.imgur.com/IF4nw69.jpg), and quickly grabbed some cheap umbrellas before heading to the [Samurai Museum](https://i.imgur.com/Ft88SQS.jpg). We didn’t realize how small the place was, but the guide makes it a super [fun](https://i.imgur.com/AJeLzf8.jpg) and [informative](https://i.imgur.com/fmka7Tk.jpg) experience. The best part was the samurai ‘[battle](https://i.imgur.com/VSSLVBK.jpg)’ at the end of the tour. With the rain still coming down heavy, we took the short train ride to Harajuku to visit [Takeshita Dori Street](https://i.imgur.com/jSdzmWO.jpg). I assumed because of the rain there wouldn’t be many people, but no one seems to mind and it was still plenty packed. Spent a lot of time ducking in and out of cute shops and Daiso, before grabbing the famous [crepes](https://i.imgur.com/5ggz3L6.jpg). I still have dreams about these things. Feet plenty sore it was time to retire back to the hotel and try all of our Daiso snacks.

Day 3: Up early again! Still not adjusted we took a short train ride to the nearby [Sensoji Temple](https://i.imgur.com/AmNsVaH.jpg). In typical fashion we arrived [too early](https://i.imgur.com/4CJ65ZV.jpg) and most [shops](https://i.imgur.com/xfVrdEJ.jpg) were still in the midst of [opening up](https://i.imgur.com/Ku4Kzxj.jpg). We walked the length of the [temple](https://i.imgur.com/Ah3HFD5.jpg) and by the time we turned around to come back it was a completely [different place](https://i.imgur.com/u4EM8Bx.jpg). Picked up a super cute [bento box](https://i.imgur.com/8F2F1MM.jpg), yukata, and wall scroll here (albeit for a lot of money). The [garden area](https://i.imgur.com/CT7Avcu.jpg) to the left of the main temple was a [nice surprise](https://i.imgur.com/k0Vby15.jpg). From here it was time to head to [Shibuya](https://i.imgur.com/en7QNM6.jpg), as we wanted to check out the [crosswalk](https://i.imgur.com/sMheLeI.jpg) and [Hachiko](https://i.imgur.com/y0jFuh8.jpg) during the day. We had plans to come back here but left quickly to head towards [Meiji Shrine](https://i.imgur.com/b2koX7B.jpg). The [area](https://i.imgur.com/bLSAaMk.jpg) you walk through to get to the shine was one of my favourite places in Tokyo, [so green and surprisingly quiet](https://i.imgur.com/RkeX53i.jpg). Stopped for some more [ramen at Ippudo](https://i.imgur.com/0EbNbIU.jpg), which at the time were unaware it was a pretty popular chain restaurant. We were determined to stay awake into the night, so hopped on the train to [Nakano Broadway.](https://i.imgur.com/UKGfCfZ.jpg) We got lost navigating through this [mall](https://i.imgur.com/pO3pbxP.jpg), but did find a lot of reasonably priced statues, as well as some crazy [expensive old toys](https://i.imgur.com/9Exe9Ty.jpg). Super hungry we looked up some AYCE places, and found a nice looking restaurant in Akihabara called Onyasai. It was a little difficult to find but certainly [ended up being worth it.](https://i.imgur.com/zka9k30.jpg)

Day 4: Odaiba day! We left the hotel pretty early again, but with a specific destination in mind this time, which was to make it to [TeamLabs Borderless](https://i.imgur.com/BGRXk5f.jpg) before it opened. We arrived at about 8:50am and only waited in line for about 5 minutes before they began letting people in. I went into this place not knowing much, except to find the [lantern room](https://i.imgur.com/rg76VK8.jpg) first. Which I am so glad we did, because we walked right in, but when we returned later we realized it would be over an hour wait to get back in. Most of the other exhibits were pretty empty, and we spent a good 3 hours or so here before ending in the [tea room](https://i.imgur.com/4cwCWbz.jpg). I definitely recommend coming early, as it was PACKED by the time we were leaving. Was by far my favourite thing we did in Tokyo. I’m super sad Planets will be closed by the time we return next year. We [roamed](https://i.imgur.com/DBImBJm.jpg) around the island a bit, found the [Fuji TV](https://i.imgur.com/aGeMZ6X.jpg) building, the [Toyota Mega Web](https://i.imgur.com/zhDBxHb.jpg), Venus Fort, and then hunted down the giant [Gundam](https://i.imgur.com/QpTFJUl.jpg) and [Shonen Jump](https://i.imgur.com/RSDJAwg.jpg) shop. I’m super sad we didn’t stay to see the Gundam lit up, but the [views](https://i.imgur.com/KeUoRIa.jpg) from the shore of the [Rainbow Bridge](https://i.imgur.com/0sS79Xs.jpg) and weird [mascot](https://i.imgur.com/Ju6J3Il.jpg) skit [ended](https://i.imgur.com/Zzkh2DJ.jpg) the trip here perfectly. Went back to our hotel area and found a little hidden [Udon](https://i.imgur.com/5GKmHqM.jpg) shop in the basement of another shop. Saw a recommendation to check out [Sensoji at night](https://i.imgur.com/9aaW07O.jpg), and was not [disappointed](https://i.imgur.com/wRDpZsM.jpg). There was basically no one [around](https://i.imgur.com/KJ6xPUN.jpg) and everything [lit up](https://i.imgur.com/spaDrh0.jpg) was a very cool experience.

