Trip report: 3 weeks from Kyushu to Tokyo (Including photos, tips and more)

This april I finally visited Japan for the third time. I planned this trip for april 2020 originally, which as you can imagine didn’t work out so well. After visiting Tokyo in 2012 and Kansai in 2017, this time I wanted to focus on southern Japan and Kyushu. I was joined by my friend who had already accompanied me for the 2017 trip to Kansai. We ultimately decided on a route where we’d start in Kyushu but slowly make our way north until we finished the trip in Tokyo.

**General stuff and tips**

* We booked our flight in january, which was probably later than ideal. While we could have gotten flights for around ~900€ some months earlier (which was still way above the 400€ we payed in 2017), it ended up being more like 1200€ per person, with layover in Seoul. Also our flight back turned out to be from Kansai airport instead of Tokyo. Oh well, at least we booked before it got even *more* expensive.

* We bought a 21 day railpass and it easily paid off. Was also very convenient to just jump on any shinkansen. Especially in situations such as when I lost my bag and had to backtrack one station.

* I’m a vegetarian so food has always been a bit of a struggle in Japan. I will say though, that compared to 2012 and 2017, it has gotten much easier! Many chain restaurants like CocoIchi, Mos Burger and Royal Host now have vegetarian (and usually vegan) options, which means even in smaller towns it’s usually possible to find something. In big cities there are always a ton of options.

* We got unlimited data sim cards from Japan Experience. On previous trips, we didn’t have any mobile internet, so this was very convenient. Connection was pretty fast and stable as well, so we often didn’t even bother to connect to public or hotel wifi.

* Discovered my love for Don Quichote stores on this trip. Never went on previous trips, but they’re really fun to explore and have all kinds of interesting products and souvenirs.

* Jetlag was surprisingly fine, coming from Germany. Couldn’t sleep at all on the plane, but maybe that actually helped as I was really tired and had no problem sleeping when we arrived at our hotel at 23:00.

* I’d say putting Tokyo at the end of our trip was a bit of a mistake. At that point we were so exhausted from the daily walking and sightseeing that Tokyo’s rapid pace was a bit much for us. Next time I’d definitely put something slow and relaxing at the end if I do another 3-week trip.

* I’ve read a few times that Kyushu is car centric and that it isn’t practical to explore it only using public transport. I found that this isn’t the case. For a few specific attractions it might be the case, but I had no problem finding places to go that are easy to reach by train.

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**Day by day report**

**Day 1: Fukuoka**

We arrived in Fukuoka quite late at around 21:00 after our second flight’s landing had been delayed by about 1.5 hours. Luckily, immigration at Fukuoka was mercifully quick. Using our fast-track QR codes, we got through in about 15 minutes and also got our luggage very quickly. We caught the shuttle bus to the domestic terminal and then the subway to Nakasukawabata where our Hotel was and went to sleep.

**Hotel:** Webase Hakata Hostel. This was a pretty simple but spotlessly clean and very modern place, for which we got a very good price.

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**Day 2: Fukuoka:**

For our first (and only full) day in Fukuoka, it was quite rainy. Bought an umbrella and walked around Hakata for a bit. It was nice seeing some [Sakura still in bloom](https://i.imgur.com/ZPPw0n7.jpg), although we were slightly late for it. We then got our rail passes at the station, which took quite a while as the rail pass line was pretty long.

I wanted to start a Goshuincho for this trip and already planned ahead by looking at what designs were available at shrines near Fukuoka and found that Shikaumi shrine on Shikanoshima had a [pretty rad dragon design](https://i.imgur.com/8GLAIu8.jpg). So we took the train to Uminonakamichi, planning to first explore the huge park and then continue to the island. Upon arriving at the park, we quickly decided against it though, as it was really pouring at this point. Really a shame, as the park looks quite beautiful, but probably wouldn’t have been very enjoyable. So we took the bus over to Shikanoshima and walked to Shikaumi shrine. Quite an interesting island in its own right and a beautiful [shrine](https://i.imgur.com/EgcKY5N.jpg) that seems to be almost unknown to tourists. The Goshuincho + Goshuin cost 2500 yen.

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**Day 3: Fukuoka/Nagasaki**

Explored the Fukuoka castle ruins in the morning. As it was still rainy, we then headed to the Fukuoka art museum, which turned out to be pretty worthwhile! Thankfully the rain was stopping as we headed out. We then walked through [Ohori park](https://i.imgur.com/zQazI6e.jpg). In the early afternoon, we took the train to Nagasaki. The Nishi-Kyushu Shinkansen, while currently a very short ride, probably had the most comfortable seats of any train we took! Walked through some of the shopping passages near Meganebashi as well as Chinatown and headed to our hotel.

**Hotel:** Nagasaki Kagamiya. A small traditional guesthouse in a very [beautiful area](https://i.imgur.com/dSDtyxJ.jpg) in the outskirts of Nagasaki. Takes some walking and stairs to get there, though. Rooms were nice and clean, but walls were quite thin and it turned out my travel partner was quite a light sleeper, so he had quite a hard time sleeping even with earbuds. Super nice owners!

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**Day 4: Nagasaki**

Explored Suwa shrine and the various temples in the area. Went to [Dejima](https://i.imgur.com/jj5YEFJ.jpg), an interesting reconstruction of what used to be the only place in Japan where foreigners were allowed. Took the tram to the Hypocenter and [peace park](https://i.imgur.com/QY1wiYm.jpg). Quite a strange feeling standing where a nuclear bomb was detonated. A really beautiful park, but of course also quite haunting.

In the afternoon, we decided to stray a bit from the typical tourist sites and climb Mt. Hiko, a mountain just south of our hotel. Surprisingly an amazing experience, the [nature](https://i.imgur.com/eJqQngk.jpg) was beautiful and there are quite a few shrines and ancient looking [buddhist statues](https://i.imgur.com/Guei19u.jpg) along the path. Ended up very tired in a village called Tadewara where I had my first opportunity of really putting my Japanese to the test by asking a local old man if there were any busses to Nagasaki. He actually didn’t know either but he asked all around the village trying to help us. Luckily a bus soon arrived. Quite an adventure! On the way back to Nagasaki, we decided to get off at [Sofukuji](https://i.imgur.com/chjRLU4.jpg), a beautiful temple with Chinese-style architecture.

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**Day 5: Day trip Shimabara and Unzen Onsen**

Took an early Shinkansen to Isahaya and the Shimabara railway from there. The railway offered lots of beautiful views of the [sea](https://i.imgur.com/ulwNIAI.jpg) and the countryside. In Shimabara city we first visited the very pretty old [samurai quarter](https://i.imgur.com/S30DX7N.jpg) and then went to the castle. The city has quite a laid back, pleasant atmosphere and we felt like the only tourists there. Very friendly people there as well. We drank tea and ate some traditional sweets at a place owned by a guy who was just [sliiightly obsessed with cats](https://i.imgur.com/3XCTMUs.jpg). \^^ Then we jumped on the bus towards Unzen Onsen.

After a long bus ride up the mountains we got off and immediately got hit by the incredibly strong sulphur smell that permeates the entire place! Unzen has [steam and bubbling water](https://i.imgur.com/V8yF05P.jpg) coming out of the ground everywhere, really unlike any place I’ve been before. After exploring the “Unzen hells” we went to Seiunso Onsen to get a bath. Really beautiful place with both an outdoor and an indoor bath, with milky water coming directly from the hot springs. This was my first Onsen experience and I loved it. Very relaxing for my feet after quite a few days of walking 20km+. Afterwards we took a long bus ride to Isahaya and then the Shinkansen back to Nagasaki.

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**Day 6: Nagasaki/Kagoshima**

Mostly a travel day. Noteworthy events included a large bird of prey snatching an onigiri out of my hand while I was eating, quite a shock but luckily I was unharmed! Also stupidly left my backpack at Shin Tosu station when getting on the Shinkansen. The personell at the next station was very helpful though, and I got my backpack back just losing about an hour of travel time (and our reserved seats of course). Strolled a bit through Kagoshima’s shopping streets.

**Hotel:** Hen na Hotel Kagoshima Tenmonkan. This automated hotel was extremely nice. Pretty much brand new, it had everything we could hope for, from comfortable rooms to even a small Sento.

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**Day 7: Kagoshima/Sakurajima**

Explored the harbor area getting our first views of the impressive [Sakurajima](https://i.imgur.com/fBPKmdu.jpg) before taking the ferry there. After exploring the area near the ferry port for a bit, we went to the visitor center to rent bicycles. With those we took of on a tour around the entire island an volcano. Despite the bike being slightly rattly and way too small for me, the 35km were quite doable. We were rewarded with lots of [views](https://i.imgur.com/uMDTx2Z.jpg) of the fuming volcano and some interesting sights, like a [Toori gate](https://i.imgur.com/UGXv6Xk.jpg) almost completely covered in volcanic ash. This tour was definitely another highlight. I’m surprised more people aren’t doing it by bike, in fact we didn’t see a single other cyclist!