Day 5: Finally time to leave Tokyo, we caught an early Shinkansen to Kyoto, but not without grabbing [bentos](https://i.imgur.com/LduOheG.jpg) for the trip. Our hotel was only a short walk to a lot of places we wanted to check out, so quickly dropped our bags and headed to [Nishiki Market](https://i.imgur.com/QdtunI8.jpg). It was super nice to walk through and try the variety of [foods](https://i.imgur.com/GrXvHxp.jpg) and [snacks](https://i.imgur.com/rerBO8x.jpg), though a little expensive. Continuing on our journey we walked the [main strip](https://i.imgur.com/8l07pfa.jpg) towards [Gion](https://i.imgur.com/G3V4u95.jpg), but stopped to enjoy the [river views](https://i.imgur.com/HQuhsdj.jpg) for a while. Walking the empty [back alleys](https://i.imgur.com/ahToUcc.jpg) of Gion was very peaceful, the main strip was pretty hectic with lots of cars flying through. Found a [temple](https://i.imgur.com/qoqURi8.jpg) we never managed to find the name of just off the path of Gion. Had a [nice sunset](https://i.imgur.com/IgH2gHP.jpg) walking back towards our hotel area, and a good laugh at this [little shop](https://i.imgur.com/gpMbRYA.jpg).

Day 6: One of the most disappointing and most wonderful parts of the trip, [Arashiyama](https://i.imgur.com/hW1iphR.jpg)! We got up very early to head here, probably about 6am. I wish we had of rented bikes, but we [roamed](https://i.imgur.com/OICSdiN.jpg) for at least an hour and a half before [finally](https://i.imgur.com/7L9kVJs.jpg) checking out the grove. We got lost at one point but a nice local gave us a tiny map with directions on how to get back. The [grove](https://i.imgur.com/OjJ5WFt.jpg) was by far the most underwhelming part of the trip. It [wasn’t crowded](https://i.imgur.com/HyhHPUH.jpg) at all, got some [nice shots](https://i.imgur.com/UsgzPpi.jpg) with us alone in the grove, but it was [so short](https://i.imgur.com/xkYmNp0.jpg)! Based on the fact it is regarded as one of the must sees in this area, I would not recommend this place to anyone. The walk up can be quite [peaceful and beautiful](https://i.imgur.com/ddl8o4p.jpg), but the famous grove spot itself is severely disappointing. We quickly left the grove to head for the opening time of the [Monkey Park](https://i.imgur.com/HeyUbkd.jpg), which turned out to be one of the [best parts](https://i.imgur.com/Eq6OKkZ.jpg) of Kyoto. I can’t express how lovely this experience was, from the [nice hike up](https://i.imgur.com/UblRFgB.jpg), to the gorgeous [views of the city](https://i.imgur.com/cgEeMXa.jpg), and of course the [monkeys](https://i.imgur.com/wvrIlgp.jpg)! I was sad to start the climb back down, but the rainy season was catching up to us in Kyoto. We took shelter in a restaurant with a [nice view](https://i.imgur.com/zej4adE.jpg) over the main street, had some [lunch](https://i.imgur.com/muQYBsp.jpg) and then left to check out the [Kimono Forest](https://i.imgur.com/HZWT49U.jpg). Again, [very small](https://i.imgur.com/yrwqZlQ.jpg), but a neat idea nonetheless. I wish we had of went to see a few temples, so will most definitely return to this area in the future. We didn’t have anything planned for the evening, so took a quick break on the Shinkansen and headed to [Dotonbori](https://i.imgur.com/xDPLNEr.jpg) in Osaka. This place was [packed](https://i.imgur.com/9SvyFZR.jpg) but such a [fun and lively](https://i.imgur.com/ywtYb4u.jpg) environment. Tried a lot of [good food](https://i.imgur.com/MVJxt4z.jpg), found my [favourite dessert](https://i.imgur.com/HQCW7IS.jpg) forever in Japan, then had some [delicious gyoza](https://i.imgur.com/i4aKEqy.jpg) and beer to end the night.