Going back to Kagoshima, we wanted to see Sengan-en garden next. This proved harder than expected though, as the bus we caught only stopped at Inaricho. Technically only a few hundred meters off, there was a steep mountain between us and the garden. Google maps wanted to navigate us through a busy car tunnel, which we were not keen on walking. In front of the tunnel, we actually met a friendly Australian bloke who had the same problem as us. (If you’re reading this, hi!) Together we found a route up the mountain and down a little used path not even marked on google maps. The gardens were quite nice and offered [nice views](https://i.imgur.com/QxeoVyX.jpg) of Sakurajima.

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**Day 8: Kagoshima/Hiroshima**

Another day of mostly train travel. Upon arriving in Hiroshima, the realization hit that we have now truly entered Tourist-Japan. Probably saw more white people in 10 minutes at Hiroshima station than we had seen for our entire time in Kyushu. :p After checking into our hotel, we went for an even walk at Hondori.

**Hotel:** Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima. This is a hotel in a beautiful location on a peninsula, which makes quite a luxurious first impression. The rooms themselves however, at least the cheaper ones, are quite old and tired though with lots of stains on the carpet and old looking furniture. Also extremely inconvenient location, with only an infrequent shuttle bus connecting it to the station and no public transport connections at all after 8PM.

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**Day 9: Hiroshima**

Walked through peace park and the peace memorial museum. The museum, especially, was a powerful experience. Later on went to Hiroshima castle (didn’t enter the keep though) and finally went for a stroll around the island/peninsula where our hotel was located. There was already quite the police presence there for the G7, even though it was still a month away at that point.

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**Day 10: Day Trip Miyajima & Iwakuni**

Woke up early to take the JR ferry over to Miyajima. Even at around 9AM, it was *packed* with tourists and it only got more crowded as the day went on. The shrine is absolutely worth seeing though.

At some point I decided I wanted to escape the crowds, rented an e-bike and headed clockwise toward the eastern coast of the island. This part of the island was extremely quiet, with a [scenic little road](https://i.imgur.com/w4qECe7.jpg) winding its way along the coast. Ended up at a [beautiful deserted beach](https://i.imgur.com/jvTiTlM.jpg) with a little shrine.

As we didn’t really have anything more to do in Hiroshima, we spontaneously decided to go to Iwakuni for the rest of the day. This took unexpectedly long though, as all the attractions of Iwakuni are quite a lengthy bus ride away from the main station. Absolutely beautiful [bridge](https://i.imgur.com/ITKbO6C.jpg) though. Took the Shinkansen back to Hiroshima.

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**Day 11 Hiroshima/Onomichi**

After some more shopping in Hiroshima, we took the trip to Onomichi, where we wanted to start the Shimanami kaido bike route the next day (though at that point it already looked like the weather wouldn’t work out for that). Onomichi is a unique little town, with lots of steep slopes and tiny alleyways.

**Hotel:** Miharashi-tei. Mixed feelings about this one. It’s in a beautiful historic building on top of one of the slopes. The [views](https://i.imgur.com/53cSs2A.jpg) from the room were phenomenal. Couldn’t take our luggage with us, as it can only be accessed by climbing a few hundred steps. Room was tiny and the walls were so thin they might as well not exist. Unfortunately, the worlds loudest snorer slept next door, so yeah. Also encountered a palm-sized spider in the shower room, good thing I’m no arachnophobe. \^^

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**Day 12: Onomichi/Setoda**

Our plans of doing the cycle path “fell in the water” as we say in Germany, as it was pouring rain. We had hope that we could do the second part of the bike path the next day, but for that day, our only good option was taking the ferry. Thankfully Setoda was easily reached from Onomichi. After checking into our hotel, we strolled around the [village](https://i.imgur.com/yVC3Kon.jpg) and the surrounding lemon groves a bit.

**Hotel:** Suminoe Ryokan. The highlight of the day for sure. A traditional Ryokan in a beautiful historic building. The room and the service was great and there was a nice garden as well as a Sento. Staff was great and super friendly (no English spoken though).

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**Day 13: Setoda/Shimanami Kaido/Imabari**

The weather cleared up and so did our mood. We checked out early and went to the tourist information to rent bikes to ride to Imabari. They only had a size M for me and a size S for my friend, but at least we were on bikes! It was 50km from Setoda to the center of Imabari. As it turned out, there was also some kind of “grand tour” on the same day, with thousands of cyclists racing from Onomichi to Imabari. So the bike path was quite crowded, but it was still a really nice experience. Arrived in Imabari early afternoon. Rode around Imabari with our bikes for a bit and visited the [castle](https://i.imgur.com/63cPB4m.jpg).

**Hotel:** JR Clemento Inn. About what you’d expect from a simple, but very new, business hotel. Clean rooms, nothing outstanding but no complaints either.

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**Day 14: Imabari/Kyoto**

Quite a long train ride, so mostly a travelling day. Arrived in Kyoto and walked around Teramachi for a bit.

**Hotel:** Watermark Hotel Kyoto. Pretty good hotel. Next to Gojo station and our room had a view of Kyoto tower. As always, very clean.

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**Day 15: Kyoto**

Went to Fushimi Inari early in the morning. As I had already visited in the place in 2017 and got somewhat tired of the crowds, I took a side path which took me through a quiet [bamboo grove](https://i.imgur.com/wLaUUly.jpg). Afterwards went to Daigoji temple. Slightly on the pricier side, but really [beautiful temple grounds](https://i.imgur.com/O7ypT7J.jpg) and impressive seeing a wooden pagoda older than a millenium.

We had tickets for the Miyako Odori this afternoon. One of the main reasons for me to visit Kyoto again and it was well worth it, really beautiful and impressive performance.

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**Day 16: Kyoto**

Went to Kiyomizudera early, while the crowds were still bearable. Visited Yasaka shrine and Chion in temple, where we were just in time to visit a buddhist service.

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**Day 17: Kyoto/Tokyo**

Took the Shinkansen to Tokyo station and then the Yamanote line to our hotel in Shimbashi. Walked around Shibuya and Harajuku in the afternoon. In the evening, we went on a walk around [Kabukicho](https://i.imgur.com/21upoIy.jpg) to take in the atmosphere.

**Hotel:** The Blossom Hibiya. Beautiful hotel located in the upper floors of a skyscraper. The [views](https://i.imgur.com/CPzrkAD.jpg) were really impressive and the room was very nice. The location was also quite convenient for getting on the Yamanote line.

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**Day 18: Tokyo**

At this point in our travels, I’d say that we were both a bit tired of the daily sightseeing and Tokyo’s fast pace didn’t really suit us at that point. So we started a day taking a stroll through the Meiji shrine gardens. The place really feels like an oasis, in many places you can’t even tell you’re in a huge city.

After eating some 50 yen ice cream at Ikea, we took the train to Mitaka to visit the [Ghibli museum](https://i.imgur.com/nZerWuK.jpg). Probably an unpopular opinion, but I found the place a bit overrated, despite being a huge Ghibli fan. The building was definitely very nice, seeing all the details in the architecture, but many of the actual exhibits fell a bit flat. There is also basically *nothing* in English, despite half the visitors being foreign tourists. It was also quite crowded. Didn’t have a bad time per se, but it definitely wasn’t the must-see experience I had expected it to be. On the way back we also went to Nakano broadway, quite an interesting place, especially if you like older anime and manga. In the evening we walked around Ginza. While I’m definitely not the luxury shopping type, it was interesting seeing all the wild and futuristic architecture and designs of the brand shops.

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**Day 19: Tokyo**

Started the day in Asakusa, visiting the temple and going for some last-day souvenir shopping.

Later went to Odaiba, exploring the island and visiting the marine museum… Or at least the tiny bit that’s currently open, unfortunately the main part of the museum is still closed. The antarctic icebreaker was really cool though.

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**Day 20: Tokyo/KIX**

This was our last full day and we had to get back to Kansai airport, where we’d fly out early the next day. After having breakfast at Shimbashi station (surprisingly good pretzels at “Petit Imbiss”), we went to a few more shops and then set off on our trip back to Kansai. In the evening we walked around “Rinku town”, the area on the other side of the shore of Kansai airport.

**Hotel:** Hen na Hotel Kansai Airport. Automated hotel staffed by robot-dinosaurs. Pretty nice seaview rooms, if a bit more dated compared to Kagoshima. Highlight was the onsen next door, which is free to visit for hotel guests.

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**Conclusion**

Overall, I had a fantastic time on my third Japan trip. I especially fell in love with Kyushu and would like to visit again. Generally, something I learned this trip, is that I really enjoy the lesser known attractions, perhaps even more so than the big touristy places. I think for my next trip in a few years, I’ll go somewhere like Shikoku or Aomori and probably skip the “big” places along the golden route altogether.

Also, if you read this entire wall of text, thank you and hope you enjoyed it and/or learned something for your own trip. Definitely took a bit longer than expected to write this. \^^ Also the first time I posted this, it triggered reddit’s spam detection for some reason and got me shadow banned. So here’s hoping it won’t happen again this time, if you’re reading this it worked!