Day 7: As came to be the norm, up super early to get some of those fluffy and beautiful [pancakes](https://i.imgur.com/9uyKJpT.jpg) at Happy Pancake. Tempted to order more but decided against it, we took a bus to Kiyomizudera. I think we got off at the [wrong stop](https://i.imgur.com/SDxALuM.jpg), and ended up in a very large graveyard where we then entered the temple from the back. It was [under construction](https://i.imgur.com/Rz7XBGe.jpg) at the time, but the views were still nice. After [soaking in the area](https://i.imgur.com/9bvjNTu.jpg) and checking out some shops, we hopped on another bus to the Ginkakuji area. We initially came here to find a [mom and pop shop](https://i.imgur.com/ozInaSs.jpg) that apparently serves great omurice, but it was unfortunately closed when we arrived. Settled on trying an [Italian place](https://i.imgur.com/v0sgcFn.jpg) in the area. Decided to walk along the [Philosopher’s Path](https://i.imgur.com/GNrDQfN.jpg) before being met with the worst thunderstorm we experienced the whole trip. We hid under a [roof overhang](https://i.imgur.com/wd8Ff2A.jpg) for a while before giving up and running for the bus stop. We accidentally got on the bus going the wrong way and still don’t know where we [ended up](https://i.imgur.com/YBP37R0.jpg), but it was a nice walk back to the nearest station.

Day 8: The thing I was most excited for in our whole trip was doing the [Fushimi Inari](https://i.imgur.com/KrLYUnc.jpg), so sure enough I dragged us out of bed at 6am to be there for 7am. I saw this place when I was younger and I thought it was so beautiful and interesting, and it lived up to my [expectations and more](https://i.imgur.com/25yhcJr.jpg). It was [pretty empty](https://i.imgur.com/SgL1JDZ.jpg) the [whole way up](https://i.imgur.com/1Rw8Viy.jpg), except for a few locals who seemed to enjoy walking their pets along the [trail](https://i.imgur.com/iDeVYqE.jpg). A super [peaceful hike](https://i.imgur.com/mwLbkYL.jpg) with some unexpectedly [nice views](https://i.imgur.com/2H530AQ.jpg). I’m a sucker for a good hike with views. Wandered off the [beaten path](https://i.imgur.com/glFbLyq.jpg) a few times, where we didn’t encounter [anyone else](https://i.imgur.com/DSQCJT2.jpg). We made it all the way to the [top](https://i.imgur.com/xGepc0e.jpg) where I purchased an overly expensive but worth it mini torii gate. Back at the bottom got some [chicken](https://i.imgur.com/VzGANWW.jpg) I still drool over thinking about. As per usual for most people, we headed towards [Nara](https://i.imgur.com/LZSLVuD.jpg) next. The walk up to the [park](https://i.imgur.com/dftpEqG.jpg) is nice in itself, and a [peaceful start](https://i.imgur.com/n1DnA5V.jpg) before the [deer](https://i.imgur.com/c4s3QAE.jpg) start harassing you. Its funny how they bow to you, but kind of scary when a group of them are chasing you down trying to eat anything you have. We didn’t actually pay to go in many [temples](https://i.imgur.com/bIqajml.jpg), but they were beautiful from the outside regardless. This was certainly my favourite day in Kyoto.

Day 9: We didn’t actually plan to go to [Himeji](https://i.imgur.com/tziMsfT.jpg), but again ended up being one of our [favourite days](https://i.imgur.com/atUxnkX.jpg) of the whole trip. The castle was under a [bit of construction](https://i.imgur.com/XduE7uw.jpg) but it didn’t take way from the [atmosphere](https://i.imgur.com/yRu7oqq.jpg). Walking down the streets felt similar to walking downtown Toronto, until you get a glimpse of the [castle in the distance](https://i.imgur.com/ySiFO0u.jpg). We spent [a lot of time](https://i.imgur.com/ldE9Xx0.jpg) walking [around here](https://i.imgur.com/KLUr6uW.jpg). The [garden](https://i.imgur.com/ZBno5eO.jpg) attached to the castle was also a [huge surprise](https://i.imgur.com/aVn3Smt.jpg). We got in an hour or so before closing so there weren’t many visitors, and it was such a [beautiful place](https://i.imgur.com/qJKmZKk.jpg). Highly recommend doing both if you go to see the castle. Very traditional and peaceful. Hungry as heck we spotted a CoCo Ichibanya in the distance, and for a chain restaurant this was some [good curry](https://i.imgur.com/vN0KmRL.jpg)! The [katsu](https://i.imgur.com/BIxl9qO.jpg) was so perfectly crispy. We caught the train back to the area of our hotel and decided to keep up with the habit of visiting chain restaurants, made our way to the closest [Ichiran](https://i.imgur.com/1tQeJPw.jpg). We only waited about 20 minutes before being seated, and although a little salty it was still as [good](https://i.imgur.com/pS59dX4.jpg)as people say.

Day 10: Woke up to grab [bentos](https://i.imgur.com/ntBhhfI.jpg) and catch an early train to Hiroshima, where we ditched our luggage and immediately made our way to [Miyajima](https://i.imgur.com/932rn3x.jpg). Spent a while just [roaming around](https://i.imgur.com/EzHlmos.jpg) the island before heading up to the [rope-way](https://i.imgur.com/DOhg4I7.jpg). We were a bit [pressed for time](https://i.imgur.com/nfi89Kt.jpg) to make it to the [top of the mountain](https://i.imgur.com/IC5e1Cb.jpg) and back for the last ride, but decided to push it and do the [hike anyways](https://i.imgur.com/rrHIDsT.jpg). Absolutely exhausted at the top, we took a much needed break to enjoy the [breathtaking views](https://i.imgur.com/MEkwWSX.jpg), and to agree it was worth it. The disappointing thing was that it was [low tide](https://i.imgur.com/AjQGmx6.jpg), and the torii was [under construction](https://i.imgur.com/halC8DT.jpg). We didnt get to see the floating temple/gate, but still a [nice sunset](https://i.imgur.com/X1T6LjU.jpg) regardless. We ended up [wandering around Hiroshima](https://i.imgur.com/nKsVAm6.jpg) streets for the rest of the evening, and have to give an honorable mention to these [spicy nuggets](https://i.imgur.com/hugyWmg.jpg) I wish were in North America.

Day 11: After sleeping in for once, we woke up and caught the sightseeing bus to [Peace Park](https://i.imgur.com/M26BPeL.jpg). We [slowly](https://i.imgur.com/F1jcdib.jpg) made our way through the [whole park](https://i.imgur.com/gZQSsv6.jpg) before deciding to enter the [Peace Memorial Museum](https://i.imgur.com/zVSVpAA.jpg). Didn’t take many pictures this day, as it even felt a little weird to be taking them [inside the park](https://i.imgur.com/ZwYSPda.jpg). Was an eye opening experience, and really glad we did it. Spent the rest of the time [wandering](https://i.imgur.com/wBOtYmh.jpg) the [streets](https://i.imgur.com/1NMLGwi.jpg). I [really enjoyed](https://i.imgur.com/TerjdhY.jpg) Hiroshima as it was still a city, but felt much more peaceful than Tokyo for obvious reasons. It was a nice mix.

Day 12: Took our time catching a Shinkansen all the way back to Tokyo. Took plenty of snacks and [food](https://i.imgur.com/quqRPBo.jpg) for the road, but ended up sleeping most of the way anyways. This day was reserved for any last minute [shopping](https://i.imgur.com/NhTAtZd.jpg) we intended to do, so besides for a few meals in between, we spent most of the time in Don Quijote, Loft, Tokyu Hands and figurine shops in Akihabara. Also had the [cutest crepe](https://i.imgur.com/1OL3cLv.jpg).

Day 13: We didn’t spend a lot of money or time on fancy restaurants and food specifically because of the extravagance of our last night in Japan. We booked a night with dinner and breakfast at Konansou in [Lake Kawaguchiko](https://i.imgur.com/pdm5FeT.jpg). We originally booked a mountain view with [private onsen](https://i.imgur.com/J0EEnDz.jpg) room, but due to construction they [upgraded](https://i.imgur.com/hCvXdHV.jpg) us to the even [better suite](https://i.imgur.com/s9cQi3N.jpg). The room had [western beds](https://i.imgur.com/cbjAXZG.jpg) but we opted for the [Japanese style futons](https://i.imgur.com/GwiwiPY.jpg). I still don’t have the words to describe [this place](https://i.imgur.com/3uOcgyE.jpg), and even when I look at my own pictures its hard to [believe I was there](https://i.imgur.com/tT0NczM.jpg). When we were being [served dinner](https://i.imgur.com/KMylfwz.jpg) the host explained to us Fuji hadn’t come out in over a month, and it just so happened the day we showed up it decided to [peak out](https://i.imgur.com/Mb3uJo7.jpg) for a few hours. The [food](https://i.imgur.com/WbDrLpC.jpg) was [incredible](https://i.imgur.com/zMijHMi.jpg), even though most of the time I was a little unsure what I was eating. [Walking](https://i.imgur.com/LntnMtX.jpg) around the lake and [the town](https://i.imgur.com/EHOJBCh.jpg) was super peaceful compared to the busy cities we had spent the last two weeks in. Everything about this ryokan was [perfect](https://i.imgur.com/nxL2RmF.jpg). The view from our room was amazing, and the [rooftop](https://i.imgur.com/CweJDRp.jpg) foot [bath](https://i.imgur.com/T0NZ93G.jpg) was a neat little [bonus](https://i.imgur.com/gHcnUrC.jpg). I’m so glad we splurged on this once in a lifetime thing. I woke up very early to enjoy the private onsen and to catch another glimpse of the [mountain](https://i.imgur.com/flLHuKc.jpg). It was the perfect end to our trip.

8 comments
  1. A fun read with all the pictures, seems like a nice two weeks on the Golden Route!

  2. Amazing report. Thank you for the effort to put all the pictures in there. I looked at everyone of them. May I ask what camera you used ? It’s super clear.
    And I can feel with you. I went also during june-july and the rainy season was a big pain but neverless very lovely trip.
    I did also the same thing you guys were doing. What was your most favourite food ?
    If you look back now which place and attraction would you visit again or was your most memoriable one?

  3. I think that you should have planned your Kyoto/Hiroshima leg to fit withing 7 days and save money on a shorter JR Pass. Yes, it might have been cheaper to take the 14 days pass than to buy individual tickets, but would have been even cheaper to take a 7 days pass and just use a Suica/Pasmo for everything in Tokyo.

    It also confuse me why you did not start the pass on day 1 if the trip was 14 days long, or is there some missing days at the end ? Did you at least use it to return to Narita ? And the Skyliner does not go to Asakusa, this look more like the Skyaccess rapid train, that become the Asakusa line that goes to Asakusabashi, so you could have stayed in the same train up to Asakusabashi.

    This was a really classic golden route trip, but it seems to have been really nice. And out of curiosity, what is your idea for the next trip ?

  4. Arashiyama: I feel like you really missed a lot of what the area is–something that is very evident from both your pictures and the fact that you seem to think the bamboo grove is small (it isn’t). The majority of what there is to see in Arashiyama is north of the river, and it stretches all the way to the mountains on the north side of the basin–a mix of temples, bamboo paths, agricultural fields, shops, cafes, and old houses.

    Osaka: You could have saved yourself a bunch of time and energy by just taking Hankyu directly to Umeda from Arashiyama. Taking the Shinkansen such a short distance doesn’t save you any time and actually just adds transfers.

    Higashiyama: It’s fine to take public transit, but there is so much to see within immediate walking distance of the both Kiyomizu-dera and Ginaku-ji that you seem to have skipped entirely (I might be wrong, but the pictures and description seem to indicate otherwise). I mean there are literally dozens of things within an absolutely tiny area. Exploring dense areas like these on foot is so much of the Kyoto experience, and I feel like you kind of robbed yourself of that by rushing off to the next area so quickly.

    Nara: This part of the report is just saddening. You didn’t even bother to go in to some of the most amazing historical sites in the entire country. If you were to see no other temple in the entire country, I would tell you to see Todai-ji, but you merely took a picture of the front entrance, turned around, and walked away. Absolutely tragic.

    Himeji: The garden (Koko-en) is also practically free if you buy the combined castle/garden ticket.

    So my main takeaway from skimming this is that you saw some cool stuff, but you skipped so many amazing things that you were literally right next to. This is yet another example of why I think people need to slow down and spend more time in each area. You see more by trying to do less. If you had another week for this trip, I wouldn’t add any other locations at all–I would just use that time to actually see the places you were already visiting.

  5. Great report!

    I think you’ll find Planets will be open on your return 🙂

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